Battery Info for the Chuck

[esdel]

Overall it's a better choice because of the C rating difference between ultra's and AW. However, the UF will last a little longer per charge, and depending on your choice of atomizer, would affect how well it works under stress.

As far as the data given for the AW 2200mAh, it's the safest performer.

As far as what we know about the UF 3000mAh, it, given the correct mAh, would be the longest performer, but depending on battery stress could vent/lose recharge cycles over time. Making the AW a more versatile choice in the long run.

I've already ordered the AW 18650 2200mAh for my big chuck when it comes in, I prefer a reliable solution over a theoretically worst case scenario, but that's the pessimist in me. Some folks use the UF 3k version and have no problems, while having their battery life last for 2 days.

I bought 4 of the UF 3k several months ago. One was DOA. The others have performed well; I get about 2 days' vaping from them. However, one of them is now performing poorly. I think it's not holding a charge. I'm recharging it one more time and if it doesn't work, it's a goner. I think I'll try the AW 2200; thanks for your help.

 

[Drozd]

Overall it's a better choice because of the C rating difference between ultra's and AW. However, the UF will last a little longer per charge, and depending on your choice of atomizer, would affect how well it works under stress.

As far as the data given for the AW 2200mAh, it's the safest performer.

As far as what we know about the UF 3000mAh, it, given the correct mAh, would be the longest performer, but depending on battery stress could vent/lose recharge cycles over time. Making the AW a more versatile choice in the long run.

I've already ordered the AW 18650 2200mAh for my big chuck when it comes in, I prefer a reliable solution over a theoretically worst case scenario, but that's the pessimist in me. Some folks use the UF 3k version and have no problems, while having their battery life last for 2 days.

Thats the thing when we get to the 18650 batteries...and UF versus AW...in this size class the higher mAh does make a difference..
UF(3000mAh) max drain rate is 4.5A
AW(2200mAh) max drain rate is 4.4A
so given that you want as high of mAh as you can get cuz that'll translate directly into time...

at 3.7V
with a LR atty (1.5Ω) your amp draw is 2.47
UF:
2470/3000=.82C -> 60/.82=72.9min or 4374sec
AW:
2470/2200=1.12C -> 60/1.12= 53.43min or 3205sec

with a joye 510 atty (2.3Ω) amp draw is 1.61
UF:
1610/3000=.54C -> 60/.54=111min or 6666sec
AW:
1610/2200=.73C -> 60/.73= 82.19min or 4931sec

with a turbo cartomizer (3.1Ω) amp draw is 1.19
UF:
1190/3000=.40C -> 60/.40=150min or 9000sec
AW:
1190/2200=.54C -> 60/.54= 111min or 6666sec

So if the UF 3000 were true to their numbers they'd beat out the AW...

but here's where the devils advocacy comes in....seems that opinions on the truefire and ultrafires is that they're really a lottery whether or not you're gonna get good ones or duds...
and the 3000mAh UF...they're more like 2400mAh:
as noted here: LiIon 18650 battery comparison - CandlePowerForums

*also note that the Grey Trustfire 2400 is the one that has the most variance in capacity

 

[quakereject]

Now I don't want to seem stupid, but green = fully charged, yes? Or does it vary by charger.. this one came without the idiot guide (see: manual) so I can't be 100% since I'm not in possession of my chuck just yet and don't know where my multimeter is.

 

[DiscoStu]

i got my red 3000 mah protected surefire batts and charger a few days ago from lighthouse a few days ago, took a lil over an hour to charge em and banish them to my drawer, lol. Checked em w a meter a sec ago, showing a solid 4.2 volts!

 

[DjSaneR]

Ok, I ordered the Big Chuck.. I'm a little confused about the batteries. I ordered these batteries .. Will these work?

 

[jeffakamax]

Ok, I ordered the Big Chuck.. I'm a little confused about the batteries. I ordered these batteries .. Will these work?

Those will work for 6v vaping.

these for 3.7v vaping. http://www.madvapes.com/Protected-18650-Battery-3000-mah_p_2094.html

 

[DjSaneR]

Those will work for 6v vaping.

these for 3.7v vaping. Protected 18650 Battery, 3000 mah

Excellent, so if I were to vape @ 3.7 I would just use one of those? Would it need some sort of adapter?

BTW, the batteries I bought are rechargeable, right? Sorry, if these are such newb questions.

 

[grabeard]

Excellent, so if I were to vape @ 3.7 I would just use one of those? Would it need some sort of adapter?

BTW, the batteries I bought are rechargeable, right? Sorry, if these are such newb questions.

They are rechargeable, the RCR means rechargeable. With the 18650 you only need 1 at a time in a big chuck, but need 2 so you can always have 1 charging while you use the other 1.

 

[DjSaneR]

Great, thank you!

 

[quakereject]

So I'm obviously mathtarded, I tried to figure out the Watts produced by 2 of the AW LiFePo4 3v batts on the mega carto from Nhaler, which runs at 3.4Ω but I keep getting figures that are too low to make sense.

Anyone know this? Trying to figure if these hit the sweet spot better than the earlier figures Drozd offered forth.

Nevermind, I truly am ......ed. Seems to be the Watts are 10.58-11.30 depending on peak output so it's right in the perfect spot at 10.58 with the nhaler mega cartos.

UNLESS I DID IT WRONG AGAIN. Which is entirely possible.

 

[DjSaneR]

Ok, I ordered the Big Chuck.. I'm a little confused about the batteries. I ordered these batteries .. Will these work?

I got back from vacation and was happy to see that my Chuck had arrived. I popped in two 3v batteries but they didn't work. I tried another pair, but it still didn't work. Luckily I had a 3.7 battery that I popped in, which worked without a hitch. Do I need some sort of sleeve to use the 3v batteries? I tested all 4 batteries with a multimeter and they are definitely good batteries.

 

[quakereject]

Shouldn't no, what are the 3v that you have?

 

[DjSaneR]

Shouldn't no, what are the 3v that you have?

I bought these

 

[quakereject]

Well, as unlikely as it might be.. it's entirely possible the PCB is kicking in on the UF's before you can get a full drag in.

Might want to try different batteries, as undesirable as that might sound since you've already dropped enough on the ultrafires. That would be my next move, but you could drop a line to Jeff and see what input he might have.

 

[DjSaneR]

Well, as unlikely as it might be.. it's entirely possible the PCB is kicking in on the UF's before you can get a full drag in.

Might want to try different batteries, as undesirable as that might sound since you've already dropped enough on the ultrafires. That would be my next move, but you could drop a line to Jeff and see what input he might have.

Not sure what that means but thanks, I sent him a couple of emails and just waiting back on his reply.

 

[quakereject]

Not sure what that means but thanks, I sent him a couple of emails and just waiting back on his reply.

PCB protection, when it works, and to my knowledge from this and other threads, will stop the batteries from discharging. So if you hit the button and the PCB trips (basically PCB = protected circuit breaker) and shazaam, no power.

Though I'm pretty certain people who own chucks use those same batts. I use the LiFePo4 AW's, same size, no pcb since they're "safe chemistry".


What kind of atomizer did you have on there for the 6v setup?

 

[DjSaneR]

PCB protection, when it works, and to my knowledge from this and other threads, will stop the batteries from discharging. So if you hit the button and the PCB trips (basically PCB = protected circuit breaker) and shazaam, no power.

Though I'm pretty certain people who own chucks use those same batts. I use the LiFePo4 AW's, same size, no pcb since they're "safe chemistry".


What kind of atomizer did you have on there for the 6v setup?

I tried 4 different 510 attys

 

[DjSaneR]

PCB protection, when it works, and to my knowledge from this and other threads, will stop the batteries from discharging. So if you hit the button and the PCB trips (basically PCB = protected circuit breaker) and shazaam, no power.

So does that mean that all 4 of my batteries are no good? No way to reset the breaker?

 

[quakereject]

Reset them by throwing them back on the charger. The PCB is continuous, but if you try to use them and it always trips, I don't know how much good they're going to be to you.


HOWEVER, that is a worst case scenario situation, none of the atties were LR were they?

 

[DjSaneR]

Reset them by throwing them back on the charger. The PCB is continuous, but if you try to use them and it always trips, I don't know how much good they're going to be to you.


HOWEVER, that is a worst case scenario situation, none of the atties were LR were they?

I tried putting them back in the charger but still no luck. I'm not sure if the Atty's are LR. I bought the standard 510 kit from Cignot.com, so whatever comes with those are the ones I've been trying.