Attack of the (Kayfun V5) Clones!

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Dubminer

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The black one is a Tobeco, the silver one is a SJMY with a separately bought barrel tank (ups the capacity to 6ml). I also have a SXK mini but that one's already retired (it wont stop leaking, but it's also too hot for me much like the Serpent mini, so I haven't tried to solve the leakage very hard).

I recommend the SJMY, it's in a league of it's own in terms of fit & finish as well as performance & flavor. I'm about to retire my Tobeco and replace it with another SJMY even though I hate to break up the black on black.

Everyone here seems real content with their Tobeco clones though, so it's possible I just got a bad one, idk. The darned thing just won't wick properly most of the time no matter what I try. I'll look in to it some more though, perhaps a little play time with a Dremel can fix it.
Makes me wonder if it is the black one that is a problem.I have four SS Tobeco's and they all perform flawlessly.
 

Kenna

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Pics, you say? Tobecco's x2.
a0949cdbd683bd3b187bc18987dd3b19.jpg
 

Kenna

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Makes me wonder if it is the black one that is a problem.I have four SS Tobeco's and they all perform flawlessly.
The only difference I notice between my black & SS versions is the airflow is really tight on the black one, & looser & easier to adjust on the SS. I got the black one when the Tobecco's first came out, & the SS on Labor Day. I wonder if they went to a smaller oring on the newer ones. No leaking on either.
 

OhTheAgony

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Makes me wonder if it is the black one that is a problem.I have four SS Tobeco's and they all perform flawlessly.

I've read this entire thread and it does appear that there are more complaints about the black tobeco then the stainless version. But like Kenna's there are also plenty of black ones that function normal so idk what the reason is. Might just be poor Chinese quality control for all I know, with my luck my next SJMY could very well be a lemon too
24462279700_2cc68e3b1d_o.gif
 

Lucky333

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28g kanthall or SS. 2.5mm id. 7/8 wraps for 1.3 ohms kanthall, or 9/10 for 1.1 SS. I use a coiler, so the wraps don't real tight to the rod with 28g but would with maybe 26 guage.

Thanks for reply.

I have 27g kanthall hope it will be good for start. Also I have 26 g clapton wire, not sure if it is too thick for mtl.
Also there is one ss 26g wire but I think it is definitely too much for mtl.
My all other wires are even thicker. I will have too buy some thinner wires to play with kayfun.

Does anyone use nichrome wire these days? Seems that kanthall and ss wires are mainstream currently?
 

Alien Traveler

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Alien Traveler

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Kenna

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Thanks for reply.

I have 27g kanthall hope it will be good for start. Also I have 26 g clapton wire, not sure if it is too thick for mtl.
Also there is one ss 26g wire but I think it is definitely too much for mtl.
My all other wires are even thicker. I will have too buy some thinner wires to play with Kayfun.

Does anyone use nichrome wire these days? Seems that kanthall and ss wires are mainstream currently?
27g should be fine. But I DL on all my KF's. I don't have to slipstream air around the dt on the v5 with the air set on 3 or 4. But if I want to tootle I close air down to 1 or 2. 28g is all I use.
 

Kenna

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I still prefer $15 clone from FT:
$15.17 Kayfun V5 Styled RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer - 5ml / 316 stainless steel / 22mm diameter at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

Recently I removed my leaking SJMY clone from storage and recoiled/rewicked it with a lot of cotton. Now leaks are minimal (when refilling, a drop), but I am still believe to $15 dollar clone more. If not for absence of logo on $15 clone, they are indistinguishable in their machining and overall quality.
You can pretty much eliminate leaks when refilling by closing the juice flow & taking 2-4 hits to use up the remaining juice inside the coil & chamber. Then take the top off & refill, replace top, & open juice flow. I get 0 leaks this way. Not a drop.
 

Kenna

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I have never had even a drop of juice leak on all 5 of mine while refilling,i just shut the jfc fill, reopen and go again.Maybe you are filling to much?
There's a dribble if I don't empty the juice in the chamber, then I have to blow juice out of the air flow holes. I know of others experiencing the same thing, but vaping the juice in the chamber solves it.
 

OhTheAgony

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You can pretty much eliminate leaks when refilling by closing the juice flow & taking 2-4 hits to use up the remaining juice inside the coil & chamber. Then take the top off & refill, replace top, & open juice flow. I get 0 leaks this way. Not a drop.

This is a simple but good procedure to make a habit of imo, I've done this with all of my tanks that have JFC before re-filling it
24639996112_5365340198_o.gif
 
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Dubminer

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There's a dribble if I don't empty the juice in the chamber, then I have to blow juice out of the air flow holes. I know of others experiencing the same thing, but vaping the juice in the chamber solves it.
Is this seeping out of the very bottom or the juice flow holes? The reason i ask is i found when i completely stripped down my 4 tobeco's two of them had the wrong size #5 o ring.It was 5*1.5 mm instead of the correct 7*1.5 mm.I ordered a bunch of the different sizes and have changed them all out.There is a diagram on page 56. I also went up to 11*1 mm on #8 and #11.Now i do not need to turn the jfc anywhere near as much.Not a hint of a leak or a dry hit since.
 

OhTheAgony

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Is this seeping out of the very bottom or the juice flow holes? The reason i ask is i found when i completely stripped down my 4 tobeco's two of them had the wrong size #5 o ring.It was 5*1.5 mm instead of the correct 7*1.5 mm.I ordered a bunch of the different sizes and have changed them all out.There is a diagram on page 56. I also went up to 11*1 mm on #8 and #11.Now i do not need to turn the jfc anywhere near as much.Not a hint of a leak or a dry hit since.

Perhaps I should try this too. Mine doesn't leak as long as I keep it upright, but if it improves the juice flow...
 

Lucky333

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I am vaping on nichrome coil right now, 3mm, 1.3 ohm
$1.87 Pre-Coiled Wires for RBA RDA RTA Rebuildable Atomizers (50-Pack) 50-pack - 29 AWG / 1.3ohm / 0.3mm dia. / 15*15mm leads / 6 loops at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
No difference with kanthal. I just recieved my order from FT, so a few days ago I put in a new coil.

Yeah, I suppose that main difference is that ramp up time is little faster with nichrome.

I'm also currently using nichrome wire because they are in Kanger coils 1.2ohm in Subtank nano. Works pretty good, but hope this Kayfun V5 will blow it away with performance.

So, I might order one nichrome wire as well.
 

Alien Traveler

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You can pretty much eliminate leaks when refilling by closing the juice flow & taking 2-4 hits to use up the remaining juice inside the coil & chamber. Then take the top off & refill, replace top, & open juice flow. I get 0 leaks this way. Not a drop.

I have never had even a drop of juice leak on all 5 of mine while refilling,i just shut the jfc fill, reopen and go again.Maybe you are filling to much?

This is a simple but good procedure to make a habit of imo, I've done this with all of my tanks that have JFC before re-filling it
24639996112_5365340198_o.gif
It is an interesting procedure, good to know.
Anyway, I refill my SJMY clone an hour ago, no leaks. I tend to think that that it was wicking - not enough of cotton.
 

Dubminer

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Perhaps I should try this too. Mine doesn't leak as long as I keep it upright, but if it improves the juice flow...
Before i did this i needed at 3 and a half turns to get a moist vape now 2 is perfect.It is a pain to change them at first,especially #11 but i have done all 4 and it is easy now i have a routine.Somehow my juice flow is a lot better.
 

OhTheAgony

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Before i did this i needed at 3 and a half turns to get a moist vape now 2 is perfect.It is a pain to change them at first,especially #11 but i have done all 4 and it is easy now i have a routine.Somehow my juice flow is a lot better.

It's worth the shot to keep the stylish black look I guess. I'm not too worried about taking it apart and putting it back together again, but I am a little worried about getting all the right o-rings in all the right spots, haha.

I have a couple of complete sets of o-rings for the original K5, those should work right?

My SJMY only needs two turns as well by the way. I used to open it up a lot more but as it happens the logo lines up with the fire-button on the new mod after exactly a turn so I tried it out at two turns on the SMY and it works just fine.
 
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