"clearomizer" round up for 808s...

[Barry Badrinath]

OK, I won't throw them out then.

The 3rd one I'm using has been decent.

Again, flavor is just awesome, vapor production and throat hit are solid.

I've refilled this one 3 or 4 times and not any major leakage, but still just like the first one, there is some very small leakage sporadically.

The 2nd one that started leaking immediately, I left it sitting vertically on a couple paper towels. When I came back to it the next day it spilled out from completely full to about a third full, but then just stopped leaking on it's own. But if you dab the bottom with a paper towel there is always liquid on the paper towel.

I still want to love these things but they just don't seem real world usable and for the price it's almost offensive that they're offered for sale at all with the quality control on them and how fine china delicate they are.

Hell, just in between fills when the 1st one did work before leaking profusely on fill, just leaving it horizontal on it's side when it was about 3 quarters full over night it drained out through I presume the air tube, which is what SSV2 said he believed as well.

Update on the battery as well... I wound up at a buddies house who happens to vape as well but only uses mods. He was out of carts and so we were using my one battery and vaping steady, almost chain vaping and it lasted 7 and a half hours and that actually included a 3rd person who smokes cigarettes getting on it because they were curious to try it. Quite impressive for a small unit.

 

[Charlz]

Nhaler has igo visions. They are turbo tanks for ego threaded 808s like the iGo, Riva 901 and 808 ego.

Cyrus did some homework or us and found that these don't have the cone skirt as I thought. I was fooled by the picture. Hopefully they change it. These igo visions have a flat base.

 

[CloveHunter]

Cyrus did some homework or us and found that these don't have the cone skirt as I thought. I was fooled by the picture. Hopefully they change it. These igo visions have a flat base.

I took a risk and order it; it has 'steel cone skirt' with notch on the center post - I'll put a picture if needed - and it works with the VaporSmith 'vGO' battery the one I posted on another thread.

So far, so good. I'll update later after enjoying the juice pureness heaven

 

[Charlz]

I took a risk and order it; it has 'steel cone skirt' with notch on the center post - I'll put a picture if needed - and it works with the VaporSmith 'vGO' battery the one I posted on another thread.

So far, so good. I'll update later after enjoying the juice pureness heaven

Seems I've got to work on my cognitive reading skills. I just reread Cyrus' post in the echo thread and they do have a skirt. Thank's for clearing that up. Nhaler's response stated that they do leave a gap on the Riva 901. So know we now that the Riva's cone threads are not the same as the Vgo's cone thread. Sounds like the Riva has a higher post, maybe.

I don't know if Cyrus ordered one. We'll have to wait to find out if the gap is obnoxious or not.

 

[skelley]

So what's the new mod?

 

[Cyrus Vap]

I didn't order one

as quoted above, he said they don't 'work?!" on the echos, so that was a a deal breaker for me

My current Riva 901s leave a large gap with the iturbo due to the cone threads. But this is fixable, a great man at cropduster is making me a modded cone just for this

from Nhaler

Hi,
The Ohms are 2.6 to 2.8...They will not screw on our Echos (which are Auto batteries) and they have a different thread, but some companies call the Igo the Echo...They do leave a small gap on the Riva 901 ( about a 16th of an inch) as they dont screw completely on.

 

[Charlz]

so to sum up the visions. the iturbo is flat at the base for the echo. Can also fit standard kr8 batteries but are much wider than the battery. They can fit the igo and riva 901 but leave the cone threads naked and just look weird. If you don't mind, that's ok. They can be a bit airy though if they aren't flush with the base of a battery.

The eTurbo is for 510, has a skirt for ego threads and is also called the stardust.

The igo crystal vision is made for 808s but has a skirt for the igo and vgo batteries. Will fit the riva 901 but leave a tiny gap. 1/16th of an inch. (Unkown at this time but Smokeless Images fat bat has cone threads, so someone will have to ask.)

They are all the exact same thing. Just built for different batteries. Standard resistance on these are 2.5-2.8 ohms. Lr is 2.0-2.5. I haven't found any lr808 versions yet. Something to note is any one that makes room for cone threads by having a skirt, holds less juice. Chose based on the battery you have.

 

[CloveHunter]

Good summary, Charlz!

Something to note is any one that makes room for cone threads by having a skirt, holds less juice. Chose based on the battery you have.

The weird thing about iGo Crystal Vision is the measurement scale (not that I care about it, but it's nice to have) actually starts at 0.2ml because between 0ml - 0.2ml is the bottom seal/coil/whateverthatsteelthingyis...

So, if the measurement scale is right, you could only hold around 1.4ml of juice, make it 1.2 since you don't really want to fill it until the last scale to avoid leaking.

Other than that... it works great - and as Charlz said, I felt a bit of weird taste on the tip, not so much but it's there.

 

[Charlz]

it does go away. One really hung in there. I soak all my turbos in high proof alcohol now before use. Could be manufacturing oils left on anything we use.



editing my above post to include the vGo

 

[Cyrus Vap]

Great summary charlz

So far my fluxos are my fav. I have lower resistance ones coming in the mail

Also have an IKvision 2.0 ohm 510 coming

And two IKV horizontal 2.0 ohm 808s

Will report

 

[skelley]

pbusardo just did a review of the IKV 801. Same ohms & construction as the Boge 510 basically.
(edit-oops, that was a standard carto review)

I see the new 'stardust' have a "pip" instead of the 'top hat' under the silicone cap...anyone know what the 'pip' does?
Any of the 801 styles have this pip also?

Great summary charlz

So far my fluxos are my fav. I have lower resistance ones coming in the mail

Also have an IKvision 2.0 ohm 510 coming

And two IKV horizontal 2.0 ohm 808s

Will report

 

[Charlz]

I see the new 'stardust' have a "pip" instead of the 'top hat' under the silicone cap...anyone know what the 'pip' does?

Tries to force a lot of vapor through a tiny hole and causes gurgley condensation problems. I switched mine for the old "top hat" style and the draw is better. I think what they were going for was to create a bigger lip for the tip to sit on and make sure no juice gets up there.

 

[CloveHunter]

Great. So far I managed to kill a Turbo/Vision after 2 times refilling. The coil just isn't burning, still could turn on the auto battery except nothing happened, no crackling sound, no vapor, nothing.

Suggestion? Disassemble it? Clean/drown it with alcohol? Anything? Thanks!

 

[Sylvestre]

it does go away. One really hung in there. I soak all my turbos in high proof alcohol now before use. Could be manufacturing oils left on anything we use.



editing my above post to include the vGo

OK please let me know why you soak, how long you soak, and how you dry them. I had something go weird with a customer, her battery and atomizer stuff seemed all full of condensation- could that be what you speak of, something they use to prime the atty?

 

[skelley]

RockingRobbieSF on ECF did a few vids on youtube of the 'stardust'.
Here is one of them, check out his others as they show rewicking also.




I just received another 5 stardust for the wife & boy. They are the older 'tophat' style.
I'm saving all the older ones for rebuilds later. All cracked at the base & leaking.

I noticed a few that were leaking due to over tightening the drip tip. It caused the top metal band to pop up and the tip didn't seal to the silicone cap. I had juice everywhere, mouth; battery; etc.
Now, I tap on the metal band and pull the silicone cap up a little before filling and seating the tip.
I have several that still leak and I have everything installed correctly. They are several weeks old and I can not find where the juice is coming from.

I had vape mail today and received a pack of CE2 Ultimate Clearomizers. They are identical to the gotvapes deluxe flux's with the only exception being the inner raised ring on the doughnut seal. It's raised, but barely.
I install this seal first and I trim the inner ring as I had a few deluxe flux's that the coil wasn't centered and heated the ring, giving a burnt rubber taste.

I also received a Vision Stone V3 tank to try, but I am waiting on new juices to arrive before testing.
Anyone know of any mods needed for the V3?

 

[Cyrus Vap]

what are these different versions, e.g. top hat and pip? lol

my i turbos have a pointy little guy that slides through a washer...

 

[skelley]

That's the 'pip'.
The 'tophat' looks like a upside down tophat.....that's what I call them anyways....lol.

 

[Charlz]

OK please let me know why you soak, how long you soak, and how you dry them. I had something go weird with a customer, her battery and atomizer stuff seemed all full of condensation- could that be what you speak of, something they use to prime the atty?

I pull everything apart rinse and soak in high proof alcohol. I dry burn the wick and coil while it's still moist from the alcohol. The tips on the turbos are hit or miss with the nasty taste. Eventually it will go away.

In atty's, I just blow out excess primer fluid as much as possible and prime with a couple drops of juice and not inhale the vapor until the taste goes away. 15-20 puffs. Some people soak their attys too.

Any time there is an open space between the coil and tip, ie a gap in the filler and mouthpiece, condensation is there. The wider the hole in the moutpiece the less it traps it. That condensation will mostly reabsorb in filler cartos and leaving it to dry will solve the problem. Sometimes what people think is a clogged carto, is just a soggy one and is why leaving it alone for a while and using it in a day or so seems to help. In happens quicker in low resistance and cartos that pump out more vapor. In fillerless hardware that condensation just stays put and eventually will find it's way down center tubes.
With manual batteries, it's good to get in the habit of drawing for a second or two after releasing the button so you suck out the condensation.
In auto batteries, you can't do this unless you purposely activate the cutoff so you need to pop off the mouthpiece and blow it out every now and then.

Does that help any? Tried to cover all the bases as the problem is a little vague. Could be anything. And it usually is.

 

[Charlz]

That's the 'pip'.
The 'tophat' looks like a upside down tophat.....that's what I call them anyways....lol.

The pip makes it harder to pull up on the silicon sleeve too. Sometimes I can't pry it up by the sides and going in through the wider top hat was easy. I have been calling this new thing a nipple. And the silicon sleeve a condom -just in case folks were confused by my earlier posts. It's really not a condom though. Sleeve is a better term. And i kind of like calling the pip a nipple.

 

[Sylvestre]

Thank you very much, that helped a bunch. You know, I started doing that little trick with the manual batts when one time i noticed the vapor still flowing slightly out after i pulled it away. Then i popped off the drip tip and lo and behold there was tons of condensation in there! It was a learning experience. But I appreciate knowing all that stuff now. Think i may print that up for my vape book. just kidding i don't really have a vape book, but i should at the very least start keeping a binder. Oh well just having the customer send stuff back and replacing it with hopefully a less moisture ridden appliance.