Boxer Mod Dual 18650 Yihi 350J
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I was wondering about that little thing. I couldn't find anything online about it so I did what any sane, normal person would do... left it out, crossed my fingers and hoped it wouldn't blow upCouple DIY notes after a chat with GV:
(1) The SX350J board comes with an extra .10 microFarad capacitor (marked "104"), which can be used if you want to replace the switch for the fire button. Toss it, keep it, but you don't need it for the Boxer.
(2) If you mess up the magnets, the only fix is to buy a new door. So make sure to do it right or it'll be a costly mistake.
. What I did with the door magnets is stacked them all up. I put a drop of glue in each magnet hole and used needle nose pliers to press the magnets in one by one and then slide it off to the side so the magnet doesn't pull out. Keep track of the orientation and then reverse it when you do insert them into the body.
The first DNA40 mod I built, I forgot to take the screen protector off. I had to rip everything out and re-do it
. I only make big mistakes like that once. Maybe twice. I remembered on the Boxer 
.
You can use it for charging if batteries are in parallel, but it's not recommended to use it that way. USB generally does not handle well the stress of being repeatedly plugged/unplugged or having lateral stress applied to it. Micro USB is definitely an improvement compared to earlier USB, but USB-C looks to finally be a much more robust connector.
If batteries are in series, you should not use the USB for charging.
A buddy of mine just quit vaping and he's got a LUC V4 for me. I don't think charging 18650s at 2 amps is a good idea, though haha. I'll stick to 1 amp.
The USB is designed to be used as a chip update/upgrade port by Yihi.
Not as a charger. It would be horribly slow anyway.
Not as a charger. It would be horribly slow anyway.
Free Luc. Nice! Another great charger is the Xtar VP4. I own 2
Max charging rates for 18650's I use (LG HE2 and Samsung 25r) is 4a so 2a isn't that bad. I'll be charging my batteries at .5a or 1a most of the time but it's nice to have the option to charge my batteries in an hour.
No reason you can't use a 1S or 2S lipo.
He's mentioned the idea of doing a DNA200 mod, which would require a LiPo pack. If so, it'll probably be a totally new design. One just can't cram a LiPo into an enclosure, like one can do with 18650s, if it's going to be safe. Also, plastic Nylon isn't a great material for protecting a LiPo, compared to something like Noryl N190X-701.
With LiPos, if you have a short circuit that can lead to a fire. 3mm of Noryl is enough to get UL94 5VA (the highest standard for fire safety). Plastic Nylon in the same thickness gets you UL94 HB, the lowest standard. That's why commercial battery packs use stuff like Noryl.
@KTMRider did you strip the wires on the board a bit more than they already are? I'm afraid to... If I mess that up, it's all over.
At least my battery contacts are done and look good lol.
At least my battery contacts are done and look good lol.
Yeah I need some of those fancy alligator clip stands... I'm doing a lot of wishing for a third hand.
Just got done cleaning solder off of my stuck together 510... back to trying to do that...
Just got done cleaning solder off of my stuck together 510... back to trying to do that...
I built it.
Amazon.com: SE 8019AC12 12-Piece Alligator Clip: Home Improvement
Amazon.com: Generic GEN09015 Plastic Flexible Water Oil Coolant Pipe Hose, 6-Pack: Home Improvement
Core Bamboo™ 11 1/2-Inch L x 13-Inch Cutting Board - BedBathandBeyond.com
I drilled and tapped the cutting board with a 1/2-20.
I had the same issue with the 510. I used a solder sucker but solder braid probably would've worked better. The VT 510 is much easier to work with.
With LiPos, if you have a short circuit that can lead to a fire. 3mm of Noryl is enough to get UL94 5VA (the highest standard for fire safety). Plastic Nylon in the same thickness gets you UL94 HB, the lowest standard. That's why commercial battery packs use stuff like Noryl.
Wasnt aware of those standards, Thanks for the Info!
Eric
I WAS aware of them but don't have any.
I definitely bit off more than I could chew here. Seeing the DIY kit, thinking "I can solder, I'll save some money!" No... they make no mention of the required tools, know how, and time. I live in an apartment so having anything more than a basic tool kit is far fetched.
Anyway, I just got done doing the 510 washer. It was so absurdly difficult I thought it was impossible.
I definitely bit off more than I could chew here. Seeing the DIY kit, thinking "I can solder, I'll save some money!" No... they make no mention of the required tools, know how, and time. I live in an apartment so having anything more than a basic tool kit is far fetched.
Anyway, I just got done doing the 510 washer. It was so absurdly difficult I thought it was impossible.
I'm starting to feel like this is the worst part of putting it together. There's rarely not much space to get those battery contacts in.
I can see it being a little challenging for beginners but not impossible and so much more rewarding once you complete it. And you have us to help you get it built.
I've said it before, the 510 in the kit isn't that great. Hard to solder the wire onto.
There's a channel for the wire to sit in so it's not that bad. The battery contact clip protrudes just a bit too much to fit so flattening it helps a lot.
I finally got a "Check Battery" message. 32.7k joules. 3.27v on the left battery, 3.29v on the right battery. Not impressive from what I've been reading on the SX350j threads but it lasted 1.5 days for me so it's not bad for runtime.
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