This is 100% true, now that I test it. It makes my black one usable again.
I wonder what the heck is going on under that airflow ring!?!?
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This is 100% true, now that I test it. It makes my black one usable again.
I wonder what the heck is going on under that airflow ring!?!?
LOL, that sounded dumb. I put put the tank band/protector around the top cap.
Now that's a New one on me. I have never seen anyone post that that has happened to them before. I take it that you are talking about the 510 pin/screw breaking off internally. That is weird, but having to make a video for them sucks, big time !!
Whoa now dawg, whoa. Don't be too hard on Menthol's here
, I smoked Kool Kings for many decades, and make my DIY a Menthol/Mint juice, that I am using right now. I guess I have always been a dual user, as I always liked both Camel "unfiltered" and Kool "King sized". Right now I DIY Menthol/Mint and Unflavored juice's, so I guess I haven't changed much. That's one of the things I liked about smoking Kool's, is when folks saw what I was smoking, they wouldn't ask for one. My Win !!
Edit; I guess this makes me a "Independent", rather than a "Liberal" or a "Conservative" ?? To put it another way, I swing BOTH ways.
Nope, not really folks.
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I had a Vaporesso Gemini RTA that was delivered to me DOA; that had a similar problem. The 510 positive screw just spun freely, and I couldn't get an electrical connection. When I turned the screw, you could see something (looked like a shiny metal bar) spinning around inside the air intake slots, that was obiously atted to the screw. If I put a toothpick through the slot, to stop the bar from spinning, the bar would thread up/down the 510 screw.
This deck has a modified velocity style deck (in that it has a tube running up the center of the deck that is supposed to provide additional air to the insides of the dual coils). As best I could figure, because the positive post was not directly centered over the 510 screw, they needed a means to connect the pin to the post.
This was the diagram I included in my e-mail, to the retailer that sold it to me, to help explain what I thought was going on:
I also included a short video that demonstrated what the spinning bar looked like through the air slot. I never got any conformation/denial that my design presumptions were correct. But, they sent me a replacement deck, without any further questions.
I don't know how the bar was supposed to be attached to the positive post (if it was cast, press-fit, threaded, or something else). But, when I removed the 510 screw completely (thereby detaching the bar), I could find nothing else internally that the screw could reach/touch.
It's an eleaf invoke. I won it, and I reviewed it somewhere. Love it, great battery life, good form factor, nice vape and feels good in the hand. I'm really glad I won it as it's not something I probably would have purchased, although I do love all my Eleaf products. I know there are other folks that have one and really like it, too.
Anna
Nice work... Its like an x ray image of the tank. lolI had a Vaporesso Gemini RTA that was delivered to me DOA; that had a similar problem. The 510 positive screw just spun freely, and I couldn't get an electrical connection. When I turned the screw, you could see something (looked like a shiny metal bar) spinning around inside the air intake slots, that was obiously atted to the screw. If I put a toothpick through the slot, to stop the bar from spinning, the bar would thread up/down the 510 screw.
This deck has a modified velocity style deck (in that it has a tube running up the center of the deck that is supposed to provide additional air to the insides of the dual coils). As best I could figure, because the positive post was not directly centered over the 510 screw, they needed a means to connect the pin to the post.
This was the diagram I included in my e-mail, to the retailer that sold it to me, to help explain what I thought was going on:
View attachment 718419
I also included a short video that demonstrated what the spinning bar looked like through the air slot. I never got any conformation/denial that my design presumptions were correct. But, they sent me a replacement deck, without any further questions.
I don't know how the bar was supposed to be attached to the positive post (if it was cast, press-fit, threaded, or something else). But, when I removed the 510 screw completely (thereby detaching the bar), I could find nothing else internally that the screw could reach/touch.
That was nicely done Joel.I had a Vaporesso Gemini RTA that was delivered to me DOA; that had a similar problem. The 510 positive screw just spun freely, and I couldn't get an electrical connection. When I turned the screw, you could see something (looked like a shiny metal bar) spinning around inside the air intake slots, that was obiously atted to the screw. If I put a toothpick through the slot, to stop the bar from spinning, the bar would thread up/down the 510 screw.
This deck has a modified velocity style deck (in that it has a tube running up the center of the deck that is supposed to provide additional air to the insides of the dual coils). As best I could figure, because the positive post was not directly centered over the 510 screw, they needed a means to connect the pin to the post.
This was the diagram I included in my e-mail, to the retailer that sold it to me, to help explain what I thought was going on:
View attachment 718419
I also included a short video that demonstrated what the spinning bar looked like through the air slot. I never got any conformation/denial that my design presumptions were correct. But, they sent me a replacement deck, without any further questions.
I don't know how the bar was supposed to be attached to the positive post (if it was cast, press-fit, threaded, or something else). But, when I removed the 510 screw completely (thereby detaching the bar), I could find nothing else internally that the screw could reach/touch.
Thanks.
My drafting instructor (from 30+ years ago) is probably flailing in his grave; but it kinda-sorta gets the idea across.I remember my mechanical drawing class. Mr Ackerman, great instructorThanks.
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I had a Vaporesso Gemini RTA that was delivered to me DOA; that had a similar problem. The 510 positive screw just spun freely, and I couldn't get an electrical connection. When I turned the screw, you could see something (looked like a shiny metal bar) spinning around inside the air intake slots, that was obiously atted to the screw. If I put a toothpick through the slot, to stop the bar from spinning, the bar would thread up/down the 510 screw.
This deck has a modified velocity style deck (in that it has a tube running up the center of the deck that is supposed to provide additional air to the insides of the dual coils). As best I could figure, because the positive post was not directly centered over the 510 screw, they needed a means to connect the pin to the post.
This was the diagram I included in my e-mail, to the retailer that sold it to me, to help explain what I thought was going on:
View attachment 718419
I also included a short video that demonstrated what the spinning bar looked like through the air slot. I never got any conformation/denial that my design presumptions were correct. But, they sent me a replacement deck, without any further questions.
I don't know how the bar was supposed to be attached to the positive post (if it was cast, press-fit, threaded, or something else). But, when I removed the 510 screw completely (thereby detaching the bar), I could find nothing else internally that the screw could reach/touch.
A really good explanation of your problem. I now see what you are talking about. They got you all fixed up and sent a new deck, Super.
Man my ares flavor is great now. (I turned the wattage up 3 watts).
Ask me why I didn't experiment more sooner? IDK. I haven't had to "push" wattage much over 10, so I usually don't. For me with this setup 13 watts just gets the job done.
Yeah, I feel like an idiot, but I'm glad to see it really IS excellent for flavor. Was wondering what I was doing wrong.... LOL.
Anna
Ask me why I didn't experiment more sooner? IDK. I haven't had to "push" wattage much over 10, so I usually don't. For me with this setup 13 watts just gets the job done.
Yeah, I feel like an idiot, but I'm glad to see it really IS excellent for flavor. Was wondering what I was doing wrong.... LOL.
Anna
I just built 3 Ares, with identical coils, and identical wicking. (Well as close as I can get them to identical).
I put the same juice in all 3.
ALL 3 Ares have different draws, when set to the same hole/setting.
This inconsistency is driving me nucking futs.
I saw a sale on a berserker, and I’ll be pulling the trigger.
I put the same juice in all 3.
ALL 3 Ares have different draws, when set to the same hole/setting.
This inconsistency is driving me nucking futs.
I saw a sale on a berserker, and I’ll be pulling the trigger.
I just got a Berserker and I really like the tight draw but I have to practice a little more with the wicking (rayon).
The Ares is so much easier to build & wick and I seem to get it right every time. The vape is consistently smooth with great TH & flavor, not to mention being very silent.
I will continue with the Berserker because with wicking practice, I'm sure it will get better.
As it stands... the Ares is my #1.
The Ares is so much easier to build & wick and I seem to get it right every time. The vape is consistently smooth with great TH & flavor, not to mention being very silent.
I will continue with the Berserker because with wicking practice, I'm sure it will get better.
As it stands... the Ares is my #1.
Well now that I have all three, the Siren V2 is still my favorite. The Ares is a close second (mine is also silent and non-leaking) and I like the draw a great deal... It's a nice balance between the siren (very airy) and the berserker (almost enough force to detatch my dentures from my implants, which isn't so good). I may drill out one of the airholes more on the Berserker, although I have to say all three of them have strong points and really, it becomes a matter of personal preference.
Other than Kayfuns, it's nice to see some reliable, easy to use and excellent flavor MTL RTAs hitting the market at once, and to get to compare them. I like things about all of them, and use all of them. The Siren V2 is pretty unbeatable to me, and I don't know why.... Perhaps it was because it was the first RTA I had some real, easy consistent success with. It shines best with fruit flavors in my opinion, but I don't consider it "flavorless" with really any of my juices. I just love it.
Anna
Other than Kayfuns, it's nice to see some reliable, easy to use and excellent flavor MTL RTAs hitting the market at once, and to get to compare them. I like things about all of them, and use all of them. The Siren V2 is pretty unbeatable to me, and I don't know why.... Perhaps it was because it was the first RTA I had some real, easy consistent success with. It shines best with fruit flavors in my opinion, but I don't consider it "flavorless" with really any of my juices. I just love it.
Anna
Received the new Ares from Innokin yesterday and I'm happy to report it's working. Annoying noise is gone. Guess I got a bad one. Just in case someone is thinking of buying an Ares from Vapor Authority, they said mine was the only one they sold that had this problem.
Nope. Not in you head.
I discovered this a while back and it's allowed the Ares to, at least, be usable for me.
I own the Invoke as well. Like Stols, I'm pretty happy with it. Probably the smallest dual 18650 mod you'll find today. It's tiny. My only minor issue is the battery door on the bottom...maybe not the tightest around. It's never accidentally opened on me, but I do find myself inspecting it fairly often as it will loosen slightly from use (picking up/setting down).
Hi,
so I wanted to ask you folks to take a look at my build. Can´t get this thing to work like it should, after rewicking it´s fine for a few draws until the wick starts to get dry again and gives me dry hits. There is just no juice reflow. Hardly see any bubbles rising, if so, very tiny ones.
Currently I´m using a 3 mm ID SS coil 28GA with 9 wraps, very slightly spaced. Results in around 1 ohms, vaping with 14 watts. Standard KGD cotton pads used for wicking. Also tried Rayon, no difference.
What do you think?
Also, my mod looks like this in the morning:
Seeping down from the airflow ring on the mod... very annoying.
Also emaild Phil Busardo about this, maybe he can give some tipps too.
Like to master this tank, but it seems I can´t.
Any comments appreciated.
K.
so I wanted to ask you folks to take a look at my build. Can´t get this thing to work like it should, after rewicking it´s fine for a few draws until the wick starts to get dry again and gives me dry hits. There is just no juice reflow. Hardly see any bubbles rising, if so, very tiny ones.
Currently I´m using a 3 mm ID SS coil 28GA with 9 wraps, very slightly spaced. Results in around 1 ohms, vaping with 14 watts. Standard KGD cotton pads used for wicking. Also tried Rayon, no difference.
What do you think?
Also, my mod looks like this in the morning:
Seeping down from the airflow ring on the mod... very annoying.
Also emaild Phil Busardo about this, maybe he can give some tipps too.
Like to master this tank, but it seems I can´t.
Any comments appreciated.
K.
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