Good question!Thanks very much GeorgeS!
That is very helpful and you touch upon a point that had me a little bit unsure of... for some reason I didn't think you should dry fire these TC coils? I bought an ohm reader with fire capability, so dry firing off the mod is not problem, just didn't know if this does something to the coil.
...or do I dry fire in TC mode on the mod - to alleviate any issues???
Thanks again
In the beginning we had Ni200 which is known to give off nasties when/if it ever got hot enough to actually glow. Ni200 had to be wound spaced. Since it was spaced there was really no reason to dry fire. If you did fire it you'd want to ensure that any glow was barely visible.
TI-01 was introduced next. If TI is heated hot enough (full red glow) Ti-Oxide (white) will form. While many vapors wrongly felt the oxide was/is like Kryptonite to Superman however the oxide can be avoided by not overheating the coil or rinsing (or brushing off) with water. (the oxide is generally considered not good) Ti-01 needs to be carefully heated to build an insulating layer when contact coils are used. Most use light pulsing of the fire button at low wattage to confirm there is not hot legs and the very light pale glow forms from the inside out.
TC vapors found NiFe and SS (430) variants next. Both of which require to be heated hot enough so that a non-toxic oxide insulating layer is formed for contact coils. While not needed I generally heat my NiFe and SS430 coils to a good glow to ensure no hot legs or hot/cold spots. I know of no health risks of doing this.
As far as wire goes, I'd personally recommend NiFe, Ti and SS430. While the SS316 and SS317 (and others) SS variants can be temperature controlled, their TCR values are less than 100 and can be problematic to accurately regulate.
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