Discussing the NicoStick

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SurvivorMcGyver

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......... Now if I could just get my carts working well...

UD.

I have been using the ADM spring (http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/experiments-equipment/46125-i-call-adp-mod-auto-drip-mod.html) method for months and it has been fantastic on my HV mods 5V all the way to 8V's (with a HV atty of course:cool:) Perfect feed and performance 13-14 drops per cart refill (guess this should be moved to another forum -- but what the heck -- the guy needs help..........)
 
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ZoSo15

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Dec 7, 2009
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Just wanted to say thanks to Nicowolf and everyone here.

I made my first Nicostick a few days ago and it has completely eliminated my battery hassles. This things still going strong after a few days and is still putting out over 3.7V.

I actually tried to make a 5V one at first but soon found out that I didn't have the experience for that much wiring and soldering. The 3.7V one goes through a heck of a lot less juice anyway so that's good. And the 14500 battery gives way better hits than a regular e-cig batt. I'm sure I'll take a wack at the 5V one once I get some more batteries, but for now this Nicostick and my 5V PT have me very satisfied.

Thanks again.
 

Triumph

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Jan 18, 2010
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WOW, I`m pretty new to Vaping, and have just been browsing some Mods, gotta say I LOVE the Nicostick idea, gonna have to build myself one soon.

Anyone know what the best thing to use for a connector to hook up my RN4072 into it? I`ve read about 1/4" phone jack, and that it may be problematic for that atty? any ideas anyone? or anyone in the UK sell the connectors?
Thanks in advance
 

UberDuper

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Dec 18, 2009
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This question is about the old NicoStick... What atomizer did you use on it. The only issue I have understanding is how to connect the atomizer wiring. The old one uses the I think the M coaxial dc connector and the new one has to be fabricated from a 510 battery. Is that correct? and Why is that???

There's a few places you can buy the battery connector so you don't have to sacrifice a battery. There was someone selling them on the board. He's got a sticky here somewhere but he may have stopped. I got mine from madvapes along with the rest of the parts I needed.
I just reread your post. I know nothing about the original coaxial connector. Sorry.

UD.
 

dgreen

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Nov 4, 2009
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Ok - I think I have figured out everything I need to do except one thing.

When making the connector for the Atomizer do i have to put the tiny rubber grommet back on the little center piece on the 510 battery connector so that when the button is pressed the - & + aren't each touching metal or is that the whole point of it.

Thanks
 

magus7091

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Oct 14, 2009
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You shouldn't have to, it sits secure enough that unless you pull/push on the center connecter it shouldn't come out. If the center post isn't wanting to sit secure you could also use some heat shrink tube to replace the grommet (grommet might be worn). If you do this, push the tubing up to where only the top of the center post is showing then shrink it and push it down in.
 

magus7091

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Oct 14, 2009
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Yea, the first time I went to make one, I destroyed my battery boxes and messed the whole project up. It took 4 battery boxes but I finally got a .... ugly nicostick working. My current one still has one or two things that I don't like, but it came out much better. Don't worry about it, you'll get it. I'm going to be making my 3rd soon. :D Adding an LED.
 

magus7091

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Oct 14, 2009
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OK, so a while back I set up a diagram of how I wanted to wire in an LED, assuming a killswitch on the positive lead. The battery boxes I have put the killswitch on the ground instead, so for some reason it's confused the crud out of me since... :confused: I have tried to diagram this again, but can't come up with how, so instead, here's a design. Will this work?
 

MDGiest72

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Feb 7, 2010
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Battery Junction sells a protection circuit as well as protected batteries they also have the protection circuit for multiple voltages. If you solder the protection circuit in either before or after the momentary switch could use unprotected batteries. Then wouldnt have to mail order protected batts all the time lol.
 

debook

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Trying to think of a way to add an additional low voltage detection circuit within the space constraints of the stick. This would increase battery life and provide a better way of protecting against over-discharge of the batteries, even protected ones.

Could we get PIC's programmed to detect low voltage and turn the stick off for safety? Would fit on the PCB in the 2xAA and maybe the 3xAAA box.

Another idea I just had after looking at the datasheet for the 5v reg would be to put a MOSFET or analog switch in series with your 5V Regulator and power the Gate of the FET or the enable line of the analog switch with one of your batteries. Select a device that has a VGSth/Enable voltage of 2.7VDC…or use a resistor divider that’ll follow your 5.4V rail down until it disables the device at ~2.7V…you could use high ohmic values to reduce your current leak to a few microamps probably. Might be able to use a SPDT type switch or something and throw the rail to a 2nd LED when power is removed?
 
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mogur

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Apr 24, 2009
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Nico, nice. I just ordered a few boxes from comfortable electronics (Jameco). A few 2xAA w/switch/cover. 3xAA w/switch/cover. 4xAA w/switch/cover. 2xAAA w/switch/cover. 3xAAA w/switch/cover. Guess you might think I like the switch. Yes, I put a high output white led in there, too, so that I can have a little light when I hit the switch. Makes carrying the box a little less obnoxious, since I can use it as an imitation of a flashlight.
 
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