Cthulhu RTA V2 (similar posts to the velocity rda)
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Saying that, most of the time I just have whatever mod I'm using in full power and use temp to control the vape. Less faffing about!
Explain Please Yorky
Re coiled and re wicked mine today. Switched from 28AWG to 26AWG and halved the resistance to 0.5 ohms on the dual post deck. I fitted the wick holding ring before I wicked it this time and after trimming the wicks down I poked some of it in the wick in to the juice channels. Left the ends a bit shorter this time which has cured the occasional dry hit I was getting when chain vaping.
That looks nice!!! Hopefully it's as simple and effective as it looks to be.
Basically, when using TC, once the coil has reached the temperature you set, it maintains it by the mod adjusting the power. If you vape looking in a mirror, you can see the volts going up and down slightly very quickly. Sometimes you get a rattlesnake sound as the coil is heating/cooling incredibly fast to maintain temperature. Some people don't like this so lower the power to just enough to eliminate it. If it's a good TC chip, you don't tend to get the rattlesnake effect.Explain Please Yorky
Setting the watts/joules (depending on model) to maximum, simply makes the coil reach temperature as fast as possible. There is of course a certain point where it's not worth increasing the power any more that necessary, say if you have a 200W device, depending on your build, you'd probably not ever need to go above 70W as the resistance of nickel/titanium is so small, it doesn't actually take a lot of power to get as hot as it needs. Any mod above 100W IMO is for people like build very low ohms with kanthal.
Some mods, like the Aspire Pegasus and I think one by Eleaf don't even give you the option to set the power in TC mode, they simply set themselves to the maximum and all you can adjust is the temperature.
At the end of the day, if you're in temp mode, all you should be doing is adjusting the temperature and not worrying about the power. Dial it up, let the mod do the thinking! lol
got my shipping notice yesterday but today still says preshipment sent to usps
I don't agree with that. It's really mod specific though. That probably works fine on some, but others not so much. I know my SXMM if you set it at 50J and don't have an adequate coil/airflow for it, you'll be in for an unpleasant vape.
Well then the TC is just not working properly or it functions differently to how TC commonly functions Yorkyboy is right on this one. Although i person find setting the W/J to full eats a bit at my battery life so i don't ever set it to full i just find the w/j required to power the temp setting but each to there own in theory doubt it makes much difference.
I can agree with this, I mostly use GG Atomizers and when you try to build a killer nickel build and crank up the watts to where they should be.........watch out, you end up burning your mouth it's so hot.
I am running an SX Mini M at 50j, 450f. It backs off when my dripper is getting dry. Maybe your temp is too high? If you're getting burnt hits, it sounds like it may be?
Theoretically, because the mod controls the power to the coil, this shouldn't affect battery life regardless of what you have the watts/joules set to, but this could differ I guess dependant on chip and how efficient/method it controls it. I'm no electrician so can't give a good answer, though I can now rewire a plug a lot better than I used to since I started building coils!
We'll just have to agree to disagree.
Try 50J at 400F on some 28g ni200 in a kayfun, and let me know how pleasant the vape is.I am running an SX Mini M at 50j, 450f. It backs off when my dripper is getting dry. Maybe your temp is too high? If you're getting burnt hits, it sounds like it may be?
Theoretically, because the mod controls the power to the coil, this shouldn't affect battery life regardless of what you have the watts/joules set to, but this could differ I guess dependant on chip and how efficient/method it controls it. I'm no electrician so can't give a good answer, though I can now rewire a plug a lot better than I used to since I started building coils!
The wattage/joules you throw at a coil directly impacts the vapor produced and the heat of the vapor, regardless of temp setting, in my experience at least. What I mean is same build/atty at 25w/j and 450F produces less vapor and is much cooler than 50w/j and 450F.
This is all incredibly off topic though. How are those Cthulhu v2s??
I suppose the one thing we haven't mentioned is the resistance! 50j at 450f is fine for a 0.07 ohm build, but I wouldn't chuck 50j at a 0.3 ohm one!We'll just have to agree to disagree.
Try 50J at 400F on some 28g ni200 in a kayfun, and let me know how pleasant the vape is.
The wattage/joules you throw at a coil directly impacts the vapor produced and the heat of the vapor, regardless of temp setting, in my experience at least. What I mean is same build/atty at 25w/j and 450F produces less vapor and is much cooler than 50w/j and 450F.
This is all incredibly off topic though. How are those Cthulhu v2s??
Anyhoo, yes, you're right, back OT.....
I'm still messing with different builds on it, but at the moment I'm still using my Goliath V2 as my daily. For me it's really the build quality that's bugging. It's not a bad atty at all, just not great. UD aren't a premier brand by any means, same price range and the quality is a lot better - again not Squape/Kayfun level, but better.
Can someone please explain how this juice control is meant to work please. Every time I top fill it the thing leaks like crazy. I have turned the juice ring left but after a certain point it begins to unscrew the base, the juice control ring is janky as all get out.
Turn the ring clockwise (with the tank installed and upright) to close the juice control and allow top filling without flooding or leakage. Turn Anti clockwise to reopen it. The internal threaded ring inside the juice control ring raises and lowers to prevent/block off/control the juice access to the wicks.
And your right when you try to close the juice control you can unscrew the tank at the same time which is a PIA. I try not to open it up fully when I'm done filling incase it gets stuck. It's not the best design and despite the machined finish it's still hard to grab on its own without undoing the parts next to it. A little ejuice to lube it up helps.
You shouldn't need to remove it once it's been installed.
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Does anyone happen to know if the allen screws on the v2 are the same as the v1? I just now lost my allen key, don't know whether to order a new one or wait until the v2 gets here. thanks.
I finally got mine......I gotta be honest I am not impressed with this thing at all.. My airflow control ring is loose as all heck, the juice control is an absolute pain in the ...., and the flavor is no where close to the Aromamizer. I think ill be shelving this and chalking up a $40 loss. Just my 
Sorry to cause any cornfusion Yorky
, It was me not grasping that you were talking about Temp control since I'm not into that yet (and your first sentence went right by me without sinking in ), still Kanthal Only for me. I hear all about the smooth vape from Temp Control and the lack of Dry Hits, I like my vape to have a bit more Coarseness than Smoothness, and I haven't had any Dry Hit in over a year (and then it was on my starter setup, an EVOD2, and that was just once 
), and I didn't mean to pull you into a debate. Sorry about that Partner.
I've never had this much trouble setting up a piece of vape equipment. It's really difficult to get the juice control ring to turn in either direction without turning everything around it at the same time. And to top it off, my airflow control is stuck and won't move at all. Thankfully it's stuck in the open position, otherwise I'd really be screwed.
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