Billit Aluminum Sub Ohm Bottom Feeder Beast!

[flexsr]

Beautiful mod and work. May i ask what material you used for your firing pin - thing thst touches the battery to complete the circuit - i think its called firing pin.

You must be feeling on cloud 9 and vaping on cloud 9

I assume you planning on selling to the public - that doesnt look like a hobby mod lol

 

[Wickeddeuce]

honestly as far as what rebuildable... i couldnt tell you... main purpose of this set up in my mind is to hold the larger attys, i mean the number one difference between this and the REO is that this is big enough that pretty much any atty will fit on it (from the looks) and not hang over edges....

the larger juice bottle, everything else, is just extra features... all that said again i like it...

 

[flexsr]

- that's beautiful work and and great looking/performing PV . and thanks for knowledge on the conductivity of the parts - I was very curious

I can't even fathom the trial and error and brain power involved with yours or anybody's mod - but I am part and partial to bottom feeders - honestly don't know how people vape without them- I love them - yours look amazing - if need some beta testers ummmm........ Lol.... Well whatever you decide to do it seems awesome !! Keep us posted

 

[Tbev]

Thanks guys, much appreciated! When I started I made sense to me that bottom feeding was the way to go I have every kind of mod tank and atty imaginable and have run every setup anyone could every dream up, and now that I've been using this BF with, to date I've gone thru 3 different attys on it with 7 to 10 builds each, and 30mls juice/day with it, I've officially determined that it's the best so far that vaping has to offer. Well that's bold but I think I'm right. I just set out to make every aspect as good as it could be, using any materials available.
I put a Helio on it and it will keep the atty off the ground when on its side, that's my main concern as far as size goes, the Helio is thick, large diameter.

The biggest thing to me was to make it tough, not drop off a couch tough, but run over with a truck tuff...keeping it small, and running as low ohm as you want, definitely pop batteries before anything gets close to messing up with it.

Thanks again for the kind words!

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk

 

[Wickeddeuce]

Thanks guys, much appreciated! When I started I made sense to me that bottom feeding was the way to go I have every kind of mod tank and atty imaginable and have run every setup anyone could every dream up, and now that I've been using this BF with, to date I've gone thru 3 different attys on it with 7 to 10 builds each, and 30mls juice/day with it, I've officially determined that it's the best so far that vaping has to offer. Well that's bold but I think I'm right. I just set out to make every aspect as good as it could be, using any materials available.
I put a Helio on it and it will keep the atty off the ground when on its side, that's my main concern as far as size goes, the Helio is thick, large diameter.

The biggest thing to me was to make it tough, not drop off a couch tough, but run over with a truck tuff...keeping it small, and running as low ohm as you want, definitely pop batteries before anything gets close to messing up with it.

Thanks again for the kind words!

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk

well well well i am glad to hear that its coming through quite nicely...

can you take a pic of the innards? even if you just pm it to me, just curious how it looks inside...

 

[Tbev]

I built a new top cap, it's aluminum and it's dope, 22mm for the igol and Nimbus (the are usually life 18 or something way smaller, with much less space inside the cap, effectively reducing the chamber size, I'll pose pics tomorrow.

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[flexsr]

Great stuff!

 

[Tbev]

Sorry for the delay, here are some pics with a 22mm atty.
This is actually a 22mm Od. Cap I made that fits the igol and Nimbus, it has a smaller internal space and creates quite a bit better vape that the Nimbus cap or igo cap due to the reduced space.

I stepped the cap so it fits over the deck of the atty and sits flush on the deck of the mod. I think it looks sweet like that, I left the cap very plain just BC I was in a hurry and couldn't decide what to do with it as far as looks go, I'm be playing with it more.

There is a slight gap in these lousy quality pics, BC I didn't polish the inside steps of the cap and cut the Oring on the atty. It does sit perfectly flush and looks cool, I think anyways..

The body is just wide enough to keep a 22mm atty from hitting the ground while on its side.

 

[MoBayRasta]

I am so in love with this mod. It is beautiful, simply elegant and gorgeous!

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[edyle]

Billit Aluminum Sub Ohm Bottom Feeder Beast!

Topic has me wondering what the meaning of "Sub Ohm" is.

I take it "Sub Ohm" here is more like a vague status symbol or something?

 

[Obsiden]

It means the device is able to go below 1.0 ohm resistance without damaging the device

 

[Tbev]

So I now I get to brag about the specs. I ran a voltage drop test, 3 tests, results are as follows :
0.17
0.19
0.25
This is measured at the atty with a 0.45 ohm single coil (twisted 28ga. pictured below)

I believe these are pretty respectable numbers right...?

As far as sub ohm goes, I built this device to handle extraneous usage on a daily basis. I typically run other mods at 0.5 0hm and I have to let them cool off between hits and they get hot at the button or something.

I have been running this mod @ 0.33ohm for a month and a half, same build / 15ml per day. That's pretty hard, and it takes it like a champ. The lowest build I've put on it was 0.17 ohm and it's no difference as far as the device having any trouble. I can't recommend this of course but the thing is for lack of a better term , over engineered.

 

[edyle]

It means the device is able to go below 1.0 ohm resistance without damaging the device

What mech gets damaged by a coil resistance below 1.0 ohm?

If it can work at 0.9 ohm but fries at 0.8 ohm does that make it sub ohm?
- logically yes but since it seems more a case of illogic:
- if not then is it supposed to work down to 0.1 ohm? 0.01 ohm? 0.001 ohm.......

 

[edyle]

As far as sub ohm goes, I built this device to handle extraneous usage on a daily basis. I typically run other mods at 0.5 0hm and I have to let them cool off between hits and they get hot at the button or something.

I have been running this mod @ 0.33ohm for a month and a half, same build / 15ml per day. That's pretty hard, and it takes it like a champ. The lowest build I've put on it was 0.17 ohm and it's no difference as far as the device having any trouble. I can't recommend this of course but the thing is for lack of a better term , over engineered.

Ah, ok, so it doesn't get hot like other mods when you use low ohm subohm coils; handles subohm very well; gotcha.

 

[Tbev]

I'm talking about using low sub ohm ( 0.5 ohm to 0.17 ohm) below 0.3ohm is really lower than you really want to go, your thinking 1.0, I'm saying 0.17, that's stupid low and the max for the best battery available.
0.15ohm is max danger level for the best available battery, in short bursts. At this point your almost at a dead short, and you have to also take into account the tolerances, degree of error in your meter or measuring equipment as well.

Besides is a crappy vape, your flavor goes away and it's hot. Like I said I can't recommend going below like 0.4ohm, but I wanted a device that wouldn't be at the limits of its capabilities going as low as possible with the best available Batteries, nothing close is available, so I made my own.

It also holds way more liquid and you can run it over with a truck, has been done, came even tell it happened. The device is a result of high standards, unlimited resources and some heavy brain usage.

 

[edyle]

I'm talking about using low sub ohm ( 0.5 ohm to 0.17 ohm) below 0.3ohm is really lower than you really want to go, your thinking 1.0, I'm saying 0.17, that's stupid low and the max for the best battery available.
0.15ohm is max danger level for the best available battery, in short bursts. At this point your almost at a dead short, and you have to also take into account the tolerances, degree of error in your meter or measuring equipment as well.

Besides is a crappy vape, your flavor goes away and it's hot. Like I said I can't recommend going below like 0.4ohm, but I wanted a device that wouldn't be at the limits of its capabilities going as low as possible with the best available Batteries, nothing close is available, so I made my own.

It also holds way more liquid and you can run it over with a truck, has been done, came even tell it happened. The device is a result of high standards, unlimited resources and some heavy brain usage.

btw, nice solid looking box.

and it's besides the point but since you brought this up:

At this point your almost at a dead short

I just gotta ask:
Question: what would be your:
(a) definitioin
or if none - which is what I expect:
(b) opinion
of that dead short you mentioned?

I mean why would 0.15 ohm be almost a dead short but not 0.3 ohm

- related note:
you mentioned you ran it at 0.17 ohm; I'm guessing the voltage drop was about 1 volt or more; do you know if that's correct?

 

[Tbev]

Dead short is like running a crowbar across the terminals on a car battery, basically running the + to the - of a battery straight together with nothing inline to use or expelled the energy. Look up battery, voltage faq, there are some helpful stickies In the battery section.
A dead short will cause your battery to vent and in most pv's melt or at least screw up something, I built this one to be quite a bit stronger than the best batteries available, is made specifically for Sony VTC'S.
VDrop generally gets higher the lower ohms your atty is running, that's why those numbers besides being fantastic are even better while using such a low ohm build.

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk

 

[edyle]

Dead short is like running a crowbar across the terminals on a car battery, basically running the + to the - of a battery straight together with nothing inline to use or expelled the energy. Look up battery, voltage faq, there are some helpful stickies In the battery section.
A dead short will cause your battery to vent and in most pv's melt or at least screw up something, I built this one to be quite a bit stronger than the best batteries available, is made specifically for Sony VTC'S.
VDrop generally gets higher the lower ohms your atty is running, that's why those numbers besides being fantastic are even better while using such a low ohm build.

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk

Sorry, I should have specified more exactly the question:

Thev said: At this point your almost at a dead short

Question: what OHMS would be your:
(a) definitioin
or if none - which is what I expect:
(b) opinion
of that dead short you mentioned?


I'm guessing again what your answers might possibly be:
1) it's when something bad happens ("A dead short will cause your battery to vent")
2) 0.000* ("*" means recurring "0" forever)
3) there is no specific value but 0.15 ohms is almost a dead short for the Sony VTC battery.

 

[Tbev]

A dead short is no Resistance, it doesn't have anything to do with what kind of battery that's why I used a car battery as an example. 0.15ohm is the lowest Resistance, due to the resulting amp draw, for a Sony vtc series battery, the most powerful and highest amp draw battery available in an 18650 sized 3.7v battery.
0.0 ohms, or no resistance is what I would call a dead short, this will possibly screw up most mods, this process causes venting, which is why mod have vent holes to minimize the damage by letting gasses released by battery to escape vs. Build pressure and explode.
Here are some things you should familiarize yourself with before getting into rebuilding.
Google define dead short :a short circuit having no resistance.
Find battery faq on ecf.

The point in the case of my device is that it will tolerate lower ohm builds better than anyone can take, to their lungs, and not be stressing the device as would be the case of just about any available pv's.

 

[edyle]

Fwd short is no Resistance, hold on I'll get a better explanation, it doesn't have anything ti do with what kind of battery that's why I used a car battery as an example. 0.15ohm is the lowest Resistance, due to the resulting amp draw for a Sony vtc series battery, the most powerful and highest amp draw battery available in an 18650 sized 3.7v battery.
0.0 ohms, or no resistance is what I would call a dead short, this will need up most mods, this process causes venting, which is why mod have vent holes to minimize the damage by letting gasses released by battery to escape vs. Build pressure and explode.
Here are some things you should familiarize yourself with before getting into rebuilding.
Google define dead short :a short circuit having no resistance.
Find battery faq on ecf.

The point in the case of my device is that it will tolerate lower ohm builds better than anyone can take, to their lungs, and not be stressing the device as would be the case of just about any available pv's.

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There we go:

0.0 ohms, or no resistance is what I would call a dead short

Which I interpret you really mean to say:
0.000*

because 0.0 ohms in terms of significant figures/scientific notion would mean anywhere from +0.04999* to -0.04999*.
But of course the only thing that actually has absolute zero ohms is really a superconductor which so far we have only been able to make and use at very low subzero temperatures.

I feel pretty sure that you would agree that 0.001 ohm qualifies as a dead short on a Sony VTC battery.

AH! You produced a usable definition:

due to the resulting amp draw for a Sony vtc series battery

THAT would be a real definition:
So using 30amps, and I'll just use 4 volts for ease of numbers
v=ir
r=4/30= 0.13 ohms

In conclusion: a Practical Definition of what constitutes a short on a battery is:
Battery volts / Battery Amp rating.