It won't gunk as long as your wicks can keep up. If your coils are gunking that fast, you might not have enough juice flow. Most of my juices can go at least 4 tanks or more. The only juices that I have to re-wick every tank or two is some dark, sweet coffee juices.
Attack of the (Kayfun v4) Clones!
- Thread starter KTMRider
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It won't gunk as long as your wicks can keep up. If your coils are gunking that fast, you might not have enough juice flow. Most of my juices can go at least 4 tanks or more. The only juices that I have to re-wick every tank or two is some dark, sweet coffee juices.
I'm primarily vaping ahlusion fruit blends. Not overly sweet.
I'll check my wicking and see what I can find.
Bits scrambled by Tapatalk...
Dang.. I just checked mine after who knows how long and had to rewick. Guess I spoke too soon earlier. I had to lift the coil a little and there was so much crap on it I couldn't get my drill bit through it haha.. Wonder if I should try a bigger ID.. I keep the Kayfuns at 5/64", but I think my Magma is a 3/32"..
More is better....
I never have a dry hit using a regular kayfun or the newest kayfun v4.
I still don't under stand people saying to use less. You can ALMOST not use too much cotton or rayon
I also see no difference with the juice holes covered or not covered.
Vaping 1.2 ohm coils at 20 watts with zero dry hits and I pretty much just use 1 atty all day long. Three vapes set it down for a couple of minutes and another three vapes
I never have a dry hit using a regular kayfun or the newest kayfun v4.
I still don't under stand people saying to use less. You can ALMOST not use too much cotton or rayon
I also see no difference with the juice holes covered or not covered.
Vaping 1.2 ohm coils at 20 watts with zero dry hits and I pretty much just use 1 atty all day long. Three vapes set it down for a couple of minutes and another three vapes
I received my black FT K4 SKU 2047200, I changed all o-rings except for the ones on the drip tip. Juice control movement was correct.
Here where it gets messed up, they applied the black coating to the 510 threads as well as the square recess inside #3 where the square protrusion of #3 butts and grounds. That black coating is pretty darn tough but not tough enough for my Dremel. It took almost 2 hours just to get it ready for a build which I will do right now.
Edit, I put a build in it, working great, this is the first FT K4 that didn't have a slight trace of machine oil when I first used it. This is due to they probably have to clean it good for the black to work and I'm getting good at prepping them.
This on for sure would have leaked from o-ring 16, as I said in a previous post you can eyeball that o-ring after intalled on #17 and it should be proud on the corners where tis one when I got it you couldn't see the o-ring sticking up on the corners.
On this particular model the 510 screw is cooper/copper coated ? and is flush with the 510 threads.
Is was nice of them to establish such a good positive connection and leave the ground completely open, I checked with a meter when disassembled (the square hole of #3), that black does not conduct.
Here where it gets messed up, they applied the black coating to the 510 threads as well as the square recess inside #3 where the square protrusion of #3 butts and grounds. That black coating is pretty darn tough but not tough enough for my Dremel. It took almost 2 hours just to get it ready for a build which I will do right now.
Edit, I put a build in it, working great, this is the first FT K4 that didn't have a slight trace of machine oil when I first used it. This is due to they probably have to clean it good for the black to work and I'm getting good at prepping them.
This on for sure would have leaked from o-ring 16, as I said in a previous post you can eyeball that o-ring after intalled on #17 and it should be proud on the corners where tis one when I got it you couldn't see the o-ring sticking up on the corners.
On this particular model the 510 screw is cooper/copper coated ? and is flush with the 510 threads.
Is was nice of them to establish such a good positive connection and leave the ground completely open, I checked with a meter when disassembled (the square hole of #3), that black does not conduct.
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I Think I Got It!!
What I thought was O-Ring issues appears to have maybe been wicking issues. Well, it could have been O-Rings before but I fixed that with the floss fix. I was still getting flooding but dry hits at the same time? I think I was under-wicking because when I took it apart, the area around the air port was soaked but the wick was sort of dry. There was excessive space around the wick and I could acthally see the juice ports, it was like the wick was floating in mid air and not contacting the juice.
I've since re-wicked using the "cut and tuck" method rather than pasting the KGD in place with juice before putting the chimney ring on. It still sounds a bit bubbly, but that may be because my coil is too low. It sits a bit closer than 1mm right now so I'm gonna change that out and get it a bit higher. But that can wait, I want to run a few tanks through it, This thing vapes nice
What I thought was O-Ring issues appears to have maybe been wicking issues. Well, it could have been O-Rings before but I fixed that with the floss fix. I was still getting flooding but dry hits at the same time? I think I was under-wicking because when I took it apart, the area around the air port was soaked but the wick was sort of dry. There was excessive space around the wick and I could acthally see the juice ports, it was like the wick was floating in mid air and not contacting the juice.
I've since re-wicked using the "cut and tuck" method rather than pasting the KGD in place with juice before putting the chimney ring on. It still sounds a bit bubbly, but that may be because my coil is too low. It sits a bit closer than 1mm right now so I'm gonna change that out and get it a bit higher. But that can wait, I want to run a few tanks through it, This thing vapes nice
I Think I Got It!!
What I thought was O-Ring issues appears to have maybe been wicking issues. Well, it could have been O-Rings before but I fixed that with the floss fix. I was still getting flooding but dry hits at the same time? I think I was under-wicking because when I took it apart, the area around the air port was soaked but the wick was sort of dry. There was excessive space around the wick and I could acthally see the juice ports, it was like the wick was floating in mid air and not contacting the juice.
I've since re-wicked using the "cut and tuck" method rather than pasting the KGD in place with juice before putting the chimney ring on. It still sounds a bit bubbly, but that may be because my coil is too low. It sits a bit closer than 1mm right now so I'm gonna change that out and get it a bit higher. But that can wait, I want to run a few tanks through it, This thing vapes nice
It's easy enough to open it and gently pry the coil up a bit.
Use 12 x 1.5 mm o-ring for #16
The 510 and the #9 screw are both out. I cannot disassemble it. Something inside is preventing me from turning it like something got loose and is not letting me give it a turn. There is a little play that is kind of loose then BAM hits a stopper. I think I just threw $20 out the window
The 510 and the #9 screw are both out. I cannot disassemble it. Something inside is preventing me from turning it like something got loose and is not letting me give it a turn. There is a little play that is kind of loose then BAM hits a stopper. I think I just threw $20 out the window
The "square peg is stuck in the square hole" it's just tight, it will separate.
the square protrusion of #8 is stuck into the square recess of #3, once you "snap" it apart use an Emory board on the edges of the square protrusion of #8 so it fit together and come back apart next, or use a file.
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I just want to say thanks to everyone here.
Was starting to get frustrated with the tobeco kayfun v4 leaking, even thought about changing to a different rta but now that the leak is fixed, I love it.
I put two wraps of dental floss under o-ring #16 and it has yet to leak. Be careful when screwing back the juice control, it does tend to pinch the oring so i'll screw it on a little, back it off, push the oring in and screw it in some more. Will probably replace the oring with a thicker one but just wish there were cheaper alternatives opposed to paying $5 in shipping for them.
Currently running a .65 ohm build. 6 wraps of 26 gauge kanthal around a 5/64th drill bit.
I tried to do a .4 ohm but got dry hits.
Just wished there were more airflow. Can't get myself to cough up $12 for the subohm kit when I could buy a big dripper for that price.
I dont know if it's ok to post vendor links but I was able to find my tobeco clone for $22 shipped from the US.
Was starting to get frustrated with the tobeco kayfun v4 leaking, even thought about changing to a different rta but now that the leak is fixed, I love it.
I put two wraps of dental floss under o-ring #16 and it has yet to leak. Be careful when screwing back the juice control, it does tend to pinch the oring so i'll screw it on a little, back it off, push the oring in and screw it in some more. Will probably replace the oring with a thicker one but just wish there were cheaper alternatives opposed to paying $5 in shipping for them.
Currently running a .65 ohm build. 6 wraps of 26 gauge kanthal around a 5/64th drill bit.
I tried to do a .4 ohm but got dry hits.
Just wished there were more airflow. Can't get myself to cough up $12 for the subohm kit when I could buy a big dripper for that price.
I dont know if it's ok to post vendor links but I was able to find my tobeco clone for $22 shipped from the US.
The "square peg is stuck in the square hole" it's just tight, it will separate.
the square protrusion of #8 is stuck into the square recess of #3, once you "snap" it apart use an Emory board on the edges of the square protrusion of #8 so it fit together and come back apart next, or use a file.
Well it definitely feels like something that big is stopping me from turning the bottom. Do you think the air hole screw was keeping the square peg from coming down then when I removed it it moved down to cause the blockage?
Thanks for your help. One last question though... How do I snap it apart haha.
I changed my mind about posting it here, I sent you a PM
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3 tanks into my newest clone (Tobeco silver) over 2 days and it's still awesome. Absolutely no issues at all. Vapes like it did with the first tank, no leaks or slurps. My FT still has a bit of juice that gets past (16) after a few days even though I replaced it but not the Tobeco.
so you cant turn the juice control at all? Would you be able to take a picture of what exactly's stuck?
Try using a rubber band, wrap it around the juice control (or whatever is stuck). It'll give you something to grip on.
I'm in LA too if you want to swing by, I can take a look at it.
Ah, I see what you're saying. Use brute force
Thanks you sir!
more like the right approach, it is simply wedged together because they made one part a bit too big.
Now that it's apart what do you want to do? Shim or sand down #7?
First thing that needs done I guess is to file/sand those edges of the square protrusion of #8 so it fit back together OK. An Emory board works pretty good, that's stainless steel so it's pretty hard.
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