Barebones SX350 bottom feeder
- Thread starter Alexander Mundy
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Not much time to test this weekend since the wife had lots planned for me I was unaware of. 
I did get to test with .7 ohm & .4 ohm coils a little. Found my scope but my frequency counter is still buried somewhere in the boxes of stuff from the man room. (now daughters bedroom since she moved back in) My scope is old so it doesn't have any bells or whistles and I could only find my precision 5V square wave generator so that is what I used.
With both the .4 ohm and .7 ohm coils I found a sawtooth waveform on the output. It is more pronounced at higher wattages and with the higher ohm coil. I would guess it to be in the range of 750Khz to 1.25Mhz but without my frequency counter I can't narrow it down further. With it set to 5V = 5 full divisions (full screen) on the reticule of the scope it was small enough I couldn't guess the amplitude of the sawtooth. Going to AC input and to the .15V/division scale I would guess it at around .15V with the .7 ohm coil at 30W & .05V at 5W, and .075V with the .4 ohm coil at 30W and .025V at 5W. Again those are not accurate measurements but interpolations on my part.
The display on the board for the output voltage was higher than actual measurements and varied with less difference at lower wattage and lower ohm coil. Max was about .08V and min was about .02V.
With a 3.61V measured unloaded battery voltage it is now showing 3.74V on the board display. Also, it must not poll the battery voltage during firing since it stays at 3.74V during firing even though the battery is dropping from 3.61 to 3.45V during 30W firing of the .4 ohm coil. I saw no ripple at the battery terminals.
Did extensive testing at 30W with the .4 ohm coil (triple braid R41) in an RM2 atty dry without the cap on. The atty got almost too hot to touch and the board was warm but not hot. Of course there is some natural convection cooling for the board, but it is partially enclosed with dense foam against the back inside the DSL filter case.
Conclusion: The output is well filtered and the only complaint I have is the accuracy of the battery voltage displayed. That could just be the board I have, but I do know that another member also tested the battery display vs actual measurement (unloaded) and found the same. The board does not seem to be highly stressed at 30W so I believe the 35W upgrade will not be a problem.
Thats all the time I have for now.
I did get to test with .7 ohm & .4 ohm coils a little. Found my scope but my frequency counter is still buried somewhere in the boxes of stuff from the man room. (now daughters bedroom since she moved back in) My scope is old so it doesn't have any bells or whistles and I could only find my precision 5V square wave generator so that is what I used.
With both the .4 ohm and .7 ohm coils I found a sawtooth waveform on the output. It is more pronounced at higher wattages and with the higher ohm coil. I would guess it to be in the range of 750Khz to 1.25Mhz but without my frequency counter I can't narrow it down further. With it set to 5V = 5 full divisions (full screen) on the reticule of the scope it was small enough I couldn't guess the amplitude of the sawtooth. Going to AC input and to the .15V/division scale I would guess it at around .15V with the .7 ohm coil at 30W & .05V at 5W, and .075V with the .4 ohm coil at 30W and .025V at 5W. Again those are not accurate measurements but interpolations on my part.
The display on the board for the output voltage was higher than actual measurements and varied with less difference at lower wattage and lower ohm coil. Max was about .08V and min was about .02V.
With a 3.61V measured unloaded battery voltage it is now showing 3.74V on the board display. Also, it must not poll the battery voltage during firing since it stays at 3.74V during firing even though the battery is dropping from 3.61 to 3.45V during 30W firing of the .4 ohm coil. I saw no ripple at the battery terminals.
Did extensive testing at 30W with the .4 ohm coil (triple braid R41) in an RM2 atty dry without the cap on. The atty got almost too hot to touch and the board was warm but not hot. Of course there is some natural convection cooling for the board, but it is partially enclosed with dense foam against the back inside the DSL filter case.
Conclusion: The output is well filtered and the only complaint I have is the accuracy of the battery voltage displayed. That could just be the board I have, but I do know that another member also tested the battery display vs actual measurement (unloaded) and found the same. The board does not seem to be highly stressed at 30W so I believe the 35W upgrade will not be a problem.
Thats all the time I have for now.
Thanks OP,
Looks like it will be a nice mod.
I loaded videos from the manufacturer and it does appear that the battery is polled during firing.
Have you tried it in bypass mech mode?
I googled and found the same reports Uk France Italy China etc-- its a nice board, everyone is liking it.
Everyone is dishing on the dna too-- IDK why its also a great board at a very good price if modding..
I think I am gonna keep my hobby modding ol skol with a breaktru 4050 and evercool 08100 mods.. The DNA'ish fancy screen displays do make it temptable but with saying its not polling the batts whats the use then I already know the other info's..
Looks like it will be a nice mod.
I loaded videos from the manufacturer and it does appear that the battery is polled during firing.
Have you tried it in bypass mech mode?
I googled and found the same reports Uk France Italy China etc-- its a nice board, everyone is liking it.
Everyone is dishing on the dna too-- IDK why its also a great board at a very good price if modding..
I think I am gonna keep my hobby modding ol skol with a breaktru 4050 and evercool 08100 mods.. The DNA'ish fancy screen displays do make it temptable but with saying its not polling the batts whats the use then I already know the other info's..
I have tried bypass and it works fine, but no instrument testing. What is appealing to me in relation to the DNA is that this board is a buck as well as boost board. With the DNA I cannot go below battery voltage which is required with certain coils for a good vape. Still won't go to the places my 20 Amp buck will, but it will do all I need for everyday use with the 35 W update.
Installed the 35W update but didn't have time to instrument test, it seems to work fine though. The battery voltage display is now changing when firing so I assume it was a glitch in the initial firmware flash. I also moved the board to the other side of the mod, made it more compact by cutting a slot in the side of the battery cases for the inductor to recess into, cut down the cover, and concealed the wires inside the mod. Still have to attach the cover in some fashion besides the electrical tape I have around it right now.
Anyone know what the new menu item "LINK" is about?
BTW, looking into the flash file I noticed it was apparently created by DfuSe so I assume they are using an STM32 32-bit ARM Cortex MCU.
Anyone know what the new menu item "LINK" is about?
BTW, looking into the flash file I noticed it was apparently created by DfuSe so I assume they are using an STM32 32-bit ARM Cortex MCU.
I just ordered one of these boards, you have GOT to tell me how you did that
Took a chance on bricking it, but fortunately no CRC redundancy check. The menu items like I changed there were extremely simple for someone with a lifetime of electronics, but the boot screens were not. I did however figure out the logos after an all night "can't let this get the best of me" sitting. (wife was out of town) I also figured out the character set format. Both are different and very strange formats, but not difficult once you know the format and assuming you have done any microcontroller flash
BTW, there is no way I am going to get into any details here on the forum for fear of someone accidentally bricking their board (or worse yet messing up the actual programming) and blaming me. Turbo, I'll get a hold of you after I get the program written and debugged.
I would also like to play with that, if you decide to make the program public.
Hex editor, I presume?
And WHERE are people getting these? I think I'm missing all the fun.
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I agree. $55 sounds about right but quantity of 20 is a lot for a hobby type dude to cover. I really like the looks of this and it may indeed wind up being a dna killer, if not then it may at least be a viable alternative, but at such a higher price than the dna it would have to really blow it away for it to be worth 50% more... I've got one coming to check it out, I bet it will be every bit as good as the dna but even still, 50% more $$ ?
I'm sure the price will go down as more shops get them in stock. DNA30s have sold on EBay for up to 120 US.
If the rumors about the next version having tact switches rather than gravity are true, and Dna30 supply continues to be so tight, DNA is in some serious trouble.
If the rumors about the next version having tact switches rather than gravity are true, and Dna30 supply continues to be so tight, DNA is in some serious trouble.
I'm sure the price will go down when they ramp up the production. Probably or maybe even hopefully the first badges gone out to someone manufacturing a lot of mods to be released soon.
Is there any way to avoid and not use the tilting gravity sensor crap? Can you wire in switches to make left/right adjustments instead of tilting ?? The tilting is whats stopping me personally.
Yihicigar indicated that they will add the option for +/- buttons if a customer wants the option. So "on request" but I guess that requires a rather large order. But possibly they'll add it for mod makers, or switch altogether to this. We'll have to wait and see.
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