"clearomizer" round up for 808s...

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Cyrus Vap

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if it doesn't say so, then no. but some medical products are sterilized with ethylene glycol, which I imagine is a no no.

All i know is, I've been placing this gauze (100% cotton and sterile) INSIDE patients for about a year, so if anything might be lung safe, its this lol

I don't like how its wicking, it needs to be braided for more surface area
 
I decided on a new PV, I figure if the vape is better without any polyfill material, maybe it would be nice without wicks also.
Since I mainly use variable voltage to dial in the sweet spot of my juices and seeing the new VV ego, I'm gonna purchase the new VV Ego-C when they come out.
Nothing ventured, nothing gained....
 

Voltron

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I have a few noob questions about clearos that I'm pretty sure you gritty veterans will be able to answer. :D

If I'm vaping exclusively one juice on a particular clearo, will cleaning or soaking it in vodka periodically help extend the life of the wicking material? Or should I just keep refilling with no cleaning whatsoever?

I'm concerned about gunk buildup and was thinking cleaning might help. Can someone please enlighten me on this?
 

Cyrus Vap

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Voltron buddy, this is my approach to these things with fluxos.

Flavors only *kind of* of stick to the plastic, so if you're using something strong (menthol, etc) that you don't want to taste, then you can

1) flush with scalding hot water
2) gently wiggle the outer plastic off (this is optional, what it really does is speed up drying)
3) drop it in PGA (vinegar works as well, but not on powerhouse flavors like menthol)
4) flush with hot water again, and set the parts on a paper towel with the wicks touching the paper towel. it will be dry in about an hour

Now what flavor really does cling to, and what shortens the lifespan of these things, is the coils. Do you own a manual? If you do, dry burning can restore the coils to pretty much brand newness. (So as you can infer, if its not a super strong flavor, you can skip the PGA soak entirely, and just rely on the following steps to get rid of the taste. At most you'll taste the old flavor for a few hits, eventually it'll get pushed out)

1) attach the guts (no shell) to your manual (make sure your guts are DRY, it will make this much faster)
2) open a window or do this somewhere ventilated so you're not inhaling toxins
3) hold the button for three seconds, then stop and blow quickly on the coil. repeat. repeat. repeat. It will be hissing like mad as the water is being evaporated.
4) now the wick will start to look like crap as the gunk starts to move off the coils and into the wick, worry not, keep going
5) now the hissing starts to go away, and the coils start to glow by the 3rd second of each pulse.
6) hissing is gone, and each time you press the button the coils are bright red and the surrounding wick is more or less pristine, except for a few light brown spots at most

***When I dry burn, I am more reckless because I've done it so much, meaning I will pulse for 5 seconds with no blow out. But I don't recommend you do this until you get a feel for it, as you can pop the coil. ***

**** you may notice a pile of ash on your coils after you're done dry burning. most advocate flushing again with water to get rid of it. I'm a ..... and often just fill and vape, and don't inhale the first few hits. the ash taste goes away immediately. that doesn't mean bad things don't entire your lungs, I don't know. probably not because with juice in there the coils can only get so hot.****

you can take this a step further if you own a torch and just take the torch to the wicks. they will NOT burn, and will become shock white. Keep in mind your silicone cup has heat shrink on it, as do your wires, so if you're not careful you'll roast them.

The wick doesn't really become a limiting issue in so far as a spot here and there, so you can just ignore it. the coils are everything.

And be gentle with the wick, because everytime you touch it, handle it, you run the risk of progressively shearing off more and more of it. not a deal breaker, because you can use these things with about half the wick they come with, or even better, snip the wicks down to just the area of the coil (a tad more) and use Pyramid Tea Bags as substitutes; they actually work best this way.

If you want to be super careful with the wicks, don't bother ever wiggling off the plastic tube. It just means you do the same steps above but have to wait longer for the wicks to dry and get to the dry burn step



NEVER throw anything out. We can show you how to recycle/rebuild these things ad infinitum. Keep a fluxo graveyard bag and just throw anything that bites it right in there.
 
Well I just fried my first CE3 tonight. It has been in my rotation since I got these and I used it exclusively for the last week.
It was dry burned at least once a day and some days it received two burns for the last 5 days.
That's a good bit of use/abuse, but my motto..."If it can't take it, it can't stay" :)
I'm also planning on getting a ultrasonic jewelry cleaner to help me with the cleaning process, but I will use hot water and/or moonshine.

I was using it to compare to the CE2/atomizer taste test. It was on it's 3rd fill up with Highbrows-tabac de Perique when it went.
I will get another ready to be sure the results were the same, but for now...
The CE3 gave me a better flavor over the CE2, but the atomizer really brought out the tobacco tones the best.
I think it's just the bottom coil/wick that lets the 'heavier' parts of the juice wick easier. Just my opinion though.

I also found the best way to get the old coil out. Open flame, over the stove. Whatever they use to adhere the wires in the ceramic cup put up a good fight, but once the cup got hot, the wires fell out. Since I have a hard time disassembling the CE4+'s; this would be a lot easier to rebuild as the dis-assembly is a breeze imho.
 
Charlz, you are spot on, the ceramic cup was junked up pretty good, especially for only going through 2 fill ups and it was pretty clean when I started.
Before it went, it wouldn't fire on any of my batts., but it ohmed good.
I drained it with a syringe, filled it with a Carolina Cured and it started working again. So I drained it again w/ another syringe and put the other juice back in. It worked for about 10-15 min. and it started acting up again. I disassembled down to the coil and cleaned/dried again. Filled again with that juice; it lasted about another 15 min. and started all over again.
This time it ohmed bad and sure enough, the wire was broken.


That perique will kill just about anything. The bottom coil may give better flavor as you say but that juice is also full of particulates that settle down and may have lead to it's demise. Tear it apart! Lets find out.
 
Ok, now I was curious so I decided to dismantle another CE3.
Even though it was working great, it had a large ball of junk on the coil.
It was in use approx. 3 weeks and it was never taken apart, just dry burned.

I dismantled all the way, when the cup/coil was out, I held it over a open flame on the stove.
I kept the bottom half of the ceramic cup out of the flame. The junk on the coil turned to ash and the wicks cleaned up nice and fluffy.
I removed from the flame and gently pulled the coil/wick out of the cup. I notice what looked like 2 solder spots on the coil wire.

I thought of you guys and decided to stick the coil/wick back into the flame until something broke and it did.
(So Charlz & Cyrus, 'yous' need to pitch in and get me a new CE3 :laugh: )

If you look at the pick, you will see the 2 solder spots. The 2 short legs past the spots turned bright red fast and one bent at the spot. When I tried to straighten it, it broke off.
The wires past the solder spots are not the same type of wire that the coil is made of.
I could tell as they turned red fast and the coil section was still cool looking.

The coil section mics .005/.006 & the 'leg' wires beyond the spots mic'd .009/.010 thousandths.
The coil section ohmed 2.7 and is approx. 1-3/4" long & the legs ohmed ".000" and are .400" thousandths long.
This CE3 ohmed 2.8

Sorry for the bad phone pic....

244pjza.jpg
 
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The CE2 supreme's arrived today and here is a few of my observations so far.

The center post is longer to take up some of the voided space that was in the Deluxe Flux's.
Old post length: 1.800" ; new post length: 1.960"

The wicks appear the same, but I'm unsure if there is a material difference. They are wicking fine, but it still needs to be broken in yet as it has no taste/flavor at the moment, so time will tell.

The top seal seems to fit good and appears to be well made. I don't see it restricting the wicks like the older ones.
I'm not sold on the easy fill just yet. It took a bit longer for the juice to flow down the skinny slots, but then again I like filling with a syringe, so it could just be a small learning curve for me.

One thing I did figure out...I pulled the top seal out and was fighting it to get back on and line the notches up with the wicks.
It's easier if you remove and lubricate the tube with juice; put the top seal on the cup lining up the notches, then push it through the tube without turning or stopping. The seal seems well made and doesn't restrict the wicks.

Gotta run and vape a few fill ups and see if the flavor will come through.
 
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Charlz

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My experience with the one I opened as the same as yours Skelley. The first few hits were NASTY LOL. VG primer or whatever. Yuck.

I really like the higher cup, HOT vape!

Ordered these friday and so far, all that's shown up every day since then is the shipping notification. This is giving an unfair advantage to the mailman.
 

CloveHunter

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OK, who am I to blame on getting this fluxo? Cyrus! I like it! (well, I'm easily amuse but still…)
Now I know what you guys are raving about :p

I didn't experience that burnt taste, I read somewhere in the fluxo thread to wet the coil with 1-2 drips and I think that help. So yeah, so far so good, I'm happy with it.

Notes, I'm an aesthetically nerd - is the tube supposed to be not straight? Mine is a little bent... Maybe I pushed the drip tip too far?
 
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