Arlo - dual 18650 DNA20/30 step-by-step how-to
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Nice! tanks for the info... Now just to find the skills and time to do this! Awesome work!
I was thinking the same thing regarding the lower cost Vamo PCB. I have seen those for less than half the cost of a DNA and if you do not need 30 or even 20 watts of power, this would work. I simply LOVE the elegant "store-bought" look, feel and functionality of this box; the charging ease and flashlight just put this marvel over the top in coolness. GOT TO MAKE ONE OF THESE!!!!!!
Mamu, we are grateful that you share your genius with ECF. Thank you.
Don't tell anyone.. but FastTech has the V5 boards now... $11.64 each.. :O
I know! ammirite? I've never soldered anything in my life, but if I pull this off, it'll be awesome.
my dna came in the mail today. It's a really good thing all the rest of the stuff I need will take at least a couple of weeks - maybe longer so I won't be jumping right in. plenty of time to read/watch/learn - even practice. I think I'm going to buy one of those practice soldering boards I saw on amazon this morning.
Mamu, what was the reason you chose to replace the existing positive and negative battery contacts with the "Keystone C size" items?
-Just wondering! I am thinking about the simplest way to put this project together!
-Just wondering! I am thinking about the simplest way to put this project together!
You don't need to use a rated switch with the DNA so any switch you choose will be fine.
Mamu, what was the reason you chose to replace the existing positive and negative battery contacts with the "Keystone C size" items?
-Just wondering! I am thinking about the simplest way to put this project together!
The batt contacts that come with this case are unsuitable for use as well as not safe for use with our mods and the load (amps) we need as they are thin and flimsy and have high contact resistance.
What this means is that you will see a high voltage loss under load which puts stress on the batts. The batts will also cut out at a higher unloaded voltage - so your vape time will be short. Plus, you may not be able to run the DNA at higher watts.
The Keystone batt contacts are low contact resistance and able to carry the amp load so there will be minimum voltage loss under load, least amount of stress on the batts, and the batts will be able to go the full distance before cutting out.
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Can u share what site(s) u used to get the parts, please.
I found and purchase the battery case on ebay. All others having a hard time, some sites have a $30+ min surcharge.
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Digikey.com has the C cell connections. Search their site for 5240 and 5241. eBay has many suitable fire buttons that look the same, as well as the little tactile buttons. I have the power bank box coming as well as an $11 Vamo PCB from FT. Madvapes has the 510.
I never turn my Vamo up past 12 watts, so I don't think a DNA would be worth it, to me anyways. As Butthead says: "This is gonna be cool!"
I never turn my Vamo up past 12 watts, so I don't think a DNA would be worth it, to me anyways. As Butthead says: "This is gonna be cool!"
Digikey.com has the C cell connections. Search their site for 5240 and 5241. eBay has many suitable fire buttons that look the same, as well as the little tactile buttons. I have the power bank box coming as well as an $11 Vamo PCB from FT. Madvapes has the 510.
I never turn my Vamo up past 12 watts, so I don't think a DNA would be worth it, to me anyways. As Butthead says: "This is gonna be cool!"
Thanks JohhntDill! I didn't get a chance to update my post, I found Digikey.com earlier today and they had most of the parts, they already shipped that was nice. I purchase double of everything just incase I ruin any part as I go along. Purchased the battery case last night (ebay seller mamu stated), received email it shipped out today.
I am down to finding:
1) 510 Connector (was hoping for a spring loaded one, still looking around, nothing at all that I can find) the new Vapor Shark has a nice one in the unit, that would be great. If not madvapes it is, I purchase stuff from them all the time.
2) Fire Button, 12mm flat is not easy to find so far. Some of the ones on ebay you have to be careful with as the button u press is 12mm but the diameter of the entire switch (less cover plate) is much larger than 12mm. So still looking.
I was starting to also wonder if maybe a larger version of the KSJ0M21180SHLFT for a fireing button would work, but how does one secure it, as it is what you use the most. Maybe a bad idea altogether, don't want to rush this, maybe mamu has a new switch as an idea to move us along or maybe overstock of those MSW-1202 for us to purchase
3) DNA30 (looks like they are back ordered now?)
4) DNA frame/cradle (I though I saw this on evol site, now I don't see it?)
5) Lexan or acrylic for DNA frame
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I got my batt contacts and fuses from mouser.com and a 510 connection from fatdaddyvapes.com AND from freedom e-cigs - going to pick the best one. up/down buttons from there too. in a pinch, I could use one of those for the fire button, but I'm holding out for a better option.
The DNA cradle can be had here: bap mods - diy mod parts by bapgood on Shapeways
Mamu put up a link for the acrylic lens.
I think the DNA chip is going to be your hardest find. Probably your best bet is to find as many sites that carry them as you can and get on their email list so you can act when they get some in. I got mine at perfection vapes and just got in under the wire before they sold out. came in the mail yesterday.
The DNA cradle can be had here: bap mods - diy mod parts by bapgood on Shapeways
Mamu put up a link for the acrylic lens.
I think the DNA chip is going to be your hardest find. Probably your best bet is to find as many sites that carry them as you can and get on their email list so you can act when they get some in. I got mine at perfection vapes and just got in under the wire before they sold out. came in the mail yesterday.
this is the screen cradle I got - Mamu says use the 2mm:
DNA Screen Housing W-Stop 2mm by bapgood on Shapeways
DNA Screen Housing W-Stop 2mm by bapgood on Shapeways
Digikey and mouser I have found to have the most at the best prices. I've used dx recently for some nice looking lit fire buttons and I have tons of stuff coming via fasttech.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I577 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I577 using Tapatalk
Hi mamu and everyone! Noob here and I'm preparing for this build.(first build ever) I have a couple of questions..
1. I bought 4 of the 3a fuses (dna30) recommended in the arlo how to but I'm kind of confused on how to parallel them... Can someone elaborate? Photos of how would be wonderful.. Wire fuse wire fuse wire?
2. How to drill holes in the plastic properly? I don't want to Crack the case because I don't want to wait another month for another one.. What drill bits should I use? Drill speed?? I have a diesel to cut the window but curious to how exactly you guys did it..
I'm sorry if these questions are kinda really noobish..
Great guide mamu.. I did not have the courage to even try to build a dna mod until I saw this how to.
Thanks in advance to anyone that can help..
Jon
1. I bought 4 of the 3a fuses (dna30) recommended in the arlo how to but I'm kind of confused on how to parallel them... Can someone elaborate? Photos of how would be wonderful.. Wire fuse wire fuse wire?
2. How to drill holes in the plastic properly? I don't want to Crack the case because I don't want to wait another month for another one.. What drill bits should I use? Drill speed?? I have a diesel to cut the window but curious to how exactly you guys did it..
I'm sorry if these questions are kinda really noobish..
Great guide mamu.. I did not have the courage to even try to build a dna mod until I saw this how to.
Thanks in advance to anyone that can help..
Jon
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To parallel fuses, you simply solder one end of each fuse together then solder the other end of each fuse together to make a parallel set then treat it as one fuse. If you've paralleled 2 3A fuses together, you now have a 6A fuse and with half the resistance.
2x smd fuses soldered together in parallel and 2x leaded fuses soldered together in parallel... fuses have no polarity so it doesn't matter which ends you solder together... I apply a dab of flux using a round toothpick to the ends before soldering the ends together...
You can use a dremel (I use a flex shaft attached to the dremel so I don't have to hold the heavy dremel in my hand) or drill press to do the holes in the case. With the screen cutout, I dremel to about a mm of the edges, then use a needle file to straighten and square off the cutout.
2x smd fuses soldered together in parallel and 2x leaded fuses soldered together in parallel... fuses have no polarity so it doesn't matter which ends you solder together... I apply a dab of flux using a round toothpick to the ends before soldering the ends together...
You can use a dremel (I use a flex shaft attached to the dremel so I don't have to hold the heavy dremel in my hand) or drill press to do the holes in the case. With the screen cutout, I dremel to about a mm of the edges, then use a needle file to straighten and square off the cutout.
Awesome, thank you all for the replies!
For this housing we need to select "black" - Strong & Flexible Plastic for the finish, as there is also a 'black' detail plastic.
Nice stuff on that site, it never poped up on any web searches. Wonder what those firing buttons on that site are.
I noticed some of the fire buttons are tricky they stay liteup all the time; also in 12mm.
Let us know what u found when u have a moment.
Good luck to everyone on the build, again thank u mamu!
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