Attack of the (Kayfun v4) Clones!

[VaPreis]

Ordered two Tobeccos from Vapor Range on Sunday and they showed up here today. Both boxes had the white dot and each one is the matte finish. For $9.95 a piece, with free shipping my only regret is that I only ordered 2

I ordered one on Saturday, and the shipping status has yet to change from "Shipping Label Created".

 

[Katya]

I ordered one on Saturday, and the shipping status has yet to change from "Shipping Label Created".

Don't worry. Mine was stuck on shipping label created for two days--and then changed to delivered this morning.

 

[VaPreis]

Don't worry. Mine was stuck on shipping label created for two days--and then changed to delivered this morning.

Excellent. I've never gotten over being impatient with my vape mail.

 

[ricks]

On my 2 KF4's, that I've had for a few months now, I have not taken the base apart since the initial cleaning. I simply blast water into the holes and blow them out with my compressor. Someday I'll take it apart just to see what the spring looks like.

 

[Katya]

Now he tells me...

I got it to work on the first try. Simple build--29 g kanthal, 2.4 ID, 1.8Ω TMC (I prefer 1.6, but I was flustered and must have overwound my coil), KGD.

What were they thinking? I don't know how anybody can get this thing to work without watching a bunch of YouTube videos and/or with no support from na e-cig forum or helpful B&M staff... Way over engineered. Don't like the barrel shape--why couldn't they make all different configurations simpler? Just replace PC tank with glass or stainless steel? And that AFC??? Really? I need to have a screwdriver on me if I want a bit more or less air? And I can't see that stupid screw inside. Geez... The worst idea ever, SvoeMesto! On the other hand, maybe I won't have to adjust it ever again.

Having said that, once I finally put everything together and filled the tank (that wasn't all that easy either)--sheer bliss. Honestly. This is the best atty I've ever used. The vape is smooth, quiet and oh so flavorful. I had no idea that my Raspberry White Tea from Ahlusion had that nuance and depth of flavor--I can taste the white tea and the juicy raspberries in perfect harmony.

I'm on my second tank; I only put 2 ml or so in the first one--I was afraid of leaks and other malfunctions, but they didn't materialize yet. The flavor is actually improving as the cotton is breaking in.

One more question: has anyone tried replacing the screws on the deck? Fat Daddy sells those big fat screws than can be tightened by hand. Any thoughts? I've never tried them.

SHOP - FatDaddyVapes.com - Home of the best vape tweaks and replacement hardware.

"Kayfun Screws - Knurled M1.6
Put the "fun" back on your Kay. Precision CNC machined so that your threads do not get stripped.
Note: Due to higher manufacturing cost because of its size, we can only include 6 pieces per set."

Below are their plain Kayfun post screws. Are they any better than those that came with our Tobeco clone?

Thanks a million for all the help and happy vaping!

 

[Grendel6.5]

These are much better. I have both. I bought the 1.6x4mm ones. 18-8 Stainless Steel Machine Screw, Plain Finish, Cheese Head, Slotted Drive, Meets DIN 84, Right Hand Threads, Metric: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

 

[Grendel6.5]

Now he tells me...

I got it to work on the first try. Simple build--29 g kanthal, 2.4 ID, 1.8Ω TMC (I prefer 1.6, but I was flustered and must have overwound my coil), KGD.

What were they thinking? [emoji38] I don't know how anybody can get this thing to work without watching a bunch of YouTube videos and/or with no support from na e-cig forum or helpful B&M staff... Way over engineered. Don't like the barrel shape--why couldn't they make all different configurations simpler? Just replace PC tank with glass or stainless steel? And that AFC??? Really? I need to have a screwdriver on me if I want a bit more or less air? And I can't see that stupid screw inside. Geez... The worst idea ever, SvoeMesto! On the other hand, maybe I won't have to adjust it ever again.

Having said that, once I finally put everything together and filled the tank (that wasn't all that easy either)--sheer bliss. Honestly. This is the best atty I've ever used. The vape is smooth, quiet and oh so flavorful. I had no idea that my Raspberry White Tea from Ahlusion had that nuance and depth of flavor--I can taste the white tea and the juicy raspberries in perfect harmony.

I'm on my second tank; I only put 2 ml or so in the first one--I was afraid of leaks and other malfunctions, but they didn't materialize yet. The flavor is actually improving as the cotton is breaking in.

One more question: has anyone tried replacing the screws on the deck? Fat Daddy sells those big fat screws than can be tightened by hand. Any thoughts? I've never tried them.

SHOP - FatDaddyVapes.com - Home of the best vape tweaks and replacement hardware.

"Kayfun Screws - Knurled M1.6
Put the "fun" back on your Kay. Precision CNC machined so that your threads do not get stripped.
Note: Due to higher manufacturing cost because of its size, we can only include 6 pieces per set."

Below are their plain Kayfun post screws. Are they any better than those that came with our Tobeco clone?

Thanks a million for all the help and happy vaping!

These are so small they are all but useless.

Edit: talking about the knurled ones.

 

[tchavei]

You also can get these ones:

The Screws of Destiny x3 pcs

Those have the advantage that you can tighten down the screws with your thumbs and use a 1.5mm allen key to tight them really snug

Regards
Tony

 

[doofy666]

I use these screws: M1.6 (1.6mm) A2 STAINLESS STEEL SOCKET CAP SCREWS, ALLEN KEY BOLTS HEX HEAD FWS | eBay They need a 1.5mm allen key.

The important thing about replacement screws is that the underside of the head should be flat so as to grip the wire better. Stock screws have a tapered underside which tries to force the wire out when tightening.
Removing 2 screws on the deck, leaving 2 diagonal can be useful as it makes coil fixing easier. The exception is when using TP when it is useful to fix wire under all 4 screws for enhanced connectivity.

 

[cobalt327]

On my 2 KF4's, that I've had for a few months now, I have not taken the base apart since the initial cleaning. I simply blast water into the holes and blow them out with my compressor. Someday I'll take it apart just to see what the spring looks like.

Out of sight- out of mind. You're cleaning it well so there's really nothing to be gained by disassembling the base IMHO. Mine all came with #9 good and tight so as long as the resistance doesn't wander, you should be good to go.

 

[sylpheel]

What this tells me is you're not using rayon.

Nope, I use Japanese Organic Cotton.

 

[ricks]

Out of sight- out of mind. You're cleaning it well so there's really nothing to be gained by disassembling the base IMHO. Mine all came with #9 good and tight so as long as the resistance doesn't wander, you should be good to go.

If it gets loose, how can I tell? Other than the resistance wandering, would the bottom be looser? I made them very tight when I put them together hoping they would stay there.

 

[TrollDragon]

One more question: has anyone tried replacing the screws on the deck? Fat Daddy sells those big fat screws than can be tightened by hand. Any thoughts? I've never tried them.

SHOP - FatDaddyVapes.com - Home of the best vape tweaks and replacement hardware.

"Kayfun Screws - Knurled M1.6
Put the "fun" back on your Kay. Precision CNC machined so that your threads do not get stripped.
Note: Due to higher manufacturing cost because of its size, we can only include 6 pieces per set."

Below are their plain Kayfun post screws. Are they any better than those that came with our Tobeco clone?

Thanks a million for all the help and happy vaping!

I have both of those the Knurled and the Stainless from FDV. The knurled are perfectly flat on the bottom and cover a big area. Once the coil is in place they are still too tiny for me to get my fingers on for a proper tightening, I end up using my Leatherman's needle nose pliers instead of a Phillips screwdriver.

The 12 pack of stainless are nice as the tops are machined quite well as opposed to a sloppy Phillips head on half of the clone screws. They are still not as flat on the bottom as they should be but better than most.

Knurled on my 3.1

The best solution I have found to fixing the Kayfun decks is to cut a groove next to the screw with a small file. I used a triangle file but I think a small rat tail would be better.

This way you just pull the wire around the head part way, place it into the groove and tighten.

A perfect capture every time, even with twisted or parallel.

I was told that the reason my wires didn't capture properly was that I had a clone and not an Authentic. Oh well what can you do...

The cheese head ones from @Grendel6.5 or the Screws of destiny from @tchavei as well as @doofy666 and the cap screws would all perform better than the FDV ones IMHO. I have stopped using the knurled after cutting the grooves in my posts and have gone back to the regular FDV stainless.

 

[TrollDragon]

If anyone knows a place or has a M3 stainless steel screw 35 mm long or longer I'd like to get a few. The Amazon link that Grendel posted has them by the 100 and want $15 to ship them to Canada. I only need two or three and will never have a use for the rest. A cheese head version would be perfect, but a regular machine head will work as well. I could also use brass if there were any available.

Thanks!

 

[Monotremata]

If it gets loose, how can I tell? Other than the resistance wandering, would the bottom be looser? I made them very tight when I put them together hoping they would stay there.

Whenever mine had come loose, you will notice some serious wobbling between the base and the tank when you close the juice control. Luckily mine have all been fine for a few months since the last time I broke em all down and retightened em.

 

[Katya]

These are much better. I have both. I bought the 1.6x4mm ones. 18-8 Stainless Steel Machine Screw, Plain Finish, Cheese Head, Slotted Drive, Meets DIN 84, Right Hand Threads, Metric: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

I like these. So 4 mm is the correct length? I've seen many people recommending M1.6-3.5; 3 mm. But I'd rather have a longer screw if it fits. I want to replace the screws on Kayfun 4, Erlkonigin, and Lemo.

Tchavei and Doofy--those are nice, but I'd rather buy locally... Whenever I see the price listed in Euros, I get nervous.

 

[cobalt327]

If it gets loose, how can I tell? Other than the resistance wandering, would the bottom be looser? I made them very tight when I put them together hoping they would stay there.

The screw doesn't have a tendency to loosen in use so if you tightened it up good when you put it back together, you won't have a problem. But to answer the question, yes, the ring would begin to loosen between it and the bottommost part of the base assembly, even with the juice control all the way off or on (like Monotremata said above). These attys have been coming with some wobble at that joint even with the screw tightened good, but that's because of how it was machined. So as long as the amount of looseness or wobble doesn't get worse (or the resistance goes wonky) you are golden.

 

[Katya]

I have both of those the Knurled and the Stainless from FDV. The knurled are perfectly flat on the bottom and cover a big area. Once the coil is in place they are still too tiny for me to get my fingers on for a proper tightening, I end up using my Leatherman's needle nose pliers instead of a Phillips screwdriver.

So much for convenience... Thanks.

The 12 pack of stainless are nice as the tops are machined quite well as opposed to a sloppy Phillips head on half of the clone screws. They are still not as flat on the bottom as they should be but better than most.

Good to know.

The best solution I have found to fixing the Kayfun decks is to cut a groove next to the screw with a small file. I used a triangle file but I think a small rat tail would be better.

That's very clever. I think that the whole idea of capturing the legs under screws should be revisited by designers--no matter what you do or how good a screw is, there is always a risk of pulling that leg while tightening the screw and thus distorting the coil. The problem is that everyone is just copying SvoeMesto's original design without thinking... Only Kanger tried to improve that capture mechanism--the SubTank is quite cleverly designed. I think they should have grooves/channels for the wire and a simpler way to fasten the leg without mangling the coil in the process.

I was told that the reason my wires didn't capture properly was that I had a clone and not an Authentic. Oh well what can you do...

Whatcha gonna do?

The cheese head ones from @Grendel6.5 or the Screws of destiny from @tchavei as well as @doofy666 and the cap screws would all perform better than the FDV ones IMHO. I have stopped using the knurled after cutting the grooves in my posts and have gone back to the regular FDV stainless.

Thanks again!

 

[Katya]

If anyone knows a place or has a M3 stainless steel screw 35 mm long or longer I'd like to get a few. The Amazon link that Grendel posted has them by the 100 and want $15 to ship them to Canada. I only need two or three and will never have a use for the rest. A cheese head version would be perfect, but a regular machine head will work as well. I could also use brass if there were any available.

Thanks!

Sorry--I wouldn't even know where to look. But if you find something in the US, I'll be happy to order them and ship them to you.

 

[cobalt327]

If anyone knows a place or has a M3 stainless steel screw 35 mm long or longer I'd like to get a few. The Amazon link that Grendel posted has them by the 100 and want $15 to ship them to Canada. I only need two or three and will never have a use for the rest. A cheese head version would be perfect, but a regular machine head will work as well. I could also use brass if there were any available.

Thanks!

Googled "m3 x 35mm long screw" and got a few hits (you didn't mean 3.5mm, right?). If you can make use of a buttonhead screw, appearantly Losi uses them on their RC cars. The company will ship to Canada but no idea of what the extra cost might be. There might be better suppliers as well.

Team Losi Racing 3x35mm Button Head Screws (10) [TLR5906] | Parts - AMain.com - AMain.com

Good luck!

Sorry--I wouldn't even know where to look. But if you find something in the US, I'll be happy to order them and ship them to you.

That's mighty kind of you- well done!!