Arlo - dual 18650 DNA20/30 step-by-step how-to

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moflicky

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I can't adjust it down but at 20w, it's just right for the build in this magma and I just had to vape it and take a couple of pictures.

everything works like a charm except for the down button.

heartache.
 

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madburg

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@mamu, where can we purchase these veroboard 1x4 pieces? Seems it comes in a large size board which we would have to cut out a 1x4 from? If you can share a link at least I know I am buying the right size :)


@moflicky, sorry to hear about the button, scratching my head how that happen to you. You tested prior to epoxying them (and after soldering them on the dna Board) right?
 

moflicky

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Yahoo!

I took a better frame of mind look at it tonight and could see the board connections. I nudged them with a dental tool and then put a dab of solder on each connection. voila!

Another minor issue - my fat daddy 510 doesn't want to stay stuck - it's spinning inside the epoxy gel cone. I tightened it down as tight as I could and it seems to be holding for now - just need to make sure I don't twist an atty too tight.

Take note - be sure whatever 510 you're using has something to grip the epoxy.

what fun! Thanks again Mamu! this was a blast!
 

mamu

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@mamu, where can we purchase these veroboard 1x4 pieces? Seems it comes in a large size board which we would have to cut out a 1x4 from? If you can share a link at least I know I am buying the right size :)

Veroboards don't come 1x4 - you have to cut a piece of the veroboard to that size.

You can buy on ebay, or Radio Shack sells round ones that you can cut a 1x4 piece.

Yahoo!

I took a better frame of mind look at it tonight and could see the board connections. I nudged them with a dental tool and then put a dab of solder on each connection. voila!

Another minor issue - my fat daddy 510 doesn't want to stay stuck - it's spinning inside the epoxy gel cone. I tightened it down as tight as I could and it seems to be holding for now - just need to make sure I don't twist an atty too tight.

Take note - be sure whatever 510 you're using has something to grip the epoxy.

what fun! Thanks again Mamu! this was a blast!

Well done and congratz, moflicky!

I use VersaChem 15' set time plastic welder for the connector - gel epoxy when hardened doesn't grip the connector good enough to keep it from spinning.
 

moflicky

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Well done and congratz, moflicky!

I use VersaChem 15' set time plastic welder for the connector - gel epoxy when hardened doesn't grip the connector good enough to keep it from spinning.

crap! That's what I get for not reading the directions carefully. I got some of that but used the gel instead.

Instructions? what Instructions? I'm a man - I don't need no stinking instructions! :)
 

SupplyDaddy

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Well, being my heavy handed self.. I finally got my VAMO V5 version done..
It works, it looks sloppy, it charges and charges my phone and the light works and all the VAMO options work.
20140408_131042.jpg
20140408_130809.jpg
20140408_130821.jpg
20140408_130833.jpg
Since I don't plan to take it back apart.. Hot glue... yea yea.. I know...
20140408_131104.jpg

I'm ham handed and a 3rd rate hack.. LOL I could not for the life of me figure out how to get the "lit" tact switch I used to light up... scratched the window area big time and then cut it out too large. I have just made a frame for the screen to protect it some and will put that on later. I will also get some wrap to cover the scratches.

And while I could have bought a ready to go VAMO with what I spent on this (actually, I destroyed the 1st VAMO chip I tried), I didn't want a tube. Total cost of working model here $28ish plus another $12 for the 1st chip I fried..maybe another $2 for the lit tact switches I destroyed too LOL

But most important part, I'm happy with this!
 
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moflicky

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But most important part, I'm happy with this!

Looking good! And the wrap will clean it up a lot. DNAs are so hard to get I think I might try something along these lines - I still have an extra charging station and I won't have to buy buttons, wire, solder, iron. First one cost me nearly $200, the next one will cost me $12. lol!

battery life on mine so far is awesome. I started vaping with it exclusively last night about 8pm. - all kayfuns around + or - .1 of 1 ohm, firing between 16 and 18 watts (which seems to be my sweet spot). It's now 6:30 and it still has 2 blue lights on the charger and half a battery on the DNA screen. Going to let it drain until the DNA surrenders.

More than a day charge on a DNA? how friggin' cool is that? very few of the $250 mods out on the market have anywhere near that kind of battery life.
 

SupplyDaddy

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...and about 10 minutes after my post, wife walks in the door as I'm walking out..Crash! The Arlo -Vamo hits the floor.. the ego connection I used is knocked part way off.
Stuck it back in and headed out. Knew there were problems when I got the 9.9 reading. I did not leave room for something like this! Lol. After I got back, spent 40 minutes cutting out the hot glue near the connection, adding an extra 1.5 inches of wire to both positive and negative Vamo wires, stuffed it all back in and its working fine again.
Need a better way to secure an ego connector.. it's not like I can use the #12 finishing washer on the larger connection. :/

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I577 using Tapatalk
 

moflicky

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@mamu, this looks interesting:

5V 1A 3X 18650 Battery USB Charger Case Box Mobile Power Bank for Cellphone MP3 | eBay

the battery box slides out so it might be possible to install the dna into it and just slide it in.

battery contacts are probably weak, but for 10 bucks, I might just get one just to give it a look. Even if it's unsuitable, it would make a acceptable car charger for 18650s.

Edit: nah, not practical unless the DNA and buttons remain inside. you'd have to cut the battery box up a bunch to get it to work.
 
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Kataphraktos

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@mamu, this looks interesting:

5V 1A 3X 18650 Battery USB Charger Case Box Mobile Power Bank for Cellphone MP3 | eBay

the battery box slides out so it might be possible to install the dna into it and just slide it in.

battery contacts are probably weak, but for 10 bucks, I might just get one just to give it a look. Even if it's unsuitable, it would make a acceptable car charger for 18650s.

Edit: nah, not practical unless the DNA and buttons remain inside. you'd have to cut the battery box up a bunch to get it to work.

I just received a couple of these. They are not an option for a build. The top, grey part is impossible to take apart without damaging it. And that grey part makes it impossible to attach a 510.
 

moflicky

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I just received a couple of these. They are not an option for a build. The top, grey part is impossible to take apart without damaging it. And that grey part makes it impossible to attach a 510.

Thanks! good to know. It would be cool shape though, right?

maybe we can get shapeways to 3d print us some custom boxes. ;-)
 

Kataphraktos

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As you can see, both versions needed a replacement top piece. If I went ahead with this, I would want to use the existing case in its entirety, for aesthetic reasons. If I started replacing pieces, I might as well just make one on Shapeways.

Furthermore, my thought was to reuse the existing built-in USB charger board as is, so my 510 would go on the other end, directly above the 18650 slot where the DNA30 board would go.

But these links have convinced me to re-visit this case.
 

moflicky

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FYI a few more details of my build, hope it helps someone.

I did not modify my fat daddy 510 - I shortened the inside length by fitting one of an extra brass nuts on the outside like this:

IMG_20140409_181010_797.jpg

there's already a gap anyway so I saw no reason to cut down the inside to make it shorter, and it probably would have just barely fit even if I hadn't used it that way.

I also ordered some of Bap's plunger connectors but they didn't come in until today and I couldn't wait for them - but I did successfully get them installed in a fat daddy 510, without having to modify them at all.

I first used a 1/8th drill to widen the insulator a bit. Then I used a 9/64 all the way through.

Then, I VERY carefully used a 5/32ds bit to go about half way through the delrin to give space for the collar. then, just screw the delrin into the connector and carefully tap the pin into the delrin until it is flush. this should be exactly the right length for the plunger on the other side.

you only have a little room to solder your positive wire, but that sucker is stuck in there and isn't going anywhere unless you have a really long 510 atty to push it past the plunger.

works like a charm. see pics (hope they're big enough to see).

IMG_20140409_180553_109.jpgIMG_20140409_180521_386.jpgIMG_20140409_180448_281.jpgIMG_20140409_180412_505.jpg
 
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