Billit Aluminum Sub Ohm Bottom Feeder Beast!

[carbonbegone]

Sweet unit, nicely done.
Consider finishing it with ' engine turning ' finish, guessing THATS not been done before on a mod ..

Longish how-to vid, you likely already know how to do it .
Jeweling Aluminum! How-To Video Tutorial for a Great Looking Surface Finish! - YouTube

 

[asdaq]

Sweet unit, nicely done.
Consider finishing it with ' engine turning ' finish, guessing THATS not been done before on a mod ..

Longish how-to vid, you likely already know how to do it .
Jeweling Aluminum! How-To Video Tutorial for a Great Looking Surface Finish! - YouTube

I think even some commercially available mods have this, but I did the bottoms of a few mods in brass this way:

I vote polishing it to a shine to get the surface as exact as possible and then bead blast it to minimize the effect of scratches later on.

 

[carbonbegone]

I should have known, theres little new under the sun in the modding world.

 

[asdaq]

No worries, there must be some new ideas out there.

Here's even a DNA Billet Box with engine turning:

 

[Tbev]

@ asdaq - I like the bottom of that a lot, I also like that right out of the mill look, isbeen thrown on the ground a couple times, can't tell, it chipped the sidewalk.

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk

 

[carbonbegone]

Type 3 anodizing is luxurious - a bit overkill for a vaping gadget I suppose, cost more than the mod & the color choices are uninspiring.
It'll never, ever scratch though ..

 

[Tbev]

I thought about that, everyone seems to like all the different colors available on some of the other bf's available but I think working the pure metal is a tougher look, may just be me... I like the swirl from decking each side personally, I think I'm gonna bblast the bottom and see how I like that.

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk

 

[Tbev]

Been running a 0.7 ohm dual coil build.... Quite a bit higher than I'd like but I'm learning to squalk or whatever. . . Still no problems with prototype number 1
.

 

[Tbev]

Twisted 28ga dual coils netting 0.33ohm... Been running for last 3-4 days, 30mls of juice, no problem. Wicked vape, unexpected flavor.

 

[Tbev]

I just set up a Nimbus with dual twisted 28ga coils netting 0.45 ohm... I'm very happy with it. This Nimbus used to be the gold one but I media blasted it down to a really kick ... finish, I think it looks great, it sure works great and is not moated like the igo is.

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk

 

[Tbev]

Sporting the custom media blasted Nimbus

 

[Tbev]

Here's a couple shots of different finishing options..

Here's a piece that has been pushed to a fairly decent mirror finish, as you can see it reflects the cloth

Here's the media blasted finish, matches the Nimbus.

 

[Tbev]

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk

 

[Visus]

Nice mod but how do change juice and batteries? If have to screw top off, ya need to make a trap door or on board charging but still the juice, that would be so annoying to me after a few batt/juice changes..

 

[Tbev]

Yeah that's the main thing I'm waiting on, parts for a screw in plug basically that will go on the bottom, battery side so you can remove the battery without taking the top off.
It's a 15ml juice bottle so don't have to worry about that very often.
I'm also thinking about a hole that will house an on board screwdriver.
I could just hold it together with magnets but I think that's cheesy and I don't want to take away from the durability or connectivity. The voltage drop results are so good I don't know if they can stay as low of only magnets hold it together but I might do magnets and screws so you have the option to leave the screws out.

The battery will be removable thru the bottom tho.

What do you think?

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk

 

[Visus]

What do I think?

Its awesome lol

 

[asdaq]

The trap door gives me an idea. If you have a battery spring then the magnets have to battle the spring, and more screws you still need tools to open it.

So, how about continuing the holes down through the bottom and have a single thick plate on the bottom that rotates on a single center screw, tight enough to not be loose. If there is enough space through the center to the top it would be even more secure, but you could tap for a shorter screw and use a small o-ring on the screw for tension and to prevent wear on the aluminum.

If a flush rectangular plate does not allow the battery/bottle to pass when opened, there could be opposing semi-circle cutouts on the plate or something shaped like a figure 8. The plate thickness is to not bend, but also to countersink everything so that it is still flat on the bottom.

Any of this sound reasonable?

2x on the awesome part BTW.

 

[Tbev]

There's no spring on the bottom of the battery, the hole is drilled then milled out to fit with a dome at the bottom as to contact the middle but as much as possible, then I have, well currently anyway, a brass bar that has been taken down, shaped, annealed, slit and soldiered to the 510 across to the button.
If I ran 1 center screw it would be in the way the bar is as wide as the button and the 510 connector.


Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk

 

[asdaq]

Ah, I figured it couldn't run the whole length. Partially might work though?

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

 

[Tbev]

OK so I've been going from igo to Nimbus and back n forth and I think I prefer the smaller igo cap for sure.
I am a big genny fan and I have 5 pulse gennys, with reducers and they have way better flavor than a steam turbine, kraken, or ten others, dual coil or whatever setup, I always favor the single coil pulse with the reducer... By far...
So come to find out the diameter of the Nimbus and igo are the same but the Nimbus cap has 3X the space, it's taller, and I think the thing sticks compared to the igo.
What do you guys think I'm trying to decide if I make a batch of feeders if I'm going to offer an atty, which one, etc....

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk