My pleasure. Always glad to help.
Good luck.
Me Katt, or the other Katt? Or both!![]()
The next time you re-wick, just rinse the whole deck in very warm water and blow straight into the top air hole below the coil. You can also blow into the side air intakes. You just managed to get some juice trapped in there. Now if this keeps happening you'll need to re-check your o-rings, as you may have a vacuum issue. I'm a KFL enthusiast too. Remember the learning curve when you first started building them? These take some time too- I've found that not everything that works with my KFL translates well to this KFMV3.Anyone have an issue with a slight gurgly sound while vaping? I had issues with the oring on the bottom of the deck (prior to switching I wasn't getting air bubbles when opening the juice flow) fixed that but still get a slight gurgly vape. It never floods and vapes ok, but I can tell something is off. I removed the top cap center post oring and replaced that, but same thing. I'm back to my kfl plus's which I can build perfectly ever time. Just disappointed that my kfm v3 is sitting there collecting dust...
When you say "contact coils" though, aren't you referring to "tensioned" micro/macro/mega coils? Do the benefits of the "insulating layer" also apply to non-tensioned micro/macro/mega coils such as those made with a Kuro Coil or Coil Master jigs - or for that matter to spaced coils?Thanks for your comments @tchavei. Thought I'd drop in here before things got too far along (thanks for the shout @Katya). Think I've been one of many major proponents of safe building methods for Kanthal on ECF for quite some time. So the thread you referred to @tchavei…The end of microcoils? | E-Cigarette Forum…was of some interest to me. Dr. Farsalinos' suggestion that we shouldn't torch or dry burn wires implicated Kanthal along with other more recently popular wire types. Many objected to both generalizations which I now believe was unintentional. I agree with one, strongly disagree with the other.
Tensioned Micro Coil, Subtank Mni Base
25x7 @2.7778 mm = 0.805Ω 22.9W (5.2A) 170 mW/mm²
Kanthal is resistance wire intended for use as a vaporizing element. It heats air we breath in an assortment of applications from space heaters to toasters, ovens, heat pumps…the list is long. It was conceived and intended to be oxidized as it exudes an alumina oxide layer (ceramic) which insulates the wire against ferric corrosion. For us that's excellent news as it isolates the juice media we vape from the underlying metals. But since the advent of the contact microcoil even more good news is that this isolating layer is also an insulating barrier which converts contacting wires into insulated wires (not a short). The temperatures necessary are quite lower (<1400F) than those used in torching to form coils (>1800F and higher) which actually may compromise the material's surface (the very layers we're trying to create). As @tchavei mentioned oxidizing layers can be observed with low voltage pulses through several transitions of color. Contact coils so prepared are marvelously stable, powerful and run cooler (vaporizing juice at a higher rate by letting off power to liquid more effectively due to their more uniform temperature).
Contact coils are a very easy and dependable wind to make and insulating them a breeze with a proper approach to consistency and by developing an understanding of how to effectively develop the oxidation. I've been for a number of years an advocate against torching Kanthal then as it's really not needed. Happen to have a little experience accomplishing this and I'm pleased to assist all I can help get to a great vape asap. Look me up or my posts. Have a go.
Good luck.![]()
I think you can track it thru FT website. Just check your order shipped page.Not to go too far OT, but a quick question re FastTech ordering: How do you track an e-packet order?
I think he was abused or neglected so he had some issues. Also, his tail was broken (you could see an unnatural bend/dent on his tail) but it's not as noticeable now.
My go-to coil for Kayfuns is 29g, 6/7 wraps, 2.5mm ID, 1.5Ω; 8-11 watts. I like my heat flux to be very bright green (150-200 mW/mm² ), generally. Heat flux is the measure of thermal output. Some juices, like tobaccos, taste better when warm; delicate flavors, like fruit, usually taste better a bit cooler.
When I use 28g Kanthal, I also use 7/6 wraps and I get a bit lower resistance (1.2-1.3Ω).
It's all good.
USPS app. Just copy the tracking number.
It'll stay in China for a bit. Once it says accepted into China. Should be on the way. Depending on where you live it'll be held up at the ISC around the US.
I think you can track it thru FT website. Just check your order shipped page.
Not to go too far OT, but a quick question re FastTech ordering: How do you track an e-packet order?
What PG/VG and mg do you vape at 1.5 ohm?