Attack of the (Kayfun v4) Clones!

[TrollDragon]

So your the one who bought the last single Bamboo tank glass... I had that in the cart but came up as 7 Days, I didn't want 5 of them so I removed the extension kit.

Stop buying up all the good stuff off of FT!

 

[ian91]

You gotta love FT for always running out of what you want!!! You should try one of the Kayfun Monster bases from FT. It really transforms your old KFL+. I am a MTLer and it took me a few days to get used to the amount of airflow that it has but, once I did, I had to get more of them. There are very few tanks for me anymore so plan to mostly stick mostly with Kayfuns. I tried a sub-ohm tank and hated it. I vape at 15 watts using 1.2ohm coils and plan to stick with that.

 

[TrollDragon]

I'll have to add one of those Monster bases when the Big German stumpy tanks come in stock, as well as the Bamboo Glass.

Just too many toys.

 

[hittman]

I just recently bought a tobeco kayfun v4 and noticed after the first day that the deck is flooding and it is leaking some when laid on it's side. I have read that some people have fixed this with new orings. I thought I'd ask the experts here. Any suggestions?

 

[KTMRider]

I just recently bought a tobeco kayfun v4 and noticed after the first day that the deck is flooding and it is leaking some when laid on it's side. I have read that some people have fixed this with new orings. I thought I'd ask the experts here. Any suggestions?

There's a few reasons for it flooding. If it's only a little, check #16 (it's not square like in the pic). The upgrade would be a 12mm x 1.5mm oring (stock is 11 x 1.5mm). You should also look at all the o-rings that seal the tank. If you have even a slight air leak, you'll get flooding. I'd look at #36 and #37.

 

[TheBloke]

Thought I'd finally stick my nose into this thread. After 6 months of vaping without having tried a single of the famous Kayfun family, I finally bowed to the inevitable a few weeks ago and bought the Infinite 1:1 clone from a UK vendor.

Liked it quite a lot, so a week ago I bought the "Improved" Infinite 1:1 clone from FastTech - the one that comes with the v4s adapter in the box, and has the single "striped" metal tank instead of the bell cap. And I really like that stripey tank. One thing I wasn't super keen on on my first Infinite was the three-part tank section with the nut, which seemed a bit cumbersome - and once or twice came undone when I was trying to adjust the JC.

I didn't want to use the bell cap and lose top fill, so the single-piece striped tank is a great compromise. Looks nice too!

The only issue I'm having now, with both, is the dreaded spring resistance problems. On one of them I've tried a method involving reversing the airflow screw and then tightening it from the top (through the airhole from the deck), just enough to make contact. That seems to be working OK in terms of resistance, but I now have huge problems opening the JC - I probably need to back the screw off just a fraction. And I haven't yet got the screw locked in one position, to do that I believe I need to punch an indent in the tube to hold the screw (or I suppose I could add a blob of solder.)

I did try my own solution involving a brass nut, trying to re-create the Steam Tuner's Spring Update. Unfortunately the nut is slightly too wide on the outside diameter and is shorting. I might be able to file it down a bit more, and plan to try that. It was also fractionally too short so I have to have a separate washer under it, also not ideal.

I'm sure there's hundreds of posts describing/fixing that issue in the thread so I'll do some searching to see what other solutions there are.

Anyway I'm enjoying my KF4s now I finally have them It seemed crazily over-engineered to start with, but in practice I find it all works well. Besides which, using a single-piece tank reduces the number of pieces quite a bit. And I greatly appreciate any tank with top fill + accessible deck.

 

[TrollDragon]

Thought I'd finally stick my nose into this thread. After 6 months of vaping without having tried a single of the famous Kayfun family, I finally bowed to the inevitable a few weeks ago and bought the Infinite 1:1 clone from a UK vendor.

Liked it quite a lot, so a week ago I bought the "Improved" Infinite 1:1 clone from FastTech - the one that comes with the v4s adapter in the box, and has the single "striped" metal tank instead of the bell cap. And I really like that stripey tank. One thing I wasn't super keen on on my first Infinite was the three-part tank section with the nut, which seemed a bit cumbersome - and once or twice came undone when I was trying to adjust the JC.

I didn't want to use the bell cap and lose top fill, so the single-piece striped tank is a great compromise. Looks nice too!

The only issue I'm having now, with both, is the dreaded spring resistance problems. On one of them I've tried a method involving reversing the airflow screw and then tightening it from the top (through the airhole from the deck), just enough to make contact. That seems to be working OK in terms of resistance, but I now have huge problems opening the JC - I probably need to back the screw off just a fraction. And I haven't yet got the screw locked in one position, to do that I believe I need to punch an indent in the tube to hold the screw (or I suppose I could add a blob of solder.)

I did try my own solution involving a brass nut, trying to re-create the Steam Tuner's Spring Update. Unfortunately the nut is slightly too wide on the outside diameter and is shorting. I might be able to file it down a bit more, and plan to try that. It was also fractionally too short so I have to have a separate washer under it, also not ideal.

I'm sure there's hundreds of posts describing/fixing that issue in the thread so I'll do some searching to see what other solutions there are.

Anyway I'm enjoying my KF4s now I finally have them It seemed crazily over-engineered to start with, but in practice I find it all works well. Besides which, using a single-piece tank reduces the number of pieces quite a bit. And I greatly appreciate any tank with top fill + accessible deck.

Congrats and welcome to the Club!

If you want a glass tank for that improved version, the Bamboo RDA glass is reported to fit.
$1.34 Replacement Glass Tank for Bamboo RDA Atomizer - translucent at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

Can't help you with the resistance problem, I use the spring that was included with my Infinite version and have never had a problem.

 

[KTMRider]

I've tried a bunch of stuff to stabilize the resistance and what I found that works best is to bend one end of the spring in so the afc screw sits on top of it and sandwiches it and the 510 pin. Cheap (free!) and easy and works great.

 

[TheBloke]

Thanks very much @TrollDragon ! I will definitely get that glass when I'm next putting in an FT order.

@KTMRider oh OK thanks, that sounds interesting. And that works for stable temperature control as well?

 

[KTMRider]

I only use ni200 now and that's the main reason I was trying different stuff to stabilize the resistance. Reversing the afc screw works but I wasn't ready to pinch the metal (too permanent). I have 7 KFv4 clones so I have a few extra springs .

 

[TheBloke]

Awesome thanks, I'll definitely give it a go!

 

[hittman]

I completely took apart my tobeco that I've been having flooding and leaking problems with. Everything seemed to be put together correctly. I filled it again and am waiting to see if it floods again.

 

[TrollDragon]

I completely took apart my tobeco that I've been having flooding and leaking problems with. Everything seemed to be put together correctly. I filled it again and am waiting to see if it floods again.

Hopefully it was an o-ring a bit out of place from the factory assembly. Now everything should be back in place.

 

[hittman]

So far, so good. Evidently I put too much cotton in this time though. It's just not wicking right. I'm going to do a new build in the morning.

 

[TrollDragon]

So far, so good. Evidently I put too much cotton in this time though. It's just not wicking right. I'm going to do a new build in the morning.

If you are ever out with it and don't have time to fix it. Just unscrew #38 a few turns and the bubbles will rise, then close it and you are good to vape for a little longer.

 

[MsLoud]

Not sure what I've done but on one of my Tobeco clones I have managed to cause the juice control ring to "wiggle" when fully open. Took the base apart but no luck getting it to stay snug when I open up the control all the way. Any clues?

 

[KTMRider]

Not sure what I've done but on one of my Tobeco clones I have managed to cause the juice control ring to "wiggle" when fully open. Took the base apart but no luck getting it to stay snug when I open up the control all the way. Any clues?

You need to tighten #9 and make sure #1 is tight too. Don't tighten #1 when the JC is fully open or closed.

 

[hittman]

I cleaned my kayfun 4 out this morning, put in a new wick and coil. I'm getting a little bit of gurgling when I first draw off of it but it clears up after a few hits. I think I might have gone a little light on the wick this time. I'll get it right eventually.

 

[TheBloke]

I cleaned my kayfun 4 out this morning, put in a new wick and coil. I'm getting a little bit of gurgling when I first draw off of it but it clears up after a few hits. I think I might have gone a little light on the wick this time. I'll get it right eventually.

This is how I've been doing mine with Rayon. I don't get any gurgling as long as I have closed the JC fully when top filling.

Rayon is covering most of the wick deck but not all (more on one side of the coil than the other, now I look at it.) Rayon tight inside the coil but then heavily thinned outside the coil




PS. When I have had gurgling in this or other tanks, what I do is hold it upside down, and blow down (up) the drip tip to push all the juice out of the air holes. I hold a tissue/paper towel around it to catch it. Then it's usually clear and non-gurgly when I put the right way up.

 

[hittman]

I blew mine out several times and the gurgling comes right back. I noticed when I had it broken down that there were some extra circular machining marks on the inside of the juice flow adjuster. It looks like something slipped when the part was machined.