Apollo Reliant 60W - TC with TCR adjustment, including Stainless Steel support

[GeorgeS]

I tried another build in the Atlantis - same/similar issues. I may try a build in an Anyvape rba but rebuilding the Atlantis atomizers with SS430 ain't working for me today/yesterday. (sigh)

So currently I have SS430 builds on a Kanger Subtank and I added a Subtank-mini (v1) today. Both are working well. I started vaping on the Reliant at ~7:30am this morning ~5hrs and ~3/4 LG HG2 battery left. (hard to tell the segments on these OLED displays)

So far the Reliant is working well.

 

[jazzvaper]

While we are talking about SS 430, I had a surprise earlier today--Shock would be more accurate:

Sitting in front of me, unused, was my SquapeRs loaded with Valhalla from Stash. It had been used on the VS 200 with very good result.

Put it on the VS 40 thinking, 'That's not gonna be good or will need a lot of adjustment'. Not so. Took the temp down to 350F (0.55 ohms) and wattage to 22W. Good vape. FYI: The VS 40 has no adjustment for wire type.

Now my criticism about choice of wire seems prescient...

 

[AtmizrOpin]

So is this an SXK board with some firmware tweaks?

 

[GeorgeS]

4th build with SS430 and powered by the Reliant - this has been my favorite so far:

(ok, so my Lemo clone does not have the red stripes of my ST and STM - so shoot me)

At this rate the Reliant might last me almost all day on one HG2!

The Reliant next to 3 of the other TC mods in my stable:

Larger than a TC40 but smaller than a SXminiM.

 

[jazzvaper]

So is this an SXK board with some firmware tweaks?

No. Authentic DNA...

 

[AtmizrOpin]

No. Authentic DNA...

Right, hilarious....... I wanna know. Is it an SXK or made by Apollo or what?

 

[cigatron]

Right, hilarious....... I wanna know. Is it an SXK or made by Apollo or what?

Near as we can tell by email responses and advertising from Apollo it's an SXK manufactured board with Apollo's engineering/design input.

 

[AtmizrOpin]

Near as we can tell by email responses and advertising from Apollo it's an SXK manufactured board with Apollo's engineering/design input.

I want one but if does TC like my Nebula does, I'll pass. The vape starts cutting in and out (gets choppy) when you reach you're set temp, regardless of wire, TCR setting, temp or wattage. Also if someone knows where it's less than hundo Bill.

 

[cigatron]

I want one but if does TC like my Nebula does, I'll pass. The vape starts cutting in and out (gets choppy) when you reach you're set temp, regardless of wire, TCR setting, temp or wattage. Also if someone knows where it's less than hundo Bill.

So far only a couple of folks comment with any detail here about the smoothness of tc when reaching set temp. Strangely, it seems most peeps using tc mods are not setting wattage high enough reach set temp. It's as if they are leary of allowing the mod to take control of wattage regulation and choose instead to regulate wattage themselves by underpowering. Could be they've experienced pulsey (choppy) operation with their other mods as you have; or perhaps with the reliant itself, I don't know.

I'm spoiled with the glass smooth tc operation of my evics and so I am still a bit reserved about buying a reliant. Maybe as it becomes more popular more peeps with reliants will be posting here.

 

[TlfT]

I want one but if does TC like my Nebula does, I'll pass. The vape starts cutting in and out (gets choppy) when you reach you're set temp, regardless of wire, TCR setting, temp or wattage. Also if someone knows where it's less than hundo Bill.

Coupon code SUMO will knock 20% off on Apollo's website.

 

[GeorgeS]

I've tried: Ni, Ni and SS and the Reliant regulates the temperature very smoothly.

Ni builds are ~0.3ohms - lots of wraps of 32AWG Ni200 or 8-10 wraps 28AWG Ni200.
Ti builds are ~0.3-0.9ohms, 26-32AWG (depending on tank)
SS builds are 1.4-2ohms SS430

There seems to be three different schools of thought when it comes to TC:

1. Use the highest power available and let the mod regulate the temp
   
2. Use enough power to get to the set point <1sec and let the mod regulate the temp
3. Use very little power and use the set point for "wick burn control"

Some TC mods have issues with #1 and create a noticeable on/off or pulsating vape. Others may emit noise or wildly fluxuate the coil temperature while attempting to regulate it.

#2 is my personal preferred way of using TC. When I mount a new tank I'll count to myself and hold the fire button and watch the display. If it takes longer than ~1 second to reach the set point I'll apply more power and if I know the coil I'm using is rather small, I'll start out at a fairly low power setting and go from there.

Lastly are the folks who are mostly using their TC rig's in "low wattage mode" and never apply enough power to reach the set point. While this is a "work around" for mods that won't "buck" (step down) in VW mode, there is no need to use this with the Reliant as it "bucks" fine in VW mode.

 

[AtmizrOpin]

I've tried: Ni, Ni and SS and the Reliant regulates the temperature very smoothly.

Ni builds are ~0.3ohms - lots of wraps of 32AWG Ni200 or 8-10 wraps 28AWG Ni200.
Ti builds are ~0.3-0.9ohms, 26-32AWG (depending on tank)
SS builds are 1.4-2ohms SS430

There seems to be three different schools of thought when it comes to TC:

1. Use the highest power available and let the mod regulate the temp
   
2. Use enough power to get to the set point <1sec and let the mod regulate the temp
3. Use very little power and use the set point for "wick burn control"

Some TC mods have issues with #1 and create a noticeable on/off or pulsating vape. Others may emit noise or wildly fluxuate the coil temperature while attempting to regulate it.

#2 is my personal preferred way of using TC. When I mount a new tank I'll count to myself and hold the fire button and watch the display. If it takes longer than ~1 second to reach the set point I'll apply more power and if I know the coil I'm using is rather small, I'll start out at a fairly low power setting and go from there.

Lastly are the folks who are mostly using their TC rig's in "low wattage mode" and never apply enough power to reach the set point. While this is a "work around" for mods that won't "buck" (step down) in VW mode, there is no need to use this with the Reliant as it "bucks" fine in VW mode.

I would categorize myself in both 1 and 2. For my DNA 40 and 200 mods I usually set the wattage higher than what is needed, then let the board do the regulating. For my Yihi mods I try and find a decent joules setting that doesn't stress or make the mod sound like a buzzer. As for my SXK mod, I set the wattage so it barely reaches my set temp so I don't have to deal with the aggressive wattage regulation.

 

[f1vefour]

54, you must run your subtanks at a little lower wattage than me. I run my STminis at 30-35w and have to keep the wicktails well away from the juice channels in order to do so.

Don't have a subtank, I only have a Zephyrus

 

[f1vefour]

So far only a couple of folks comment with any detail here about the smoothness of tc when reaching set temp. Strangely, it seems most peeps using tc mods are not setting wattage high enough reach set temp. It's as if they are leary of allowing the mod to take control of wattage regulation and choose instead to regulate wattage themselves by underpowering. Could be they've experienced pulsey (choppy) operation with their other mods as you have; or perhaps with the reliant itself, I don't know.

I'm spoiled with the glass smooth tc operation of my evics and so I am still a bit reserved about buying a reliant. Maybe as it becomes more popular more peeps with reliants will be posting here.

The Reliant reaches 450 @ 30W within a second on twisted 28g 430, it's smooth as it regulates.

I don't go higher because it isn't necessary and it saves battery life. I think the VT must be under powered since you seem to think you need more wattage for functional TC. On this mod you don't, or at least I don't. I am single coil but I have 3mm airflow and am pulling hard so it isn't like I'm tootle puffing, I'm blowing impressive clouds for 30W with full regulation.

Twisted 28g isn't really a small mass of wire either, similar to single strand 24.

 

[cigatron]

I've tried: Ni, Ni and SS and the Reliant regulates the temperature very smoothly.

Ni builds are ~0.3ohms - lots of wraps of 32AWG Ni200 or 8-10 wraps 28AWG Ni200.
Ti builds are ~0.3-0.9ohms, 26-32AWG (depending on tank)
SS builds are 1.4-2ohms SS430

There seems to be three different schools of thought when it comes to TC:

1. Use the highest power available and let the mod regulate the temp
   
2. Use enough power to get to the set point <1sec and let the mod regulate the temp
3. Use very little power and use the set point for "wick burn control"

Some TC mods have issues with #1 and create a noticeable on/off or pulsating vape. Others may emit noise or wildly fluxuate the coil temperature while attempting to regulate it.

#2 is my personal preferred way of using TC. When I mount a new tank I'll count to myself and hold the fire button and watch the display. If it takes longer than ~1 second to reach the set point I'll apply more power and if I know the coil I'm using is rather small, I'll start out at a fairly low power setting and go from there.

Lastly are the folks who are mostly using their TC rig's in "low wattage mode" and never apply enough power to reach the set point. While this is a "work around" for mods that won't "buck" (step down) in VW mode, there is no need to use this with the Reliant as it "bucks" fine in VW mode.

Thanks for the excellent post @GeorgeS . I am in the #2 camp as well, kind of. My Evics with STminis run at 30-35w (while vaping) at the temp set point so I set the wattage higher than that. A 35w setting is high enough to ramp quickly to temp set point but not high enough to stop popping and spitting if my rig has been sitting around unused for 15 min or longer. 45w watts works great to stop the popping and spitting issues and ramps up fast. Any higher wattage setting than that seems to be a waste of power and occasionally puts a very slight burny edge to my vapor from temporary temp over run.

 

[cigatron]

The Reliant reaches 450 @ 30W within a second on twisted 28g 430, it's smooth as it regulates.

I don't go higher because it isn't necessary and it saves battery life. I think the VT must be under powered since you seem to think you need more wattage for functional TC. On this mod you don't, or at least I don't. I am single coil but I have 3mm airflow and am pulling hard so it isn't like I'm tootle puffing, I'm blowing impressive clouds for 30W with full regulation.

Twisted 28g isn't really a small mass of wire either, similar to single strand 24.

Even though the Evic underheats it doesn't seem to be underpowered. My STminis had always run comfortably at 30w in vw mode on all my mods with kanthal builds and 35w is pushing it with single wire builds. The Evic regulates power between 30-35w while vaping (looking in a mirror) when set at 490°f.

Have you checked power regulation while vaping (looking in a mirror) to ensure you're actually vaping at around 30w when the mod hits tp? Sorry for all the questions 54.

 

[GeorgeS]

Reliant day one report:

• I was able to vape ~12hrs on a HG2, a new record for me on a single 18650 mod. I retired it when there was still a bit of battery left - however the display had throttled back the wattage to 7.5w
  
• a modern USD coin can get almost stuck in the battery compartment slot (this is not a bad thing)
• the RED mod goes with the red stripes on my Kanger RTA's
• the NCYN was very reliable, only this AM when I grabbed the mod did it redundently ask if a new coil was installed

SS430 day one report:

• I converted 3 different RTA's over to SS430: Kanger Subtank, STM and Lemo2 clone
• on one of the builds I played with singing cotton ~380-430F (my normal vaping temps) and settled on a TCR of 15
  
• all the builds were >1ohm so they could be fired on my older VV/VW stuff, some (in the case of the Lemo2 clone) are just slightly over 2.0 ohms
• all single coil contact builds, I did not pay attention to # of winds as I was simply winding on 2.5mm rod to fit the length of the coil to the width of the deck
  
• The Lemo2 clone is surely the 'star' of the conversion (very wide deck)
• Many of the coils started out with to low of a resistance to fire on my >1ohm mods, a issue quickly fixed by dry burning on a subohm mod which after cooling the value would settle in to the expected range. This lead me to try to pre-measure a random wire length and dry fire it first before winding it into a coil (which may or not of done anything useful other than make the wire turn a pretty color)
  
• My clearomizers/atomizers were a complete bust. While I've been able to successfully stuff Ni and Ti builds in my Nautilus and Atlantis shells, I could only get an Anyvape RBA to work in the Atlantis. I suspect that the weak 'pressure contact' (not mechanical screw) of the leads was causing problems here and the higher TCR of the other wire types work better in this situation.

All in all a very productive unproductive Saturday.

 

[cigatron]

Sounds like 430ss is working great for you. Still waiting for @f1vefour 's pif'd 430 to arrive here. Apparently the usps sent it by horse and cart.

My Evics max at 1 ohm in TC so I'll be winding twisted 28g 430ss for my STmini build. Can't wait to go back to twisted. I like 24g Ti tc builds but the flavor was slightly better with my twisted 28 kanthal builds.

I will be torching (annealing) the 430ss after twisting to increase malleability and to help form the dietectric oxide coating needed to isolate the twained pair; something I discovered works great for kanthal and Ti to reduce hot legging and hot spots, oftentimes firing perfect on the first pulse.

 

[f1vefour]

Even though the Evic underheats it doesn't seem to be underpowered. My STminis had always run comfortably at 30w in vw mode on all my mods with kanthal builds and 35w is pushing it with single wire builds. The Evic regulates power between 30-35w while vaping (looking in a mirror) when set at 490°f.

Have you checked power regulation while vaping (looking in a mirror) to ensure you're actually vaping at around 30w when the mod hits tp? Sorry for all the questions 54.

It is in TP the whole time, I have looked while vaping. No problem with the questions, continue to ask anything you want to know.

I don't know what's up with the mail, if it isn't there by tomorrow I will send it again.

 

[GeorgeS]

@cigatron I don't have a Evic so can't comment on that however I've over shot the SXminiM's "0.3 ohm max TC" by 3-4x without problems in Ti mode so using that as an example, I think other mod's "max ohms in TC mode" might very well be bogus as well.

A quick look at the Reliant website and manual say nothing about the maximum resistance in TC mode. 2ohms seems to be working for me here. I do have another Lemo2 clone that I may play with later today - maybe see if I can get a 2.5-3.0ohm coil to TC.