Arlo - dual 18650 DNA20/30 step-by-step how-to

[SupplyDaddy]

....I am still waiting for my Vamo PCB..... So I started on fitting the 510 and the battery connections. I want this mod to be unique, so I made a stainless steel 510 collar that mates with my Russians seamlessly. The 510 connection is pressed in VERY tightly and I doubt this will ever need any epoxy. This way, it is serviceable if needed. -Very little room in there for the fasteners. This should be a strong and stable method to support the atomizer.
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Definitely tight for the Vamo board there. I had to use the PCB built in spot for the main button as there was no room left for an other area. Was able to mount the tact switches for the +/- buttons below the board though. Screen is a major pain as it's hard and longer than what is visibly used.

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[Phone Guy]

Mamu, I wonder if this would work for a sturdier enclosure?

https://www.fasttech.com/products/1340502

Wow that enclosure is gorgeous.

 

[mamu]

battery life is spectacular. I ran about 15-20mls of juice through my ~1ohm kayfuns at 15-18 watts on mine with 2 brand new VTC5s and it lasted from 6 am Thursday through noon Friday and was still firing like new.

It took almost 6 hours to recharge after that, so I'm thinking leave it on the charger every night.

@mamu - a couple of questions -

1. should I be regularly swapping my batts left and right or does it matter with this config?
2. how did you come up with the name Arlo? I love it. ;-)

I love love the batt life with the DNA with dual parallel 18650 batts too!

1. No, it doesn't matter with parallel batts.

2. I was searching for a masculine name for this mod and came across Arlo and thought perfect as it sort of rhymes with Milo.

Mamu, I wonder if this would work for a sturdier enclosure?

https://www.fasttech.com/products/1340502

Certainly it is doable and it is a nice size case for dual 18650 batts. Cases like that are a bit of a challenge though for n00bie modders as you're placing parts in blind with having access only through the top and bottom of the case instead of the full back side open like with Arlo and with these types of cases you need to make sure no wiring trails into the batt area else the batts won't fit. I did it though with my JAX DNA dual 18650 mod. There's a thread here so you can see what the JAX case looks like - it's an aluminum DIY 3x 18650 power bank.

 

[laurie9300]

The problem with the ruinovo case is battery space. The -ve battery springs are soldered on to the charge board so there is not a lot of length for the new contacts as I will have to fit a second insulating board in between.......easier to describe with pics......

 

[laurie9300]

There is plenty of room if I do away with the original board......but I don't have another!

 

[moflicky]

Looking good JohnnyD

 

[moflicky]

If you want more room in those ruinova boxes, how about this?

http://www.fasttech.com/products/1424/10004450/1340400-ruinovo-602-1a-2-1a-6-18650-dual-usb-output

with a little imagination you could probably even cut it to the exact length you need, maybe even have room for 3 batteries.

edit: cutting it would require some way of replicating the screw receivers for the end cap - and of course you would need another way to anchor the battery contact.

hrmmm.

 

[madburg]

Question for you all, I received my (2) VTC5's charged them and inserted them into the case, nothing lights up. If I plugin the usb cable in the case the led's light and so does the flash light. Anyone test the case before performing this mod and check if it work just with batteries. Logically im think it should work with batteries and I have a malfunction case... figured I ask before contacting the ebay seller.

Have only 2 out of the 3 18650 inserted shouldn't affect in working either, right?

P.S. with the batteries inside the case and inserting a usb cable into the output doesn't start charging any device i plug in on the other end.

 

[SupplyDaddy]

Question for you all, I received my (2) VTC5's charged them and inserted them into the case, nothing lights up. If I plugin the usb cable in the case the led's light and so does the flash light. Anyone test the case before performing this mod and check if it work just with batteries. Logically im think it should work with batteries and I have a malfunction case... figured I ask before contacting the ebay seller.

Have only 2 out of the 3 18650 inserted shouldn't affect in working either, right?

And it's working just as it should!
Note via Fasttech on the case:
" Details:
Note: After place or replace batteries, please charge the power bank to activate the output circuit "
($8.23 Xinbo 1-1.5A 3*18650 Single USB Output Mobile Power Pack Battery Charger w/ LED Illumination - black at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping)

Also, you will note the "reset" hole on the back of the case? You can use that instead of plugging in a charger.
I'm pretty sure it's a circuit protection thing.

 

[madburg]

Sorry, u lost me
I inserted charged batteries, how would one "please charge the power bank to activate the output circuit"?

Never mind, just saw the small hole and reset the case, its working now. Thank you !!!

So I have everything but a firing button and DNA30 to get started. Whew, thought the case was bad for a moment.

 

[moflicky]

Question for you all, I received my (2) VTC5's charged them and inserted them into the case, nothing lights up. If I plugin the usb cable in the case the led's light and so does the flash light. Anyone test the case before performing this mod and check if it work just with batteries. Logically im think it should work with batteries and I have a malfunction case... figured I ask before contacting the ebay seller.

Have only 2 out of the 3 18650 inserted shouldn't affect in working either, right?

P.S. with the batteries inside the case and inserting a usb cable into the output doesn't start charging any device i plug in on the other end.

Not sure why, but mine doesn't light up until I plug in the micro USB either. but it only needs to be plugged in for a second for it to work, and will work until you pull the batteries - then do the whole thing over again.

I can charge my phone with it, but you have to press the green onboard button to get it to start charging.

Edit: weird. the green onboard button blinked while it was charging my phone, but after I unplugged the phone it kept blinking - I had to plug in the micro usb input to get it to quit.

 

[madburg]

Edit: weird. the green onboard button blinked while it was charging my phone, but after I unplugged the phone it kept blinking - I had to plug in the micro usb input to get it to quit.

Yeah, thats probably a china feature... I'm just glad it even works LOL

 

[moflicky]

Yeah, thats probably a china feature... I'm just glad it even works LOL

;-) I don't plan to use it to charge my phone - I get 2 days life on it anyway.

browsing the fasttech site, saw this: $26.28 TrustFire E01 Rechargeable 5-8.4V 4000mAh 4*18650 Battery Pack Power Bank - USB port + 5.5mm*2.5mm port at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

It doesn't look like you can get one without batteries, so it probably take more than a month to get past customs, and I wouldn't trust a trustfire to power anything but a flashlight anyway, but the case sure looks interesting - plenty of room if you're only using 2 batteries.

Edit: Ali express sells them without batteries for $13

 

[moflicky]

I want this mod to be unique, so I made a stainless steel 510 collar that mates with my Russians seamlessly. The 510 connection is pressed in VERY tightly and I doubt this will ever need any epoxy. This way, it is serviceable if needed. -Very little room in there for the fasteners. This should be a strong and stable method to support the atomizer.
View attachment 325656

Johnny, tell me more about that top cap. what 510 connection did you use and how did you fashion the enclosure?

 

[JohnnyDill]

Johnny, tell me more about that top cap. what 510 connection did you use and how did you fashion the enclosure?

-I am a metal fabricator/welder/machinist. My garage is a self employed business. I also do DIY firearms projects.
That top piece is made of 304 stainless. It was turned down to the same OD {.856"} as my Russian clones which I am a big fan of. It ended up with a .136" thickness which looked good to me.

The four small holes were drilled with a little 4" rotary table which is indispensable for making things such as this {or guns.} From the outside edge of the disc, I traveled .120" in for the first hole, then indexed 90 degrees for the other three. I drilled with a #36 drill {.1065"} and tapped the 4 holes with a #6-32 tap. This is a pain, with such a small, fragile tap digging through stainless steel!

The 510 hole was made just under the diameter of the "splines" of a MadVapes 510, then I bored the top .030" of the hole larger so that the entire connection would sit flush. I forced this in with an arbor press and it is in there VERY tightly and perfectly flush.

Now for the surprise with machining the case! I originally visioned this fit with the 4 holes rotated 45 degrees from how you see it. But two of the holes will occupy the space for the access panel latches! -So this rules that orientation out. Now, two of the fasteners are purely decorative, and I put in two stainless set screws that I shortened to .125".....

With two functional locations left, I drilled these into the case, along with the main center hole for the 510. When I put it all together, I realized that the nuts on the inside of the case interfere with the batteries, so the nuts were shaved down to minimum diameter and thickness. Now everything fits......

Except the tiny re-settable fuses! -The mounting nuts interfere with where the fuses go in Mamu's images. So when I wired them in, I had to criss cross the fuse wires underneath and around the 510 because there is just no other space to occupy. Problem solved! I must say that soldering those microscopic fuses is an exercise in patience, even with soldering helping hands.

I could had done all of this with a "better" 510, but you have to draw the line somewhere with ordering parts and cost. It is incredibly stable and solid as it is. Hope this helps!

 

[Aphex_Twin]

fun time locating the tactile switches and a DNA30 board. Anyone have any leads that are sourcing these?

Edit: Found switches on Mauser. For some reason I missed those :S

Now for the board.

 

[ccv1]

I got my DNA chip off ebay. Wasn't cheap but it was available.


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[Phone Guy]

-I am a metal fabricator/welder/machinist. My garage is a self employed business. I also do DIY firearms projects.
That top piece is made of 304 stainless. It was turned down to the same OD {.856"} as my Russian clones which I am a big fan of. It ended up with a .136" thickness which looked good to me.

The four small holes were drilled with a little 4" rotary table which is indispensable for making things such as this {or guns.} From the outside edge of the disc, I traveled .120" in for the first hole, then indexed 90 degrees for the other three. I drilled with a #36 drill {.1065"} and tapped the 4 holes with a #6-32 tap. This is a pain, with such a small, fragile tap digging through stainless steel!

The 510 hole was made just under the diameter of the "splines" of a MadVapes 510, then I bored the top .030" of the hole larger so that the entire connection would sit flush. I forced this in with an arbor press and it is in there VERY tightly and perfectly flush.

Now for the surprise with machining the case! I originally visioned this fit with the 4 holes rotated 45 degrees from how you see it. But two of the holes will occupy the space for the access panel latches! -So this rules that orientation out. Now, two of the fasteners are purely decorative, and I put in two stainless set screws that I shortened to .125".....

With two functional locations left, I drilled these into the case, along with the main center hole for the 510. When I put it all together, I realized that the nuts on the inside of the case interfere with the batteries, so the nuts were shaved down to minimum diameter and thickness. Now everything fits......

Except the tiny re-settable fuses! -The mounting nuts interfere with where the fuses go in Mamu's images. So when I wired them in, I had to criss cross the fuse wires underneath and around the 510 because there is just no other space to occupy. Problem solved! I must say that soldering those microscopic fuses is an exercise in patience, even with soldering helping hands.

I could had done all of this with a "better" 510, but you have to draw the line somewhere with ordering parts and cost. It is incredibly stable and solid as it is. Hope this helps!

Can you be more specific as to what you did?
Kidding obviously. Its amazing how project difficulty changes depending on what line of work your in. For you, the fabrication of such a piece is second nature, you've got the skills and the tools..... where as for me, the electronics of the project are easy, but the building (irregardless how simple), machining, etc.... greek to me, and intimidating.

Mechanic friend of mine used to say intelligence all depends on where your standing... when I'm under the hood in front of this engine, I'm smarter than you (he'd said), where as when you're sitting in front of a computer - you're smarter than me.

 

[moflicky]

-I am a metal fabricator/welder/machinist. My garage is a self employed business. I also do DIY firearms projects.
That top piece is made of 304 stainless. It was turned down to the same OD {.856"} as my Russian clones which I am a big fan of. It ended up with a .136" thickness which looked good to me.

Thanks JohnnyD! that was way above the call. nice work!

 

[Aphex_Twin]

I'm finding that a DNA 30 board is like a needle in a haystack these days. Only a needle is easier to find