Arlo - dual 18650 DNA20/30 step-by-step how-to

[Kataphraktos]

and there's 38 pages to this thread and a bit too much to read every post.

I was considering answering some of your questions, but then I was like

 

[Taledus]

Sorry, I do not understand how that is helpful at all -_-

Am I not allowed to ask questions about the project?

I was considering answering some of your questions, but then I was like

 

[Kataphraktos]

Sorry, I do not understand how that is helpful at all -_-

Am I not allowed to ask questions about the project?

Mamu has spent thousands of hours documenting her work, has risked batteries and boards testing new ideas, and countless more hours helping all of us here. Without her how-to docs, I'd say 90% of all the people making mods today - including me - would never have made the attempt.

And you don't have a few minutes to spare to read a mere 38 pages? Especially 38 pages that will reveal both a treasure trove of advice and knowledge, and a list of all the additional things you should learn before attempting to build a mod?

Trust me, read the 38 pages. It is well worth the time. Some other threads are chock full of off-topic banter that makes reading through a nightmare, this is not one of them. And read some of mamu's other threads, especially those on battery protection, very enlightening.

 

[Taledus]

Mamu has spent thousands of hours documenting her work, has risked batteries and boards testing new ideas, and countless more hours helping all of us here. Without her how-to docs, I'd say 90% of all the people making mods today - including me - would never have made the attempt.

And you don't have a few minutes to spare to read a mere 38 pages? Especially 38 pages that will reveal both a treasure trove of advice and knowledge, and a list of all the additional things you should learn before attempting to build a mod?

Trust me, read the 38 pages. It is well worth the time. Some other threads are chock full of off-topic banter that makes reading through a nightmare, this is not one of them. And read some of mamu's other threads, especially those on battery protection, very enlightening.

I read through half of the pages on this thread, as well as a few others and it did not appear that the questions that I had were already answered. I even did several searches on this, and other threads, trying to find out the answers, but have had no luck. But since it is an unwritten rule to read every page of every thread before you ask a question, then I will do just that.

Likewise I have asked a question on Mamu's reverse polarity thread, specifically about that thread. It only has 4 pages, and I read through everyone, so hopefully that meets your Highness's approval for required reading before asking a question.

Honestly, you either know how to help, or you don't. I'm not some noob modder...I do have experience working with electronics, I just have never build a vaping device. The fact that you decided to remark the way you did about my questions was very rude and unnecessary.

 

[Kataphraktos]

I read through half of the pages on this thread, as well as a few others and it did not appear that the questions that I had were already answered. I even did several searches on this, and other threads, trying to find out the answers, but have had no luck. But since it is an unwritten rule to read every page of every thread before you ask a question, then I will do just that.

Likewise I have asked a question on Mamu's reverse polarity thread, specifically about that thread. It only has 4 pages, and I read through everyone, so hopefully that meets your Highness's approval for required reading before asking a question.

Honestly, you either know how to help, or you don't. I'm not some noob modder...I do have experience working with electronics, I just have never build a vaping device. The fact that you decided to remark the way you did about my questions was very rude and unnecessary.

That is a very different statement than your original "and there's 38 pages to this thread and a bit too much to read every post." I know of a number of ECFers who have all but stopped helping people because they got tired of such causal remarks that belittled their efforts. If you don't see how that statement could be both disheartening and infuriating to someone, nothing I say or do will likely change this.

That said:

1. I left the firing button on, and it did not get in the way. But generally, if you are not using it, it is best to remove it in any mod build, as there is the remote chance that something could cause it to fire inadvertently, either damage or some foreign object getting into the mod somehow.

2. That fuse works according to bapgood here.

3. The Arlo uses the built-in USB charging, no need to use an extra. You may keep this in case you build another mod that needs one.

 

[SupplyDaddy]

Taledus,
I'm prettybsure that that fuse is too lowa voltage. I seem to recall it's a 16 volt fuse called for in the parts list.
There is no need to add a charger if you wire the board up as directed. The built in charger of the power supply will do the job.
Im double checking the voltage on the fuse....

~sent from my galaxy mega using taptalk~

 

[moflicky]

1. I left the firing button on, and it did not get in the way. But generally, if you are not using it, it is best to remove it in any mod build, as there is the remote chance that something could cause it to fire inadvertently, either damage or some foreign object getting into the mod somehow.

agreed. the switch will be exposed to the wires running up and down the inside of the mod and the enclosure is plastic - you will be squeezing it right about where the button will sit.

remove the button - if you're hoping to reuse the chip at some other time, you won't be able to glue it in anyway making it even more likely it will accidentally fire.

 

[Taledus]

Taledus,
I'm prettybsure that that fuse is too lowa voltage. I seem to recall it's a 16 volt fuse called for in the parts list.
There is no need to add a charger if you wire the board up as directed. The built in charger of the power supply will do the job.
Im double checking the voltage on the fuse....

~sent from my galaxy mega using taptalk~

They are 3A 6V fuses. Amps are fine but I was unclear about the voltage compared to what is going to work. I also saw the thread about using these small smd fuses in parallel will not work sometime. I looked around and found (20pcs RGEF300 3A 16V PPTC PolySwitch Resettable Fuse). Will those work for the protection?

While I am at it would LED's be useful for the protection circuit, or just unnecessary?

I'd also like to ask about not using the DNA's on-board charge contacts...I am somewhat confused about what they are for and why they are not even needed?

 

[Taledus]

I have worked this up using the SI4477DY instead of 2-3A fuses for each battery. I could only find a clear image of the DNA 20, but I am going to be using DNA 30 for my project. I am wondering if this is how I would wire up?

 

[SupplyDaddy]

I have worked this up using the SI4477DY instead of 2-3A fuses for each battery. I could only find a clear image of the DNA 20, but I am going to be using DNA 30 for my project. I am wondering if this is how I would wire up?
View attachment 373754

Not much help can be given if everything you're doing differs from what has been posted. You need a different thread..

 

[Taledus]

Not much help can be given if everything you're doing differs from what has been posted. You need a different thread..

It has been posted but in different threads. I got the idea for the SI4477DY in one of Mamu's other threads (http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...urrent-reverse-polarity-protection-dna-3.html) because some of the small fuses similar to what I got do not provide protection. Instead of getting different fuses I am wondering if just one of these would work instead, and if this is how I would wire it?

 

[mamu]

They are 3A 6V fuses. Amps are fine but I was unclear about the voltage compared to what is going to work. I also saw the thread about using these small smd fuses in parallel will not work sometime. I looked around and found (20pcs RGEF300 3A 16V PPTC PolySwitch Resettable Fuse). Will those work for the protection?

While I am at it would LED's be useful for the protection circuit, or just unnecessary?

I'd also like to ask about not using the DNA's on-board charge contacts...I am somewhat confused about what they are for and why they are not even needed?

If you're using fuses that I or bapgood have not tested, you'll need to test the fuses yourself to see if they do provide reverse polarity. Breadboard the works using those fuses, then put the batts in backwards. Be prepared to immediately yank the batts if they or the DNA get hot. The way I test is by placing my fingers on the back of the DNA board or on the negative batt wiring as I insert the batts in backwards - you'll know right away if you need to yank the batts because your fingers will start to get warm right away.

The LEDs are just indicators that will light to let you know the batt(s) in backwards, does nothing for protection.

It's a matter of preference for me when working with a charging board that has different specs than the Evolv charging board to not use the DNA onboard + and - charging connections. This is because I'm not sure how compatible that charging board and its onboard components is with the DNA's onboard traces and current for the charging circuit. With the Evolv charging board, I use the DNA onboard + and - charging connections.

I have worked this up using the SI4477DY instead of 2-3A fuses for each battery. I could only find a clear image of the DNA 20, but I am going to be using DNA 30 for my project. I am wondering if this is how I would wire up?
View attachment 373754

All 3 Source pins and all 4 Drain pins of the P-FET need to be connected plus each batt needs its own P-FET for dual parallel batts. I gave details for this in the other thread.

 

[Taledus]

Thank you for taking time out to clarify things for me...I really appreciate it!

I am just being curious about this, but here is the box I am getting. It states that the in voltage is 5V which is going to go straight in to the batteries.
USB Power Bank 3X 18650 Battery Charger Box w LED Light for Cell Phone iPod MP3 | eBay

Here is the link to the additional usb chip that I ordered. It too says 5V in. I was unable to find just a separate Evolve version, so I just ordered this one even though it is not really needed with this setup.
5pcs 5V Mini USB 1A Lithium Battery Charging Board Charger Module in 4 5V 5 5V | eBay

I am no electrical engineer by any means, and I fully understand using a different charging board, but if the output from the DNA usb's chip is the same as the output of the chargers output when it is charging, is it possible that it can be used instead of just tying into the batteries?

My charger is on it's way from China so it is going to take a few days to get here before I am able to get a better idea and am able to test anything...but I am open to suggestions

 

[santo19586]

i got more parts in the mail today, 2 more components to go ,
Not sure if i want to paint the enclosure or not ,

 

[mamu]

Thank you for taking time out to clarify things for me...I really appreciate it!

I am just being curious about this, but here is the box I am getting. It states that the in voltage is 5V which is going to go straight in to the batteries.
USB Power Bank 3X 18650 Battery Charger Box w LED Light for Cell Phone iPod MP3 | eBay

Here is the link to the additional usb chip that I ordered. It too says 5V in. I was unable to find just a separate Evolve version, so I just ordered this one even though it is not really needed with this setup.
5pcs 5V Mini USB 1A Lithium Battery Charging Board Charger Module in 4 5V 5 5V | eBay

I am no electrical engineer by any means, and I fully understand using a different charging board, but if the output from the DNA usb's chip is the same as the output of the chargers output when it is charging, is it possible that it can be used instead of just tying into the batteries?

My charger is on it's way from China so it is going to take a few days to get here before I am able to get a better idea and am able to test anything...but I am open to suggestions

Most of the available charging boards require a 5 volt power source.

Charging current will vary from board to board. Evolv's charging board charges at 500mA. The Arlo charging board charges at 1A. A 1A capacity charger will recharge the batteries faster than a 500mA charger, so it will also generate more heat.

The DNA onboard traces from charging connection to input batt connection can probably handle 1A without issue so no worries there, but like I said it's a matter of personal preference for me to bypass it when not using an Evolv charging board. You have the option to wire as you like.

 

[Taledus]

DNA 30 charging

LOL...I probably should have done a bit more searching

If the charge ports only pull 500mA then it will probably be fine at 1A. I'll still breadboard everything and check though. Thanks again for the help!

 

[Aal_]

DNA 30 charging

LOL...I probably should have done a bit more searching

If the charge ports only pull 500mA then it will probably be fine at 1A. I'll still breadboard everything and check though. Thanks again for the help!

Just to make things clear, and excuse me Mamu for butting in, the charging board is what matters not the charger. What you linked in the quoted post states that whatever charger you use with the DNA charging board, the board will pull 500 ma. however if you are using a different board like the one from ebay it will pull 1A and you should use a 1A charger. Now how the DNA plays with the 1 A board is not known for me at least.

 

[Taledus]

Just to make things clear, and excuse me Mamu for butting in, the charging board is what matters not the charger. What you linked in the quoted post states that whatever charger you use with the DNA charging board, the board will pull 500 ma. however if you are using a different board like the one from ebay it will pull 1A and you should use a 1A charger. Now how the DNA plays with the 1 A board is not known for me at least.

You are right, it is referring to just the charging cable. There are too many similar terms being used so I think that is where I may be getting confused at on some of this.

The DNA's USB charging chip pulls 500mA from whatever 5V USB charging plug is connected to it. The chargers on-board USB chip pulls 1A from whatever 5V USB charging plug is connected to it.

I am going to have to check to see how many amps is coming out of the DNA's USB charging chip and how many amps is coming out of the chargers on-board USB chip. I still believe that the DNA's +/- charge ports are going to be rated for pulling 500mA, in which if I am supplying 1A that it will still only pull 500mA. I am fairly sure it really only matters about the voltage, but I am just as sure someone will correct me if I am wrong

 

[mamu]

...I still believe that the DNA's +/- charge ports are going to be rated for pulling 500mA, in which if I am supplying 1A that it will still only pull 500mA.

The DNA's +/- charge ports to do not "pull" anything - those charge ports are simply a passive connection with onboard traces shooting across to the DNA +/- input which is then connected directly to the battery +/-.

If the charging board is rated to pull 1A from the power source it will pull 1A. The DNA's charge ports have nothing to do with that and will not limit the charging board to pulling only 500mA.

If you read what Aal said "Now how the DNA plays with the 1 A board is not known for me at least" and that's my concern too and why I bypass using the DNA's +/- charge ports and tie Arlo's charging board +/- directly to the batts.

Also, bypassing the DNA's +/- charge ports and the traces shooting over to the DNA's input +/- and then on to the batt's +/- is one less interference with Arlo's 1A charging board.

The DNA's charging ports are simply a convenience, it's the modder's option to use the ports or not use the ports. Using the DNA's +/- charging ports for Arlo's 1A charging board will most likely be fine, I just choose to not use the DNA charging ports for Arlo or any charging board not from Evolv. Just a precaution I choose to take.

 

[Aal_]

The DNA's +/- charge ports to do not "pull" anything - those charge ports are simply a passive connection with onboard traces shooting across to the DNA +/- input which is then connected directly to the battery +/-.

If the charging board is rated to pull 1A from the power source it will pull 1A. The DNA's charge ports have nothing to do with that and will not limit the charging board to pulling only 500mA.

If you read what Aal said "Now how the DNA plays with the 1 A board is not known for me at least" and that's my concern too and why I bypass using the DNA's +/- charge ports and tie Arlo's charging board +/- directly to the batts.

Also, bypassing the DNA's +/- charge ports and the traces shooting over to the DNA's input +/- and then on to the batt's +/- is one less interference with Arlo's 1A charging board.

The DNA's charging ports are simply a convenience, it's the modder's option to use the ports or not use the ports. Using the DNA's +/- charging ports for Arlo's 1A charging board will most likely be fine, I just choose to not use the DNA charging ports for Arlo or any charging board not from Evolv. Just a precaution I choose to take.

BTW Mamu, is the battery indicator of the DNA affected if not using Charge+, Charge- of board? Or the animation of charging the battery?