IMO this sums up the whole thread perfectly in two sentences![]()
Ya know, there are rules regarding making things to simple.

IMO this sums up the whole thread perfectly in two sentences![]()
Ya know, there are rules regarding making things to simple.![]()
This may seem like a silly question to many of you, but I'm honestly wondering.
I'm pretty happy vaping 2ohms at 3.7v, and from what I've read, many people agree that's a pretty good combo. If I were to build my own coils, I'd probably want to build them around the same resistance, right? If I were to up the resistance, I'd probably want to up the vots... and then wouldn't I just end up at a similar vape as the 3.7/2.0?
I guess I'm not really understanding the point of VV/VW, or building at different ohms. I've been watching videos and reading this board for a couple months because when I get a new hobby, I like to learn everything I can about it. I'm sure it's just something very simple I'm missing here.
Also, regarding mech mods: Without getting into subohms and all that, the only two (very valid, imho) reasons for getting one is a) shiny new toys are awesome, and b) being able to replace the battery when the Vapocalypse hits and vaping specific power modules are banned. The housing may last forever, but the 14/18xxx's will have to be replaced just like any other rechargeable battery. I guess the whole more mah thing, but that's only if you don't mind the mod being giant.
I also don't understand the giant mods for longer battery life. If I'm out and about, I need something portable. If I'm home, I don't need a longer battery life because I'm near an outlet. If it's a power outage / zombie attack thing, why not just have a power bank?
Right now, I don't understand why I shouldn't just have an ego mini with a 15mm halfling tank in my pocket, a spare battery, wall adapter, and 5ml bottle of juice (in a pouch about the size of a deck of cards) in my bag as backup.
I also want all the toys, because shiny. Why should I / should I not get them? (edit: I'm open to the idea of having a going out and a bigger staying in setup, but only if the staying in setup is "better" for a good enough reason. Not looking to get a million different devices, but I'd pay a decent amount of money on 1 or two really good ones.)
Ok, thanks for the dismissive response, but I wouldn't have asked if I'd come across an answer before.
I understand that "good results" is very personal and subjective. We all like what we like, and will probably like one type more. So... once you decide which tank / atomizer / style you like, what's the purpose of having different types? I'm genuinely curious. I'm sure there's a reason, otherwise people wouldn't do it, even if that reason is just "shiny new toys".
The reason could be as simple as why I don't wear green shirts every day. Sure, green is my favorite color, and I like green better than blue, but sometimes I like to wear blue just because I like a bit of variety. And that's OK. I would just like to know if there's a reason beyond that.
My take on it is that really, when it comes down to it, a properly working coil and a properly wicking material should give a decent result no matter what the ohm or voltage combinations are.
However, there's two reasons why I think the VV setting is useful - even throughout the folks that claim tanks and replaceable heads work fine, most people still agree that all of the perform better at 3.3-3.7V's and sort of taste burnt no matter what, going above 4.1V's. When dealing with these device's, it's always best to be able to dial the device down to what's tolerable.
The second I guess is the possibility of dealing with very high ohm'd coils. For me, it just so happened, either because of build quality or the high ohm itself, that the Cisco 3.5ohm atomizer put out some amazing flavors, yet needed a good 4.1V's to perform right - it simply did little of anything at 3.3V's-3.9V's, and at 4.1V's, the flavor suddenly sparked to life and the vapor plumed out. Very useful in that situation.
However, with how folks are out building 0.63ohm coils in such, my opinion is that a well-wicking and well-working coil should taste fine regardless of virtually any settings. At most, I'd believe that the settings may give one the ability to allow the juice shine with lower notes or higher layers, or taste a little drier or wetter, but you'd probably have to be using a very high-ohm'd coil for the big difference to really show; I personally wouldn't think a sub-ohm coil would give much wiggle room in terms of power for the vapor to really differentiate from setting to setting.
The ohms and the voltage have everything to do (along with other factors) with how well a device performs.
But I sort of stand by my opinion that voltage is really just as needless as anything else. It can be a useful setting while testing, and for me it was a useful setting on a 3.5ohm coil, but other than that, on any coil with a lower ohm, I haven't seen much use or good out of it. Every other coil I've tried universally has been horrible. It wouldn't have mattered if that coil was set to 3.3V's or 4.5V's. It would have performed horribly. A good coil, like in the 1.8-2.5ohm range, should generally perform pretty outstandingly at the average 3.7V's that any old battery outputs. That's just how it works. A bad coil won't. If a coil can't handle 3.7V's or higher, something's horribly wrong with it.
P.S. How I proved voltage doesn't make squat of difference, is I was trying out the local shop's CE4's, which were coiled great and tasted great, and I was turning the voltage completely up and down on their battery, and the CE4's did great at 3.3V's, did great at 4.8Vs, believe it or not. When you first take a puff on a device, if the coil is wrapped well, it'll taste GOOD, with no wicky tastes, with no downtrodden tastes, at any voltage. If not, it's a sign that it's a bad coil, to a certain extent, or a bad juice. In my testing, I seem to prove that voltage rarely has much of a needed effect in either direction beyond 3.7V's.
doctadrea -
Honestly you didn't prove anything, your offering an opinion and that opinion goes against 99.9% of the rest of the vaping world.
I can tell a difference in .1 volt either way from the sweet spot on EVERY one of my atomizers. But I also know I'm changing the voltage because I have working devices not a "twist type" battery that has been proven to be defective (getting warm while vaping on clearo's means there's something wrong with the battery not the clearo unless the clearo is dead shorted which means you'd be vaping lithium/magnesium gas not vaporized Propylene Glycol and Vegetable Glycerin).
There are 174,xxx members on here of which 20,xxx are active and there's one spewing misinformation about how voltage has nothing to do with vaping.
The vast majority get into vaping to quit smoking even if the FDA and American Lung Association don't believe that. Some are happy with an Ego and Clearo while others take it on as a new found hobby and get into more advanced vaping. However the misinformation being spewed around by a very few can drive people away without ever giving them the chance to see what will work for them.
If you have all the scientific evidence to back up all these egregious claims then show it, post it, take pictures of it but don't ramble on for hours as though you are the only one who knows anything and the other 20,000+ active members are wrong.
Sorry, said I wouldn't do it again but..............
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60 seconds of dry burning will fix the cisco. but you know that right?
if voltage isnt important then how did provape become so popular.
someday you will figure out a broken little ego doesnt make you an expert. and just about any clearo taste great after soaking for 3 days.
60 seconds of dry burning will fix the cisco. but you know that right?
if voltage isnt important then how did provape become so popular.
someday you will figure out a broken little ego doesnt make you an expert. and just about any clearo taste great after soaking for 3 days.