Dream PV's
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You like cold coffee
Sorry for your loss BTW
No.. I really don't.
But.. and here is some science that defies my degrees..... coffee gets cold and beer gets warm.
The miseries of life.
Scott...The first one you showed...Man the sweetest idea I have seen yet...It would be perfect for those like me that HATE to keep taking that cart off to refill..I would love that because I would be able to refill in a beat...Just one of the greatest ideas yet...keep up the good work & make it HAPPEN!!!!!
Well I'll be!!! Me to!!!Meet Skaryfast.... 60kph on a pushbike is enough to make a man out of you!!!
Off topic, but 60kph (37mph) is nuttin', I can hit 50mph on my leg powered roadbike no problem (albeit downhill). but still, i've never seen the point of these motorized bicycles, if you want exercise, ride a bike, if you want to go scary fast without exercise, get a motorcycle
The point is simple. When you loose your license for drink driving and don't want to raise a sweat this is a great way of getting around without getting in more trouble!! These things don't require a license and you are mobile again. btw 50mph on a road bike is one thing, on that thing 40 is all you would want to be doing!!..... particularly when it comes time to stop in a hurry!!
license back, YAY!!....... bike in shed untouched for years now......
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Anyone mind filling me in on PWM? Oh, and also FLIR?
"You only want to wear the minimum amount of FLIR?"
OK, I think this will be my last installment for a little while.. although I have other "projects" underway.
As I "teased" in a previous post... you can't have a "Super TorneGo I" unless you have a "Super TorneGo II".. right? So here it is.
One of my longstanding gripes about the standard PV design is that we have to unscrew the batteries and "replace" them every time they run out of charge. I think that is kinda silly. I don't have to do that with my electric toothbrush (inductively charged), I don't have to do that with my cell phone (plug-in), and I don't have to do that with my home cordless phones (charging base).
The Bartleby somewhat addresses that.. you can plug it into the USB cable and use it as a pass-thru while it is charging the battery. Kinda cool, but I find the cable to be a minor hassle. What I really want is a charging base. Sooooo....
The first step is to make a battery that can work with a charging base. I had the basics done for an inductive charging system, but I decided to "dumb it down" a bit and go with open contacts. So this is what a TorneGo II battery looks like with open contacts on the blunt end:
You can see that I poked through the end cap, installed an insulator, and then made a center contact that is wired (with a protection diode) to the positive side of the battery. While I was in there.. I modified the stock Joye circuit that limits the effective voltage to the atty. This eGo/Tornado battery is a TRUE 3.7V BATTERY! And yes, that makes a difference!
Now I needed a charging base. I hogged this quick version out of Delrin, installed the pogo-contacts from a universal USB (Kanger) charger and then wired it to some external electronics for charging. Ultimately I will integrate the electronics into the base and put a LED indicator in/on it.
And this is what it looks like when you slide the Super TorneGo II into the base:
Ideally I will have one of these bases at my desk at work, at my desk here at the house, and probably on the console of my car. In-between vapes, instead of just laying the PV on my desk, it drop it into the charger where the battery gets "topped off". Based on my experience with the Bart and this unit, I know that if I vape for 15-20 seconds and then put it in the charging base, it will be fully "recovered" to full charge in about a minute. That works out perfectly.. even if you are a heavy chain-vaporer.
Yes, I can make a clip-on sleeve that connects the battery to a cable like a pass-thru... but why bother?
When I want to get up and move around, I take it out of the base and drop it in my pocket. I know I'm good for a couple of hours (at least) with the existing charge.
During a "hard night out" of heavy vaporizing, I can still swap out the battery with a charged one. But under normal circumstances..... I never have to unscrew the battery. Only when it ultimately dies and fails to take a charge.
The next obvious step is a PCC-style pocket sleeve. But unlike a traditional PCC, this one will be a simple "pack" with a hole in the top. I'll keep it in my shirt pocket (like I used to carry my analog pack).... and when I slide/drop the Super TorneGo II into the hole in the top, it will make contact inside (like the charging base) and refresh the battery on-the-fly. Grab the TorneGo by the mouthpiece, pull/slide it out of the PCC, and vape. Once I have this done, I will unscrew the battery from my PV about as often as I remove the battery from my cell phone. Which is just about never.
Enjoy!
I love all your mods, Scottbee, but this is the one that brought me to this thread. E-cig.com once tried selling a PCC using that same kind of contact in the tip, so you just dropped it in the slot. But of course, it was from e-cig.com, so it didn't work worth crap. And they made it a different model entirely fom anything else they carried. It was actually the first PCC on the market, lousy as it was, but it dissapeared really quick.
More recently, I looked at another similar unit, but they made it into a big box shaped desk top device, with a big PCC type battery on one side, and a storage compartment on the other. The PCC battery seemed unnecessary for something that would sit on a desk all the time anyway. And they gave it a goofy golf club shaped thing for the slot you dropped the e-cig into. And like the e-cig.com one, they made it a totally different model from anything else on the market.
So I passed on it, for now.
If they made it like yours, just the charging stand and nothing else, and compatible with an existing model, I would SOOOO buy it.
I don't know what you're doing now, but if you want, you could have a very successful career ahead of you as an underpaid and overworked e-cig engineer in China!
I got the connections, I can get you IN! 
Hey Scott!! Thanks for all the great pics and info! I'm working on one and am starting to gather parts and... I was thinking of a pump delivery system.... your collar system seems so much simpler... how's it working out?
Heya Leaford! Good to see you drop in on this thread. I have long admired your work and efforts in the PV field.
Regarding PWM (and trying to not get too wordy):
There are a few different methods that folks often employ for reducing or regulating the power delivered to the heating coils in atomizers and cartomizers.
The simplest is probably the series dropping resistor. But it is wildly inefficient, and while it will/can reduce the power delivered to the coil... it doesn't actually regulate the power and delivered power will vary with battery voltage and coil resistance.
Linear regulators (LM780X, LM 317, etc.) can both reduce and regulate the delivered power... but they are also inefficient, generating a fair amount of heat. In essence, they take the power from the battery... deliver some to the coil.. and convert the rest to heat. Wasteful.
High frequency switching regulators both reduce and regulate the delivered power... and they are usually pretty dern efficient. I consider them to be an excellent choice, but it is often tough to get them in a small form factor that can handle the currents that we need in this market.
PWM: PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) doesn't really "reduce" or "regulate" the voltage as delivered from the battery. Instead, it delivers the voltage (and therefore power) in pulses... switching from fully on, to fully off. This is usually done very quickly (high frequency) so that the actual switching is not discernible. The duty cycle of the pulses ("on time" vs. "on + off time") becomes the controlling factor. 100% duty cycle would have the output "on" all of the time at full battery voltage. 50% duty cycle would have the output "on" for some short duration, and then "off" for the same duration. The "effective" voltage would be the RMS voltage of the waveform, and the delivered power correlates directly to the RMS voltage. Example: on most Joye battery systems the RMS voltage is about 3.1V.
If you look here: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/joye-510/65055-battery-voltages-surprise.html you can find some more information on the "PWM" including some waveforms coming off of my oscilloscope.
As an aside... most modern light dimmers (AC) don't use voltage regulation either.. they use a form of PWM.. "chopping" the AC voltage waveform that is sent to the bulb, reducing the delivered power and causing it to "dim". On some of them you can even hear the bulb "buzz" as a function of the harmonics generated by the chopping frequency.
The simplest is probably the series dropping resistor. But it is wildly inefficient, and while it will/can reduce the power delivered to the coil... it doesn't actually regulate the power and delivered power will vary with battery voltage and coil resistance.
Linear regulators (LM780X, LM 317, etc.) can both reduce and regulate the delivered power... but they are also inefficient, generating a fair amount of heat. In essence, they take the power from the battery... deliver some to the coil.. and convert the rest to heat. Wasteful.
High frequency switching regulators both reduce and regulate the delivered power... and they are usually pretty dern efficient. I consider them to be an excellent choice, but it is often tough to get them in a small form factor that can handle the currents that we need in this market.
PWM: PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) doesn't really "reduce" or "regulate" the voltage as delivered from the battery. Instead, it delivers the voltage (and therefore power) in pulses... switching from fully on, to fully off. This is usually done very quickly (high frequency) so that the actual switching is not discernible. The duty cycle of the pulses ("on time" vs. "on + off time") becomes the controlling factor. 100% duty cycle would have the output "on" all of the time at full battery voltage. 50% duty cycle would have the output "on" for some short duration, and then "off" for the same duration. The "effective" voltage would be the RMS voltage of the waveform, and the delivered power correlates directly to the RMS voltage. Example: on most Joye battery systems the RMS voltage is about 3.1V.
If you look here: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/joye-510/65055-battery-voltages-surprise.html you can find some more information on the "PWM" including some waveforms coming off of my oscilloscope.
As an aside... most modern light dimmers (AC) don't use voltage regulation either.. they use a form of PWM.. "chopping" the AC voltage waveform that is sent to the bulb, reducing the delivered power and causing it to "dim". On some of them you can even hear the bulb "buzz" as a function of the harmonics generated by the chopping frequency.
FLIR: Forward Looking Infrared. It's tres-kewl.
Well.. for about 8 months now it's all I use. Each day, every day. And I'm a pretty heavy "vaporer".
I settled-in with the Super TorneGo I and II (preferring that form factor over the Bart). About mid-year I started dabbling in LR atomizers, and ultimately found one that worked well with my bottom-feeder, and gave decent longevity. After that I was pretty much "done" with the development.... and now I just use it.
Obviously it's not the ideal PV if you like to change flavors often.... but if you are one of those "this is my daily vape" kinda guys... I think it is the bomb.
Note that some of the "modders" on this forum have been doing some recent work with "Pill Fob Reservoir" bottom feed systems that incorporate some of the concepts that are in the Super TorneGo and Super Bart..... They've done some very nice work and have generated some excellent pictorial tutorials.
You can drip similar flavors too for a change, it doesn't have to be an all day thang 
Heya Leaford! Good to see you drop in on this thread. I have long admired your work and efforts in the PV field.
Regarding PWM (and trying to not get too wordy):
There are a few different methods that folks often employ for reducing or regulating the power delivered to the heating coils in atomizers and cartomizers.
The simplest is probably the series dropping resistor. But it is wildly inefficient, and while it will/can reduce the power delivered to the coil... it doesn't actually regulate the power and delivered power will vary with battery voltage and coil resistance.
Linear regulators (LM780X, LM 317, etc.) can both reduce and regulate the delivered power... but they are also inefficient, generating a fair amount of heat. In essence, they take the power from the battery... deliver some to the coil.. and convert the rest to heat. Wasteful.
High frequency switching regulators both reduce and regulate the delivered power... and they are usually pretty dern efficient. I consider them to be an excellent choice, but it is often tough to get them in a small form factor that can handle the currents that we need in this market.
PWM: PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) doesn't really "reduce" or "regulate" the voltage as delivered from the battery. Instead, it delivers the voltage (and therefore power) in pulses... switching from fully on, to fully off. This is usually done very quickly (high frequency) so that the actual switching is not discernible. The duty cycle of the pulses ("on time" vs. "on + off time") becomes the controlling factor. 100% duty cycle would have the output "on" all of the time at full battery voltage. 50% duty cycle would have the output "on" for some short duration, and then "off" for the same duration. The "effective" voltage would be the RMS voltage of the waveform, and the delivered power correlates directly to the RMS voltage. Example: on most Joye battery systems the RMS voltage is about 3.1V.
If you look here: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/joye-510/65055-battery-voltages-surprise.html you can find some more information on the "PWM" including some waveforms coming off of my oscilloscope.
As an aside... most modern light dimmers (AC) don't use voltage regulation either.. they use a form of PWM.. "chopping" the AC voltage waveform that is sent to the bulb, reducing the delivered power and causing it to "dim". On some of them you can even hear the bulb "buzz" as a function of the harmonics generated by the chopping frequency.
FLIR: Forward Looking Infrared. It's tres-kewl.
Thanks for that, Scott! As a non-engineer working to push engineers to improve their designs, every bit of knowledge is valuable!
Gummy:
That's a cool one, I just don't think I could carry enough juice to vape it very long...
The 1, 3, and 5 hour juice bottle sizes...
heh...
Although, I was just thinking about a similar concept, when someone asked me why I didn't make a 'Ghostbuster' style mod (complete with 'working' 'photon beam' laser)....
So, it's on my long list of 'maybe, eventually, if I get around to it while it still sounds cool' mods...
That's a cool one, I just don't think I could carry enough juice to vape it very long...
The 1, 3, and 5 hour juice bottle sizes...
heh...
Although, I was just thinking about a similar concept, when someone asked me why I didn't make a 'Ghostbuster' style mod (complete with 'working' 'photon beam' laser)....
So, it's on my long list of 'maybe, eventually, if I get around to it while it still sounds cool' mods...
boB,
Well at least you saw the humor in this proto-type. I may be close to this with the box mod I'm working on now. I have the case finished, just waiting on the VV chip to come in. (monday I hope). Then I'll post the pics here. It's based on the VV mod over here
Edit:
It's done, go tell me what ya think. good or bad.
It was moved to Here
Well at least you saw the humor in this proto-type. I may be close to this with the box mod I'm working on now. I have the case finished, just waiting on the VV chip to come in. (monday I hope). Then I'll post the pics here. It's based on the VV mod over here
Edit:
It's done, go tell me what ya think. good or bad.
It was moved to Here
Last edited:
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