Apollo Reliant 60W - TC with TCR adjustment, including Stainless Steel support

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AlaskaVaper

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Ahhh. I.believe 15 is a bit high for SS, this could be why you are experiencing this. Try 11 and raise your temp a tad

Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping
I have tried everything from 10 to 30. I am ar 15 now and have vaped a full tank on the Crown SS coils TP was doing well at 460F but when the tank began running low on juice I had a very slight burnt taste so I began lowering the temp and when I reached 300F I could get the last dregs from the tank with no burnt taste and Temp protect coming in and out without obvious pulsing. I do realize that 10 to 12 TCR should be correct for this SS coil, however earlier when the tank was full I only achieved a very anemic vaporat the 10-12 level. I have been keeping the watts at 40 through out this tankfull. The one thing that has made a difference with the fluctuating resistance was that I banged the mods base onto the table quite hard several times and that seems to have allowed the res to remaining steady with only a couple of brief excursions out of resistance during the draw down of the full tank. When those excursions occurred I also firmly wrenched by hand the Crown tank sideways exerting pressure and that returned me to functioning ok again. During that exercise I had the message "old or new coil" appear several times which again seems to confirm that the problem is poor electrical contact somewhere and poor quality control with the mfg process somewhere along the line. It is too bad for Apollo as I had very high expectations for this device but, I am afraid a less knowledgeable buyer than those of us on these ECF TC blogs will find themselves totally flummoxed.
 
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Croak

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Right behind you...
And by the way the Crown tank has been solid on other devices but without a TC function for SS. I frankly do not attribute this issue to the Tank.

I'm willing to attribute many problems to the tank, or rather, the pre-built heads. Connections are just too variable in those things to be reliable. Too many dissimilar materials inside, with varying rates of heat expansion, for one thing. If the outer barrel heats and expands more than the insulator (as it should, the insulator is by design supposed to tolerate a lot of heat), you get a looser mechanical contact on the negative leg. Poof, there goes your reliable resistance reading. Then there's the base to head contact, and the base to 510 contact potentially amplifying the problem.

Not a big deal with regular wattage mode, you really won't notice the difference between a few hundredths or even tenths of an ohm at all. But it's a very big deal TC mode, and especially with stainless because of the very very low TCR. Not much margin for error there. Same to a lesser degree with pre-built Ti or NI200 coils.

And that's not taking into consideration the long legs on those things wreaking potential havoc on the readings; as heat sinks skewing the average resistance downwards at first, then upwards later in the pull (or after the pull) as they potentially retain more heat than the central coil because there's no juice flowing over them. That hot legs issue was why "conventional" Kanthal pre-builts were usually made with welded Ni200 legs, the old NR-R-NR scheme.

Until somebody comes up with a purpose-built-for-TC disposable coil head design that has shorter legs and better connections, TC is always going to be hit or miss in clearos.
 
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AlaskaVaper

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I guess I spoke too soon. I just finished refilling the tank and now the mod does not fire, I just get the message "check atomizer"" WTF- I have unscred it and rescsewed it several times now and the same message. I even tried to tighten the atomizer harder on to the base with small water pump plyers, Nothing. Have tried the table bang and wrenching back and forth by hand, Nothing. It is like the damn thing has evil gremlins working hard inside the device-lol.
 
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USMCotaku

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I guess I spoke too soon. I just finished refilling the tank and now the mod does not fiew, I just get the message "check atomizer"" ...- I have unscred it and rescsewed it several times now and the same message. I even tried to tighten the atomizer harder on to the base with small water pump plyers, Nothing. Have tried the table bang and wrenching back and forth by hand, Nothing. It is like the damn thing has evil gremlins working hard inside the device-lol.
Before drastic measures, check the coil.......

Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping
 

AlaskaVaper

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I don't believe it- I got TCR to appear on the first attempt and raised to 69. Vaped my way from 300 to 440F and it is working beautifully at this setting. I just hope this holds and that the problem was attributable to the Crown coils or etc, except it worked very nicely for s full tank, Will see how the nickel fares. Thanks Croak and USMC for your insights and suggestions.
 
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AlaskaVaper

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Yet didn't you just mention both using a tool to crank on the atty AND banging the mod? [emoji14]

Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping
I did indeed. As a former commercial fisherman I've sort of adhered to the adage that if it can't be fixed with a hammer then throw it overboard. No offense guys.
 
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AlaskaVaper

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I have just now finished vaping the TCT tank with nickel coil head and TCR set @ 69 dry, and the Apollo has performed flawlessly with no pulsing as TP came in and out. Apparently my earlier problems were as a result of the Crown with the SS coil installed. Tomorrow I will try some Titanium to see how that works out.
 

f1vefour

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... Wow, this read as a mod abuse story if ever one did...

For what is worth, I personally manage to press the + and - buttons with my fingers, no problem at all, no fingernails needed.

Same, perhaps theirs are more inset. Mine are perfectly flat with the body.

My entire mod is perfect really, the fit and finish is as good as any mod out there...at any price.
 
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gorman

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Is there anybody that could explain to me the relationship between wattage setting and TC setting?

Meaning: if I set TC at 215C°, I'd expect the same vape no matter what the wattage is setup to. This clearly is not the case. As I raise wattage, keeping 215C° for TC, the vapor increases in temperature straight away. Is the wattage the value that the mod starts firing at when we press the button?

Should I aim for a wattage that never triggers TC, while getting as close as possible to the TC target?
 

Croak

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Your wattage setting determines how long it takes to ramp up, then the TC power control logic kicks in once you reach your set temperature. On some mods (especially those without a pre-heat function) it's possible to have wattage set TOO low, making it nearly impossible to reach your set temp.

But other than that too-low scenario, it's all just personal preference really. Some folks just crank wattage to max and let the mod do all the work. Some tweak watt/temps to save battery life. Some just like slower ramp ups.

Me, I like a lot of power (but not always maximum) so I get a quick ramp up. Since I usually take long drags, with a fast ramp the vape is more consistent throughout the entire puff, rather than slowly climbing. If I wanted wildly variable temps start to finish in a single puff, I'd stick with Kanthal. :)

Also, "Temp Protected" or whatever the message is for a particular mod is NOT an error message, it's just the mod letting you know its reached your set temp and is throttling power to keep it there.
 
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