Attack of the (Kayfun Mini V3) Clones!

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sark666

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Got mine from 3fvape on friday. Took 3 weeks to canada. I asked earlier about the paperclip, but I see why it's needed. Nice trick to keep the post in place while tightening. Usually I do an overnight rubbing alcohol soak but that wasn't good enough for this. Boiling water with dish soap twice, then boiling water on its own twice. Put a build on and working great.

I bought the metal tank as well just to have, but I feel the same about not being able to see my juice. But I thought I'd have it as a backup and if I ever get into temp control, then there's no worries about burning. Otherwise, ya I don't know how people know when to refill with an all metal setup.

Edit: I do two full turns when using and it's vaping fine, no leaks or anything, but I noticed there's a bit of a wobble to the tank. Is that normal for two turns? I know I'm doing exactly two because the 3fvape has the logo for reference.
 
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Kyi

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I'm using a 2.5mm coil.. or whatever the red colored #2 Kuro koiler thingy is. I never really count the amount of wraps I do.. maybe I should start doing that, but I kinda just look at it to see how long it is to decide when to stop. After I fix the coil onto the deck, I do the tweezer thing and squeeze the coil together, but THEN, I use the pliers to loosen them a little. Like, I pull on each side of the coil until there is a tiny bit of space between every wrap. I am not sure if this helps or not, it's just something I've been trying to see if it improves my vape.

I feel like my main issue is not knowing how tight the wick should be, and maybe proper fluffing and wick length. I typically try to get my wick a little shorter than the bottom of the deck, so it's not touching it, but slightly above it. I fluff out my wicks by blowing on it and spreading it around with my fingers.

And maybe this is the issue.. someone tell me if it is. I usually take a piece of KGD and put it through my coil, but instead of trying to get the "right" amount of wick, I just keep sliding the wick back and forth through the coil until it gets skinnier and skinnier, until I feel like it's the right amount of tightness. Is it better to just try to get the right thickness with the cut instead of sliding it around until it thins out? I have my wick somewhat snug, but can easily slide through the coil with no resistance (as in it tugs on the coil and can cause the mod to move). I feel like my current wicks are a lot looser than I did them before, because I would always get dry, muted hits in the past (not on this tank but other tanks). So I figure I need to get more loose with my wicks, and usually no dry hits so I know thats working, but I only occasionally make a build that is JUST right. Other times it's good enough, but I don't know how to get it consistent to where I can get a perfect build for my sweet spot almost every build. Bah.. sorry, I'm rambling. I have like 10 RTAs that I've acquired over time, and the Kayfun types are the only ones that I use, as they're the only ones I've been able to get a decent build in. My Goblin mini... hahahaha... it's so cute. Too bad I never use it since I cannot seem to get a decent build in it for the life of me. My Subtank mini hits already, but I also have very inconsistent builds on it. I need help.
 
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Swampus

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@Kyi I am far from knowing what I am doing..but IMO you really should count your wraps for consistency. and the I try to get cotton wick close to what I think I need, pull it thru til I get a small amount of resistance, only pull it back and forth to ensure same at both ends of the coil. If the wick is moving the coil, maybe it's a tad to much.
Not really sure what you mean by pulling back and forth to thin the wick, maybe that is good or maybe it is just tearing the fiber apart (I'm not sure)..
I put an angle cut on the ends so the longest ends do just make contact with the deck, but not to block the juice holes.
Hope that helps :)
 

KenD

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@Kyi I am far from knowing what I am doing..but IMO you really should count your wraps for consistency. and the I try to get cotton wick close to what I think I need, pull it thru til I get a small amount of resistance, only pull it back and forth to ensure same at both ends of the coil. If the wick is moving the coil, maybe it's a tad to much.
Not really sure what you mean by pulling back and forth to thin the wick, maybe that is good or maybe it is just tearing the fiber apart (I'm not sure)..
I put an angle cut on the ends so the longest ends do just make contact with the deck, but not to block the juice holes.
Hope that helps :)
With a single coil on a regulated mod there's really no great need to count the wraps. In fact, I'd say that it's probably better to just eye it so you'll get the best coverage and surface area.

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk
 

magicmyst

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That's why I make separate orders for everything. I have 5 orders right now. 2 have shipped. I learned my lesson with FT.
Thanks for this tip! I have 4 items ordered separately from Fasttech on 4/11/16. The 4278000 is already in NY. Everything else is still in Beijing.
 

stvn77

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nice fit lol
 

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Exchaner

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I just tried this new tank, and the flavor is on par with the kayfun nano and the 5Pawns. It lacks a bit in throat hit - as would be expected - given the taller chimney. It also lacks that "sizzling" vape that I am used to. So glad though that annoying whistle is gone. It is one of the quietest tanks I have tried.

All together, I'd say it is better than KFL, but not better than the nano.
 
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ricks

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ricks

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Have you taken them all apart to see if there is anything out of the ordinary? Maybe one of the plastic things in the center post or too much liquid getting down the air inlet? I have no idea with this. I think that I would start with taking it all apart and hope to find something. There has to be an explanation why this is happening.
 

crss

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    Is anyone else getting jumping resistances on their KM3? My black one is barely useable with kanthal only and now my silver ones are jumping from .09Ω to .17Ω and then back to .10Ω.

    I have heard of small arcing from the insulator under the 510 block on base. Also the clone 510 pin would be suspect. I broke my clone 510 pin during a rebuild. The oem 510 pin fit in my FT clone, cost more then i paid for the atty. I have zero ohm changes with the oem 510 pin installed. Ahh, also put a steam tuners top cap/ drip tip combo on it. Great little atty, now.
     
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