Atomizer marks on battery mech mod

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TheVapingGuy

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Jan 2, 2019
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Hi all,

I've been using a DJV Mech mod + DJV RDTA for about a month now paired with brand new Sony VTC5As. Running on simple round wire builds = dual coil 24g ni80 (6 wraps) ohming out to 0.24.

Noticed that the negative end of my battery (makes contact with the positive pin of my atty as I'm using this negative side up) is getting scratches / marks from the positive pin of my atty. There's no discoloration or 'burn' marks whatsoever. I've tried using the battery positive side up and it's still the same issue, i.e. positive end of the battery is beginning to show the same signs.

My button doesn't get warm / hot but I do notice my battery getting slightly warm after 2 or 3 pulls. I'm aware of calculating ohm's law to build well above my battery's CDR but I cant seem to figure out what's causing the marks on my battery. I've not been pressing the switch too hard nor have I been screwing the atty down too tight.

Any suggestions guys? Also, is my battery safe to use now that there are marks on all 4 of my VTC5As?
 
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AttyPops

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Arcing.
This is also why robust mechanical buttons of all types are hard to design. Generally, with a mod that has active circuitry, the button itself has very little current running through it, it trips another circuit that allows the big-juice to flow, so to speak.

But in the case of a mech mod, there's a large spark/arc because that is where all the current flows. It will eventually degrade/destroy the metal. Pins are replaceable for that reason too.

Interestingly, if you use an oscilloscope and map it out, you'll see "button bounce". Programmers regularly have to "de-bounce" button contacts when writing software for microcontrollers, even with low current buttons. The degradation problem is exaggerated with high current switches.

 
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AttyPops

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I'm not a battery safety expert, nor an mech expert. So grain of salt.

I'd consider the top-button of the battery to be more robust than the bottom one though, but "both sides" are likely to get some arcing.

Minor marks are probably just oxidation. But if it's seriously pitted to the point of it looking like it could fail structurally, I'd replace the battery and possibly the pin on the mech. Also, clean contacts regularly for good performance.

Why are you running the mod "upside down"? You realize, when you do that, you make the mod-shell positive (not the ground), right?
 
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TheVapingGuy

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Jan 2, 2019
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When I bought my mech mod there wasn't any specification on battery orientation but since the vent holes are at the bottom, I placed the positive side of the battery following the direction of the vent holes.

Ive tried researching on what's the recommended battery orientation on a mech (even if there's sufficient insulator at the button and inner sleeve) but there seems to be no conclusion but to always inspect and maintain my battery wraps. I've decided to use the battery positive side up from now which can at least buy me a few seconds if anything goes wrong
 

AttyPops

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It is often advised to put the battery in so that the positive faces the vent holes in the mech. A lot of mechs vent from the switch end so that would be when you have the negative to the hybrid top cap.
Interesting.

The flip-side to that argument is that any scratches in the battery-wrapping could cause a short even when the button is not pressed, since the battery shell is the ground/negative. The WHOLE shell.

So anyone running negative-up rigs, needs to really really check their battery wrap condition every single time.

Yeah, venting design is an issue no matter what. Batteries swell when they go thermal. I've seen recommendations (?on ECF?) for slots along the entire side of the mod...
 

Baditude

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Mechanical mods which have an ideal venting design are difficult to find. Its almost like vent holes, if included at all, are an after thought to the effect that they are almost more cosmetic than functional.

As @AttyPops said, the battery "can" can swell from the heat of venting battery or worse, thermal runaway. When that happens, the abused battery releases gas, and if the battery device is not ideally vented to allow gas to easily escape, the device becomes a pipe bomb.

If the battery chamber is narrow to reduce battery rattle, there may not be enough space to allow the escaping gas to escape to the bottom of the tube if the vent holes are located there.

full

Batteries are designed to have a weak spot beneath the positive contact, so during a venting event that is where the gas pressure will be released. Most mech mods have venting in the bottom of the mod (if they have any at all.)

Pictures of mech mods which have exploded ironically show that they have often blown the top of the mod off or blown the juice attachment off. Would they have done this if the vent holes were at the top of the mod? Probably not.

First vape related death
Mech Mods with top venting holes?
A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod


C3E3EE14-84B0-4663-89FA-91DB8D953AE1_zpshizhveti.jpg


The design of where the vent holes are in a mech is the FIRST thing I look for when looking at mechanicals. If it doesn't have adequate venting, I cross it off of my check list and would never vape it.
 
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gpjoe

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Scratches to your battery on any mech mod with a direct-to-battery top cap are unavoidable, in my experience. Just make sure you are not over-tightening your battery within the mod and it should be fine - you don't want to dent the battery terminals.
 

BrotherBob

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Thanks everyone for the great feedback! I always check my battery wraps every time before using my mech, as well as test firing it first on my regulated mod and checking the voltage of my battery using a multi meter. Can never be too careful.
Welcome and glad you joined.
 
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