Try here: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modders-forum/22267-usb-passthrough-w-charger-mod.html Mogur, the genius, has worked out one solution.
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I've been looking, but no success. I have 3 NicoSticks without on-off switches and carry them around without problem. If I need to stick it in my pants pocket I unscrew the atty.
I made one!
Thank you so much Nicowolf for posting the great instructions. I followed them exactly, except for the addition of a 5mm red LED and 100ohm 1/4w resistor (as suggested by someone else, don't remember who, sorry!), and this thing works perfectly!
I was going to use the Type N connector for the atomiser, but I had a dead 901 battery anyway, so I used the connector from that for this one. I have a dead 510 passthrough that I'll probably use for the next one.
One thing I found useful (and that might help someone else) for getting the holes in the case, was a "grinding point" I got at Home Depot. I don't have a specialized dremel-type tool, just a regular drill, and this thing worked pretty well at getting nice clean round holes for the switch and atomizer. I drilled holes using regular drill bits, up to the largest one I had, and then used this thing, little by little, to get the holes to just the right size.
If anyone wants to try it, the part is a "Vermont American 3/4" x 1 1/8" Grinding Point", and was around $4 I think, at Home Depot. It's made for metal and pretty much just melts the plastic, but the excess can just be trimmed off with a sharp utility knife to get nice clean holes.
Thanks again to Nicowolf and everyone who has posted tips on this site. It is a great resource!
Thank you so much Nicowolf for posting the great instructions. I followed them exactly, except for the addition of a 5mm red LED and 100ohm 1/4w resistor (as suggested by someone else, don't remember who, sorry!), and this thing works perfectly!
I was going to use the Type N connector for the atomiser, but I had a dead 901 battery anyway, so I used the connector from that for this one. I have a dead 510 passthrough that I'll probably use for the next one.
One thing I found useful (and that might help someone else) for getting the holes in the case, was a "grinding point" I got at Home Depot. I don't have a specialized dremel-type tool, just a regular drill, and this thing worked pretty well at getting nice clean round holes for the switch and atomizer. I drilled holes using regular drill bits, up to the largest one I had, and then used this thing, little by little, to get the holes to just the right size.
If anyone wants to try it, the part is a "Vermont American 3/4" x 1 1/8" Grinding Point", and was around $4 I think, at Home Depot. It's made for metal and pretty much just melts the plastic, but the excess can just be trimmed off with a sharp utility knife to get nice clean holes.
Thanks again to Nicowolf and everyone who has posted tips on this site. It is a great resource!
Ok question for people more educated in electricity than I am. I cut off most of the aluminium tube that holds the battery to get to the connector and pulled the black plastic they had behind it out. I soldered the positive wire through the middle without incedent. But, the connector itself is still inside its tubing and it apears to be epoxied in rather permanatly (trying to build with j118 battery connector). Try as I might I can't seem to solder the ground wire to the inside of the connector/aluminium piece it comes out way too easily. My question is, will an epoxied nut on the inside of the case make a suitable ground or is this just a horrible idea? If not what would make a suitable ground to get this thing going? As always any help would be greatly appreciated 
Sorry, but I just cant quite grasp the situation ...
Any chance of a photo?
Can you not solder to the original solder point?
Any chance of a photo?
Can you not solder to the original solder point?
The place where the ground wire was before is covered in what aprears to be white epoxy. I'd go right to the factory wire but it was so tiny it ripped right out taking out the battery from the tube. What I got is about a half inch of aluminum tube with a small amount of what im assuming is brass. The brass only goes up about 1/8th inch of the tube and its threaded to boot (to hold a piece of plastic I had to destroy just to get in there
). Its got a nylon spacer inbetween the two pieces so I first tried to solder the ground right to the tiny bit of brass thats there. But, the combination of small tube , little brass and threads has circumvented my attempts to get a good connection in there. I been at it a couple hours, and I have experience soldering to motherboards. My immediate thought is just take a sizeable piece of metal and solder the ground wire to that then epoxy it into the little black box. Drilling a hole for a small screw and screwing it into the brass then soldering to that also crossed my mind. But, I don't have the tools for it on hand nor do I know anyone who does My question really boils down to if soldering to the atty connector can't be achieved what are my options; won't any old chunk of metal work for this purpose or is my understanding of electricity that bad? (Better safe than sorry I'm a computer nerd not an electrician)
The place where the ground wire was before is covered in what aprears to be white epoxy. I'd go right to the factory wire but it was so tiny it ripped right out taking out the battery from the tube. What I got is about a half inch of aluminum tube with a small amount of what im assuming is brass. The brass only goes up about 1/8th inch of the tube and its threaded to boot (to hold a piece of plastic I had to destroy just to get in there
Something that gives a good tight fit should be ok. After all, battery connectors are just that - tight fit. How about a brass picture-hanging hook - these flat metal things have a bit of spring but can just about be bent into the required shape.
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The place where the ground wire was before is covered in what aprears to be white epoxy. I'd go right to the factory wire but it was so tiny it ripped right out taking out the battery from the tube. What I got is about a half inch of aluminum tube with a small amount of what im assuming is brass. The brass only goes up about 1/8th inch of the tube and its threaded to boot (to hold a piece of plastic I had to destroy just to get in there
If you have a multimeter, test for continuity between the brass part and the aluminum part. If you have continuity, you CAN solder to any old hunk of metal that you can force to constantly touch that aluminum (press fit). If you do not have continuity, you may have to look at cutting away more of that aluminum to expose more of the brass part for soldering. It might also help the soldering process if you clean that brass part, then rough it up a little with steel wool or sandpaper, THEN solder (dried up juice and oxidized brass can make soldering difficult). Experience with motherboards is a huge bonus in this venture, just don't forget that the e-liquid gets everywhere (kinda like tar from analogs in this respect - I'm sure you've had to clean the dustbunnies out of a smoker's computer).
I just got my Nicostick up and running again with better soldering. My question is why do I get more vapor with it than I do with my 801 or 901?
Seminole---One word--the Battery--that 14500 gives superior power as opposed to the 801 and 901 batteries.---------Sun
Seminole, I don't know your batteries but you probably have more vapor because you have higher voltage and more of it (higher mAh) As a consequence, you have less drop throughout the course of the hit. Standard e-cig batteries are lowly little skanks. A 14500 will hold over 4v for a very long time.
You ain't foolin'. I STILL haven't been able to clock how long mine last because I get nervous about it after 12 hours or so (4 times as long as my 901 batts lasted and 6 times as long as my 510 batts) and put them on to charge.
To the manufacturers of e-cig batteries (not modded ones):
and 
Now there's a phrase worth repeating!
And yes, the 14500 is putting out 4.2 volts when it is fully charged, so that's why you are getting a better hit. Nice, isn't it?
You ain't foolin'. I STILL haven't been able to clock how long mine last because I get nervous about it after 12 hours or so (4 times as long as my 901 batts lasted and 6 times as long as my 510 batts) and put them on to charge.
To the manufacturers of e-cig batteries (not modded ones):
I recently made a mod using 18650 batteries. Holy cow, I swap them every 24 hours but they are still putting out ~3.8 volts after a whole day of vaping.
It is a pleasure to charge batteries, not because they won't give you a puff, but just because you remember to do it.
Most of our 801 batteries show 4.25v with a full charge but take the first puff and they fall off a cliff.
Most of our 801 batteries show 4.25v with a full charge but take the first puff and they fall off a cliff.
Yeah, my new manual 510 battery showed 3.85v after just 20 seconds of button pressing. I can't imagine how an older one would fare.
So if I understand you correctly no matter what I have to have the negative in some way touch that little piece of brass? If thats the case I found a little brass screw that lays right into the threads rather nicly. Would jb welding over the top of that then soldering the ground wire to the top of the screw work for a ground? I took a volt meter to it and I don't get continuity to the aluminum
I have a feeling that whatever that white epoxy stuff acts as a barrier. I can't really reccomend the j118 for your mod but stand alone I love it. I just need to figure this out Thanks tons for your help.
I just started vaping a little over a week ago, but you guys have inspired me to build my own Nico-stick... Put it all together tonight... The only thing I'm missing is a DC power jack... It'll be a while before any of my batteries kick it, so if anyone's got a spent 510/901 battery they don't mind parting with, I'll pay shipping and throw in a little extra for your trouble...
I can't wait to try this thing out!
I can't wait to try this thing out!
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