E2 Cartomizer Technical Discussion
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It just occured to me that they might not be sourcing their nichrome from Solingen...so resistances may vary
. I think we can safely say it's going to get 3x to 4x hotter than your standard, non-jet, butane lighter. resistance/voltage/length, gauge/amps, or color chart all end up in the same ball park (see, that was fun
)
One thing to remember is that NiChrome is a just a generic name for a family of Nickel / Chromium Major alloyed metals. Resistence is going to vary do to length of the wire, diameter and the other alloys in the NiChrome. Especially the percentage of Iron.
Also, Solingen is just a location and not a actual type of Alloy.
copy and past form my last question in the other thread.
but the whole point of even being worried about how hot the coil becomes is because to see what effects it has on the wick right??
and with the wick in direct contact with the glowing coil for a long period of time should prove that as hot as the coil can get, the wick can handle it
im asking if thats the case and if that solves our wicking question of wether it burns or not
If there is any effect on vg or pg at such high temps , well thats a seperate issue that doesnt only affect the e2, that should apply to many types atomizers and cartos at high temps.
so while i agree that is also important its not something the E2 should be judged by.
We found the wicking issue was caused by a tight coil which gave a dry taste, that seems fixed in most recent revisions.
Now my main concern is the glue and the ceramic cup, remove the glue and use a ceramic cup and you get as close to a new style atomizer as you can.
Here are the issues the initial E2's had.
1. Tight coil wrapped on wick.
2. Slits, channels where wick sits in on either end of the coil was where not wide enough.
3. the cup was plastic, and while there doesnt seem to be any deforming issues even under heavy use it still needed glue to for 2 reasons, to hold the cup to the inner cap since the slits weakened the cup, and to hold the cup in place on the tube below it. Navathian fealt using ceramics would also be safer then plastic in the long run and just improve the whole e2.
4. The connector had some issues, some didnt have the center post petruding enough so it doesnt make contact with the post in your battery or mod in some cases. In other cases the threads where a issue and you couldnt screw the e2 all the way to make contact.
Now these problems seem to be varied depending on which revision we got, some had all these issues, some only had some of these issues and some had none.
After communicating back and fourth with microtech, they have tested the newest version with ceramics.
They are now called for all intents and purposes by them, C-E2 V3.
They have assured me on many occasions(for all its worth) that all the issues above and more have been Addressed. Now we wait.
________________
but the whole point of even being worried about how hot the coil becomes is because to see what effects it has on the wick right??
and with the wick in direct contact with the glowing coil for a long period of time should prove that as hot as the coil can get, the wick can handle it
im asking if thats the case and if that solves our wicking question of wether it burns or not
If there is any effect on vg or pg at such high temps , well thats a seperate issue that doesnt only affect the e2, that should apply to many types atomizers and cartos at high temps.
so while i agree that is also important its not something the E2 should be judged by.
We found the wicking issue was caused by a tight coil which gave a dry taste, that seems fixed in most recent revisions.
Now my main concern is the glue and the ceramic cup, remove the glue and use a ceramic cup and you get as close to a new style atomizer as you can.
Here are the issues the initial E2's had.
1. Tight coil wrapped on wick.
2. Slits, channels where wick sits in on either end of the coil was where not wide enough.
3. the cup was plastic, and while there doesnt seem to be any deforming issues even under heavy use it still needed glue to for 2 reasons, to hold the cup to the inner cap since the slits weakened the cup, and to hold the cup in place on the tube below it. Navathian fealt using ceramics would also be safer then plastic in the long run and just improve the whole e2.
4. The connector had some issues, some didnt have the center post petruding enough so it doesnt make contact with the post in your battery or mod in some cases. In other cases the threads where a issue and you couldnt screw the e2 all the way to make contact.
Now these problems seem to be varied depending on which revision we got, some had all these issues, some only had some of these issues and some had none.
After communicating back and fourth with microtech, they have tested the newest version with ceramics.
They are now called for all intents and purposes by them, C-E2 V3.
They have assured me on many occasions(for all its worth) that all the issues above and more have been Addressed. Now we wait.
________________
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So if it is not the wick that is burning, what makes the carto develope a bad taste?
Depends on which bad taste you're talking about. Some complained of a "nail polish" taste and smell that was attributed to the glue they used on some of the cartos (which supposedly they've now stopped using). Others complained about a "burnt" taste that could probably be attributed to the juice gunk that builds up on the coil. I haven't had any taste or smell issues on any of mine (except the ones that badly needed cleaning after multiple refills).
I think whats happening is one of these things.
either your coil is wrapped to tight nd that could be the case on nay revision we have at this point, as you vape the coil tightens and packs together causing a dry taste to happen after 7 to 10 drags depending on what voltage your vaping.
So we had them loosen the coil on the wick even further in the newest revision.
Then there where some made with a nasty smelling glue, like nail polish or turpentine. On some the glue is on the cup when it spilled onto it when they glued the inner cap on, it also is on the main stem the cup sits on to hold the cup in place and its on the wires to hold the wires to the cup.
this appears to be the case on some and not all, some have this glue , some dont and some have a newer glue which doesnt have this issue.
Now if oyu have one with the BAD GLUE, then as you vape it heats the glue and slowly melts it and then giving off a bad taste and smell, then you keep vaping and the wires which get hot start to melt the glue into the juice and causing the bad taste. You can dry burn for a while then soak in boiling water to clean anything out.
Lastly some juices like dark ones or with sugars in them gunk up..
It would seem that the "nail polish" does come from the glue. And that would be something that the manufacture can resolve.
The "burnt" taste is the one that interest me. Why do some people get it and some don't?
It would seem that what is different between people is the juice. So if it is a type of juice that causes it. What type?
If came out that perhaps a certain coloring or maybe a chemical in the flavor / sweetener was the cause, then couldn't people use juices that didn't have this coloring or chemical and be "burnt taste" free for these E2 cartos.
And probably atty's to.
if its the dry taste only, then like i said its either the juice itself or its the coil being to tight and then during vaping it packs together and tightens further.
you can use something sharp to separate the coil after a dry burn., also lift your wick in the slits a tad if you can.
you can use something sharp to separate the coil after a dry burn., also lift your wick in the slits a tad if you can.
Since we’re talking about it over at Notcigs http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/notcigs/104293-vvpv-design-talk-10.html I want to point out how much these E2 seem to be like the work Vaporer did in http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/atomizer-mods/48436-new-atomizer-coil-shape.html I’ll write more about that when I get my E2’s and have more to offer so I don’t sound like all I am is a Buzz or Vaporer fanboy. But since that’s what I am now, if all of you were testing these E2’s on a Buzz there wouldn’t be an issue with the coil resistance, you could adjust the voltage to whatever you need. OK won’t come back again with just being a fanboy, back to just watching and thankyou all here.
I don't have an issue with coil resistance. The 2.5 ohm resistance of the E-2 works real well at 3 volts. A few of us have tried them at an even lower voltage with good results. Will the Buzz allow us to vape at these voltages? If it does, then I want one.
no that's a problem the buzz only goes down to about 3.4 volts, too high for some testing the E2's
the new tekkeon by nhaler goes from 1.5 to 5.8 volts and uses two 18650 3.7 batteries, thats a beast and does the whole range of volts.
Those pics from Vaporer 11/11/09 do favor the CE2 design quite a bit. I find these very enjoyable on the Little Sister variable and maybe once badkolo has his Buzz he can talk about how much he likes it with the new cartos. If I read correctly, the lowest voltage possible with the Buzz is 3.6v(?). I wish somebody else with a LS and these cartos would chime in here because I'm starting to sound like a broken record. I'm using my LS with these at well below 3.7v and find it much more enjoyable at the lower power setting. It probably wouldn't satisfy a 5v user, but to me it's much closer to the sensation of a standard 510 carto with a 3.7v box mod.
Edit: Sorry was typing while all you guys were posting so I stand corrected on the Buzz voltage.
I was looking at the buzz but it doesnt go low enough, so im gonna get the tekkeon.
The Multi-Voltage Dial-A-Tekk Mod
that does all the ranges and lasts for days
The Multi-Voltage Dial-A-Tekk Mod
that does all the ranges and lasts for days
While we're discussing "technical" issues with these, is anyone else losing end caps? A lot of mine are a little on the loose side and I've lost two carrying my PV in a belt pouch. I must be rubbing up against the car seat or something and knocking them out.
Wow that is a beautiful mod, but it looks a little big for me to carry around all day.
Compared to that thing my LS looks like the "cricket" pistol from Men In Black.
Wow that is a beautiful mod, but it looks a little big for me to carry around all day.
Compared to that thing my LS looks like the "cricket" pistol from Men In Black.
only 3.3 x 2.1 x 1.1 inches, thats not to bad. even though the ls must look invisible next to it.
Yeah the LS is only something like 3x1x.5 inches, and looks a lot like a bic lighter. I have to admit though, those little 10440's last longer than I thought they would...
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