never used any tool to remove the battery cap, it very easy to operate, so no worries there !
Dicodes box mod coming soon.
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Usually just fingers on Dani Box and Dicodes 6, if occasionally stuck, a coin works, or anything really. It's very well designed and a pleasure to use.
Finally I was able to order the Dani Box, and it just came in!
Here it is next to its big brother the No6 and its smaller siblings the Dani Extreme v2+'s
Happy camper over here
I'm turning a little green again..
What topper is that on the box on the far left?
Ah, too bad, I was hoping it was a RTA. Looks good that way though.
But now you've got me curious; what is the best you own..?
Well it does have both a single and dual coil RBA, I now use the sngle coil RBA in it and it's not bad!
The best I own (but it's al subjective) are the Merlin and the Bellus, second place are the Serpent mini, the Bachelor Nano and the Avocado 24.
Best clearomizer I have is the Kabuki.
But I use all my tanks, though it's been a while since I wicked the Goblin Mini v2, but that's more because I find it hardest to get right, and I'm lazy
Well it does have both a single and dual coil RBA, I now use the sngle coil RBA in it and it's not bad!
The best I own (but it's al subjective) are the Merlin and the Bellus, second place are the Serpent mini, the Bachelor Nano and the Avocado 24.
Best clearomizer I have is the Kabuki.
But I use all my tanks, though it's been a while since I wicked the Goblin Mini v2, but that's more because I find it hardest to get right, and I'm lazy
Oh wow, that's a pleasant surprise, I was sure you were just going to say a Kayfun something!
I wouldn't put the Serpent and Bachelor on the same level personally, not by far, very very far...
But perhaps you did a better job wicking the SM than I did, idk. (or a poorer job wicking the Bachelor
)I really like the looks of the Advocado 24 in black but I'm still looking for a mod that's wider than 22mm. I've been focusing on the smaller ones lately which doesn't really help, lol
But I've heard the raving about the Merlin and am curious about that one. It's just so big an ugly, even uglier then my beloved Bachelor imo. I'll get over that at some point though.
Thanks for sharing
The Merlin really is a great tank. The look will grow on you. For something more contemporary/streamlined, the Bellus wins in the looks department, and still performs well.
Well my Dani box arrived today... surpising its tiny, so far so good it's about 5-6mm shorter than the vapershark Rdna40 and the temp control is very smooth compared to the Rdna which ramped way up and then down and then up.. Sometimes the wattage on the Rdna was between 38 and 6, were as the dicode chip slowly and gently changes the wattage from 11 - 12.5 using the included dicodes wire.
After using this all day, I am still very pleased it's a beautifully made mod and the quaility is extremely high, only negative point it ..and this might sound a little weird is it's very hard, this is difficult to explain lol and you expect that from an all metal mod but I guess a lot of them have a rubber style finish, or plastic parts this is just pure metal... Don't get me wrong no sharpe edges etc but it feels hard more than solid if you know what I mean, A case leather or silicone would make it a little more comfortable in use, but it would cover up that beautfuil blue finish on mine too.
After using this all day, I am still very pleased it's a beautifully made mod and the quaility is extremely high, only negative point it ..and this might sound a little weird is it's very hard, this is difficult to explain lol and you expect that from an all metal mod but I guess a lot of them have a rubber style finish, or plastic parts this is just pure metal... Don't get me wrong no sharpe edges etc but it feels hard more than solid if you know what I mean, A case leather or silicone would make it a little more comfortable in use, but it would cover up that beautfuil blue finish on mine too.
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Smooth really is the best word to describe temp control on these mods. Smooth and consistent. I can take a 20 second draw and it feels exactly the same from first second to the last, and every second in between. There is no detectable fluctuations to me. It's damn voodoo magic is what it is.
I picked up the new Crown V2 Tank and was interested in trying to see if it works in TC mode... Using the stainless steel .5 coil tried it on the Dani in TC mode set to steel....no go, doesn't fire temp goes off the chart at 380ish c, changes to NiFe mode, works a charm
The preset for SS (Inox) is for SS304 only I believe. So it depends on what type of SS you used. SS316L should be set to Other with TCR of "90" in the Dani Box for instance. I have no personal experience with that tank.
I did put the Dicodes wire in my RDA/RTAs, and it is performing great with simple spaced coils.
I did put the Dicodes wire in my RDA/RTAs, and it is performing great with simple spaced coils.
Thanks Rabbixx, I thought SS316 was the go to SS wire, didn't know it was SS304 on the dicode, thank you
No problem. I decided to put a single spaced 28/32 ~0.8 SS316 clapton coil in my Avocado 24 to test out TC w/ SS on the Dani Box. Again extremely smooth, noticed no temp fluctuations, and only needed about 17-20watts to maintain 460F vape. It continues to impress me.
It started as just a Dani Box, and quickly escalated from there....
-No6 with Kayfun v5 (6ml tank)
-Dani Box /w Origen Dripper v3
-Dani Extreme V2+ S w/ Hobo v3.1
DE V2+ S with the Kayfun, and Dani Box for comparison
-No6 with Kayfun v5 (6ml tank)
-Dani Box /w Origen Dripper v3
-Dani Extreme V2+ S w/ Hobo v3.1
DE V2+ S with the Kayfun, and Dani Box for comparison
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I don't really get the logo either. Maybe it's a German thing?
I ordered the No. 6 in Titan last week from Creme de Vape, so it should be here soon. Got the Efest green batteries as they were the only 26650 - hope they are good ?
Have only ever built on Kanthal and never used TC! I bought a spool of the dicodes wire, but it sounds like not many on this thread are using it or liking the wire. I will obviously need to research more into good wire to take advantage of the features of this mod that are not present on the Provaris.
It will be my first non-Provari mod
Have only ever built on Kanthal and never used TC! I bought a spool of the dicodes wire, but it sounds like not many on this thread are using it or liking the wire. I will obviously need to research more into good wire to take advantage of the features of this mod that are not present on the Provaris.
It will be my first non-Provari mod
I'm enjoying the Dicodes wire in my Kayfun. Will I keep buying the wire? I doubt it. If there was a US distributor, I might consider it, but the high cost of the wire, and the high cost of shipping adds up to more than I'm willing to spend.
I also have the same battery, but I am still getting used to them. If your at a fairly low wattage I think they are fine. If you were always at 30+ watts, I think my LG HG2's might actually last longer since there is so much sag with the 26650. I'm considering getting a sleeve so I have the option of putting 18650's in the No. 6. At 20watts in TC mode, it does look like the 26650 will last all day (20watts seem more than enough to drive the Dicodes wire).
For wire, I'm considering going back to Titanium as my wire of choice for TC. I really like the fact that it is not an alloy, and after educating myself about the material I no longer have safety concerns.
I also have the same battery, but I am still getting used to them. If your at a fairly low wattage I think they are fine. If you were always at 30+ watts, I think my LG HG2's might actually last longer since there is so much sag with the 26650. I'm considering getting a sleeve so I have the option of putting 18650's in the No. 6. At 20watts in TC mode, it does look like the 26650 will last all day (20watts seem more than enough to drive the Dicodes wire).
For wire, I'm considering going back to Titanium as my wire of choice for TC. I really like the fact that it is not an alloy, and after educating myself about the material I no longer have safety concerns.
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I have most of the major brands of 26650 TC regulated mods. The 26650's are if anything a mixed bag. If given ~20W or less drive duty they hold up all day and then some. Push it much more than 25-30W and serious drooping starts happening.
While we all have heard that resistance does not matter on regulated mods, those of us who use TC and want to squeeze the maximum amount of run time out of our batteries have to juggle some values to reach an optimum load for our mods to regulate.
I stick with low mass 28-32AWG wire. Less mass means less power is needed to heat it up and regulate a temperature. Smaller wire usually means higher resistance.
We need enough resistance or high enough TCR value for our mods to regulate well. Here comes a trade off - more windings equate to more surface area (more efficient vaping) but higher resistance. Higher resistance means that over the drain cycle of the battery the mod might be BOOSTING rather than BUCKING the voltage. Generally boosting is not as efficient as bucking. Possibly effecting run time.
1ohm @ 20W = 4.47V (4.47A)
0.512ohm @ 20W = 3.2V (6.25A)
While the 1/2 ohm build above draws more current, the voltage required to get 20W of output is well within a mod's ability to
'buck' the battery voltage over the entire drain cycle and might actually last longer than the higher resistance (1ohm) build.
I'm starting to wonder if lower resistance builds might actually have more run time.
Thoughts?
While we all have heard that resistance does not matter on regulated mods, those of us who use TC and want to squeeze the maximum amount of run time out of our batteries have to juggle some values to reach an optimum load for our mods to regulate.
I stick with low mass 28-32AWG wire. Less mass means less power is needed to heat it up and regulate a temperature. Smaller wire usually means higher resistance.
We need enough resistance or high enough TCR value for our mods to regulate well. Here comes a trade off - more windings equate to more surface area (more efficient vaping) but higher resistance. Higher resistance means that over the drain cycle of the battery the mod might be BOOSTING rather than BUCKING the voltage. Generally boosting is not as efficient as bucking. Possibly effecting run time.
1ohm @ 20W = 4.47V (4.47A)
0.512ohm @ 20W = 3.2V (6.25A)
While the 1/2 ohm build above draws more current, the voltage required to get 20W of output is well within a mod's ability to
'buck' the battery voltage over the entire drain cycle and might actually last longer than the higher resistance (1ohm) build.
I'm starting to wonder if lower resistance builds might actually have more run time.
Thoughts?
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