Attack of the (Kayfun Mini V3) Clones!

[ccwaters]

If you can find one in stock these work quite well for the older ones.

$2.94 Kayfil Tool - stainless steel at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

 

[KTMRider]

Hi
I have many Kayfuns
Is there a way I can take the tank off without emptying it?
If there is I can't find a way
Thanks

Turn it upside down and unscrew the tank.

 

[OhTheAgony]

Put my SXK Mini V3 back on the shelf- was having flaky resistance issues (running high). Currently have two 4278000 performing very nicely along with my one authentic.

Crap, I was going to order the SXK version but just noticed it's discontinued. That must have been recent, last time I checked it was still in stock.

But you're saying that the cheaper one is just as good, and would that be the same one as this one you think? $11.08 Kayfun Mini V3 Styled RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer - 2ml / 304 stainless steel + glass at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

I'm also looking at these two:

$20.88 Kayfun V3 Plus 1.5 Styled RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer - 3.2ml / 316 stainless steel + glass / 22.5mm dia. at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

$15.67 Kayfun Lite Plus V3 Styled RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer - 4.5ml / stainless steel / 22mm diameter at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

Can someone quickly sum up the not so obvious differences between those perhaps?

Turn it upside down and unscrew the tank.

This is how I do it too.

Works with most of my tanks, although the Seprent mini has the tendency to come loose at the wrong end of the glass so you have to grip the glass & top together firmly while unscrewing it.


Also, I feel kinda stupid for getting that Evinrude now

 

[TrollDragon]

I'm also looking at these two:

$20.88 Kayfun V3 Plus 1.5 Styled RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer - 3.2ml / 316 stainless steel + glass / 22.5mm dia. at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

$15.67 Kayfun Lite Plus V3 Styled RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer - 4.5ml / stainless steel / 22mm diameter at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

Can someone quickly sum up the not so obvious differences between those perhaps?

The first one might have a poorly made base that will not allow it to fully close for filling. Many did and a replacement for mine is on the way. Another attempt as the first one never arrived.

The Second one is an older style Kafun Lite Plus with a confusing Chinese V3 branding, not even the same as the Kayfun Mini V3.

 

[ccwaters]

Turn it upside down and unscrew the tank.

I assume many Kayfuns would probably include Pre- KF4 can't do that on those.

 

[KTMRider]

I assume many Kayfuns would probably include Pre- KF4 can't do that on those.

Well, this is the Kayfun Mini v3 thread. The method I described works with the KF4, KF5 and KM3.

 

[ccwaters]

Yes, that is obvious, just making a statement.

 

[AstroTurf]

That's just how I understood the questioning member also.

And the fill tool listed was what I thought about too.

Jim


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[HootOwl]

All right guys n gals, fellow tootle puffers, I have a question on setting up this Kayfun Mini V3 (Tobeco) for temperature control. Ummmm, well, the question is, umm yeah, how to do that?!?!

After a couple years vaping, I had decided TC wasn't necessary or that I just didn't want to fool with it. But I ended up with a VW device that also had TC (vtc mini) and curiosity has gotten the better of me. Oh and there's all the claims of how great it is too.

For mouth to lung vaping, what builds are any of y'all using and enjoying on Mini V3?? I normally vape around 10 to 13 watts with 100%VG. In this Mini V3 I've had good results with 27 or 28 gauge Kanthal on 2.6mm ID or so, with KGD type Japanese organic cotton. Contact microcoil. I'm curious about Rayon also and may give that a try soon.

So now I have the VTC mini , a SMY SDNA75, and a DNA25 as my temp control devices Which type of wire and coil build and on which device for MTL vaping ? Thanks everyone for any suggestions in advance, and for allthe knowledge previously shared

 

[OhTheAgony]

The first one might have a poorly made base that will not allow it to fully close for filling. Many did and a replacement for mine is on the way. Another attempt as the first one never arrived.

The Second one is an older style Kafun Lite Plus with a confusing Chinese V3 branding, not even the same as the Kayfun Mini V3.

So no on both accounts I guess, lol

I think I wait until the mini V5 arrives before deciding what to buy, I'm starting to loose track of what's coming in already. I think I still have at least 3 RTAs in the mail on it's way to me but I'd have to check to be sure.

Well, this is the Kayfun Mini v3 thread. The method I described works with the KF4, KF5 and KM3.

It's even right there in the thread tittle, I was convinced this was a general Kayfun-clone thread until you posted that!

Why didn't someone tell us to get lost when we started posting all those V5s in here?

 

[AstroTurf]

Why didn't someone tell us to get lost when we started posting all those V5s in here?

KayFun love knows no bounds...


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[Jumpin' In...]

All right guys n gals, fellow tootle puffers, I have a question on setting up this Kayfun Mini V3 (Tobeco) for temperature control. Ummmm, well, the question is, umm yeah, how to do that?!?!

After a couple years vaping, I had decided TC wasn't necessary or that I just didn't want to fool with it. But I ended up with a VW device that also had TC (vtc mini) and curiosity has gotten the better of me. Oh and there's all the claims of how great it is too.

For mouth to lung vaping, what builds are any of y'all using and enjoying on Mini V3?? I normally vape around 10 to 13 watts with 100%VG. In this Mini V3 I've had good results with 27 or 28 gauge Kanthal on 2.6mm ID or so, with KGD type Japanese organic cotton. Contact microcoil. I'm curious about Rayon also and may give that a try soon.

So now I have the VTC mini , a SMY SDNA75, and a DNA25 as my temp control devices Which type of wire and coil build and on which device for MTL vaping ? Thanks everyone for any suggestions in advance, and for allthe knowledge previously shared

I've been running 28 ga. SS316L in TCR mode (0092) on an Evic VTC Mini or a Wisemec Vaporflask Lite with good results. 2.5mm ID spaced coil, 9 wraps (I think) that comes in at about 0.95 ohms, 380-440F depending on eliquid and what kind of vape I want at the moment.

Japanese organic cotton for wick - haven't had the opportunity to try rayon. Have to change the cotton in my Tobeco KMv3 fairly often. Think others have found the same. Not sure why, but it starts tasting funky after only a few tanks. Quicker than with other tanks.

Every so often my vape will get weak. Closing and reopening the juice flow usually does the trick. Don't ask me why.

Hope this helps.

How do you like your SMY SDNA75?

 

[Jumpin' In...]

Forgot to mention that IMO the stock SS setting on the Evic VTC Mini fires way too hot for 316L. Burns cotton too early. But I'm no expert, so YMMV. Some guys on youtube seem to like it that way.

 

[HootOwl]

Jumpin- that is almost exactly what I've tried on my vtc mini, and it vapes OK for a bit, then it gets weak and erratic. Didn't narrow down the problem yet though.... just figured I was building coils wrong. Tried contact and spaced 28ga SS316L on 2.6mm rod with ... organic cotton, from 0.8 to 1.0 ohm and all did about the same. Decent, then weak, then in between, you get the picture.

Some say for TC that spaced coils are definitely the way to go, some claim they can get contact coils to vape great. I've gotten to where I can make a really, really nice tight even heating contact microcoil with kanthal. I want it to work like that with SS and just use TC but something tells me its not quite going to work that way for me.

This SDNA75 is pretty nice though. Can't say if the TC works well or not since I can't figure out all that coil building, but the device feels very well built and has the nicest exterior finish of about anything I've ever held. I got the black one, it is like a rubbery smooth texture that feels great in the hand and feels like it will wear good and doesn't pick up fingerprints at all. Not sure if I like the fire button's feel- kinda soft or spongy but not too awful bad, others may like it that way. Nice small size and feel, but it is a lot heavier than I expected for single 18650

 

[KTMRider]

The biggest problem with contact coils with TP wire (Ni200, Ti, SS) is that it's too springy and you can't heat and compress it so it's much more of a hit or miss and mostly it's a miss. Yes, you can get a good contact coil but it's always a gamble until you vape it. That's why spaced coils are so popular with TP.

 

[HootOwl]

The biggest problem with contact coils with TP wire (Ni200, Ti, SS) is that it's too springy and you can't heat and compress it so it's much more of a hit or miss and mostly it's a miss. Yes, you can get a good contact coil but it's always a gamble until you vape it. That's why spaced coils are so popular with TP.

That being said- would you suggest one of those types of wire for said spaced coil over another ? And does any one material seem to perform better on certain devices/boards?

Are most people making these spaced TC coils just by hand wrapping, eyeballing the gaps while wrapping, then just mount it and vape? Im used to using kanthal to make 'tensioned' contact coils, then dry burn and squeeze to fine tune. If the wraps aren't touching, maybe the gaps dont have to be perfectly even to avoid hotspots..?.. You don't want to or need to dry burn with nickel at least, correct?

 

[KTMRider]

I've only used Ni200 (2 yrs) and recently SS (316l and 430). SS is definitely easier to work with but I have been getting some strange behavior that I've never experienced with Ni200. Most notably is harsh dry hits every once in a while. When it's working, it's better than Ni200 though. 430ss has a higher TCR so it's supposed to be more accurate but not easy to find. I got 200' of 28g 430ss from Ukamen. They ship fast. I have 26g 316L and not a fan of it.

PBusardo video'd a good technique that I've been using for Ni200 for the last 2 yrs. Wrap the wire tightly around whatever you normally use. Then stretch it out. When you compress it, there should be about 1-2mm of space between each coil. Very simple and fast.

From what I've read, you shouldn't dry burn Ni200 or SS.

 

[Jumpin' In...]

...I have 26g 316L and not a fan of it.

...

From what I've read, you shouldn't dry burn Ni200 or SS.

Really? I thought it was OK to heat the SS316L until a dull glow, but not so OK to go to a bright orange?

I've been dry burning on an iStick 30 at 5 watts - as low as that device can go. I pulse for a few seconds, rest for a couple and repeat until most of the coil has that dull glow. The dull glow usually starts at the center - where stuff burns off first - then progresses toward the outside as I do my routine.

I've also got some 26 ga. 316L that I haven't tried yet. That might have been a waste of $, as I'm so far satisfied with 28 ga.

 

[Jumpin' In...]

That being said- would you suggest one of those types of wire for said spaced coil over another ? And does any one material seem to perform better on certain devices/boards?

Are most people making these spaced TC coils just by hand wrapping, eyeballing the gaps while wrapping, then just mount it and vape? Im used to using kanthal to make 'tensioned' contact coils, then dry burn and squeeze to fine tune. If the wraps aren't touching, maybe the gaps dont have to be perfectly even to avoid hotspots..?.. You don't want to or need to dry burn with nickel at least, correct?

I make my spaced coils using the Busardo method referred to above, using a Coil Master jig.

I also saw a youtube vid where the guy wrapped a wire on a screwdriver spacing out the wire a little, then just compressed the coil while still on the screwdriver, and the spacing turned out fairly even. I'm guessing that the ID would be a smidgeon larger than what you start out with though.

 

[KTMRider]

Really? I thought it was OK to heat the SS316L until a dull glow, but not so OK to go to a bright orange?

I've been dry burning on an iStick 30 at 5 watts - as low as that device can go. I pulse for a few seconds, rest for a couple and repeat until most of the coil has that dull glow. The dull glow usually starts at the center - where stuff burns off first - then progresses toward the outside as I do my routine.

I've also got some 26 ga. 316L that I haven't tried yet. That might have been a waste of $, as I'm so far satisfied with 28 ga.

Someone posted a close up of SS after a dry burn and the surface flaked.

The reason I don't like the 26g 316L is that it retains heat too much and makes my atomizers really hot if I chain vape. I also didn't get a good, flavorful vape from it. When I switched to 28g 430ss, I got more flavor and chain vaping didn't heat up like the 26g.