Someone else sagged a spring on here recently running sub ohm. I can't remember who at this time.
Convince me Reoville is the place I should call home.
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Ok so the spring was definitely something while messing around with the multimeter. It was a very small short, given the spring was not completely collapsed, and was not burning hot or smelled burnt. It also didn't look discolored nor did it drop enough to stop the battery from making contact with the firing pin. And most importantly, I've not changed anything to the coils, and they have been firing perfectly, so that's a no-no to a short in the coils.
The sparks, with the help of our wonderful magician Rob and pdib, I was able to get them to cease. So that's something out of the way
The sparks, with the help of our wonderful magician Rob and pdib, I was able to get them to cease. So that's something out of the way
YAY i know the name of my next REO Grand thanks to you jcalis1394
Maybe i'm crazy but i need to know a name before I can buy a REO. The Metallic RED Grand looks so awesome and now i know its name is Sparky. Is that a perfect name or what?
Have to wait until Monday to get one so I will keep my fingers crossed.
Maybe i'm crazy but i need to know a name before I can buy a REO. The Metallic RED Grand looks so awesome and now i know its name is Sparky. Is that a perfect name or what?
Have to wait until Monday to get one so I will keep my fingers crossed.
Love all those edits, Jcalis - the whole story in one place - PLUS the answer seems to me!!!
Haha, Sparky! Perfect name
Well, the sparks are not totally gone, basically when switching batteries sparks happen sometimes. Adding just a tiny amount of noalox accross the surface of the battery gets rid of this problem. I already cleaned both the batteries and the firing pin thoroughly. Also ordered a bottle of noalox. As long as the battery tops have some, problem is gone.
By the way sparks are only occurring in sub ohm coils. With my previous 1-1.2 ohm micro coils it didn't happen, nor with any carto/attys. Maybe because the current being drawn from the battery is so much higher, you need to keep the batteries and firing pin in check.
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My understanding (and I could easily be wrong), is that basically lower ohms=higher current through the system. It may be that at .6, you're pushing enough current (amps) to heat the spring slightly, thus causing a "slow collapse". Not a short, just too much current.
As for the sparks, it may be on the low ohm RM2, more current=visible sparks. You mentioned the atty/cartos don't exhibit this behavior, what's the resistance of the ones you tried?
As for the sparks, it may be on the low ohm RM2, more current=visible sparks. You mentioned the atty/cartos don't exhibit this behavior, what's the resistance of the ones you tried?
Thanks for that info. Very interesting.
That spring collapsing, I'm sure it was while messing with the multimeter, given that using the very same coils I was running, it hasn't happened again. The spring always heats up, but never collapses on neither of my REOs. Somehow while using the multimeter I caused a very small short. That's all the explanation I can give given that I've been using the very same coils I was using when the spring semi-collapsed on both the REOs and up until now everything is running perfectly. Also, I've done a .4 ohm build (that I ditched because micro coils give a lot more flavor and I don't have the kanthal to make a .4 micro coil) so I was pushing a lot more current with that one, and it never collapsed. So a small short for sure.
The sparks did not happen on either carto/attys or my previous coil builds. The carto and attys I was using were 1.5 ohms, the coil setup I was running was 1 ohm.What you said makes sense, sub ohm does make that issue a lot more obvious. Until now, adding a very small amount of noalox across the surface of the battery top fixes it completely to the point I rarely see any sparks at all. Basically I think I saw maybe one spark every 20 times I fired it. No misfires, weak vapor, or any other issue.
Hm, well, I managed to semi collapse another spring. It isn't a short, because it only happens if I fire it for 5 seconds or longer. Mind you, it's .4 ohms. Battery is cool, even if I pull the spring back up (Cautions taken, using AW IMR, for science! ) it would semi collapse again. So as to say, the spring remained functional. So um, this is really, really puzzling. Any ideas?
) it would semi collapse again. So as to say, the spring remained functional. So um, this is really, really puzzling. Any ideas?
I've sagged one at .3ohms w/ a 30a sony
I daily vape at 26g .5ohms anyways. .3 is crisp but at the loss of other flavors.
If it ever became important enough I'd just bypass the spring w/a simple mod which would be pretty easy to do and even allow for a kick or 2cent fuse if I wanted. I havent felt the need yet.
I daily vape at 26g .5ohms anyways. .3 is crisp but at the loss of other flavors.
If it ever became important enough I'd just bypass the spring w/a simple mod which would be pretty easy to do and even allow for a kick or 2cent fuse if I wanted. I havent felt the need yet.
I was worried because I thought I was causing a short somehow, but it just didn't make any sense. It would only happen after firing it for about 5 seconds, I can pull the spring back up, and it will collapse again, so as opposed to how a spring collapses on a hard short, where even if you pull it back up, it simply won't work again, this time it does work again. (Using AW IMR, so I feel safer than I would with another batteries) The batteries NEVER get warm, always cool.
In this field I'm new, so I wouldn't even know how to setup a fuse. I want the safety of a spring, or at least, akin to the safety that a spring offers. If you or anyone else can guide me as to how to do that, I'd be really thankful. (I like the idea of using a fuse)
Edit: Reading and watching videos on the 2cent fuse. Interesting indeed.
Edit2: Eh, now I feel a bit stupid. Using a 2cent fuse is painfully easy. I was thinking about another fuses I saw on another thread regarding improving connectivity. lol
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A lot of stores are out of stock. I found this one. I think I'm gonna get a couple.
2 Cents for Safety Mod Fuse
2 Cents for Safety Mod Fuse
I just noticed (having only hopped aboard) that you said you pulled your spring back up and it collapsed again. Once a spring collapses, it's shot. The fact it collapsed again is irrelevant, as I understand it. Also, bear in mind, that it is useless, now, for predictable safety. ONE spring gets to have ONE sag.
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That's what I thought too. I ordered a couple of extra springs already, but these springs are collapsing after I pull them back up and fire it for a long time. If I don't fire it for a long time, and just do short drags, they don't. It was my understanding that a collapsed spring is done for, and wouldn't collapse again at all. That's why it kind of caught my attention.
Regarding the vapesafe2 resettable fuse: It's trip current is 6 amps. If I remember my math/physics, a 4.1 volt battery @.6 ohms is roughly 7 amps.
Apparently, the manufacturers consider 6 amps to be the maximum safe current draw. I use a similar device (shortstop, which is rated to trip at 5 amps), but I never go below 1.6 ohms.
Apparently, the manufacturers consider 6 amps to be the maximum safe current draw. I use a similar device (shortstop, which is rated to trip at 5 amps), but I never go below 1.6 ohms.
Well this problem is very particular, since I'd guess very few people go below .5 ohms, or at least, Reonauts. And it makes sense, because a micro coil at 1 ohm already gives a perfect vape, so there's no need to go sub ohm. But everybody has their own preferences right? I want to have the whole range available, and then again I'm fairly new into SLR. I can go to .5 ohms perfectly, so that's good.
Any ideas on getting a spring of a different material? A brass spring perhaps?
I want to have the whole range available, and then again I'm fairly new into SLR. I can go to .5 ohms perfectly, so that's good. Any ideas on getting a spring of a different material? A brass spring perhaps?
You're into an area in which I have no expertise. But I would think that you're making a trade off between lower resistance, and speed of collapse of the spring, if you go with a different material. From what I see, manufacturers consider the acceptable "range" to be around 5 or 6 amps, max.
I'm not sure how low a resistance you want to be able to vape. [kidding]Theoretically, you could set it up with zero resistance. You'd get a hell of a vape, but battery life would really suck![/kidding]
I'm not sure how low a resistance you want to be able to vape. [kidding]Theoretically, you could set it up with zero resistance. You'd get a hell of a vape, but battery life would really suck!
[/kidding]Hehe, 0.0 ohm coil. I say let's do it! Just get a fire extinguisher by your side at all timesYou're into an area in which I have no expertise. But I would think that you're making a trade off between lower resistance, and speed of collapse of the spring, if you go with a different material. From what I see, manufacturers consider the acceptable "range" to be around 5 or 6 amps, max.
I'm not sure how low a resistance you want to be able to vape. [kidding]Theoretically, you could set it up with zero resistance. You'd get a hell of a vape, but battery life would really suck!
Well, the owner of the B&M I go to got his new shiny REO with RM2. I built him a .6 ohm micro coil. I saw casual sparks, so it wasn't something defective on my side. The spring did not collapse, it does get hot but that's normal, then again I didn't go below .5 ohms. I have 5 springs on their way, 2 of which are from another vendor, I'll test them and see what happens. Currently I'm vaping both REOs with collapsed springs, so safety measures at all times. No biggie, since I remade my coils at .6-.7 ohms so the springs don't collapse/burn. If it's just too much current for the springs, the brass shim mod of pdib will solve it and add a very sweet improvement to voltage drop. Again, I don't really mind , since I'm fairly new into super low sub ohm coils and with a REO, you really don't need it. I can roll on a 1.0 ohm micro coil all day blowing dense clouds and getting out of this world flavor. The REO has that magic in it that science can't explain
Also, it's so easy to mod, it's just the best device I've ever used.(Some people have sagged their springs at .3-.4 ohms while some haven't. Maybe a different batch of springs that can't tolerate that much?)
I also got the chance to see the new RM2 with the longer post and tiny hole. It was actually rather easy to fit a 26g kanthal wire. When I brought him his REO back all setup with his e-juice ready, love at first sight. I must say it's quite a sexy REO. Here, as the norm for drooling purposes!
At the office, it doesn't get any better than this
I kind of fell in love with that copper grand of his. Had a hard time letting it go . I was browsing all of the color combinations, and damn there's too much to choose from. But this copper grand is gorgeous.
Well, just finished switching out flavors on the REOs. Cherry lemonade 0 nic and "Malibu" which I don't even know what it has, tastes like peach with orange and a hint of melon, with 6 mg. Loaded and ready to work for tomorrow.
. I was browsing all of the color combinations, and damn there's too much to choose from. But this copper grand is gorgeous. Well, just finished switching out flavors on the REOs. Cherry lemonade 0 nic and "Malibu" which I don't even know what it has, tastes like peach with orange and a hint of melon, with 6 mg. Loaded and ready to work for tomorrow
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