Alexander Mundy's Magic Twisted Ribbon

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Alexander Mundy

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Yeah man. With the cat out of the bag on Mr. Mundy's wire... I do not see myself ordering any more R41.


Sent from the zoo using Tapatypo 2

Don't throw it out..........
I'm gonna figure out how to make twisted ribbon out of Rene41 without it shattering yet!

:vapor:
 

manji1

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I'm going to mess around with the wire that was sent to me. I think I may try 4 wraps around a 3/32 drill bit and wick it with yarn. I was thinking this may be a good way to get a lot of surface area of wicking material. If the yarn can't keep up I can always switch it out to rolled cotton. I will post pics here in the next few days when I get to it.
 

jjkillian

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Okay, first try broke the wire before it started folding in over itself and it spun up like those friendship bracelets do. Second try got it, but then screwed up the 2nd (reverse) twist.

3rd time....GOT IT! Looks perfect. 3ft yielded enough for 2 coils....ouch.

Okay so here is now the problem I am having. In keeping with my love for nano coils I wrapped it around a 20 gauge needle, which is 2x a thick as my normal wire wrap. So it is 1mm. I cannot get it to compress like a micro coil. Just springs back. It will not stay compressed no matter how much I heat it up first. Also, the heat up time is sickly slow. I ended up at .8 ohms with a 5 wrap.

I did the external wick. Now here is the really odd thing. Normally when I do that, it shoots vapor out like crazy without the cap on. With this, I get basically nothing. At first it scared me. However, when I hit it, wow! Good vapor production and taste. I think what is going on is, I didn't get a true nano coil, so I am not getting the jet effect like I normally do. It produces just as much vapor as my .5 ohm coils and taste better. I wrapped it with cotton yarn and because of its size it was super easy to get 100% coverage with a tight wrap. Wicking great.

What is the trick to compress it?
 
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Alexander Mundy

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My feet are killing me after standing on concrete most of the day!

Dibby, are you having any misfires with the brass feeler gauge firing arm?
I was having bad ones and found that juice was on the arm & in between it and the tubing sleeve.
Cleaned all that up and was working good again but I just started having some again.
I will check for juice again tomorrow.
Don't know it that was due to something I did wrong when I put the 510 connector pin back together or what.

Surely you have tried your homespun magic, so how is it?

:vapor:
 

jjkillian

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So, Mundy, I have a thought. What about dismantling a ceramic wick (one that looks like a fiber not the solid type) and spin it in with the wire? I am thinking maybe this would make an internal wick to the wire. The ceramic wick has a burn temp of 1400C, so it should be good in the wire, even if it ran dry. Just not sure if it could still burn up while dry firing it to compress the coil.....well in your guy's case (see previous post).

Not even sure why to do that, other than to tinker. That is an expensive tinker though.

My thought process is that this wire is basically porous, so a built in wick would be interesting. What would be really sick is if there could be enough of the wick to not have to wick the coil at all.
 

Alexander Mundy

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Okay, first try broke the wire before it started folding in over itself and it spun up like those friendship bracelets do. Second try got it, but then screwed up the 2nd (reverse) twist.

3rd time....GOT IT! Looks perfect. 3ft yielded enough for 2 coils....ouch.

Okay so here is now the problem I am having. In keeping with my love for nano coils I wrapped it around a 20 gauge needle, which is 2x a thick as my normal wire wrap. So it is 1mm. I cannot get it to compress like a micro coil. Just springs back. It will not stay compressed no matter how much I heat it up first. Also, the heat up time is sickly slow. I ended up at .8 ohms with a 5 wrap.

I did the external wick. Now here is the really odd thing. Normally when I do that, it shots vapor out like crazy without the cap on. With this, I get basically nothing. At first it scared me. However, when I hit it, wow! Good vapor production and taste. I think what is going on is, I didn't get a true nano coil, so I am not getting the jet effect like I normally do. It produces just as much vapor as my .5 ohm coils and taste better. I wrapped it with cotton yarn and because of its size it was super easy to get 100% coverage with a tight wrap. Wicking great.

What is the trick to compress it?

I do it installed with the fire till red hot and as soon as I let go of the button squeeze with tweezers and hold for 5 seconds or so method.
Works first or at most second time for me at 1.2mm ID.

It speeds up to almost instantaneous heat up with .8 ohm compressed 1.2mm ID with cotton inside the coil.

Haven't played much with PID so I couldn't tell you what is going on there.
I did completely wrap it with very light cotton before I made a coil as an experiment one time and it was a dud that way.

:vapor:
 

Alexander Mundy

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So, Mundy, I have a thought. What about dismantling a ceramic wick (one that looks like a fiber not the solid type) and spin it in with the wire? I am thinking maybe this would make an internal wick to the wire. The ceramic wick has a burn temp of 1400C, so it should be good in the wire, even if it ran dry. Just not sure if it could still burn up while dry firing it to compress the coil.....well in your guy's case (see previous post).

Not even sure why to do that, other than to tinker. That is an expensive tinker though.

My thought process is that this wire is basically porous, so a built in wick would be interesting. What would be really sick is if there could be enough of the wick to not have to wick the coil at all.

With a bottom feeder you can use a 1.2mm ID coil low without a wick if you squonk every time and don't take pbusardo draws.

:vapor:
 

jjkillian

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I do it installed with the fire till red hot and as soon as I let go of the button squeeze with tweezers and hold for 5 seconds or so method.
Works first or at most second time for me at 1.2mm ID.

It speeds up to almost instantaneous heat up with .8 ohm compressed 1.2mm ID with cotton inside the coil.

Haven't played much with PID so I couldn't tell you what is going on there.
I did completely wrap it with very light cotton before I made a coil as an experiment one time and it was a dud that way.

:vapor:

Yeah the cotton is going to burn up instantly. The ceramic stuff however......XC-116 Ceramic Wick - 12" Heat Cleaned

And I was wrong it is 1200F....which is weird because they pre-treat it to 700C, which is 1292F.

We sell test and measurement equipment and I have IR stuff out the ying yang. Will do some IR video of your wire once I get it compressed right. That is the same method I used, but it will not "stick" together. Dunno, will try again.
 

Alexander Mundy

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Yeah the cotton is going to burn up instantly. The ceramic stuff however......XC-116 Ceramic Wick - 12" Heat Cleaned

And I was wrong it is 1200F....which is weird because they pre-treat it to 700C, which is 1292F.

We sell test and measurement equipment and I have IR stuff out the ying yang. Will do some IR video of your wire once I get it compressed right. That is the same method I used, but it will not "stick" together. Dunno, will try again.

I didn't dry burn and compress the cotton wrapped wire so it didn't burn up.
I could see the juice boiling in the cotton but it made hardly any vapor.

If you could show the temp range for each false color during a normal vape situation and what % PG/VG that would be awesome.
I have wondered what temp range juice vaporizes at in the real world application.

:vapor:
 

jjkillian

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I had some .8x1mm laying around and tried it with it. It looks decent. Not enough light in this image. I didn't really take my time with it and had a break right as it started to fold over on itself. I hooked everything back up and it picked up elsewhere then meet where the fold was happening before the break.

This wire is probably a little too big, hehe.

20131012_193735.jpg
 

Alexander Mundy

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I had some .8x1mm laying around and tried it with it. It looks decent. Not enough light in this image. I didn't really take my time with it and had a break right as it started to fold over on itself. I hooked everything back up and it picked up elsewhere then meet where the fold was happening before the break.

This wire is probably a little too big, hehe.

View attachment 261108

Give it a shot.
What I found was that heavier or lighter wire didn't have optimal resistance to area.
But that could just be for a specific setup I was using.
I want you all to experiment and push the envelope to things I haven't tried.

:vapor:
 

pdib

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My feet are killing me after standing on concrete most of the day!

Dibby, are you having any misfires with the brass feeler gauge firing arm?
I was having bad ones and found that juice was on the arm & in between it and the tubing sleeve.
Cleaned all that up and was working good again but I just started having some again.
I will check for juice again tomorrow.
Don't know it that was due to something I did wrong when I put the 510 connector pin back together or what.

Surely you have tried your homespun magic, so how is it?

:vapor:

Homespun is vaping great! Just like the pro's ;). I was doing the ss firing pins sheathed w/ brass for a while now (a month?) and have never had problems. The solid brass is holding up great, although it's only been a day or two. When I re-assemble, I do it just like in Rob's video. I have found that it is possible to overtighten the nipple piece that captures the firing pin, and not know it. The neck of the 510 post gets sheared; but the thing all holds together. That would explain juice leaking out. Come to think of it; when I took apart the one where I learned the breaky lesson, it was a bit wet in there. I went to unscrew it to put in the solid brass pin, and it just popped off.

I would love to get my hands on a better quality/conductivity 510+ post, that still worked with that arrangement.
 

Alexander Mundy

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Homespun is vaping great! Just like the pro's ;). I was doing the ss firing pins sheathed w/ brass for a while now (a month?) and have never had problems. The solid brass is holding up great, although it's only been a day or two. When I re-assemble, I do it just like in Rob's video. I have found that it is possible to overtighten the nipple piece that captures the firing pin, and not know it. The neck of the 510 post gets sheared; but the thing all holds together. That would explain juice leaking out. Come to think of it; when I took apart the one where I learned the breaky lesson, it was a bit wet in there. I went to unscrew it to put in the solid brass pin, and it just popped off.

I would love to get my hands on a better quality/conductivity 510+ post, that still worked with that arrangement.

Geez, that might be what I did being as how I like to tighten things down good.
Will have to order another before I try to see or else I will be using a backup.

Great to hear homespun magic is working good!

:vapor:
 

SeaNap

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Turbocad fabricated an amazing center pin out of a 1" stainless steel screw, I think the pics are in "spring... what spring?". That pin would be perfect for our custome firing pins. With the screw design you can double-nut it and firmly and securely connect to the firing pin.

BTW, great looking Magic wire turbo and pdib! You know its good when you cant tell the difference between homespun and the masters!
 
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jjkillian

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Sep 29, 2013
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Mesa AZ
Give it a shot.
What I found was that heavier or lighter wire didn't have optimal resistance to area.
But that could just be for a specific setup I was using.
I want you all to experiment and push the envelope to things I haven't tried.

:vapor:

Okay, installed it. Same problem with getting it to compress, so I broke out the map gas and heated it way up. Finally got it to compress, but it kept coming a little loose while installing it and wicking it.

Came in a .35 ohms. That is just under the range of my batteries for amps. I have some 20A coming in. Been firing it, yeah dumb, flavor is off the chart but vapor production is way down. I kept having the same heat up problem. It takes 3-4 seconds for it to fire up.

I am also in the middle of building a DNA20. I am anxious to get that thing done and build one of these coils for it.
 

Alexander Mundy

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Springfield, MO
Okay, installed it. Same problem with getting it to compress, so I broke out the map gas and heated it way up. Finally got it to compress, but it kept coming a little loose while installing it and wicking it.

Came in a .35 ohms. That is just under the range of my batteries for amps. I have some 20A coming in. Been firing it, yeah dumb, flavor is off the chart but vapor production is way down. I kept having the same heat up problem. It takes 3-4 seconds for it to fire up.

I am also in the middle of building a DNA20. I am anxious to get that thing done and build one of these coils for it.

.35 ohm should instantly fire and 3 to 4 seconds should fill the room up.
Are you still trying nano?
I have never tried smaller than 1.2mm ID.
Maybe it just doesn't work for nano?
Won't have time to try a nano till next week sometime.

:vapor:
 

pdib

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Okay, installed it. Same problem with getting it to compress, so I broke out the map gas and heated it way up. Finally got it to compress, but it kept coming a little loose while installing it and wicking it.

Came in a .35 ohms. That is just under the range of my batteries for amps. I have some 20A coming in. Been firing it, yeah dumb, flavor is off the chart but vapor production is way down. I kept having the same heat up problem. It takes 3-4 seconds for it to fire up.

I am also in the middle of building a DNA20. I am anxious to get that thing done and build one of these coils for it.

running a low res. coil on batteries that can't handle it isn't just a safety issue; if you're batteries can't give up the amperage you're asking for, you'll see performance issues like slow heatup time, no?
 
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