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Thanks RjG, we have a computer fair this weekend and I'm going to look for parts and tools based on your work.
I'm also following another thread on the forum that is converting the battery to a USB connection (5v). Do you think your design will work using USB for power?
I'm also following another thread on the forum that is converting the battery to a USB connection (5v). Do you think your design will work using USB for power?
vince.cadc, I just got some from ebay. Just make sure in the notes to seller you specify:
"38ga bare Nichrome 60- 42.19 ohms per ft."
Fine Nichrome Wire **YOUR CHOICE 28 - 46ga** Lot / 30' - eBay (item 140315926767 end time Apr-28-09 13:06:03 PDT)
If this is the wrong one, someone please correct me.
"38ga bare Nichrome 60- 42.19 ohms per ft."
Fine Nichrome Wire **YOUR CHOICE 28 - 46ga** Lot / 30' - eBay (item 140315926767 end time Apr-28-09 13:06:03 PDT)
If this is the wrong one, someone please correct me.
Nichrome 80 is better (more heat from less power) but 60 works fine.
My roll is disappeared, I've been looking for it for a month, or I'd send you some.
Somebody probably grabbed it off my desk and hung pictures with it at work, lol
A 1/8lb roll of .004" with several thousand feet is only $30 here
McMaster-Carr
Damn McMaster won't ship to Canada anymore.... bah
My roll is disappeared, I've been looking for it for a month, or I'd send you some.
Somebody probably grabbed it off my desk and hung pictures with it at work, lol
A 1/8lb roll of .004" with several thousand feet is only $30 here
McMaster-Carr
Damn McMaster won't ship to Canada anymore.... bah
yes, there's a thread here too,
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tips-tricks/4321-08-cent-usb-mod.html
Have any of you rebuilt your cigar using RjG's method? I'm looking for more input on the process. RjG did an amazing job and I'm looking to see if others benefitted from his work.
The part that stops me from doing this is the connection of the nichrome wire. Regular solder will not work because the heat of the nichrome will melt the solder. A crimp fitting will develop corrosion at the contacts.
RjG used silver solder that requires a high temp to melt. Does a propane torch get hot enough to melt silver solder or does it require acetylene?
RjG used silver solder that requires a high temp to melt. Does a propane torch get hot enough to melt silver solder or does it require acetylene?
Very Nice Mod!
I have been alternating between several e cigs and a e cigar.
I get lots of vapor from the e cigar, but it is more flavor and vapor then throat hit. The ecig vary so much that I have one I use first thing in the morning. It has much more of air mix to vapor. After a bit I have to go to a less air more vapor e cig. The rest of the day I alternate between the e cigar and the e cigs with the best throat hit.
I really like the idea of a mod and all along when people were modifying e cigs I thought to myself why not get a cigar.
But this is fascinating.
Great Job.
I really hope you can come up with a plan for the chamber delivery system.
I think consistency is the biggest problem I am having with all the models I have tried.
I was a hard core smoker for 46 years. However, I am learning to appreciate flavor and smooth vapor rather then the throat hit.
I have been alternating between several e cigs and a e cigar.
I get lots of vapor from the e cigar, but it is more flavor and vapor then throat hit. The ecig vary so much that I have one I use first thing in the morning. It has much more of air mix to vapor. After a bit I have to go to a less air more vapor e cig. The rest of the day I alternate between the e cigar and the e cigs with the best throat hit.
I really like the idea of a mod and all along when people were modifying e cigs I thought to myself why not get a cigar.
But this is fascinating.
Great Job.
I really hope you can come up with a plan for the chamber delivery system.
I think consistency is the biggest problem I am having with all the models I have tried.
I was a hard core smoker for 46 years. However, I am learning to appreciate flavor and smooth vapor rather then the throat hit.
There's two kinds of silver solder - I used low temp soldering iron "lead free" silver solder. The stuff they use from the factory melts with a soldering iron, so I felt comfortable using that. Personally, I think there's not a lot of silver in it, but that's what the label says ;-)
I just didn't want to use lead based solder in there for obvious poisonous reasons.
The acid core solder I have, that I needed to use for TINNING the nichrome, IS lead based. I don't know if you can get lead-free acid core.
(Tinning - for those not so electronically inclined - is a very very thin coating, just enough to put a different color on it. It's not thick, just enough to have an oxide free compatible metal for your preferred solder to have something to bind to)
I do use silver solder braze (which is the other variety Kender is talking about) on other projects, for stainless steel, and fixing busted bandsaw blades. You really need a brazing torch to make that stuff melt. The flux is some white paste that needs extreme heat too. Dull red is the temp the flux melts and the silver starts flowing. .004 nichrome might survive... maybe.... the copper wire probably wouldn't though.
P.S. Even the acid core solder I used to TIN with will vaporize that .004 nichrome if you let the soldering iron sit on it for more than 1/10 second.
I just didn't want to use lead based solder in there for obvious poisonous reasons.
The acid core solder I have, that I needed to use for TINNING the nichrome, IS lead based. I don't know if you can get lead-free acid core.
(Tinning - for those not so electronically inclined - is a very very thin coating, just enough to put a different color on it. It's not thick, just enough to have an oxide free compatible metal for your preferred solder to have something to bind to)
I do use silver solder braze (which is the other variety Kender is talking about) on other projects, for stainless steel, and fixing busted bandsaw blades. You really need a brazing torch to make that stuff melt. The flux is some white paste that needs extreme heat too. Dull red is the temp the flux melts and the silver starts flowing. .004 nichrome might survive... maybe.... the copper wire probably wouldn't though.
P.S. Even the acid core solder I used to TIN with will vaporize that .004 nichrome if you let the soldering iron sit on it for more than 1/10 second.
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do you know about the temps the atomizer runs at. It must be pretty low. I normally set my soldering iron at 700 degrees so the atomizers must run lower than that. Guessing around 400? I have a small temp probe at work and I'll place it under the bridge by the coil and see how hot it gets while I vape.
On this mod I'm looking for some details on how to disassemble the inners of the cigar. RjG is extremely talented and creative on the tools to accomplish this project.
Unfortunately, I don't have the skills or equipment to do what RjG did. I'm looking to see if others have been able to do what RjG did with common tools: Take the screw ends out, extract the atomizer assembly out of the cigar tub and reinstall the atomizer assembly back into the cigar tube.
Once thats done I have some detail questions like the steel mesh and where to get it.
Any help or ideas would be appreciated.
Unfortunately, I don't have the skills or equipment to do what RjG did. I'm looking to see if others have been able to do what RjG did with common tools: Take the screw ends out, extract the atomizer assembly out of the cigar tub and reinstall the atomizer assembly back into the cigar tube.
Once thats done I have some detail questions like the steel mesh and where to get it.
Any help or ideas would be appreciated.
The only really hard part is getting the ends off . They are a tight fit, with a bit of glue or glaze too. You can probably rock them off with a mouthpiece if you're careful - it will screw in both ends with a bit of effort. The thread is the same, it's just a tiny bit smaller on the LED end.
I've done BLINGS, RN, and DSE cigars, the process is exactly the same. I haven't had to use it every time, but a heat gun on the tube helps a lot to loosen things up when they get stuck (metal expands a lot with a little bit of heat). You should be able to push the guts out with a screwdriver or something, rather than the tool I made. Once it breaks free, the insides slide out reasonable easy. You don't need really need any tools to put them back together, other than a screwdriver to push the insides back in.
I took lots of pictures of RN's and DSE cigars as well, disassembled. I should post them somewhere
I've done BLINGS, RN, and DSE cigars, the process is exactly the same. I haven't had to use it every time, but a heat gun on the tube helps a lot to loosen things up when they get stuck (metal expands a lot with a little bit of heat). You should be able to push the guts out with a screwdriver or something, rather than the tool I made. Once it breaks free, the insides slide out reasonable easy. You don't need really need any tools to put them back together, other than a screwdriver to push the insides back in.
I took lots of pictures of RN's and DSE cigars as well, disassembled. I should post them somewhere
Excellent work on those RjG!
I took the temps under the bridge in the atomizer with a janty dura manual battery and a joye510 atomizer.
205 degrees at the start then dropped and held steady at 175 degrees for the rest of the draw.
They run a lot cooler than I thought they would.
The atomizer was pretty dry so they might run even cooler when wet.
I took the temps under the bridge in the atomizer with a janty dura manual battery and a joye510 atomizer.
205 degrees at the start then dropped and held steady at 175 degrees for the rest of the draw.
They run a lot cooler than I thought they would.
The atomizer was pretty dry so they might run even cooler when wet.
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The only really hard part is getting the ends off . They are a tight fit, with a bit of glue or glaze too. You can probably rock them off with a mouthpiece if you're careful - it will screw in both ends with a bit of effort. The thread is the same, it's just a tiny bit smaller on the LED end.
I've done BLINGS, RN, and DSE cigars, the process is exactly the same. I haven't had to use it every time, but a heat gun on the tube helps a lot to loosen things up when they get stuck (metal expands a lot with a little bit of heat). You should be able to push the guts out with a screwdriver or something, rather than the tool I made. Once it breaks free, the insides slide out reasonable easy. You don't need really need any tools to put them back together, other than a screwdriver to push the insides back in.
I took lots of pictures of RN's and DSE cigars as well, disassembled. I should post them somewhere
When you get some time this would be a good place to post those pix
I wonder if it would be better to crimp join the nichrome coil to the feeder leads.
Some tests that Exogenesis did showed a surprising amount of tin in the deposit material that presumably had leeched from the solder under heat, electrical and juice-solvent action.
Btw: I vote to sticky this thread; perhaps in the Atomizer sub-forum.
Some tests that Exogenesis did showed a surprising amount of tin in the deposit material that presumably had leeched from the solder under heat, electrical and juice-solvent action.
Btw: I vote to sticky this thread; perhaps in the Atomizer sub-forum.
That's interesting Kender, but was this coil temperature or the temp of the air near to it?
Hi, does anyone have a link ware to get the "fire wick"
as you can see im a n00b at this, I just dont want to use anything toxic.
Thanks
as you can see im a n00b at this, I just dont want to use anything toxic.
Thanks
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