Ask IMAGINE & S_Steve - Thread :)

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Imagine

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a few things..

1) less nicotine means more flavor ...which will lead to more residue.
2) If the battery is less powerful it may lead to less vapor and tighter draw...or the connections may need a cleaning....or the bottom part may need to be cleaned to get better airflow...the symptoms may not be due to the head.

Same old 2Xs and same juices... though the batteries are starting to fade - almost half of the 12 of them I keep in rotation.. none are new though.
I vape a lot.. pretty much when both hands are not on the keyboard or cooking something - I have dropped to less nicotine in the same juices.. mixing my no nic with my 12mg juices of the same flavor - 12mg is too much these days - well.. except at the crack of dawn.

The two juices that made me wonder are both clear, no nic juices that prior to this round of heads, lasted over a month each.. just refilling with the occasional rinse.. two fills and I am getting much less vapor and a much tighter draw.. which made me notice that my soaking cup is getting a lot more action overall
 

awsum140

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Another comment would be that a rinse does not actually clean the residue off the coil. It will clean the wicks nicely, but the residue left on a coil is left untouched. If the coil isn't too badly fouled, a dry burn will take most, not all, of that off. You will need to rinse after a dry burn to avoid that burnt flavor, but it will improve the life of the device.

Just my opinion, worth what you're paying for it. Your results and mileage may vary. No warranty or guaranty is expressed or implied. Proceed at your own risk.
 

opal

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I'm pretty good about cleaning the connection area on my batteries.. around the post gets a lot of attention.. I didn't know the other end needed cleaning.. will for sure check that out.

dry burning.. how does one do that without frying the wicks? I have mostly auto batteries but did get a couple of manuals for just such a purpose - tried once on a T3.. fried wick.. mmmm tasty - works great on the cartos I use for dripping though.

the everclear soak doesn't get coil gunk either? bummer
 

awsum140

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The best way to dry burn a T3 is to remove the tank then remove the air tube. The air tube is a friction fit onto the top of the base. You may want to lift up the silicon washer that covers that joint. Wiggle and pull to remove the air tube. This will expose the atomizer chamber. On top of the coil are the "flavor wicks", or loose wicks. Use a pair of tweezers to remove them which will expose the coil. Then dry burn the coil, carefully. I usually heat until I see some wisps of smoke, then stop, and repeat as many times as necessary until I see the coil heat to red hot. I also use a very small brush to gently brush the residue off the coil. Then rinse and dry gently with a paper towel. The paper towel will wick most of the water out of the silica wicks by the way. Put the loose wicks back in, or better yet replace them with fresh wicks, put the air tube back on, fill, let it rest (base down) for a few minutes and you're good to go again.

The residue produced by vaping, apparently, involves a complex mix of molecules that actually form a sort of polymer of carbon from the PG, VG and flavors. This stuff is like concrete and the only way to get rid of it, successfully, is to burn it off. I've found a good rinse works for a few fills, but then I start checking the coil to make sure the residue isn't getting built up too much. As soon as it starts looking a little fouled, I do a dry burn. I generally use tobacco liquids with very low sugar (carbon) content and the coils still do, eventually, get fouled.

Another trick would be to dry burn, then re-wick using a wick made from a cotton ball. Cotton will work as a wick and has a high enough burn temperature to be used safely, but it won't last as long as silica wick. All you need to do is pull out the old wick, gently pull and twist a wick from a cotton ball, then feed it through the existing coil. Not as effective as a total rebuild, but pretty effective none the less.

Just my opinion. Worth what you're paying for it. Your results and mileage may vary. No warranty or guaranty is expressed or implied. Proceed at your own risk.
 
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opal

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wow..that would cut out a lot of my busy posting on forums schedule

I remember pulling that tube off one once.. not an easy chore - took a long time and I was afraid I was going to squish the tube since I needed pliers to grip that sucker.. I went to get the wick off and ended up destroying the coil in the process.

My favorite juices are the dark sweet ones.. that can't help

question for future reference.. would a fiber off a hemp rope work as a wick? I'm pretty sure hemp is more durable than cotton.
 

awsum140

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I rebuild them, completely, using silica wick which is what they come with. Once you work out a method t remove that tube it isn't hard at all. I can rebuild one, complete with cleaning it first so I don't get a handful of liquid while working on it, in about five minutes. It gets very easy with a little practice. Silica wick material is not expensive, other than the shipping as usual, and is available readily.

Dark, sweet liquids will foul a coil much faster than clear, non-sweetened ones. The amount of carbon in sugars is quite high which contributes to the fouling.

I don't know what to tell you about hemp as a wick. Maybe check and see if you can find the "ignition temperature" of hemp and compare that to cotton to find out for sure. I think I've seen comments about it being used here on ECF, but don't remember how effective or durable it may or may not be.
 

cindycated

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wow..that would cut out a lot of my busy posting on forums schedule

I remember pulling that tube off one once.. not an easy chore - took a long time and I was afraid I was going to squish the tube since I needed pliers to grip that sucker.. I went to get the wick off and ended up destroying the coil in the process.

My favorite juices are the dark sweet ones.. that can't help

question for future reference.. would a fiber off a hemp rope work as a wick? I'm pretty sure hemp is more durable than cotton.
Opal, those tubes wiggle off really easily when the head is screwed onto a battery. No tools necessary - just wiggle back and forth. I keep one dead 78 and one dead X2 in my toolbox just for things like this. Not that I think it would damage a working one - I just couldn't throw those pretty suckers away! :laugh:

And with dry-burning, keep your bursts really short. I've popped so many wires doing that - that's what made me finally learn how to rebuild them. And make sure they're completely dry first.

If you get into rebuilding, if your eyes are anything like mine, get ready to shop for magnifiers! those suckers are tiny! :lol:
 
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awsum140

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In the interest of a quick answer, yes, Volt clearomizers will work on the Volt Spinner battery. As a general statement, any Ego (the large threads on those batteries) only threaded device will work on Volt X2 or Spinner batteries but you need to be cautious not to screw them on too tightly.
 

skydragon

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In the interest of a quick answer, yes, Volt clearomizers will work on the Volt Spinner battery. As a general statement, any Ego (the large threads on those batteries) only threaded device will work on Volt X2 or Spinner batteries but you need to be cautious not to screw them on too tightly.

Thank you. =)
 
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