I was going to try cutting a slit in the big SS tank and put a window in them but figured buying 2 of the Plus ones will be easier... Just hope they are made as nice as the 2ml ones.
Attack of the (Kayfun Mini V3) Clones!
- Thread starter KTMRider
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Great Thread..Great Info..Great Knowledgeable People..
Not much I can add..as I am the biggest rookie here..
@lauragal
I was using the Nautilus BVC's when I got the KM3 and have not looked back.. I had not built on any other deck, so for me, the KM3 is easy enough too learn on..
Make sure to clean and inspect thoroughly..
Probably most importantly, make sure you understand, as mentioned in previous posts, the first time you loosen the 510 screw to adjust the AFC the positive block will be loose and need to be tightened.
Double check the clearance of the negative coil leg and is clear of the positive block..(kinda a tight area to me).
Play around with the coil-wrapping site while you waiting..for me it always defaults back to 1.3mm dia. coil, which may explain your 15 wraps of 28g Kanthal.
Build your coil, check OHM's through each step (in-case of short), mounting to mod, do a dry-burn (before wicking) to burn off the nasty and check proper operation of the coil, check screw tightness again. wick-wet-enjoy...
IMHO: for wick to start out with you can't go wrong with the organic cotton's..
Read through this thread, a-lot of useful info when the KM3's started arriving.
Any Questions just ask and someone shall help
Not much I can add..as I am the biggest rookie here..
@lauragal
I was using the Nautilus BVC's when I got the KM3 and have not looked back.. I had not built on any other deck, so for me, the KM3 is easy enough too learn on..
Make sure to clean and inspect thoroughly..
Probably most importantly, make sure you understand, as mentioned in previous posts, the first time you loosen the 510 screw to adjust the AFC the positive block will be loose and need to be tightened.
Double check the clearance of the negative coil leg and is clear of the positive block..(kinda a tight area to me).
Play around with the coil-wrapping site while you waiting..for me it always defaults back to 1.3mm dia. coil, which may explain your 15 wraps of 28g Kanthal.
Build your coil, check OHM's through each step (in-case of short), mounting to mod, do a dry-burn (before wicking) to burn off the nasty and check proper operation of the coil, check screw tightness again. wick-wet-enjoy...
IMHO: for wick to start out with you can't go wrong with the organic cotton's..
Read through this thread, a-lot of useful info when the KM3's started arriving.
Any Questions just ask and someone shall help
Mine has started to gurgle slightly and producing a pretty wet vape which makes me cough sometimes. Does the plastic airflow grub helps fix that?
Tried wicking 3x and I'm pretty sure it's perfectly wicked, still does it after a while as well as the airflow opens up quite a bit during the day
Tried wicking 3x and I'm pretty sure it's perfectly wicked, still does it after a while as well as the airflow opens up quite a bit during the day
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Try covering 3 of the air holes and blow into the forth with the tank upside down. Might be a little condensation in it.
IDK about the grub..I took mine out.. but what ^^ricks said and/or maybe take out the AFC grub and clean shaft out and make sure you have good clearance from airflow hole to coil and no wick on top of the positive deck..
Is anyone having trouble trapping there leads? I am using 28g and the first build no problem but now its such a pain the leads give me a lot of trouble.
@Andrew Leigh .. I'm all thumbs sometimes and when it's giving me a problem.. I wrap it around, (clockwise always) and pinch the wrapped wires together with fine point tweezers, hold than tighten. The clockwise wrap will pull the wire into the screw and adjust the coil a needed after...hope that helps..
I believe its the screws that are the problem.One side grabs the wire ok the other just spits it out.I have to do a full wrap on that one.Also the direction in which you wrap the wire is important.I read somewhere that if you carefully file the underside of the screw head a little it helps.Thinner wire iseasiest.I use 28 g.
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My go-to coil for Kayfuns is 29g, 6/7 wraps, 2.5mm ID, 1.5Ω; 8-11 watts. I like my heat flux to be very bright green (150-200 mW/mm² ), generally. Heat flux is the measure of thermal output. Some juices, like tobaccos, taste better when warm; delicate flavors, like fruit, usually taste better a bit cooler.
When I use 28g Kanthal, I also use 7/6 wraps and I get a bit lower resistance (1.2-1.3Ω).
It's all good.
That's why I clean the wire with soap and water (or alcohol) and then I pulse the coil (to check the build and to get rid of any remaining impurities). But I don't torch anymore. Dr. Farsalinos is dead against it so I follow his advice.
I don't even pinch anymore, either--unless absolutely necessary. The coils coming off my Kuro coiler are almost perfect contact coils--I just pulse them a few times and brush them gently with a screwdriver if they don't glow uniformly. I learned that brushing technique from super_X_drifter and it works like a charm. I don't understand why, but it works for me.
You can also try running the wire around the screw so that it comes out heading in the opposite direction, then run it UNDER AND THEN OVER the drill bit or mandrel you're using to hold the coil in place - so that the wire is now facing back toward the subject screw. If you can hold the wire against the bit/mandrel, you can then use the bit/mandrel to keep tension on the wire while you screw it down. You could even make a full wrap around the bit/mandrel, but that gets a bit more fiddly.
Yep- I was just about to post the same thing- that's what I do. And of course, you need to have the deck screwed on to something like an ohm meter (what I use) to keep it steady.
Welcome my fellow NY'ER. Do yourself a huge favor.If this is your first time building.Buy an easy build deck to start with.The Kanger Subtank or even beter Top tank with the RBA .Being a relatively new vapor I can tell you this thing for me made the learning curve so much easier. The wires are easy to capture and fragile coils easier to place.Wicking is straight forward.Even though this tank is not really for tootle puffers it is a great way to get your feet wet and understand the way these things work.I certainly wouldn't have wanted this KM3 tank to be my first rebuildable ever. Authentic or clone.I am in the process of making a small review of this tank right now. There are also some great people right here with a wealth of knowledge and experience. They apparently like helping others.
Right... That mini deck is not the easiest, but it's doable. Ans since Lara already has the atty, I'm sure she can manage it. The second screw is always the harder one to install. Having said that, we all learned on Kayfun-like decks and we lived.
The K4 was the easiest deck for me--large and wide open.I also agree that that design has to go--the decks with channels guiding the wire are much better. Wrapping the legs around tiny screws is so annoying.
You're joking?... If not, he's a prominent cardiologist, researcher and e-cig advocate. He is also a member of this forum.
Dr Konstantinos Farsalinos » E-Cigarette Summit 2015
Konstantinos E Farsalinos - Publications
Evidence submitted to the FDA concerning electronic cigarettes
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