Anyone try the A7 RBA ?? Will it fit?

[muriarte]

I have 2 ERAs and 6 A7... And the A7 is what I use... The ERAs are kept in my ecig Stuff box. If I had known then, what I know now, I wouldn´t have bought the ERAs, since I spent less on the 6 A7s than on just 1 ERA... anyway, they are both good atties.

 

[oldbroad]

Muriarte....I also like the A7's and I don't mind the height at all...but I do like the deep well, the fact that it screws on , i don't have to bother lining them up with the airhole and the posts are far apart and the screw heads are big.

I have an ERA, a Reomizer, a Hornet and three A7's,( which is my favorite)


Not to mention the price,lol.

 

[muriarte]

Muriarte....I also like the A7's and I don't mind the height at all...but I do like the deep well, the fact that it screws on , i don't have to bother lining them up with the airhole and the posts are far apart and the screw heads are big.

I have an ERA, a Reomizer, a Hornet and three A7's,( which is my favorite)


Not to mention the price,lol.

Yes, I paid 8 bucks each (on co-op)... At that price, you can´t go wrong!

 

[oldbroad]

Yes, I paid 8 bucks each (on co-op)... At that price, you can´t go wrong!

I paid " full price" and they're still inexpensive!

 

[Quigsworth]

...but I do like the deep well...

Excellent point...forgot about the well, big plus over the ERA...worth the extra height if you ask me...

 

[Skeeter T]

Boiling doesn't hurt the coil/wick. Afterall I've been boiling attys for over 2 years. One issue I had is that one screw/hole, on one A7, severes the 32 Kanthal wire when I tighten it down enough for good contact. Severed three in a row. I'm figuring that 28 and 30 Kanthal will hold up better. (I haven't had time to check it out.)

Hugs, Feisty Alice

I don't have that problem yet, but check the bottom of the screws, there might be a small burr(s) from machining that is cutting the wire when screwing them in. If there is, a fine file should remove them. Also, since the posts are drilled for the wire, the post I.D. most likely has burrs too, which could be cutting the wire. About the only way to remove them would be to (by hand) use the same size drill as the I.D. of the post, but that could push the burr(s) back into the wire hole. Maybe a small round rat tail file can take them off.

 

[Skeeter T]

There is a fix, had to do it on one of mine because one mod I use the A7, the A7 is recessed and it was just bugging me that I can't really see what's going on...

Dismantle the A7 (completely)...you'll see the threaded tube part that the center pin screws into...I used my bench vice but you could use a pair of pliers if you have a good grip...squeeze the threaded tube just enough to put it slightly out of round...not so much that you can't get the center pin back in, just slightly...pita I know but you can't use dental floss, teflon tape or anything else or you'll lose conductivity and it'll stop working...even so, it's a 2 min job at most...

That's a great idea to deform the threaded tube and it got me thinking ... not a good sign.

I would guess deforming a thread a very small amount on the center screw should do the same thing. Maybe squeezing a needle nose on a full thread furthest from the screw head would work. The screw should be replaceable without buying another unit to get another threaded tube part if the original one was deformed too much.

 

[Quigsworth]

That's a great idea to deform the threaded tube and it got me thinking ... not a good sign.

I would guess deforming a thread a very small amount on the center screw should do the same thing. Maybe squeezing a needle nose on a full thread furthest from the screw head would work. The screw should be replaceable without buying another unit to get another threaded tube part if the original one was deformed too much.

Yup, that would work...I know intentionally mangling threads goes against everything we know but...

 

[FeistyAlice]

I don't have that problem yet, but check the bottom of the screws, there might be a small burr(s) from machining that is cutting the wire when screwing them in. If there is, a fine file should remove them. Also, since the posts are drilled for the wire, the post I.D. most likely has burrs too, which could be cutting the wire. About the only way to remove them would be to (by hand) use the same size drill as the I.D. of the post, but that could push the burr(s) back into the wire hole. Maybe a small round rat tail file can take them off.

Thanks. I have a bunch of tiny files. I can probably pick up some filing ribbon and "thread" from my dentist, too. I'm over due a 3 mo. cleaning. (Braces make one much more aware of plaque build up.) I do, also, have a box of tiny drills, bits, etc., dental size to use by hand or dremmel.

Hugs, Feisty Alice

{edit} You can get (just about) anything you want at Alice's..... but I still don't have that table saw.... neighbor does though.

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 2

 

[FeistyAlice]

Excellent point...forgot about the well, big plus over the ERA...worth the extra height if you ask me...

I'm okay with the height on bigger REOs but I don't like it on Mini. (I haven't screwed it down on Mini but only set it on it. A7 does fit 7 of my Mini Woodvils 1.0 but all that SS in the brass cup and on WOOD is not pleasing to my eye.) (The REOmizer is only a hair wider than than the A7 but much, much shorter. It fits 5 of my Mini Woodvils 1.0.) (Picking up first Hornet tomorrow, fits Mini REOs, so overly tall will be a moot point for them. REOmizer, ERA, and Hornet really close in height.)

Feisty Alice

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 2

 

[TennDave]

Got my candle wick yesterday....it is much thinner than I thought it would be...I put 6 strands around a round toothpick and build my coils then fastened one end to a post, pulled out the toothpick and fastened the other end...pushed all the stands into the atty to absorb the juice...working pretty well but I am a noob at squonking with this- I have no air hold on the side and am not using a rubber washer in the Reo Juice well. Seems to be working pretty well. I'm thinking as long as I don't over-squonk I will not have leakage... Not sure when the wick gets too dry yet.

 

[TennDave]

Got my first dry hit w/ the cotton wick...ughhh!! Guess there is no getting that taste out- will have to rebuild... It certainly is a learning curve.

Btw, I noticed the A-7 gurgles w/ the cotton wick when it's just about right...but I don't really like that loud gurgle.. Is that gurgle from the Reo catch cup or the one build in the A-7? Anyway around this??

 

[Quigsworth]

If you ever suffer from insomnia you can read through the some odd 3800 posts here:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/284030-wick-materials-safe-vs-dangerous.html

A lot of folks (not all, but most, myself included) found that cotton wick isn't really all that good a wick for our purposes...the braid/weave seem a bit too tight to sustain enough absorption or flow for vaping...some have taken their wick and raked the braid/weave to loosen it and it works better...it seems the organic wick of choice (and I agree) is either boiled Aunt Lydia's #10 bamboo crochet thread or rolled cotton baton...

The gurgle is from excess juice in the air/feed tube after a squonk...I'm not sure there is a way to negate that (except drilling a side air hole and sealing off air intake with an o ring)

 

[TennDave]

Thanks Quigsworth- that explains it. I know it is stainless...hard to drill through.
I'd like to hear what others have done with the candle wick to get it to vape well for them (without the gurgle).

 

[colt45]

is the natural bamboo really necesary to boil before using ?

 

[colt45]

i'm using the square braid candle wick in a reomizer with no gurgle. good vape

 

[Quigsworth]

Stainless is very hard to drill no doubt and the A7's being so thin makes them an extra special treat to drill without deforming the top cap (I have a wooden dowel I stick in it before I clamp and drill)

Colt, I wasn't trying to say that cotton candle wick "doesn't" work, I mean every ones vaping style is different it's just that most folks that have tried it found that it just doesn't seem to recover fast enough, if it works for you great!

I boil the Lydia's out of habit...it's not like packaged sterilized medical cotton...who knows how many hands between the factory and it landing on the shelf in Micheal's Crafts have touched it...not to be gross, but think about it

 

[TennDave]

Well, couldn't get the cotton to work very well for me. It was between flooded (lots of gurgling) and burning... I have rebuilt this time wiht silica wick and it vapes very good and I don't alternate between the two extremes anymore. I may try the cotton again in the future (I have plenty of it!) but for now, I'll use the silica and keep it wet (without the gurgle)...

 

[BGabe]

Dave
I had the same problem you're referring to, only when using silica wick!! It was either way to wet (gurgly) or dry hit after dry hit... The most consistent vape I've had was using rolled cotton gauze from the pharmacy. It has been stellar! I'm finally starting to get over the learning curve, but you are absolutely right, get one dry hit and that taste lingers. Colt gave me a strand of the square braided candle wick, but I've yet to try it. Maybe I'll do that this week.

 

[Skeeter T]

Thanks Quigsworth- that explains it. I know it is stainless...hard to drill through.
I'd like to hear what others have done with the candle wick to get it to vape well for them (without the gurgle).

I read somewhere on the internet (can't remember where) that the A7's material is 303 SS. Any machine shop will agree that 303 is like cutting butter (soft). It isn't as easy as aluminum, but it is the easiest of the 300 series and comparable to cutting low carbon steel like 1018. Putting a little cutting fluid on the drill bit like WD-40 or 3-in-1 oil and keeping the RPM's high will make it much easier to drill. As long as the set-up is rigid (drill & vice) and drilling as close as you can get to the center-line of the A7's cap, then you won't have any problem like breaking drills.

I would also imagine, that all SS RBA's are made with 303 because it is a relatively inexpensive SS and easy to machine.