Attack of the (Kayfun v4) Clones!

[Rudeboy615]

I'd say break it down like the exploded diagram and check that everything is where it is supposed to be. PiTA, but it's the only way to rule out missing o-rings etc...

You don't need to take apart #13 to #24, a visual inspection of #16 & #18 will suffice for the deck parts, make sure #16 is not cut or nicked.

Definitely take #1 to #11 apart and #26 to #38 though.

Just filled the tank but will take it apart and check tomorrow. I did take it apart for first clean since it smelled horrible and had lots of black machine oil all over. The #16 oring is the only red one and had some extra rubber sticking out off rounded ring. Took pictures to remember where the parts go

 

[Rudeboy615]

Do I need to have all four screws that hold the leads on? I only have the two holding the leads... I'm also missing the spring so I have the airflow grub nut touching the 510. Will a cracked glass leak? I'm not looking forward to using a cloned polycarbonate tank and I keep worrying the ss tank will go dry.

 

[TrollDragon]

Just filled the tank but will take it apart and check tomorrow. I did take it apart for first clean since it smelled horrible and had lots of black machine oil all over. The #16 oring is the only red one and had some extra rubber sticking out off rounded ring. Took pictures to remember where the parts go

Do I need to have all four screws that hold the leads on? I only have the two holding the leads... I'm also missing the spring so I have the airflow grub nut touching the 510. Will a cracked glass leak? I'm not looking forward to using a cloned polycarbonate tank and I keep worrying the ss tank will go dry.

The red #16 is definitely a problem with those pinched sections, you will need another #16. You can use 2 screws if you like on the deck for coils. You should have the spring for ease of use, as the airflow screw used as a contact point will turn by itself and cause resistance issues. A cracked glass will most likely leak. The poly carbonate tank is fine except for tank cracker juices.

What brand of clone is this? Was it used?

Considering all the issues you are having, I would suggest picking up one of the Tobeco KFV4's new from a supplier like Elev8vape for $20.
Kayfun V4 Clone by Tobeco

The others here might know were the good deals are, I am in Canada and not up to date on the clearout sales.

 

[Rudeboy615]

The red #16 is definitely a problem with those pinched sections, you will need another #16. You can use 2 screws if you like on the deck for coils. You should have the spring for ease of use, as the airflow screw used as a contact point will turn by itself and cause resistance issues. A cracked glass will most likely leak. The poly carbonate tank is fine except for tank cracker juices.

What brand of clone is this? Was it used?

Considering all the issues you are having, I would suggest picking up one of the Tobeco KFV4's new from a supplier like Elev8vape for $20.
Kayfun V4 Clone by Tobeco

The others here might know were the good deals are, I am in Canada and not up to date on the clearout sales.

Thanks for the replies. I'm thinking someone bought it, took spring and lead screws, maybe replaced some orings and a cracked glass, never used it than returned it. lol Guy at store wanted $50 for it but since I noticed screws missing and I spent $55 on e juice he gave it to me for free. Got lead screws locally which were nearly impossible to find, slapped tank together and the vape is great!! Only other issue is when tightening the leads it warps my spaced coil, could be the replacement screws that pull on the leads.

 

[Rudeboy615]

After about 8ml of juice... never had any tank turn black like this. Will try raising the next coil a little, it's about 2mm above air shaft. Juice used: sugar drizzle by cuttwood 12mg nic.

 

[hittman]

I've never had one like that either in any tank.

 

[Rudeboy615]

Does anyone know the exact specs for oring #36? It says 5x1.5. Is the 5 inside or outside diameter? What's the third measurement?

 

[TrollDragon]

Does anyone know the exact specs for oring #36? It says 5x1.5. Is the 5 inside or outside diameter? What's the third measurement?

5mm is the ID and the thickness is 1.5mm, you double the thickness number to get the OD of 8mm.

 

[Rudeboy615]

Managed to trim an o-ring from an unused drip tip for #36. Now I can fill the tank without leaking by turning it upside down. Trimmed the pinching off #16 and for the first half tank, no leaks. Today its leaking again. Been trying to figure out the main differences between tobeco and infinite. Since their prices are similar now a days, I would prefer the infinite because of spare parts and bell cap if their performance and specs (airflow and juice flow) are the same.

I often get one major pop from coil to the point that I can feel it reverberate through the drip tip. It happened on all three builds I've uses so far. 28g spaced, 2 and 3mm id, 6 to 8 wraps at 1.4 ohm. It happens less when I draw harder. Could be from lead screws I bought locally although the ohms have been steady. They seem to be changing color so I'm assuming they are not stainless. Might be what turned my coil black. I hope it's not leaching something horribly poisonous on my wick. Any ideas?

I'm gonna put it aside till I get some replacement parts.

 

[DaveP]

I've always filled mine by removing the coil deck with the tank upside down and filling around the sides of the chimney. It shouldn't leak while you are filling unless you get juice into the chimney. You can remove the drip tip and it will sit on a flat surface without falling over. It shouldn't leak while the deck is out as long as you keep it open end up.

The reason I do it that way is that it's as easy as removing the top cap and I can check the wick and coil to see if a wick change and dry burn is necessary. It's also a plus that you don't have to close the deck juice control to fill from the bottom.

It's also a good check for upper o-ring leakage if you let it sit upside down for a while.

 

[TrollDragon]

Managed to trim an o-ring from an unused drip tip for #36. Now I can fill the tank without leaking by turning it upside down. Trimmed the pinching off #16 and for the first half tank, no leaks. Today its leaking again. Been trying to figure out the main differences between tobeco and infinite. Since their prices are similar now a days, I would prefer the infinite because of spare parts and bell cap if their performance and specs (airflow and juice flow) are the same.

I often get one major pop from coil to the point that I can feel it reverberate through the drip tip. It happened on all three builds I've uses so far. 28g spaced, 2 and 3mm id, 6 to 8 wraps at 1.4 ohm. It happens less when I draw harder. Could be from lead screws I bought locally although the ohms have been steady. They seem to be changing color so I'm assuming they are not stainless. Might be what turned my coil black. I hope it's not leaching something horribly poisonous on my wick. Any ideas?

I'm gonna put it aside till I get some replacement parts.

I have the Infinite version and a buddy has the Tobeco version, both work very well and both have the S-Kit installed for more airflow. I tried the bell cap on the KFV4 but there is capacity loss and you have to fill it from the bottom.

One of the reasons I picked up the KFV4 was for the convenience of top fill, if I wanted to fill from the bottom I'd still be using the KFL.

I always had 28g spaced coils pop, some hard like you mentioned and some not so much. Try increasing the spacing to see if that gets rid of it.

I can't imagine you bought lead screws?

You should get some proper SS screws for that deck.
Flat Head:
Spare Kayfun Deck Screws Flat Head - 5 Pack

or Phillips Head:
Spare Kayfun Deck Phillips Head Screws - 5 Pack

 

[Rudeboy615]

I have the Infinite version and a buddy has the Tobeco version, both work very well and both have the S-Kit installed for more airflow. I tried the bell cap on the KFV4 but there is capacity loss and you have to fill it from the bottom.

One of the reasons I picked up the KFV4 was for the convenience of top fill, if I wanted to fill from the bottom I'd still be using the KFL.

I always had 28g spaced coils pop, some hard like you mentioned and some not so much. Try increasing the spacing to see if that gets rid of it.

I can't imagine you bought lead screws?

You should get some proper SS screws for that deck.
Flat Head:
Spare Kayfun Deck Screws Flat Head - 5 Pack

or Phillips Head:
Spare Kayfun Deck Phillips Head Screws - 5 Pack

I meant the screws that hold the coil leads... how's the s-kit for mtl? I prefer a slightly restricted drag.

 

[TrollDragon]

I meant the screws that hold the coil leads... how's the s-kit for mtl? I prefer a slightly restricted drag.

If you take your air screw out completely, that would be just a little bit below the airflow from the S-Kit.

 

[Rudeboy615]

Got two tobecos from local shop at $10 a piece. The ss doesn't sit flush between base and airflow and jc doesn't open all the way and is also on a slant leaving half almost fully open and other half less open. It hasn't leaked so all good for now. Any ideas what is wrong? The black I just finished cleaning and one part looks discolored our starting to rust. Was getting jumping ohms so stretched the spring, should I still go for gold spring? Thanks for any inputs.

 

[ricks]

Got two tobecos from local shop at $10 a piece. The ss doesn't sit flush between base and airflow and jc doesn't open all the way and is also on a slant leaving half almost fully open and other half less open. It hasn't leaked so all good for now. Any ideas what is wrong? The black I just finished cleaning and one part looks discolored our starting to rust. Was getting jumping ohms so stretched the spring, should I still go for gold spring? Thanks for any inputs.

There are a lot of parts on these. Make sure everything is put together correctly...

 

[Rudeboy615]

There are a lot of parts on these. Make sure everything is put together correctly...

Thanks Rick. I'll quadruple check it tomorrow might be #9 screwed in crooked.
Had some issues with black tobeco not registering with both my mods. First and second build wouldn't get resistance read by mod even after stretching spring so I screwed airflow grub nut to touch 510. Still nothing so on third build I loosened the 510 and got a 2.8 ohms reading for a 1.8 ohm coil. I went ahead and dry burned and wicked and after vaping for a few minutes the resistance gradually went down to 1.8. Do I need to sand the black off the whole 510 reading?
What a pita! Both tobecos have juice control threadings not turning smooth and getting stuck at times.

 

[Rudeboy615]

Has anyone managed to use a tight airflow setting on the v4 successfully? For me all I get is gurgling.

 

[ricks]

Has anyone managed to use a tight airflow setting on the v4 successfully? For me all I get is gurgling.

I haven't used the V4 in a while but I never had gurgling with them.

 

[MikeE3]

No much activity here lately, just thought I'd pop in with this:

Kidney Puncher has the Tobeco Kayfun V4 on clearance for $4.95. he, he - the repair kit is $7.95 ... duh, which one is the better buy if you just need spare parts?

 

[DavidOck]

The repair kit, Mike. Less to wash...