Battery Info & Safety Sticky
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I thought the whole point of a hot spring was to drop the battery so it no longer makes a connection. If that is the case, the ledge defeats the purpose as there is no where for the battery to drop to in order to break the connection 
sense Field" data-source="post: 6935637" class="bbCodeBlock bbCodeBlock--expandable bbCodeBlock--quote js-expandWatch">sense Field said:Redesign
Dude, the spring isn't part of the circuit, nor is it in contact with the battery in your drawing. Making it a hot spring is useless.
ETA, it's worse than useless, it's dangerous. If the spring is providing tension for the firing button, when it goes away there's nothing to prevent a short if it's standing up.
I thought the whole point of a hot spring was to drop the battery so it no longer makes a connection. If that is the case, the ledge defeats the purpose as there is no where for the battery to drop to in order to break the connection
This is why reviewsers shouldn't design PVs. Leave it to the engineers, and even then they sometimes get it wrong
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To create a failure point that acts similarly to a hot spring would require that the pin in the switch fail to be retracted so it doesn't make contact with the battery. While I'm pretty sure this could be engineered... I don't think it could be done where the replacement switch/cap would be cheaper than the previously suggested add-on fuse which are already available. ( 2 cent fuse as one example )
I think adding the venting as is already being worked on... then offer an additional fuse that can be placed in-line with the battery and you've addressed the two main issues that were brought up without incurring a lot more expense in engineering or in the replacement piece that is meant as a safety failure point.
I think adding the venting as is already being worked on... then offer an additional fuse that can be placed in-line with the battery and you've addressed the two main issues that were brought up without incurring a lot more expense in engineering or in the replacement piece that is meant as a safety failure point.
True. The only way I could see, given a mechanical switch that could possibly jam in the on position, is to make the firing pin itself a fuse, where the pin itself melts. An electrical fuse is definately the way to go with this kind of mod.
LordDavon: Oh, would you drill the same holes into the lock? I think they should line up okay, since the treading is already set.
Yes, I'm thinking of drilling the holes from the inside of the cap with the threaded firing-pin lock fully threaded into the normal on' position. This will ensure that the holes in the bottom cap and the threaded firing-pin lock will line up.
LordDavon: Also, what would happen if the button is pushed in during this event?
As long as the Telescope tubes are sufficiently tightened, the firing-pin is prevented (by the battery) from being pushed in all the way. Thus, there should always be a sufficient amount of clearance for the gas to expel.
LordDavon: Do you think that the cotter pin would hold up when this occurs, to keep the button in place?
Assuming that the upper atomizer connection housing would not give way first, the only way that I think that the firing-pin could be expelled is if there was enough top-end pressure (from the gas expelling out the positive end of the battery) to push the battery down far enough to force the pin out.
dannoman: A hot spring may not really apply here as a safety measure. The spring in the Telescope does not complete the circuit and thus fire the mod, its the firing pin.
Right. It would need to be a hot pin rather than a hot spring; or even a pin with a small hot spring on the tip of the pin that made the contact with the battery. This would only require a modest shortening of the present pin to implement. Nonetheless, as others have suggested, a fuse (whether it be a 2 cent, a ShortStop, or some other variation) can essentially serve the same purpose.
dannoman: As far as the positioning of the vent holes, I wasn't told EXACTLY, only that it would be in the tube, not the bottom cap. I imagine this is because they ARE using a certain amount of glue for the spring and putting venting holes in the bottom cap would have the glue as an obstruction for venting...
Where I'm thinking of drilling holes is around the perimeter of the c-clip that holds in the firing-pin. My Telescope has no glue there - unless it is located underneath the surface that the c-clip rests upon.
Yes, I'm thinking of drilling the holes from the inside of the cap with the threaded firing-pin lock fully threaded into the normal on' position. This will ensure that the holes in the bottom cap and the threaded firing-pin lock will line up.
LordDavon: Also, what would happen if the button is pushed in during this event?
As long as the Telescope tubes are sufficiently tightened, the firing-pin is prevented (by the battery) from being pushed in all the way. Thus, there should always be a sufficient amount of clearance for the gas to expel.
LordDavon: Do you think that the cotter pin would hold up when this occurs, to keep the button in place?
Assuming that the upper atomizer connection housing would not give way first, the only way that I think that the firing-pin could be expelled is if there was enough top-end pressure (from the gas expelling out the positive end of the battery) to push the battery down far enough to force the pin out.
dannoman: A hot spring may not really apply here as a safety measure. The spring in the Telescope does not complete the circuit and thus fire the mod, its the firing pin.
Right. It would need to be a hot pin rather than a hot spring; or even a pin with a small hot spring on the tip of the pin that made the contact with the battery. This would only require a modest shortening of the present pin to implement. Nonetheless, as others have suggested, a fuse (whether it be a 2 cent, a ShortStop, or some other variation) can essentially serve the same purpose.
dannoman: As far as the positioning of the vent holes, I wasn't told EXACTLY, only that it would be in the tube, not the bottom cap. I imagine this is because they ARE using a certain amount of glue for the spring and putting venting holes in the bottom cap would have the glue as an obstruction for venting...
Where I'm thinking of drilling holes is around the perimeter of the c-clip that holds in the firing-pin. My Telescope has no glue there - unless it is located underneath the surface that the c-clip rests upon.
put the hot spring in the top half and recess the button mechanism so that it doesn't fire if you put a button top battery in upside down
I had thought about this as another possible solution but this is a telescoping mod and you could tighten the telescoping portion to a point where the top spring is completely compressed and no way for it to break the circuit at that point.
mmm I guess I didn't really think of that I wish I had 1 hand so I can play with it. I wonder if you could insulate the center pin from the end cap in such a way that the existing spring has to carry the current...
This is why reviewsers shouldn't design PVs. Leave it to the engineers, and even then they sometimes get it wrong
That diagram is simular to the P+...I know it works in the P+...just saying.
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I can currently do this with mine...which is why it needs some sort of a ledge for the battery to sit on. Of course...you would use a rubber washer to keep the metal ledge from touching the actual battery.
I'm assuming you mean the precision plus from Super-T... if so...
The P+ is a fixed length mod, this is a telescoping mod without fixed end points except as defined by how far the tube is screwed together which can only be controlled/defined by the length of the battery itself and not the tube...
I see what SF is saying, if the HotSpring is made to be part of the circuit, then the HotSpring will work. With that, I agree. I am not sure how a ledge will work, unless the Telescope is designed for a single battery size though.
I do have another idea on how this could work, but my drawing will suck. Although, I'm going to try.
I do have another idea on how this could work, but my drawing will suck. Although, I'm going to try.
Wouldn't you consider the bottom as fixed and the top and adjustable?
So wouldn't that mean that it would still work?
We should invite ScubaDan to help with this...he's working on a similar telescopic mod called the 300.
Okay. Here it goes. Click on the image for a bigger view.
Basically, it takes the trigger, and moves it's circuit connection internally. There will be two springs, the hotspring on the outside, connecting the negative of the battery, and one inside the base of the unit, that works the trigger. When you push on the trigger, it completes the circuit in the base of the unit.
This also takes care of my biggest issue with the Telescope, which is over-tightening can cause it to complete the circuit.
Basically, it takes the trigger, and moves it's circuit connection internally. There will be two springs, the hotspring on the outside, connecting the negative of the battery, and one inside the base of the unit, that works the trigger. When you push on the trigger, it completes the circuit in the base of the unit.
This also takes care of my biggest issue with the Telescope, which is over-tightening can cause it to complete the circuit.
Both sides/ends have to be fixed in order that a spring be used as a failure point... In otherwords... you can't have the spring itself be able to be completely compressed by an adjustable side or it becomes ineffective.
That man is a genius with these things, and is an awesome idea.
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