Apollo Reliant 60W - TC with TCR adjustment, including Stainless Steel support

[cigatron]

Stay tuned.

430 definitely works well with the Reliant, the twisted build I'm running is pretty flawless. I do get tired of the Reliant asking the new atomizer question after an hour or so of sitting idle, they could have implemented this feature differently. I want the ability to turn it off, it isn't needed often enough to warrant it being on all the time.

Maybe the reliant is sensing a lower atty res after it sits for a while and reaches 20c? If you pick "new atomizer" it shouldn't ask again with the same atty should it?

Haven't received vapemail yet 54, but I am looking forward to trying the 430ss. Thanks for sending some my way.

 

[pevinsghost]

I'm pretty sure 317 and 316 has too low a TCR value to be TC capable on anything except maybe the DNA200.

The reasons why I use 430 in order of importance.

1. Nickel content is only a trace.
2. I can use the same atomizer/build on standard wattage or temperature control modes.
3. I can dry burn without issue.
4. The resistance perfectly matches my preferred building style. Twisted 8/7 around 2.4mm mandrel is 0.45 ohms, perfect. Same setup with single strand is 0.72 ohms (just right for kayfun on mech).

Pretty much the perfect wire for me, I just got lucky that 28g fit my needs.

I've switched completely to 316L/317L on my xcube ii. For dripper, I'm on a velocity, for a tank I'm using Triton coils on an Atlantis. Some have had problems, as I did with earlier firmware, but right now I'm in tc heaven.

Not having any problems here. The Triton is not the most accurate temp wise, but it works.

Now maybe when my 430 arrives I'll fall in love and have a new favorite, but will have to wait and see.

 

[GeorgeS]

One of the reasons I have a Reliant on order is for the SS430 - however I don't recall the TCR number I need to set it to for SS430 to work right.

Being able to dryburn/clean your coils is a big bonus. Seems like there was a BUNCH of folk scared to death with dry burning TI. I like the idea of having one wire for TC and VV.

Is the Reliant continously asking if it is a "new coil" in VW mode (sort of makes sense since the wire will change resistance) or TC mode?

 

[f1vefour]

Maybe the reliant is sensing a lower atty res after it sits for a while and reaches 20c? If you pick "new atomizer" it shouldn't ask again with the same atty should it?

Haven't received vapemail yet 54, but I am looking forward to trying the 430ss. Thanks for sending some my way.

It's not that, it's 0.45 ohms when room temperature and reads 0.45 ohms when I select same coil or new coil.

It has a timer of some sort or something similar, it seems like it always asks the question after idle for maybe 1.5 hours. I need to time it but that's hard to do.

I believe it's by design because of ambient temperature changes, only thing I can think of.

The resistance is rock solid on 430..It could be my dripper getting cooler than the mod I suppose and the Reliant is reading ohms in the thousandths internally. I know I don't like it asks this but it's a minor inconvenience at best.

The more I use the device the more I like it, TC is only a bit pulsey when not applying enough wattage to the build and the battery is low. I'm currently running 30.5 watts @ 450 with the TCR set to 17, really nice vape.

 

[GeorgeS]

Gee - new RED toy waiting for me in the mail box.... cool... slap in 18650 and....

• the Reliant fits in my hand nicely - smaller and lighter than a SXminiM but larger than a iStick TC40
• I actually like where the fire button is - sort of like a SXminiM
• all the buttons are very low profile - a bit difficult to hit all three of them at once
• the 'mode' changing took a bit to get used to - mine will likely live in TC mode so no worries
• getting to the TCR menu was a bit finniky, the manual only lists the TCR of Ni200 and a value of 69. It seems to work, I've not tried Ti as of yet but did venture into SS430

one of my side project is rebuilding and making use of my 'beginner gear' including Aspire Nautilus tanks and atomizers. I dropped a multiwrap (did not count) 2.5mm coil in a Nautilus atomizer and 1.83ohms!! Wow. Thinking I hit paydirt with the SS430 I dialed in a TCR of 17 and gave it a vape. Umm... not so good.

It seemed at first that it might work but after a few minutes it was not able to reach, maintain or regulate any temperature. I started at 15W, slowly went up to 30 and then backed back down to 15w. I tried a TCR of 17 to 11 and the tank just got warmer and warmer. Spitting and sputtering. I may have to MUCH juice flow as this atomizer was heavily modified to fit the coil. (sigh)

I had a Kanger subtank sitting nearby - 0.5 ohm Ti build on it - set TCR=40, it did require much more wattage than the two Ni tanks I was using before - 25-35W to get up to temperature in a reasonable time - I actually turned the temp down 30-40F from where I usually have it set but seems to work. I'll later pull the large deck on the Subtank and toss a SS430 build in there and see how it goes.

The other half did not even say anything when I opened the package this time - she must be getting used to my vape purchases by now.

 

[f1vefour]

one of my side project is rebuilding and making use of my 'beginner gear' including Aspire Nautilus tanks and atomizers. I dropped a multiwrap (did not count) 2.5mm coil in a Nautilus atomizer and 1.83ohms!! Wow. Thinking I hit paydirt with the SS430 I dialed in a TCR of 17 and gave it a vape. Umm... not so good.

This can't be right, to get up to 1.83 ohms @ 2.5mm you would need 20 wraps.

Either you have a bad connection, your mod is reading the resistance way wrong, or that is not SS430.

Try the Nautilus on something else to check the resistance.

Try 20W, TCR 13/12 and temperature of 400F

 

[pevinsghost]

One of the reasons I have a Reliant on order is for the SS430 - however I don't recall the TCR number I need to set it to for SS430 to work right.

@TheBloke recently posted numbers for just about everything except 430 recently.

https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/f...ess-steel-support.697809/page-8#post-16466671

So with @f1vefour getting good results at 17 on the reliant, we can guesstimate the tcr is between 0.00185 & 0.00215.

I'll look for that other info which should have better numbers.

 

[GeorgeS]

This can't be right, to get up to 1.83 ohms @ 2.5mm you would need 20 wraps.

Either you have a bad connection, your mod is reading the resistance way wrong, or that is not SS430.

Try the Nautilus on something else to check the resistance.

Try 20W, TCR 13/12 and temperature of 400F

Actually with the thin wire (and the spring back to a bit larger) I could of stuffed nearly 20 wraps in that little atomizer.

My next build was on a Atlantis atomizer. This time I came in at 2.2ohms - or at least that is what it started at. Figuring that this was high enough resistance to use wattage mode, I grabbed my Vamo v10 and dialed in 10W - weak, 15W a bit better, 20W seems to work fine. However while vaping instead of the resistance going UP it was going DOWN - the Vamo was reading 1.4ohms at the low point!!! (I'm letting them both cool right now)

I'm now beginning to wonder what UnkamenSupplies shipped me as SS430.

 

[GeorgeS]

@TheBloke recently posted numbers for just about everything except 430 recently.

https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/f...ess-steel-support.697809/page-8#post-16466671

So with @f1vefour getting good results at 17 on the reliant, we can guesstimate the tcr is between 0.00185 & 0.00215.

I'll look for that other info which should have better numbers.

Thanks! I knew I'd seen that somewhere but now I have a mod that has a TCR adjustment - I could not find it!!

Next up is the subtank on SS430 (or whatever UnkamenSupplies sent me when I ordered SS430).

(subtank on Ti 0.5ohm build vapes fine, Kfun v4 clone on Ni 0.34ohm build vapes fine, Nautilus on Ni 0.33ohm vapes fine) I'm liking this mod!

 

[f1vefour]

@TheBloke recently posted numbers for just about everything except 430 recently.

https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/f...ess-steel-support.697809/page-8#post-16466671

So with @f1vefour getting good results at 17 on the reliant, we can guesstimate the tcr is between 0.00185 & 0.00215.

I'll look for that other info which should have better numbers.

TCR of 17 with twisted wire, 12 or 13 on single wire.

But 17 is indeed good with twisted, I have vaped rayon super dry with no scorching or dry hit @ 450F.

 

[pevinsghost]

TCR of 17 with twisted wire, 12 or 13 on single wire.

But 17 is indeed good with twisted, I have vaped rayon super dry with no scorching or dry hit @ 450F.

Ok, so that sounds like between 0.00130 & 0.00165 instead then.

 

[f1vefour]

Ok, so that sounds like between 0.00130 & 0.00165 instead then.

Agreed

 

[f1vefour]

However while vaping instead of the resistance going UP it was going DOWN - the Vamo was reading 1.4ohms at the low point!!! (I'm letting them both cool right now)

I'm now beginning to wonder what UnkamenSupplies shipped me as SS430.

I can tell you SS430 definitely increases in ohms, if it's going down something is screwy.

 

[pevinsghost]

Ahh, here we go, a slightly more complete list.

https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/f...nt-of-resistance.676506/page-97#post-16569174

 

[GeorgeS]

The Kanger Subtank worked better - it was a bit wonky at first but I was able to dial in TCR=15, 20W, 400F on a 1.64ohm coil (lots of 2.5mm wraps contact coil ~ as wide as the deck, expands large enough to fit 3mm silaka rope).

 

[f1vefour]

The Kanger Subtank worked better - it was a bit wonky at first but I was able to dial in TCR=15, 20W, 400F on a 1.64ohm coil (lots of 2.5mm wraps contact coil ~ as wide as the deck, expands large enough to fit 3mm silaka rope).

Your using silica in a Subtank with no leaking, that's fairly amazing. Any reason you aren't using cotton (or rayon)?

Keep playing with the settings and you will get it dialed in, you don't need to wrap so many times. 8 or 9 wraps is plenty, don't worry about the ohms.

I believe you have 13 wraps which isn't too bad. Did you dry burn the coil to make certain it is firing correctly? This is necessary just like with kanthal, usually heating up the coil till it glows (not in temperature mode), raking something metal across the coils then firing it again is enough.

You want a nice even glow from inside out.

 

[cigatron]

Your using silica in a Subtank with no leaking, that's fairly amazing.

I've used silica, cotton balls, joc, cotton bacon, little bit-o-heaven, rayon, ceramic (readyxwick) and hemp fiber in my STminis; never had one leak a drop. That said, if the wattage is set too low to vape off the juice as it's being pulled in, any tank will leak with any wicking medium. KGD is my choice for adv wicking. I would use rayon for the extended wick life and higher burn temp but the flavor....aaaack.

I know what you're say'n though, non absorbant materials are more prone to dripping off juice down the airtube.

 

[GeorgeS]

Your using silica in a Subtank with no leaking, that's fairly amazing. Any reason you aren't using cotton (or rayon)?

Keep playing with the settings and you will get it dialed in, you don't need to wrap so many times. 8 or 9 wraps is plenty, don't worry about the ohms.

I believe you have 13 wraps which isn't too bad. Did you dry burn the coil to make certain it is firing correctly? This is necessary just like with kanthal, usually heating up the coil till it glows (not in temperature mode), raking something metal across the coils then firing it again is enough.

You want a nice even glow from inside out.

I'm sorry but I don't think 'no leaking' is anything special. (while this is the 1st time I've fitted a Kanger ST with it) I've used Silica on many of my different RTA's and Clearomizers without any issues. Silica is preferred over the other materials because of its robustness and ease to work with. Besides when dialing in and playing with the settings on a new mod and wire type Silica is your friend as its burn/degrade temperature is astronomical compared to cotton or rayon.

I believe that at some of the TCR settings I was using last night the coil could of easily fried cotton or rayon.

I purposely built with lots of wraps as I can now use even my OLD 15W mods to power the tank. When using 28AWG and smaller diameter wire its all about the surface area - stuff as many windings in there as possible. It was nice to use a 'contact coil' however some folks feel that they 'gunk up' faster than non contact coils.

I'm currently set at 20W, 380F, TCR=15 vaping a 50/50/9mg DIY coffee flavored blend.

Now as long as I don't get the loose screw's on the top plate issue that others were having this mod is 'good to go'. I tossed it on a USB charger last night next to a SXminiM. While it did take a oddly long time for the screen to turn off, it was fully charged when I grabbed it this AM (and the screen was off).

Cheers everyone and happy Saturday!

 

[f1vefour]

The reason I said that about silica is because it doesn't expand much, if even a little bit smaller than the wick channels it will usually leak.

I feel you about the higher ohms, I used to do that also so I could use my VAMO but I retired it.

 

[cigatron]

The reason I said that about silica is because it doesn't expand much, if even a little bit smaller than the wick channels.

54, you must run your subtanks at a little lower wattage than me. I run my STminis at 30-35w and have to keep the wicktails well away from the juice channels in order to do so.