are you able to just dissemble a atomizer and rebuild it with a new coil and wick yourself? Its just im tired of spending lots of money on atomizers only to get 1-2 good ones per pack. Also is it safe
atomizers
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The above pictured is a Velocity / (clone) it shows how an rda atomizer looks.
In this rda the two posts sticking up off the deck are positive and ground. You put the respective legs of a coil through each respective hole on opposing posts. That is you put one leg through positive, one through ground. You then tighten up grub screws to hold the legs taut in place. The coil is what you wrap around a mandrel of some kind to create the coil between the two legs.
Most RDA atomizers have two, three posts. Three post models can let you use four coils if you can figure out the logistics of it. There are some rdas that now use a postless design. Take your time getting to know the basics before trying one of those. A Velocity or Velocity clone seems a very good starting out rda, a company called Tobeco makes good clones of the Velocity, making it also an affordable rda.
Presently, I'm using an RSST which is a genesis style rda/tank. It has a small 3 ml ploy-carbonate juice well/tank under a simple single coil deck. The wick material runs through the deck, coil into the tank to wick juice keeping the coil wet. The coil I'm 'running' atm is reading at around 1.25 to 1.30 ohms in resistance. I have ran as low as 0.55 ohms on this rda before. Saps the battery life right away. I still get a heck of a lot of clouds using the higher ohm coil at low watts off this RSST. You need to learn how balance your coil builds, know what's safe and why.
Look up @Mooch here and read everything he writes about batteries. Well, maybe not everything but do take a good amount of time reading his stuff on batteries, it will help greatly. Oh, and if you ever carry batteries loose in your pocket with keys or change, nails, screws we'll be sure to nominate for the Darwin awards. Doing that is a very big NO NO. Always be safe with batteries, always respect vaping akin to respecting guns, chainsaws, driving cars. While vaping is about risk and harm reduction, there are serious aspects to it what need grave consideration, battery safety is one of those.
Those are Clapton coils so named because they resemble electric guitar strings, coils around an inner wire. Then, these are made into resistance coils for an atomizer. I'm using plain old 28 ga kanthal in my builds currently. It suits me for the time being. I also use rayon for wick material. I am a devotee to the church of rayon. It vapes well and does not apply any 'wick flavor' to the vapor.
Short answer. Yes, using rdas and rbas, rtas you can rebuild your own coils. You can even using the evods with replaceable coil head assemblies. The assemblies though are cheap enough for most you're better off buying new and pitching old ones. Look on youtube for videos showing how to "rebuild Smok Tech coil heads" to see the basics of that. Youtube also offers a bud's videos on building coils for rdas. Look up user Super X Drifter on you tube. He is also here as @super_X_drifter . He can guide you well in his videos.
Will stress again, take a little time and get to know the basics.
ok well just luckily my dad is an electronic and he said he can do it safely using his multi meter. I just need the material names oof the coil and wick used in atomizers if someone could help?
$2.17 Authentic Kanthal A1 Resistance Wire for Rebuildable Atomizers - 32 AWG / 0.203mm*10m / 43.89ohm/m at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
$5.78 Braided Silica Wick for Rebuildable Atomizers - 3.0mm*10m at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
pretty old utube now-- I switched to rebuildables a long time ago.
Coil wrapping
$5.78 Braided Silica Wick for Rebuildable Atomizers - 3.0mm*10m at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
pretty old utube now-- I switched to rebuildables a long time ago.
Coil wrapping
Only in that the pieces you work with are smaller. I made the switch when I switched from 36 different flavors in my rotation, and eventually settled on 12. RTA's can be configured to hold more juice.
Kanger protank coils are easy to rebuild, hardest part is getting the press fit top off without damage. Don't use pliers, gloves only..
I just got done tearing down, cleaning, and completely rebuilding a DID genny, with newly rolled wick and newly wound coil and it was a breeze. Back when I first started I was rebuilding Kanger Protank coils, and had 25 of them in rotation. It got real old real fast. It was RBA time. Got a genny right away, and still using them 3 years later. When you rebuild you know what you have and you don't have to depend on the B&M's for coils and wicks. Make your own juice and you don't need them for anything. Now doesn't that sound good?
My Melo 2 coils (Atlantis /Vaperasso/etc. compatible) type coils are fantastic to take apart and rebuild.
I prefer the Vaperasso (ceramic) as they look great, are very well built, have a dual layer approach for the winking, which regularize the liquid's flow.
I've been using a large nail (3.36mm thick) to roll the coil (28 gauge N200) for about 18 turns, which gives me around the 0.2 Ohm, and use organic Japanese cotton pads, cut in length to go with the "grain", take off about 1cm at the end, then separate the two layers and use one side - so one piece is good for two rebuilds.
They work as well if not better than the pre-built.
I prefer the Vaperasso (ceramic) as they look great, are very well built, have a dual layer approach for the winking, which regularize the liquid's flow.
I've been using a large nail (3.36mm thick) to roll the coil (28 gauge N200) for about 18 turns, which gives me around the 0.2 Ohm, and use organic Japanese cotton pads, cut in length to go with the "grain", take off about 1cm at the end, then separate the two layers and use one side - so one piece is good for two rebuilds.
They work as well if not better than the pre-built.
Kanthal Wire 28 Gauge RW0117 - 50 FT 0.31oz Series A-1 Resistance AWG is what I am using for resistance wire presently. There are other gauges of the wire, I'm choosing use of this gauge as it seems fairly standard and easily workable. Some of it I do oxide with a lighter, some I do not. I entrust the company ships out fairly clean wire as they are well aware people are now using it for vaping purposes.
I use rayon wick material. Graham CelluCotton Beauty Coil 500FT 100% Rayon Fibers 44060 is one place to find it easily. Local big box stores like Wal-Mart should carry this despite not seeing here locally. Beauty shops might have it.
Get yourself an ohm meter or multimeter too. Quit mooching your dad's.
For starting out in sub ohm coils I will defer to what the consensus here remains, try building coils that will read out around 0.60 ohms or a little higher. As I'm starting out I find I get ones that build to around 0.55 ohms. I am careful in using these although some may suggest a mechanical mod is not very careful. This is where knowing about batteries is useful. You need to ensure your batteries will handle the lower ohms and not short, over heat, vent on you.
Hope I'm at least being of some help. If not, seems there's plenty here who are also making a genuine effort to help. Be cautious with me. I am mathematically dyslexic at times. Maths for me are an adversity which I'm finding vaping to gradually help me to overcome. It takes time in learning to crawl. Then, one day you'll be running along and forget all about crawling.
Today I'm still using a 1.25 ohm coil in my RSST. I had to swap out the wick for a fresh one to try the free juice from a vendor. It was a little hassle to do *chuckles* but it was also fun in knowing I didn't need anything more than a pinch of fresh wick, a little patience and I was good to go again. Loving this coil at 9 watts, could crank it higher but I like a cool vape.
I use rayon wick material. Graham CelluCotton Beauty Coil 500FT 100% Rayon Fibers 44060 is one place to find it easily. Local big box stores like Wal-Mart should carry this despite not seeing here locally. Beauty shops might have it.
Get yourself an ohm meter or multimeter too. Quit mooching your dad's.
For starting out in sub ohm coils I will defer to what the consensus here remains, try building coils that will read out around 0.60 ohms or a little higher. As I'm starting out I find I get ones that build to around 0.55 ohms. I am careful in using these although some may suggest a mechanical mod is not very careful. This is where knowing about batteries is useful. You need to ensure your batteries will handle the lower ohms and not short, over heat, vent on you.Hope I'm at least being of some help. If not, seems there's plenty here who are also making a genuine effort to help.
Be cautious with me. I am mathematically dyslexic at times. Maths for me are an adversity which I'm finding vaping to gradually help me to overcome. It takes time in learning to crawl. Then, one day you'll be running along and forget all about crawling. Today I'm still using a 1.25 ohm coil in my RSST. I had to swap out the wick for a fresh one to try the free juice from a vendor.
It was a little hassle to do *chuckles* but it was also fun in knowing I didn't need anything more than a pinch of fresh wick, a little patience and I was good to go again. Loving this coil at 9 watts, could crank it higher but I like a cool vape.
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I used the venerable RSST for 2 years and still have 4 of them. There's nothing wrong with that little genny. It will serve you well. I always used mesh wicks in them. I don't recommend anything else. It's what they were made to use. If you find you can't roll a workable mesh wick, just get a dripper and try that instead.
Thank you for your reply, I've learned alot from your posts on the genny subforum. I'm a purest & will only use mesh. It's the hotspot top leg that's vexing..
Oh yeah, I know all about that. I use a dental pick to smooth that out, gently nudging the coil loops until they glow evenly while pulsing the coil. You don't want to overdo it and burn a hole in the wick, and it's best to use a battery without a full charge to do this or you can pop the coil. Sometimes I find that nudging the bottom loop upward gently will get the coil to glow more uniformly from top to bottom. It's often about how tightly your wick fits into your coil. You don't want it too tight, or too loose, that's just part of the art of building gennies right and something you get a feel for over time.
I on the other hand use rayon in the RSST.
Sometimes being different can be fun. Can understand using mesh. Not got there yet. Not knocking it and not saying I will not ever
use mesh.
I hope the OP got her beginner's question answered adequately.
Hehe. Looks like we turned it into an RSST thread.
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