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After a day and a half, I had no problems with this tank.
I routinely carry it in a jacket pocket wen out and about and ave ad zero issues. While is is generally upright, it can fall over some.
I did lay it on its side or 30 min with the ill port down and did not experience any seeping. It will scrape anything off the fill port gasket when closing, resulting in a small drop.
Flavor is very similar to the Berserker and Siren 2, IMO.
I routinely carry it in a jacket pocket wen out and about and ave ad zero issues. While is is generally upright, it can fall over some.
I did lay it on its side or 30 min with the ill port down and did not experience any seeping. It will scrape anything off the fill port gasket when closing, resulting in a small drop.
Flavor is very similar to the Berserker and Siren 2, IMO.
Here is my simplistic explanation. There are two main methods to deliver e-liquid to the heating element, capillary and vacuum based. The capillary method was used and still used in RDA, RDTA, Genesis, etc. where various materials like cotton, mesh or steels ropes simply absorb and transport e-liquid. In those systems JFC is not required, the quantity of e-liquid is controlled by the capillary properties of the transporting material. The vaporizing chamber can be on top, at the bottom or in the middle of e-liquid reservoir.
The vacuum based systems (Kayfuns, Hussar, Berserker, etc) leveraging the pressure difference between the vaporizing chamber and the tank section. When you take a vape the pressure becomes slightly negative in the vaporizing chamber and it "sucks" e-liguid from the surrounding tank. The vaporizing chamber must be at the bottom of the e-liquid reservoir. JFC is very much needed for top fill, because if you open the top cap without closing the juice ports the air pressure will simply push a lot of e-liquid into the vaporizing chamber and result in flooding. The bottom fill eliminates the issue, because the pressure will be normalized when the juice doesn't reach the openings in the chamber.
Ares is a variation of a capillary system, simple and yet very effective design, easy to use, especially for beginners. The deck could've been positioned higher or lower, I think P+D decided to position it somewhat in the middle based on the length of chimney, to ensure it is right for MTLers and the vape is not too hot or too cold.
OK,got mine sat. morning but didn't have time to play with it much. used the coil supplied with cotton,filled it up half way. no leaking had about two -three good pulls then it like locked up no air ,so thought I did something wrong . left it set overnight this afternoon had time to build my own coil 2.5 kathanal 28 guage came out to 1.7ohms. filled it up couple of good hits then no air again,so I pulled it apart took out the 510 pin cleaned out with air and chunk of weird plastic came out. so rebuilt same came out to 1.5 ohms vaping away suddenly was get a lot juice in the mouth,increased the watts still the same tore it down again took off the diffuser thing and rebuilt now it's working really well going to leave it set overnight upright with air open and see what happens in the morning. by the way that was with 90 vg juice. also the tip gets real warm so had to use a different tip
With you so far. Also in cartomizers, Vivi Novas, various CE 1-12, etc.
Still with you. It's a combination of vacuum and capillary, if one wants to be pedantic about it, because they all have a wick threaded through the coil (to do the capillary work), but I'm not pedantic.
Right. I never had a problem with bottom filled tanks as long as I didn't have to dump the juice to work on the deck, and I agree that the convenience of top filling introduced all kinds of new problems to the basic design. I do own a Kayfun 4--love the vape, hate the over engineered design, like everybody else.
Now I'm losing you.
If it's a capillary only, does it mean there's no vacuum in the tank? At all? And if the deck can be positioned lower, why isn't it? We already have reports that the vape is too hot at 15 watts with 1Ω coil made from 26 g Kanthal--that shouldn't be a hot vape at all. I never had a drip tip or an atty overheating in this situation--in any atty. 
The diffuser thing is removable? The top part with little air holes in it? That's interesting.
Do you mean it's working well without a diffuser? With just one airflow hole under the coil? Or am I misreading your report?
All RTAs, even the Ares, rely on both effects, capillary action and the difference in pressure. Some are affected more by one rather than the other, which is why "sky decks" don't really need a JFC but they can still definitely flood.
yes just a single hole I left the diffuser thingy off,it just screws off
The diffuser thing is removable? The top part with little air holes in it? That's interesting.
Do you mean it's working well without a diffuser? With just one airflow hole under the coil? Or am I misreading your report?
yes it's even warm at 1.5 ohm 11 watts ,I believe the chimney is to short and the wick cut outs are to big really not as good as they said and they rushed to get it out for the holiday shopping season.I won't buy another one,sad won't jump in so soon againWith you so far. Also in cartomizers, Vivi Novas, various CE 1-12, etc.
Still with you. It's a combination of vacuum and capillary, if one wants to be pedantic about it, because they all have a wick threaded through the coil (to do the capillary work), but I'm not pedantic.
Right. I never had a problem with bottom filled tanks as long as I didn't have to dump the juice to work on the deck, and I agree that the convenience of top filling introduced all kinds of new problems to the basic design. I do own a Kayfun 4--love the vape, hate the over engineered design, like everybody else.
Now I'm losing you.
As I said - simplisticNow I'm losing you.
Capillary action and air pressure play role in both methods. And gravity Why they chose that particular position for the sky deck - I don't know. If it would've been lower the chimney would've been longer and the vape cooler. Obviously we talking about the same tank height. May be that how they like to vape? Personally I am fine with the vape temperature. I am using clapton coil 0.8 ohm @ 23W with the supplied non-curved mouth piece and it's slightly warm, subjective of course.
You might be right Victor, as Phil atleast, likes to vape at around 15 watts and likes his vape on the warm side (say 420°F to 450°F), but not hot. Of course the question arises, what does he consider Warm or Hot ??
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I got a 1.5 ohm clapton coil in mine at 20 watts, it is a warm vape like I like, but not what I would consider hot, but then I did switch out the drip tip, before I used it.
I like cool vapes, my Berserker is setup at 0.93Ω and pushing a Big ol' 7.5 watts
using 28g Kanthal in a 2mm coil.
using 28g Kanthal in a 2mm coil.I like cool vapes, my Berserker is setup at 0.93Ω and pushing a Big ol' 7.5 watts
Yep me too. My standard build comes out to about 1.5 ohms and I rarely go north of 10 watts...
I prefer my vapes cool as well... Hmm... Perhaps this tank isn't for me. Although it sounds like the issue can be resolved somewhat, I really don't enjoy warm vapes, so if it's constructed that way, good to know about it.
Anna
Although it sounds like the issue can be resolved somewhat, I really don't enjoy warm vapes, so if it's constructed that way, good to know about it.Anna
May I ask for a little more detail about using a clapton coil in a single coil MTL RTA?
Out of curiosity I ordered some clapton wire (to be prcise this one: Geekvape Clapton Wire KA1 / 28ga x 2 + 32ga 15ft -$4.29 Online Shopping| GearBest.com ) because I heard everyone raving about the great flavor you get from these... but MAN this wire is HUGE...
So I build a little test coil 5 wraps with ID 3 mm (seems less doesn´t make sense with such a big wire) and put it in a fev v4 to test it... made a microcoil that means no space between the wraps... but only the very side of the coil was glowing when I made the initla "dry burn", the rest or the coil stayed dark... that was with 20 watts.
Long story short: I failed. Is there anything to be considered when using clapton wire in a MTL tank? Spaced vs. Microcoil? Still love to try it again once.
Thanks,
K.
Just to avoid confusion (I hate to be that "correcting" guy, but I'm gonna...lol): Believe you mean spaced vs contact coil. Microcoil generally refers a simple, single, round wire wrap.
With Claptons, or any other chunkier contact coil, it takes a little work to get them glowing evenly. Rake them, move your build tool back and forth inside the coil, "gentle" pulses that allow the heat to slowly spread across the coil and get them going...
With Claptons, or any other chunkier contact coil, it takes a little work to get them glowing evenly. Rake them, move your build tool back and forth inside the coil, "gentle" pulses that allow the heat to slowly spread across the coil and get them going...
I get the 36/28 single core clapton wire from lightning vapes - Clapton Wire Spools
6 wraps around a 2.5mm bit contact coil, gives me around 1.5 ohms, do need more power to fire a clapton coil, so 20 watts works good for me, but could go a little lower or higher with it
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