Attack of the (Kayfun v4) Clones!

[dwcraig1]

I've been re-wicking after each tank and the rayon is always burnt inside the coil and I'm only vaping at 11w. Might be my wick or my coil but that never happened with TP.

There was some talk about the holes in the chimney not having the holes for the liquid drilled through well. My 1st build was silica and I vaped quite a few tanks with it never dry burning it, when I removed it it looked really good like maybe what one would look like after half a tank. A well fed coil stays cleaner much longer than a starved one. Maybe check them holes next time your into it.

 

[Vappa]

Any reviews on the Ehpro clone?

Although i cannot compare it to the original, the EHPRO V4 has smooth threads, does not leak and vapes like a charm. I see only one difference compared to the drawings of the original: the nut and teflon ring where the 510 screw goes into, cannot be removed. This means that the last parts of the base cannot be separated from each other (the 510 connection part from the turning part under the juice control. It seems that this is different in the EHPRO V4 from the original one. The result is that you cannot change that part so the V4 can be flush mounted on for example a Provari etc. For me that is not a big problem. And maybe only a few of them have this problem (several people mentioned it on the Dutch forum though).
{ From the V4 drawing i'm referring to parts #10 and #11 not getting out of it, preventing me from reaching part #9}

The other thing is that the EHPRO contains machine-oil, or at least the smell of it, more than any other clones i bought. So a thorough clean of all parts of the V4 is very recommended. I rinsed it 3 times and still could taste it. But after 2 tanks of juice it was gone completely

Other than that, this EHPRO Kayfun V4 clone is a very good device. I like it and am happy i bought it.

 

[runebinder]

Although i cannot compare it to the original, the EHPRO V4 has smooth threads, does not leak and vapes like a charm. I see only one difference compared to the drawings of the original: the nut and teflon ring where the 510 screw goes into, cannot be removed. This means that the last parts of the base cannot be separated from each other (the 510 connection part from the turning part under the juice control. It seems that this is different in the EHPRO V4 from the original one. The result is that you cannot change that part so the V4 can be flush mounted on for example a Provari etc. For me that is not a big problem. And maybe only a few of them have this problem (several people mentioned it on the Dutch forum though).
{ From the V4 drawing i'm referring to parts #10 and #11 not getting out of it, preventing me from reaching part #9}

The other thing is that the EHPRO contains machine-oil, or at least the smell of it, more than any other clones i bought. So a thorough clean of all parts of the V4 is very recommended. I rinsed it 3 times and still could taste it. But after 2 tanks of juice it was gone completely

Other than that, this EHPRO Kayfun V4 clone is a very good device. I like it and am happy i bought it.

On your EHPRO is the top nut (part #38), chamfered on the threading part like the original or round?

 

[Vappa]

No, it's not chamfered.

 

[cobaltxblue]

I think that's the problem with it. It's tight and my lfc does not want to turn. I'm afraid if I loosen it then #3 will be loose like it became before.

Just make sure to not use it outside here on Wednesday. They just updated the "high" to 0.
I can just see the story line now- "A local man froze his lips off today while vaping his Kayfun v4 outside."

 

[Circa Survivor]

Just make sure to not use it outside here on Wednesday. They just updated the "high" to 0.
I can just see the story line now- "A local man froze his lips off today while vaping his Kayfun v4 outside."

LOL ya. I woke up this morning and looked outside thinking "Well, it looks kinda nice outside," but then I looked at the temp and it was 0 but the "feel like" temp is -13. Damn I hate winter xD

 

[cobaltxblue]

LOL ya. I woke up this morning and looked outside thinking "Well, it looks kinda nice outside," but then I looked at the temp and it was 0 but the "feel like" temp is -13. Damn I hate winter xD

EXACTLY! I am looking outside and trying to convince myself that there is not that much snow on the sidewalks. It is not working, so I will end up shoveling. Just not until the windchill has improved from this damn -22.

 

[VapinWolf]

The SZEaster has the chamfered top nut. Just filled my 4th tank, juice control is getting easier to turn. Not quite smooth but almost. Had one nasty hit in Wal-Mart yesterday after carrying it in my pocket awhile. So far it has been a great device.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[runebinder]

No, it's not chamfered.

Cheers, I was curious if it was the same with all the EHPRO clones or whether mine had something not right.

 

[2legsshrt]

I washed mine with dishwashing liquid and hot tap water. I let it soak for about 5 mins and it was clean.




If you like the design, you buy the authentic to show support for the designers and not just the clone makers. But everyone has their own opinions on this. If it worked with ni200, I'd buy an authentic. For now, it's on a backup mod (VS DNA 30) as I prefer ni200 much better.

Well the support is is. I heard they made 10,000 first run thats about 9mil. What the hell is taking so long with the second run. Maybe they will come up with a fix for the NI200 problems. That is if it isn't cloned before they do.

 

[ricks]

Whats with this ni200 wire I keep hearing about?

 

[Steamer861]

Ni200 is used with a DNA40 in Temp control mode
it'a pure nickel wire

Whats with this ni200 wire I keep hearing about?

 

[ricks]

Ni200 is used with a DNA40 in Temp control mode
it'a pure nickel wire

Whats the difference? Can it be used like we use kanthal?

 

[dwcraig1]

Just got done building another Hana "style" DNA 40, still vaping on my K4 with nickel and no spring (got sleeve), still 0.11Ω, has never changed on 3 mods in 3 days.
I am waiting to hear some more from Circa, let me know.

 

[KTMRider]

Just got done building another Hana "style" DNA 40, still vaping on my K4 with nickel and no spring (got sleeve), still 0.11Ω, has never changed on 3 mods in 3 days.
I am waiting to hear some more from Circa, let me know.

Are you getting any juice leaking into the chamber where the brass sleeve is? I had to change o-ring (#16 in the diagram) for a better seal. Seems to be working ok for now.

 

[nelsonm64]

Whats the difference? Can it be used like we use kanthal?

no, it's only good for temp control builds or, as non resistance wire for when you need non resistance legs on your build like on an Ithaka, Diver etc.

 

[dwcraig1]

Are you getting any juice leaking into the chamber where the brass sleeve is? I had to change o-ring (#16 in the diagram) for a better seal. Seems to be working ok for now.

No but why, the spring or lack of it isn't going to affect leakage.
It is wet in there but it has never leaked enough to leak to the outside. This one is authentic, should have two clones arriving on Monday, one FT like yours and a Amod

Sometimes I think I read too fast, it's probably the only thing I do fast any more except spend money. I mis-interpreted your post

 

[dwcraig1]

I have a fix in mind for those clones that have the juice cotrol get tight when #9 screw is tightened but it is un-tried presently.

 

[Steamer861]

Like nelsonm64 said it'a only for Temp control mode in a DNA40 It's really soft and hard to work with

Whats the difference? Can it be used like we use kanthal?

 

[runebinder]

Whats the difference? Can it be used like we use kanthal?

It's softer and springier than Kanthal so can be a bit trickier to work with at first (soon get used to it). The resistance is roughly 1/10th in comparison so a coil build (diameter and number of wraps), that'd be 1.2 Ohms with Kanthal is 0.12 Ohms with Nickel. I don't torch or pulse Nickel and have heard it's a bad idea to do so, also tend to leave even spaces between the coils whereas with Kanthal I tend to compress my micro coils so they're touching.

It's really nice stuff, with the temp control I don't get any dry or burnt hits as I have my temp set to 410F and the DNA40 board won't let the coil get hotter than that. Also means the liquid won't breakdown into any nasties like formaldehyde.

Short watch: