Discussing the NicoStick

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mnealtx

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I don't know how that SPDT is wired or if it's normally open or normally closed.

Many folks have used the .5A RS SPST momentary mini switches with varying success. Some of the more experienced modders are now recommending that thses mini switches be used to trigger a MOSFET rather than carry the entire atomizer current themselves.

This might be a better option than the one you posted - a 3A mini SPST momentary switch.
 

BuzzKill

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I did'nt read this whole thread ( 1st 8-9 pages ) but I use wall warts all the time for dc power , I looked up this

a 2amp 5vdc 1% ripple ( ac on top of the dc voltage =.05vac nothing )

I have not measured the current draw from the battery but 2 amps should be close IMO ? ( NEED TO GET THAT # current draw )

Later

271-2571-nd

$15.30 each

from digikey
 

Don'tReadTheRunes

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I just finished my Nicostick, which is my very first mod. Worked the first time, but I did do some stupid stuff.

My first time soldering was a riot, especially onto the positive center of the battery connector. Rest of the soldering was pretty easy for a neophyte like myself. Drilling holes was easy. Ran into problems with superglue, didn't know the stuff was so watery now I got a whole bunch of permanent fingerprints on the battery box and hard patches on my fingers. Oh, and last but not least - I still haven't received my battery charger yet. It's taking its sweet time coming from China. I'll vape the two batteries I have dry till it comes though.

Good deal though. Good instructions. I'm gonna do the RCA thing, and build a wall plug passthrough, and a 5 volt Nico with LED's and for a show stopper, I'm gonna do a passthrough with a battery that charges when plugged in and can be unplugged and portable.
 

nyx

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attempted to put together a 5V box last night, and so far i'm not getting anything out of it. the connections are solid and clean (nothing loose or touching anything it shouldn't), and the switch is the same used by Nico, so I'm assuming the problem must be the way i've wired it. soo, i painted a picture and am hoping someone will tell me why i'm stoopid and how to fix it. ;D

myattempted5vbox.jpg
 

Ez Duzit

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attempted to put together a 5V box last night, and so far i'm not getting anything out of it. the connections are solid and clean (nothing loose or touching anything it shouldn't), and the switch is the same used by Nico, so I'm assuming the problem must be the way i've wired it. soo, i painted a picture and am hoping someone will tell me why i'm stoopid and how to fix it. ;D

myattempted5vbox.jpg
Are the opposite ends of the batteries connected to each other (pos to neg). You show all the connections but that one, so just checking.

Also you need to move a few wires. Put the switch in front of the regulator. ie, the switch goes between the regulator input, and the positive battery output. And the regulator output goes directly to the atty. Otherwise the regulator is always getting power even when the switch is not being pressed.
 

nyx

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thanks for the response, EZ.. yes, the batteries are connected (didn't change much from the way it came--the ends by the on/off switch are single, unconnected contacts, but the ends on the atty/top side are connected by a contact plate that bridges both).

and i think i understand what u mean about putting the switch before the regulator.. like, the positive from the battery should run to one side of the switch and off the other side to the reg? then from the reg to the center pole of the att?
 

nyx

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frick.. rewired again and i'm still not having any luck. my single battery, 3.7V box works perfectly.. i'm apparently screwing something up when i try to incorporate the regulator though--or the dc jack. my 3.7 box uses a regular 901 connector while with this one i tried to use the dc jack (and yes, i tried spreading the center pole). so: any other ideas?
 

nyx

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Do you have a meter?

i do, but it's one with a push-button range adjuster (just shifts the decimal point around) and i've never had much luck with it.. nor can i afford to go buy even the cheap Rat Shack one.

just remembered that pop's got a different one i can use when i'm over there tomorrow.. what kind of reading should i take/expect?
 
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thomas0407

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Nov 12, 2009
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after building my mod. the pushbutton switch (rs part #275-1547) that nicowolf has posted in his mod instructions,. is giving me trouble. i have to press double as hard to get a hit. anyone have this? anyone recommend a better switch (possibly a better brand).
Yes its kinda hard to press button but I like that for my work mod so when I lean againist things it doesnt fire up, but a easy switch it push is a submini pushbutton switch RS 275-1571 and is a lot smaller and can be used in a AAAbatt box mod, great for flashlight mods!
 

Ez Duzit

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i do, but it's one with a push-button range adjuster (just shifts the decimal point around) and i've never had much luck with it.. nor can i afford to go buy even the cheap Rat Shack one.

just remembered that pop's got a different one i can use when i'm over there tomorrow.. what kind of reading should i take/expect?

That meter should be fine for your purpose. You want the 20 volt range. If it's auto ranging, that's fine also. Check the volts from the positive battery cable where it connects to the switch. No need to press the button, it should be about 8.4v with fresh batteries. Then check the voltage on the other side of the switch. You need to press the button this time to get any voltage and it should be about the same. If good voltage there, then just touch the probe to the input of the regulator (with button pressed) to make sure it's connected good. Should be about the same v again. If yes then check the output lead from the regulator with the button pressed. Should be 5 volts. If yes then check the output from the battery connector to make sure that's wired right. If you have power there, you should be able to screw on an atty and vape.

Edit - make sure you don't have the input and output backwards on the regulator.
 

nyx

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kk, will do.. thanks again, Ez, if i can get this thing working the first vape shall be in your honor ;b

ps: just scrolled through your box thread and noticed that your on/off switches are connected differently than mine.. would that be a possible solution? that is, from an atty-side up view, your negative line from the battery connects to the right pin, and your neg line that runs from there to the reg comes off the middle pin of the on/off switch.. whereas all the ones i've gotten from Rat Shack have the battery line connected to the middle and the output coming off the pin on the right
 
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Ez Duzit

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kk, will do.. thanks again, Ez, if i can get this thing working the first vape shall be in your honor ;b

ps: just scrolled through your box thread and noticed that your on/off switches are connected differently than mine.. would that be a possible solution? that is, from an atty-side up view, your negative line from the battery connects to the right pin, and your neg line that runs from there to the reg comes off the middle pin of the on/off switch.. whereas all the ones i've gotten from Rat Shack have the battery line connected to the middle and the output coming off the pin on the right

Shouldn't make a difference as long as it's in the on position. I admit I had a Homer Simpson moment when I couldn't figure out why I was getting no voltage, only to realize the switch was off. Doh.

One thing that I learned early on with the box mods is the positive battery terminal of a Li Ion doesn't stick out nearly as far as on a regular AA battery. So sometimes the battery contacts aren't actually touching the positive terminal which would cause no voltage at all. It's because the battery contacts are held in place by a piece of plastic, and that can keep the battery just far enough away so it doesn't make contact but you can't always tell by looking at it. Now I always carefully grind off that plastic and just hot glue the battery contacts flush against the box. (See the pic)

 
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