Have you tried other sizes? I have just under 3mm coils on both mine and I'm thinking of going back to 2.5
Attack of the (Kayfun Mini V3) Clones!
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This metal is the same as the authentic... You're not putting too much pressure on it to hurt it. But also be careful to not over tighten it. This is basically a hollow tube we are tightening.
I was afraid to use screwdriver for bending the shroud/ring part.....China cheap metal ya know... but sounds like you are already one step ahead of me on all that..if not three
It's the same type of coating on my other black atomizers which is pretty good and durable. It doesn't cover the insides or threads.
Um... it's 316ss, not some unknown metal.
I was afraid to use screwdriver for bending the shroud/ring part.....China cheap metal ya know... but sounds like you are already one step ahead of me on all that..if not three
I've tested it on a Vaporshark DNA200 and DNA40, Hana v200 (currently on it now) and ERM+ DNA200. I have a kanthal build that should be around 1.4Ω but it's reading 1.47Ω to 1.51Ω after every draw. It has gone as low as 1.41Ω and as high as 1.53Ω so far. Every once in a while, it will just say "Check Atomizer."
No issues with the afc screw on the 3 I have.
How often are you folks changing out your wicks? Using organic cotton I have to rewick every two - three days.
I change my wick every other day, but I use NET juice and it gunks up faster than most e-juices. But it is so easy to do a quick dry burn and new wick it really doesn't bother me to change it regularly.
SS is still metal and will rust.
I use rayon and usually re-wick every 30-40ml or so. 8-10 refills on most of my tanks. I have 8 mods and atomizers I rotate thru so giving the amount of juice is more accurate than time.
I have to try Rayon in these. I keep saying this about Ekowool also. One of these days.
@ricks .. I have tried others, but remember I don't know what I'm doing so it's all trial and error 
MTL only, all around 1.5 +/- ohms at 3.7-4v. 28g kanthal..
did 2.5 and 3 mm spaced = to much popping going on for me, and think the 2.5 was the better of the two for flavor and noise. 3mm maybe too much unused wick to air flow.
2.5 and 2mm contact = quiets down and good flavor.
For now IMO.. I think the 2mm fits nicely with the air flow hole and enough wick for good vapor/flavor the way I hit it.
Wicking been using cotton bacon, cause that's what LV had when I ordered my wire and so far it's pretty good from the start, no weird tastes at all.
Also got 500' rayon to try after I get everything else figure out first, I didn't like it on the first try, but that could be from something else and not the rayon.
I got other cottons coming in the mail to try.
MTL only, all around 1.5 +/- ohms at 3.7-4v. 28g kanthal..
did 2.5 and 3 mm spaced = to much popping going on for me, and think the 2.5 was the better of the two for flavor and noise. 3mm maybe too much unused wick to air flow.
2.5 and 2mm contact = quiets down and good flavor.
For now IMO.. I think the 2mm fits nicely with the air flow hole and enough wick for good vapor/flavor the way I hit it.
Wicking been using cotton bacon, cause that's what LV had when I ordered my wire and so far it's pretty good from the start, no weird tastes at all.
Also got 500' rayon to try after I get everything else figure out first, I didn't like it on the first try, but that could be from something else and not the rayon.
I got other cottons coming in the mail to try.
I bought a 500' box last year and I still have about 470' because I gave away about 28'. I probably used closer to 1' of rayon in the past year.
Someone from here gave me some Rayon and it looks like I didn't even put a dent in the bag. 500' must last several lifetimes for vaping.
Mine (first one poping up at FT) has the same resistance (0.26) since I built it (3 weeks already?). The airscrew hasn't moved since I originally assembled it. Only downsides for me are:
1. Size (too tall)
2. Capacity (not bad. Could be 3ml)
3. Center post has to be tighten down good with a something lining up the positive block on top.
That's about it.
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1. Size (too tall)
2. Capacity (not bad. Could be 3ml)
3. Center post has to be tighten down good with a something lining up the positive block on top.
That's about it.
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It's about 10mm shorter than the KFv4.
I got one of each of these:
$3.79 Replacement Tank for Kayfun Mini V3 RTA Atomizers - 4.2ml / 316 stainless steel at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
$3.75 Replacement Tank for Kayfun Mini V3 RTA Atomizers - 3.8ml / 316 stainless steel at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
I'm not a fan of all steel tanks but with TP, it's ok.
I got one of each of these:
$3.79 Replacement Tank for Kayfun Mini V3 RTA Atomizers - 4.2ml / 316 stainless steel at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
$3.75 Replacement Tank for Kayfun Mini V3 RTA Atomizers - 3.8ml / 316 stainless steel at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
I'm not a fan of all steel tanks but with TP, it's ok.
But at least 15-20mm longer than an erlprinz Nano (3ml capacity)
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I've had several ECFers help me immensely with some PIFs. One of those was a 5x7" bubblewrap envelope full of Rayon. That was maybe 10 months ago. I've barely made a dent in it and I use it all the time.
Bruce in Ocala, Fl
notch coils are on fasttech but only as preorder.
the legs are made for velocity style atomizers but they can be straighten.
height: 9mm
width: 5mm
depth: 5mm
resistance: 0.25 ohm
Odoslané z SM-N910F pomocou Tapatalku
the legs are made for velocity style atomizers but they can be straighten.
height: 9mm
width: 5mm
depth: 5mm
resistance: 0.25 ohm
Odoslané z SM-N910F pomocou Tapatalku
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Yeah I was thinking that SS can rust, but that it usually DOESN'T after just an overnight soak in lukewarm water. Just made me wonder what grade or kind of true stainless would do that....
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