Aromamizer RDTA by Steam Crave
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pizza2me !
tinker time for sure ! I was thinking it would give a shape to wind thin wire coils on before install . used about three quarter inch across . but the piece has to be so short it might defet the purpose .
I don't think you can do it without using cotton for juice pickup. ..so it wont be a true gennisis but who cares ?
thinking out loud again ...in my genny building days I remember somebody build one In a u shape ..maybe an upside u ?
plenty of room for wire ..but airflow ..??..
maybe roxynoodle has some ideas for low power , good performing builds .
Does the deck screw into the 510 base of the authentic? I was going to get a 5pk of the clone decks.
I do have one build I'm running between 35-40W that's decent. Twisted 28g 2 strand verticals.
Had this tank for 10 days now. It pretty much rocks. I've tinkered and found that I really like a single vertical coil. 26ga, 2.5mm @ 1.1 ohms right between the posts. My Lemos are still good to me, but this thing produces similar flavor with lots more vapor.
Does the deck screw into the 510 base of the authentic? I was going to get a 5pk of the clone decks.
Mine does not Miss Roxy, It is much deeper in height. Was hoping to be able to use it for spare parts if nothing else. The threaded holes for the screws on the v deck are smaller than the screws as well.You can actually see quite a bit of light between the screw threads and the screw hole it's self.
The 4 allen screws that came installed in it were different as well. 3 fit allen wrench supplied with it, while one had to use the allen wrench from the gen. So not very well made at all.
I do have one build I'm running between 35-40W that's decent. Twisted 28g 2 strand verticals.
I have tried both vertical and horizontal and my opinion is this tank just plain rocks. Either way is great. Have been wicking my horizontals the past few days with the Scottish Roll method and it is the best vape I have ever had in just over a year of vaping hands down. And very consistent. I just rewicked today after three days as it started to taste a little off. Cleaned the coils, rolled up a couple fresh ones and I am back to being blown away.
@cigatron Coming back to your question or doubt about lining up the coil: It was not my original idea but I did save the source for the method. HTH
Seems there are 3 of us . . .I want to see the build
And I'm glad I'm not the only one with 4 Aromamizers
Wrt alignment, it is too simple to nudge it back a little to put the air holes next to the coil, just peep through the air holes until you see the posts as you nudge, never takes very much and doesn't leak a drop.
I'll say this, risking a flame or two, if there were such a thing as a "flavor to juice consumption" ratio, the Aqua V2 would win that hands down. This tank is far easier to build, and if you're looking to change the weather the Aqua can't compete, but the Aromamizer does drink juice at about a 1.5 - 2.0X clip tank to tank.
Hey everyone I noticed my Aromamizer is leaking just ever so slightly through the airflow control holes. Not even enough to make my pocket wet or anything, just enough that it'll be juicy around the airflow ring. I'm using a vertical build, still my first build. Is it possible I just didn't have quite enough cotton on the bottom?
Check your chimney when you refill, bet it's loaded with condensation right? That's how that always happens with me. I'm not sure what build characteristics cause it, I know it's not an issue with everyone. I wipe it up in there real quick everytime I refill, but even when I don't it never gets any worse than that bit of juice around the AFC.
*edit edit* But yeah if your chimney is dry of condensation, it means too little cotton, or you need to block a hole a bit more. But that's not usually the case, it takes very little wicking to control those juice holes.
*edit edit* But yeah if your chimney is dry of condensation, it means too little cotton, or you need to block a hole a bit more. But that's not usually the case, it takes very little wicking to control those juice holes.
I have not heard of the "Scottish Roll' method. do you have a youtube link showing it?
Ok, I took a good look at his post and pics and all I can come up with is that he is just unscrewing the vdeck from the base a little to get the airholes aligned with the vdeck posts. The 510 pos screw can be loosened but that only allows the movement of the pos post and does not help to move the neg post which is machined into the vdeck.
I use tc so loosening anything in the atty is a big problem because it can introduce intermittent static res. Also loosening the tank a little is not going to work for me because I pocket my rig and pull it out by grabbing the tank, which can and does rotate when I grab it; also the reason why I pitched the silicone afc band.
I'm sticking to my original assessment that sanding a tiny bit of material off of the bottom of the tank to align the airholes with the vdeck posts is the only permanent fix and one which allows flawless tc operation.
I don't have to read your entire post to say:
You DO NOT move or allow the 510 to MOVE.
I do TC exclusively using Nifethal 52. When I remove and replace the 2-post the resistance remains IDENTICAL.
I have a 0.12 and 0.24 that have not wavered in the LEAST. Simply look at the 510 as you replace the base: see that it doesn't move; then check the AFC to see the coil precisely where it was before disassembly.
'Do as thou wilt shall be the whole of the Law'. [emoji41]
Okay, I read your entire post. It is not magic and you are not stupid.
You do appear to misunderstand:
One does not move the 2-post a little, or change the orientation of the 2-post. You unscrew the 2-post from the base, place it into the chamber, and (until you are certain of what you are doing) gently replace the base (part) observing that the 510 screw does not move AT ALL. The OP suggests holding down the 510. I have found that to be utterly unnecessary.
I turn the base counter-clockwise until I am sure it is threaded then tighten it down completely.
HTH
I just put my Aromamizer that's on a DNA200 on EScribe using atomizer analyzer. Screwed tight raw ohms was 0.145Ω, turn the deck 1/8 of a turn and raw ohms was 0.186Ω. I would think 1/8 turn is farther than what would be done but still those were the results.
Edit: this was done on a Hotcig DX200 which doesn't exactly have a very strong 510 spring.
Edit: this was done on a Hotcig DX200 which doesn't exactly have a very strong 510 spring.
I have one Aromamizer on the Reuleaux at 0.13, unchanged resistance for 5+ days.
The other is on the VS 200 at 0.24, unchanged for more than a week.
I don't get this "turn the deck 1/8 turn" business. My deck stays in the same place, time after time, dry-burn after dry-burn, re-wick after re-wick...
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