Attack of the (Kayfun v4) Clones!

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VaPreis

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I did find a minor maching issue with my Focal clone that may have been causing a leaking issue. I noticed that the o-ring that sits in the upper portion of the top cap where it seals to the chimney was not sitting in it's groove nicely. I took the seal out and found that there was several pieces of machining debris in the groove. Luckily, they were all loose and I got them out easily with a pick.

My wife works as the general manager of a local vapor shop, and she's going to check to see if they have a suitable replacement for the #16 o-ring.

Meanwhile, I ordered the rebuild set and 4S kit from 101vape....Oh, and the $9.95 Tobeco from Vapor Range.

I think I like these things. ;)
 
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cobalt327

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On a $10 clone the wobble isn't a real problem as it's rock solid in the open position where it sits 99% of the time. What are you using to machine #8 down with? I'm interested in getting some gold contact springs at some point. Any idea from where and cost?
Yeah, if the wobble doesn't bother you just ignore it. But even at $10, no reason it can't be made to work better.

To remove material from the bottom of #8, you can use a piece of flat tempered glass and 220 grit wet or dry paper wetted w/soapy water. Use a circular motion, changing the clocking of #8 as you work. While this isn't an uber fast cutting operation, just the same check the dimension often just to be safe. When you get close you can go to a finer grit if you're worried about going too far- but like I said, this is rather slow going even with 220 grit. The surface being worked is not a friction or sealing point so a polished finish isn't necessary.

I use a micrometer to measure #8 as I work (calipers will also work) but truth be told, you can do this entire operation w/o ANY measurement tools. That said, the following is what I KNOW works: To measure the gap, assemble #3 through #9 (#6 O-ring isn't needed but it won't hurt if it's on). Then using identical feeler gauges inserted 180 degrees apart, measure the gap between #3 and #5. This is the amount that can be safely removed from the bottom of #8. If for some reason you go too far, you can use the same method to thin seal ring #7- but that shouldn't be necessary if you're even moderately careful.
 
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herb

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I'm confused with the juice control (pretty sure it's the juice control ) it seems the very bottom piece will turn and i am not sure what the very bottom piece is for. The knuckled ring at the bottom with all the holes moves as well so what is the very bottom piece for ?

If you move both pieces together counterclockwise the whole bottom comes off , i am still trying to figure out how this thing works .
 

cobalt327

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If you keep the very bottommost segment (#3 on the diagram) from turning with one hand, turning the juice ring (#5) CW will OPEN the juice. And vice versa. Now, keeping #3 from turning can be a little tricky- it's smooth and will want to slip between your fingers and thumb, especially if there's any juice on it or your hands. It'll be easier to remove the atty from the mod while doing this until you're used to how it works. It gets easier once the threads and O-rings get broken in, too.

So to top fill, hold #3 from turning, turn the juice ring CCW till it stops, remove the "top nut" #38 and fill w/juice. Then replace the top nut and again holding #3 from turning, turn the juice ring back CW to open. BTW, there's a lot to be said for bottom filling these. Just sayin'.

ETA- Maybe someone here has a good "How To" KFv4 video bookmarked that they could share.
 
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dwcraig1

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Both of mine were matte. Everything seems good so far. Washed them and built a 1.1 ohm coil in 1. Haven't wicked it yet. Waiting on some juice to come in tomorrow. Man was it hard capturing the coil in those screws though.
Maybe removing the two screws that your not using, it will be a bit easier then perhaps.
 

cobalt327

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cobalt327

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Yeah, if the wobble doesn't bother you just ignore it. But even at $10, no reason it can't be made to work better.
One thing to add: The way the threading is cut on #6 and #17 also contributes to the wobble because of how loose the fit is. About the only way to help this is to use teflon tape on #6 before joining it to #17. If this is done, be sure the air holes aren't blocked. I trimmed the teflon tape w/a fresh razor blade. And don't forget to add the spring before screwing them together! :oops:
 

eLefAdEr

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First major "accident" with leaking out of the airholes, made quite a mess as I was installing the PMMA tank section. Decided to actually read the manual (such a guy thing: "I don't need a manual!") and now I know exactly how airflow and juice controls work.

If it hasn't been posted in this thread already, here's a .pdf link for the legit Kayfun: http://www.svoemesto.de/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/Kayfun4-manual_EN.pdf
 
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eLefAdEr

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Maybe removing the two screws that your not using, it will be a bit easier then perhaps.

I did this, forgot to reinstall them, but it's vaping fine without any issue other than me being stupid about the juice control. I didn't notice any juice leaking into the screw holes when I took it apart.
 

bobby james

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Omg this thing is nice! Vaping like a champ and the flavor is amazing. Such a big difference from the kayfun lite. Only thing I don't really like is the grooves in the drip tip but that'd no biggie at all. Now I gotta order some virus from Nicoticket (never tried it) for the second tank.
 

dwcraig1

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I did this, forgot to reinstall them, but it's vaping fine without any issue other than me being stupid about the juice control. I didn't notice any juice leaking into the screw holes when I took it apart.
Why re-install them? Just put them in the bag with the extra spring or some other place that you can find them if needed.
 
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