- Status
My (limited) understanding of this is because of the possible poisoning issue caused by lead, correct?
Lead-free solder is so easily available, just as easy to use, even the remotest chance of
lead poisoning even being considered issue isn't worth the risk.
Completely agree!
Very nice Atom, congrats on your first Puck! May it be the first of many.
Took me a couple tries, making small changes in switch position, glues used, boxes used, etc... to make my Puck really mine. That's part of the lure of the Puck, for <$10 you can try different things to make a one of a kind PV that fits what you want in a PV.
Thanks Stosh! And I know exactly what you mean. After using it last night, I have a bunch of ideas for moving stuff around lol.
And a quick update on the Puck itself.
Rocked it all last night at the Colorado Vapers Meet and was blowing plumes of vapor all night long. I had various atty's and cartos on there of all different ohm ratings and the Puck handled it all. Had several of our members show lots of interest in the Puck especially after seeing it in person finally. So hopefully we will have some new Pucks floating around the next meet.
Now the bad news... I have a crap button in it and after a few hours it wouldn't fire every time. Now this morning the button isn't firing at all. So off to Radio Shack in a minute to get a new one.
Good job! Looks pretty good really. I've seen a whole lot that are really bad and they still worked. From my old electronics professor from years ago, there's one rule he told me to do with soldering. When your going to make a connection, make a good mechanical connection first before even soldering. Once you have a good mechanical connection, lay the solder to it until it coats the connection then let it cool but don't blow on it,... then... pull on your wire. If it doesn't pull off, you have a good connection
Congrats on your newly born Puck.
@ThePuck - Thank you very much! I started soldering a long time ago, but have been out of practice for a few years. I love your soldering advice, it's what I was taught and still follow. Unfortunately, I am using and old Radio Shack cheapie iron right now. My Weller was lent out to a friend who I decided to let keep it.
Hey man, I got a el cheapo one at Hobby Lobby - $17,- for it, but the freaking tip was too big. plus the solder rolled off it. So I drilled a hole in it, and put a small nail in the hole, so I now have a very nice one with a small tip. In my opinion, having a small tip, and if the solder sticks to the tip, you're good. At least, that worked for me. Hope this helps.
Who hoooo! The Puck kicks it. I just finished a test of my 2 Pucks vs. a 510 e-cig and a 4081 c-cig with adapter. No freaking comparison at all if it's more vapour you want, then "The Puck" delivers.
The Puck. (It rocks!)
The Puck. (It rocks!)
Last edited:
Would like to thank "The Puck" for your great mod and sharing with such a fantastic walkthrough.
I live rather remote from shops where I may be able to get the parts, as your idea demonstrates. So ordered my parts from Mad Vapes.
Also deviating, I decided to go with 510 as have not been vaping very long and wanted to stay with the gear I have.
Went with 2 x 3 AAA boxes too, as didn't want a led (thinking of stealth).
Managed to assemble without glue, (except gluing the boxes together) as I found some drill bits with close tolerances, and used the nut on the switch.
Needless to say it works great, and have not used my Ego since.
Thinking of a double "A" VV mod next.
Again many thanks, your sharing is what makes the vaping community so good.
I live rather remote from shops where I may be able to get the parts, as your idea demonstrates. So ordered my parts from Mad Vapes.
Also deviating, I decided to go with 510 as have not been vaping very long and wanted to stay with the gear I have.
Went with 2 x 3 AAA boxes too, as didn't want a led (thinking of stealth).
Managed to assemble without glue, (except gluing the boxes together) as I found some drill bits with close tolerances, and used the nut on the switch.
Needless to say it works great, and have not used my Ego since.
Thinking of a double "A" VV mod next.
Again many thanks, your sharing is what makes the vaping community so good.
Thanks TC.
Would like to know the optimal time/voltage to recharge the 4 x 900 mAh NiMH's?
Would like to know the optimal time/voltage to recharge the 4 x 900 mAh NiMH's?
Looks like my third Puck
job well done!! 15 minutes!
The cheaper (non 15-min fast chargers) like I have
take a couple, few hours to charge. But I'm old enough to be patient....
Alběta Madragana;3771741 said:
THANKS braa for the advise, thank you everyone,
and THANK YOU puck for advising all of us on how to make a great but inexpensive PV
I have an 8 bay 'slow' charger and like 20 AAA batts lol. I just keep the charger full and 'pick' a set of batts when they're ripe.
ETA:
1 set of Duracell that I had before building my first Puck
2 sets of CVS pharmacy brand (buy 1 get 1 free sale)
2 sets of Tenergy (cheap off of Amazon)
lol. I just keep the charger full and 'pick' a set of batts when they're ripe. ETA:
1 set of Duracell that I had before building my first Puck
2 sets of CVS pharmacy brand (buy 1 get 1 free sale)
2 sets of Tenergy (cheap off of Amazon)
Thanks folks, but I should have been more specific in my question, should read:
How do you know when it's time to recharge? Voltage? Lack of vapor?
How do you know when it's time to recharge? Voltage? Lack of vapor?
LOL, no problem, when the flavor - vapor drops off, recharge.
Or if you carry a DMM around to check voltage....... (I don't carry one either)
"Happy Vaping".. *takes another toke as I type this* I see so many other vapers on these boards who have spent sooooo much money on 'the newest and best' mod. With all these fancy-... names. One cat here has like 10 different mods for his Sig Line. Say, maybe $90,- for each one spent, and that would be $1,000 for them. Too bad somebody didn't introduce him to "The Puck"... He would be $988,- richer... sad, but true.
Just sayin'
O yea, and my latest avatar pic is me vaping a 'fluxomizer' (another fancy-... name for CE-2 ClearoMizer) with my 4,8 Volt AAA "OG Puck". Took it this morning whilst vaping happily away in my easy chair. (I really enjoy vaping indoors) No more sucky weather smoking outdoors for me! Watched the thermometer hit 117 (in the shade) at our place earlier this week... sitting here in my easy chair happy vaping... I guess it just continues to suck being a smoker going outdoors to blacken their lungs..
Just sayin'
O yea, and my latest avatar pic is me vaping a 'fluxomizer' (another fancy-... name for CE-2 ClearoMizer) with my 4,8 Volt AAA "OG Puck". Took it this morning whilst vaping happily away in my easy chair. (I really enjoy vaping indoors) No more sucky weather smoking outdoors for me! Watched the thermometer hit 117 (in the shade) at our place earlier this week... sitting here in my easy chair happy vaping... I guess it just continues to suck being a smoker going outdoors to blacken their lungs..
Last edited:
..just sittin' here in the hotel room chair by the window vaping happily away.. this property is a 'no smoking' property. That's kool - since I don't smoke anyway. I took my 2 OG Pucks and have changed the batts on them only once - this is Day 3 here. Headed back home early this afternoon. It's FUN to vape where others can't smoke! LOL
Just finished my 3rd Puck.
"Baby OG" - 3,6 Volts and smokes 1,5 OHM to 2 OHM cartos like a cheap cigar! 3 AA Batts.
"Lil OG" - 4,8 Volts & has 2,5 OHM to 3 OHM cartos for lunch. Kicks out the vapour for real. 4 AAA Batts.
"Big Daddy OG" - 4,8 Volts - There's no stopping Big D. Serious vapour and lasts for up to 3 days. 4 AA Batts.
A huge "Thank You!" to 'ThePuck' for giving us his original creation to build!!
Last edited:
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
