Unless your screws are reverse threaded the wire should go around them clockwise.If not it will be harder for them to be "captured".
That was a bit too much rayon but they're going down. 28g Ni200, 3mm ID.It's not exactly clear from the picture. Is the leg going straight up or sideways? What gauge is the wire and the ID?
This might be a better pic (from a KFv4 but same build)Do you have your wires coming down to the screws from the top or the other way?
I have 2 silver ones from Focalecig and a black one from FT. The black one can't hold a resistance and almost usable with kanthal only. It only jumps about .05Ω now. The top tank parts on all 3 wobble when the juice control is open. There is much less wiggle with the Tobeco. The deck screws look to be machined to be flat to capture wire better. The o-rings are smooth w/o any lube. I put a drop of juice on them before putting the tank on and it's even smoother now. I only cleaned one of them but it didn't have too much machine oil and no metal shavings were found anywhere (and I really look for them). The airflow post is tight and the afc screw moves easily. Tobeco did a great job with this KM3.Lol. Sounds like I should have ordered 2 more of those rather than the fasttech ones. Why do you think they are the best? I havent gotten my FT ones yet.
That was a bit too much rayon but they're going down. 28g Ni200, 3mm ID.
This might be a better pic (from a KFv4 but same build)
![]()
I just noticed the diagrams in your post, Katya. I thought ricks was the first to post them. To me the coils in the photographs look like the coils labeled "left hand" in the diagram. I make mine like the ones in the photographs - which I rather call 'clockwise' coils. Can't figure out why you'd call them "left hand" or "right hand' in the diagram.Exchaner, look at those pictures--those are the best ones I could find to show you a properly built and positioned Kayfun-style coil. The legs should come out straight from the coil right under the screw. Your legs need to be short! The shorter the better. Don't flip anything upside down and don't let the leg cross over the air hole. And try a smaller ID coil--2-2.5 mm is just right for this small Kayfun.
![]()
![]()
Also, make sure you build a correct coil. Kayfuns take a right-handed coil.
![]()
Yes, but it is also "left hand" according to the diagram that you (and Katya) posted earlier.Isn't that a clock-wise wrap???
Thanks for the detail.That was a bit too much rayon but they're going down. 28g Ni200, 3mm ID.
This might be a better pic (from a KFv4 but same build)
![]()
I have 2 silver ones from Focalecig and a black one from FT. The black one can't hold a resistance and almost usable with kanthal only. It only jumps about .05Ω now. The top tank parts on all 3 wobble when the juice control is open. There is much less wiggle with the Tobeco. The deck screws look to be machined to be flat to capture wire better. The o-rings are smooth w/o any lube. I put a drop of juice on them before putting the tank on and it's even smoother now. I only cleaned one of them but it didn't have too much machine oil and no metal shavings were found anywhere (and I really look for them). The airflow post is tight and the afc screw moves easily. Tobeco did a great job with this KM3.
Not true. The coils are wound in different directions. When looking at the coils from the side, one will be wound clockwise, the other counter-clockwise.Correct me if I am wrong, but all you have to do is turn one of them around by 180 degrees, and you basically will have identical coils. The loops will go in the same direction, and the legs come out on opposite directions...
No, it will still be different. This is CrAzY coil talk today... LoL Vinny has some nice coilsCorrect me if I am wrong, but all you have to do is turn one of them around by 180 degrees, and you basically will have identical coils. The loops will go in the same direction, and the legs come out on opposite directions...
Put it another way. If you turn only the "right hand" side of the diagram upside down, that coil will look exactly the same as it did before you turned it upside down - except that the words will be on top and upside down.Correct me if I am wrong, but all you have to do is turn one of them around by 180 degrees, and you basically will have identical coils. The loops will go in the same direction, and the legs come out on opposite directions...
Can't wait for the K5 clones. Looks like a nice air control.
I was thinking the same. If it's as good as it looks, I'll probably get an authentic. The KF4 was pretty good but having to physically damage the center post to get a solid resistance held me back. The KM3's capacity is too small and that's what held me back. Now that all the public beta testing is done, the K5 looks like the one to get.![]()
Even earlier than I predicted! Nice, SM! 3.2mm airhole? Hmmm... If this is as good as it looks, I might even get an original. Love the new deck! With the FDA prohibitionists breathing down our necks...
You may have to - if there isn't enough time for the clones to come out. Does look nice. No wonder I could get a K4 clone for $7.82. Heh.![]()
Even earlier than I predicted! Nice, SM! 3.2mm airhole? Hmmm... If this is as good as it looks, I might even get an original. Love the new deck! With the FDA prohibitionists breathing down our necks...