Attack of the (Kayfun Mini V3) Clones!

[Katya]

Ack! Science overload imminent...

Wt* is "heat flux"?

Heat flux is a good thing, just trust me. It's the measure of thermal output. If you look at your coil Steam Engine calculator, you'll find a little icon (to the right of the screen) that shows you your heat flux values. You want your coil to be just right--not too hot and not too cool. Like I said, I like mine green, 150-200 or so.

 

[ricks]

E-cigarette Research

From what he says, we should not be dry burning our coils. Interesting read. I need to look into this some more.

 

[Jumpin' In...]

That's why I clean the wire with soap and water (or alcohol) and then I pulse the coil (to check the build and to get rid of any remaining impurities). But I don't torch anymore. Dr. Farsalinos is dead against it so I follow his advice.

There were some guys claiming to be metallurgists who disputed that point (I forget where - Reddit?), but in any event, isn't dry burning the same thing? I don't torch anymore either, but I can see doing it if I were still mucking around with 32 Kanthal. (Well maybe not if I used the Coil Master jig...). I still dry-fire before re-wicking.

 

[Jumpin' In...]

Heat flux is a good thing, just trust me. It's the measure of thermal output. If you look at your coil Steam Engine calculator, you'll find a little icon (to the right of the screen) that shows you your heat flux values. You want your coil to be just right--not too hot and not too cool. Like I said, I like mine green, 150-200 or so.

Yeah I saw that in the calculator result section. Thanks, I'll keep an eye on it. Think my current build is around 148; I'm liking it. Thanks.

 

[tchavei]

That's why I clean the wire with soap and water (or alcohol) and then I pulse the coil (to check the build and to get rid of any remaining impurities). But I don't torch anymore. Dr. Farsalinos is dead against it so I follow his advice.

I lost some faith since the time he went ballistic on Ti and it's "molecules" when there are no molecules there and other rubbish like that.

I have no sympathy for anti vape people but I also don't like fanatic people on the other side that have to paint everything sweet and pink.

In a few decades the middle term will be most probably the right one.

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[Katya]

There were some guys claiming to be metallurgists who disputed that point (I forget where - Reddit?), but in any event, isn't dry burning the same thing? I don't torch anymore either, but I can see doing it if I were still mucking around with 32 Kanthal. (Well maybe not if I used the Coil Master jig...). I still dry-fire before re-wicking.

Oh yeah... There's a thread a mile long on the subject.

Anyway, I try not to overheat my dry Kanthal unnecessarily, so it's win-win for me. Skipping an unnecessary step. I still pulse the coil, though.

 

[Katya]

I lost some faith since the time he went ballistic on Ti and it's "molecules" when there are no molecules there and other rubbish like that.

I have no sympathy for anti vape people but I also don't like fanatic people on the other side that have to paint everything sweet and pink.

In a few decades the middle term will be most probably the right one.

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Right.

I do remember your posts from that infamous thread.

 

[tchavei]

Druckle is a Ti specialist and he pretty much explained the process on Ti at least.

My personal subjective and empirical opinion is that dry burning might not be the exact same thing as torching on specific materials like Ti for example.

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[Katya]

I'm not a metallurgist, so I just have to rely on other people's knowledge... @MacTechVpr is very knowledgeable on the subject and his posts eased my mind. At least, for the time being.

 

[Jumpin' In...]

Mine has started to gurgle slightly and producing a pretty wet vape which makes me cough sometimes. Does the plastic airflow grub helps fix that?

Tried wicking 3x and I'm pretty sure it's perfectly wicked, still does it after a while as well as the airflow opens up quite a bit during the day

That happened to me on a build I did with touching wraps. I did the same build, except with a spaced coil and the problem did not recurr. Not sure if they are related though - haven't experimented enough yet.

 

[tchavei]

Right.[emoji38]

I do remember your posts from that infamous thread.

At least someone remembers me[emoji14]
I fought for the Ti cause a long time. I then realised that it didn't matter. We all gonna die and most of us will go down by cancer, stroke or heart related issues. Sure one might have better chances with lung disease after switching to vaping but we're going under no matter what.

I rather spend my energy on more fun things in life.

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[Jumpin' In...]

At least someone remembers me[emoji14]
I fought for the Ti cause a long time. I then realised that it didn't matter. We all gonna die and most of us will go down by cancer, stroke or heart related issues. Sure one might have better chances with lung disease after switching to vaping but we're going under no matter what.

I rather spend my energy on more fun things in life.

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Now THAT was an uplifting post!



I think I vaguely remember that thread too, but I don't think I followed it to conclusion as I didn't have a mod with Ti capability at the time. I remember something about metal structures lining up differently when heat is applied post-coil as opposed to when heat is applied before winding the coils?

 

[Katdarling]

Screw trapping issues, my "specialty".

Here's a nifty lil fix:

Tootle Puffers, Part Three! (The Sequel of the Redux)

 

[Katya]

Very clever!

 

[tchavei]

Now THAT was an uplifting post!



I think I vaguely remember that thread too, but I don't think I followed it to conclusion as I didn't have a mod with Ti capability at the time. I remember something about metal structures lining up differently when heat is applied post-coil as opposed to when heat is applied before winding the coils?

Yeah and also because the primary source of Ti oxidation is oxygen... Internal or external. By torching it, the center of the flame is oxygen poor so it takes much longer to form the dreaded thick and flaky oxide layer. Do it by dry burning and you get it 10x faster (a lot of oxygen available around the coil).

It's just much easier to control the layer thickness by torching. From gold to purple blue is fine as the layer is extremely stable and can't be removed easily. Overdo it and you get a thick grey flaky layer.

Obviously there is no evidence that even that thick grey layer can be harmful but for peace sake, just get to blue and stop

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[sark666]

Anyone have an issue with a slight gurgly sound while vaping? I had issues with the oring on the bottom of the deck (prior to switching I wasn't getting air bubbles when opening the juice flow) fixed that but still get a slight gurgly vape. It never floods and vapes ok, but I can tell something is off. I removed the top cap center post oring and replaced that, but same thing. I'm back to my kfl plus's which I can build perfectly ever time. Just disappointed that my kfm v3 is sitting there collecting dust...

 

[ricks]

Anyone have an issue with a slight gurgly sound while vaping? I had issues with the oring on the bottom of the deck (prior to switching I wasn't getting air bubbles when opening the juice flow) fixed that but still get a slight gurgly vape. It never floods and vapes ok, but I can tell something is off. I removed the top cap center post oring and replaced that, but same thing. I'm back to my kfl plus's which I can build perfectly ever time. Just disappointed that my kfm v3 is sitting there collecting dust...

Have you tried covering 3 air holes and blowing in the forth with the tank upside down? Might be some condensation

 

[Swampus]

^^what he said, but fire the device at the same time...

 

[MacTechVpr]

Yeah and also because the primary source of Ti oxidation is oxygen... Internal or external. By torching it, the center of the flame is oxygen poor so it takes much longer to form the dreaded thick and flaky oxide layer. Do it by dry burning and you get it 10x faster (a lot of oxygen available around the coil).

It's just much easier to control the layer thickness by torching. From gold to purple blue is fine as the layer is extremely stable and can't be removed easily. Overdo it and you get a thick grey flaky layer.

Obviously there is no evidence that even that thick grey layer can be harmful but for peace sake, just get to blue and stop

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Thanks for your comments @tchavei. Thought I'd drop in here before things got too far along (thanks for the shout @Katya). Think I've been one of many major proponents of safe building methods for Kanthal on ECF for quite some time. So the thread you referred to @tchavei…The end of microcoils? | E-Cigarette Forum…was of some interest to me. Dr. Farsalinos' suggestion that we shouldn't torch or dry burn wires implicated Kanthal along with other more recently popular wire types. Many objected to both generalizations which I now believe was unintentional. I agree with one, strongly disagree with the other.

Tensioned Micro Coil, Subtank Mni Base

• MacTechVpr
• Nov 11, 2015
• mactechvpr microcoil tensioned

25x7 @2.7778 mm = 0.805Ω 22.9W (5.2A) 170 mW/mm²

Kanthal is resistance wire intended for use as a vaporizing element. It heats air we breath in an assortment of applications from space heaters to toasters, ovens, heat pumps…the list is long. It was conceived and intended to be oxidized as it exudes an alumina oxide layer (ceramic) which insulates the wire against ferric corrosion. For us that's excellent news as it isolates the juice media we vape from the underlying metals. But since the advent of the contact microcoil even more good news is that this isolating layer is also an insulating barrier which converts contacting wires into insulated wires (not a short). The temperatures necessary are quite lower (<1400F) than those used in torching to form coils (>1800F and higher) which actually may compromise the material's surface (the very layers we're trying to create). As @tchavei mentioned oxidizing layers can be observed with low voltage pulses through several transitions of color. Contact coils so prepared are marvelously stable, powerful and run cooler (vaporizing juice at a higher rate by letting off power to liquid more effectively due to their more uniform temperature).

Tehnsioned Contact Micro Coil, MacTechVpr

• MacTechVpr
• Jun 25, 2015
• coil contact tensioned

Contact coils are a very easy and dependable wind to make and insulating them a breeze with a proper approach to consistency and by developing an understanding of how to effectively develop the oxidation. I've been for a number of years an advocate against torching Kanthal then as it's really not needed. Happen to have a little experience accomplishing this and I'm pleased to assist all I can help get to a great vape asap. Look me up or my posts. Have a go.

Good luck.

 

[Katya]

Look me up or my posts. Have a go.

I have been following your posts on the subject for quite some time, as you know!

And thanks for stopping by!