Attack of the (Kayfun v4) Clones!
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There seems to not be any reason why this is happening.
Try just the chimney part that unscrews around the wire posts, see if it slips into the bell portion of the of the outer chimney maybe its slightly out of round, or burrs somewhere?
As for which is the best, of the three I have my nod goes to the Tobeco. and it is pretty much readily available with no waits for purchase, price is decent as well
As for which is the best, of the three I have my nod goes to the Tobeco. and it is pretty much readily available with no waits for purchase, price is decent as well
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I just received my 2nd FT type "A" and was going to post a few differences between it and the 1st type "A" (improvements actually) but the I saw this:
If not caught during inspection one could go nuts trying to figure out why it leaks so bad. LOL
Time to start a ticket, I was just about to bathe it but............see the hole?
Edit: I'll go ahead with the rest of what I've discovered with it.
O-rings #16 and 18 fit correctly.
The square section of #8 fits too tight into the square hole of #3, I just about couldn't get it apart after removing the screw #9 but this is an easy fix.
Teflon ring #9 is 40 mil on this one, was 20 mil on the 1st one.
The presentation boxes have a slightly different look, the 1st one is more glossy.
The 1st one came with a copper plated spring installed and a silver one in the bag and the springs for the 2nd one are both silver plated.
Except for the hole drilled all the way through this one is pretty good ("except" LOL)
Edit: After I see what FT is going to do about it I'll probably just fix it and use it till the replacement part or whatever gets here.
Looks to be a pretty easy fix.
EDIT: FIXED
Oh the wonders of technology, a piece of re-sized tooth pick, a drop of super glue, a hammer and a Dremel. My deck on #2 no longer has a hole in it. Hopefully FT will just send me another base part rather than return the whole thing, either way it's a go on this one.
If not caught during inspection one could go nuts trying to figure out why it leaks so bad. LOL
Time to start a ticket, I was just about to bathe it but............see the hole?
Edit: I'll go ahead with the rest of what I've discovered with it.
O-rings #16 and 18 fit correctly.
The square section of #8 fits too tight into the square hole of #3, I just about couldn't get it apart after removing the screw #9 but this is an easy fix.
Teflon ring #9 is 40 mil on this one, was 20 mil on the 1st one.
The presentation boxes have a slightly different look, the 1st one is more glossy.
The 1st one came with a copper plated spring installed and a silver one in the bag and the springs for the 2nd one are both silver plated.
Except for the hole drilled all the way through this one is pretty good ("except" LOL)
Edit: After I see what FT is going to do about it I'll probably just fix it and use it till the replacement part or whatever gets here.
Looks to be a pretty easy fix.
EDIT: FIXED
Oh the wonders of technology, a piece of re-sized tooth pick, a drop of super glue, a hammer and a Dremel. My deck on #2 no longer has a hole in it. Hopefully FT will just send me another base part rather than return the whole thing, either way it's a go on this one.
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My Robbot KF is rather stiff .. I removed the oring under the base and replaced with a slightly thinner one and its better, but still not as smooth as I would like it. I think the machining on one of those two parts may be off, a QC issue. I watched Richard Ng's youtube review of it and his moves perfectly, so I am thinking this has to be QC.
Extend your air screw out till it makes contact with the end of the 510 screw, I read that your 510 doesn't come loose, is that the screw or the entire 510 base?
Then check if your ohm's still jump around.
Well, I got my juice ring unstuck by using vice grips. Even with a paper towel in between the grips I nicked the ring. Good thing I paid $23 for this.
Just a quick tip: Screw the Kayfun onto your mod by using the juice control ring. I was just grabbing it wherever and screwing it on. After the JC ring stops screwing onto the mod, it'll keep turning till it's fully open and then get jammed if you turn it a bit too far to snug everything up onto the top of your mod.
I bought some unflavored floss, put two wraps around the channel where the #16 oring sits and assembled it back together. Right now I've got some crappy MBV juice that I don't use sitting in the tank, and the tank is sitting sideways with the JC fully closed. I'm going to let it sit for an hour and see if it leaks at all.
Just a quick tip: Screw the Kayfun onto your mod by using the juice control ring. I was just grabbing it wherever and screwing it on. After the JC ring stops screwing onto the mod, it'll keep turning till it's fully open and then get jammed if you turn it a bit too far to snug everything up onto the top of your mod.
I bought some unflavored floss, put two wraps around the channel where the #16 oring sits and assembled it back together. Right now I've got some crappy MBV juice that I don't use sitting in the tank, and the tank is sitting sideways with the JC fully closed. I'm going to let it sit for an hour and see if it leaks at all.
Its the 510 screw that's stuck.
Ok, I'll use the air screw to make the connection. Should I take the spring out or leave it?
I nicked my authentic, lol. I'm not worried though, it's so great once you get the hang of it I won't be letting it go.
Just leave it.
Does your 510 screw seems too tight or does it just spin when trying to remove it?
Which clone is that? Seems like your post screws are bigger than most and would hold cool tighter.
Roxy, I've been doing a little research and it looks like some of the authentic K4's are having the same problem. there is a facebook chat going where they were discussing the ohm jump and they are aware of it and we should "be sure to run the liquid control wide open unless you have to close it off to clear a flood. Compression on the spring is important and if you don't have the liquid control fully open (deck pushed down) then this can happen. We are working on a solution but for now just be mindful of the situation."
It seems like others are stretching the spring.
It seems like others are stretching the spring.
Well that would explain it. Do you have a clone? Wonder if those would fit a clone. I had a hell of a time getting 28 gauge to hold tight on negative post.
Yes, give me a couple of minutes and I'll check it.
Actually the ones on my clone are even bigger, the original's screws drop right into the threaded hole also, even screw driver size is not the same.
Here is picture of clone:
I salvage screws that fit vaping gear from old computer equipment, floppy drives and notebook hard drive yield some usually.
The above picture is the one with one of the four holes drilled the whole way through, FT type A
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He refunded my money with no hassle once i filed a paypal claim fwiw. Set me back a week but it's whatever. I'm happy now.
Might even play out to be a blessing in disguise. Gonna swing by my buddy's tomorrow who's already got 3 different versions, including the Tobecco, (he is a has to have one of everything collector type) and give them all a hands on look.
Thanks for the links Marc. Funny they want $10 for shipping to Canada
. Evolv shipped my USB charger for $1 and Vape Dojo sent me a DNA40 board and Ni200 for $7. Are you guys using silicone o-rings or another type?
Thanks for all the help!
Anyone else with a szeaster clone? Mine doesn't wick at all? Juice control is open and it looks like the juice isn't getting to my wick at all? Anyone else?
Make sure that the holes are clear of burrs ect. on parts # 26 & 17
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